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EICHARD    WILLIAMS 


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MEMOIR 


OF 


RICHARD  WILLIAMS, 

SURGEON : 

OATECHIST  TO  IHE  PATAGOXIAX  JHSSIOXARY  SOCIETY 
IN  TEEEA  DEL  FUEGO. 


BY 

JAMES    HAMILTON,   D.D. 

ACTHOR   or    "life   IS   EARNEST."      "tHE  MOCNT  OF  OLIVES."      " 
ON    THE   WILLOWS."      "THANKFULNESS."      "LIFE    OF   LADY 
COLQUBOUN."     "royal  PREACHER."     "tHE  LAMP 
AND   THE    LANTERN,"   ETC. 


NEW   YORK: 
EGBERT   CARTER    &   BROTHERS, 

N  o.  2  8  5  B  R  O  A  D  W  A  Y. 
185-^. 


'v-/ 


PEEFACE. 


Had  the  engagements  of  the  Rev.  WilHam 
Arthur  allo^yed.  him  to  undertake  the  compila- 
tion of  the  following  Memoii',  the  public  would 
have  received  from  his  hand  a  missionary 
biography  as  instructive,  if  not  as  excitiiig, 
as  The  Successful  Merchant.  But  when  Mr 
Arthur  felt  constrained  to  decline  the  task,  the 
present  Editor  ventured  to  attempt  it,  in  tlie 
belief  that,  under  the  most  ordinary  treatment, 
the  materials  placed  at  his  disposal  could 
scarcely  fail  to  be  useful. 

The  circumstance  that  Mr  Williams  belonoed 
to  a  branch  of  the  evangelical  church  entirely 
distmct  from  his  biographer's  denomination, 
has  not  been  felt  as  any  emoarrassment  in  the 
progress  of  the  work.     A  man  does  not  repu- 


VI  PREFACE. 

diate  his  birthplace  when  he  receives  the 
"  freedom "  of  other  cities ;  and  the  second 
home  which  the  Anthor  has  found  in  manv  a 
Christian  community,  has  not  lessened  his 
affection  to  his  own  Mount  Zion.  On  the 
other  hand,  literary  trusteeship  is  surely  con- 
sistent with  ecclesiastical  integrity ;  and  that 
writer  must  be  very  distrustful  of  his  own 
sense,  or  his  own  honesty,  who  is  afraid  that 
the  one  will  interfere  with  the  other. 

For  ample  details  regarding  the  Patagonian 
Mission,  and  for  an  account  of  Captain  Gar- 
diner and  other  ipembers  of  the  expedition, 
the  reader  is  referred  to  Hoj^e  Deferred,  not 
Lost;  a  Narrative  of  Missionary  Effort  in 
South  America,  by  the  Rev.  George  Paken- 
ham  Despard,  Honorary  Secretary  of  the  Pata- 
gonian Missionary  Society.  To  Mr  Despard 
the  best  thanks  of  the  Editor  are  due,  for 
repeated  and  kind  communications  during  the 
preparation  of  the  following  pages. 


CONTENTS. 


PAOR 

CHAPTER  I. 

EARLY  DAYS 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS ^ 

CHAPTER  III. 

CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS         .  •  •  31 


CHAPTER  IV. 
49 

CHAPTER  V. 


THE  MISSION 


THE  VOYAGE  .  ~ ^^ 

CHAPTER  VI. 

90 
FUEGIA 


VUl  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

FIRST  TOILS ,        121 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

NEW  TRIALS 153 

CHAPTER  IX. 

SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE 199 

CHAPTER  X. 

COXCLUSION 2*7 


CHAPTER  I. 


Eemember  not  the  faults 

Aud  frailty  of  my  youth  : 
Ilemeiiiher  not  how  ignorant 
I  liave  been  of  thy  truth. 

Nor  after  my  deserts 
Let  me  thy  mercy  find  : 
But  of  thine  own  benignity, 
Lord,  have  me  in  thy  mind. 

Psalm  XXV.  6. — Sternhold. 


The  Sabbath  was  too  often  spent  in  the  study  of  Virgil  and 
Horace.  But  the  later  hours  of  his  evenings,  which  were  not  dedi- 
cated to  amusement,  seem  to  have  been  laudably  employed  in  storing 
his  mind  with  classical  aud  general  knowledge. — Memoirs  of  Dr 
Claudius  Buclianan. 


KicHARD  Williams  was  the  second  son  of  Mr  Rice 
Williams,  of  Dursley,  Gloucestershire,  and  was 
born  there  on  the  15tli  of  May  1815. 

From  the  first  he  evinced  great  tenderness  of 
feeling ;  and  very  early,  he  exhibited  that  ardent 
and  affectionate  disposition  which  distinguished 
liim  through  life.  But  as  he  grew  from  infancy 
to  boyhood,  there  were  frequent  outbreaks  of  a 
passionate  temper,  and  his  strong  determination 
n  mounted  to  obstinacy.  He  gave  no  indication  of 
piety  ;  but  in  the  transparency  and  truthfulness 
of  his  character  might  be  perceived  the  germ  of 
future  excellence.  For  if  little  can  be  hoped  from 
a  childhood  where  deceit  is  the  constitutional  sin, 
it  is  seldom  that  the  boy  attains  to  nothing  noble, 
who,  like  Washington,  "  cannot  tell  a  he." 

Richard's  first  school  was  in  Yorkshire ;  but  he 
was  soon  brought  bac]c  to  Dursley,  and  placed 
under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  John  Glanville,  now  the 
much-esteemed  minister  of  Kingsland  Tabernacle, 


4  EARLY   DAYS. 

near  Bristol.  Mr  Glanvillo  says,  "  I  watched  liim 
closely,  inasmuch  as  I  thought  I  saw  something  in 
him  which  seemed  to  distinguish  him  from  the  mass 
of  common  boyhood.  This  induced  me  to  give 
special  attention  to  him,  and,  as  far  as  I  was  able, 
to  bring  out  and  direct  his  powers.  There  was  a 
character  about  him,   even  then,  which  indicated 

good  in  the  future He  had  mind, — not  very 

well  balanced,  nor  always  easily  controlled,  but 
inquiring,  earnest,  persevering,  and  determined  to 
improve.  He  was  diligent  and  painstaking  in 
whatever  engaged  his  attention  or  suited  his  tastes. 
His  quickness  and  thoughtfulness  shewed  that  he 
had  abilities,  which  only  required  to  be  guided  into 
a  proper  channel,  to  make  him  a  useful  man.  Ho 
was  intended  and  educated  for  secular  employ,  and 
he  had  an  encouraging  prospect  before  him,  and 
many  facilities  for  obtaining  worldly  prosperity. 
But  he  soon  manifested  a  distaste  for  business ;  it 
was  too  monotonous  and  mechanical ;  he  wanted 
somethino;  more  exciting  and  intellectual.  I  was 
called  upon  to  use  my  influence  with  him  for  the 
purpose  of  urging  him  to  throw  his  energies  more 
fully  into  the  duties  of  his  trade.  This  1  did,  both 
by  writing  and  speaking ;  but  it  was  of  no  use :  he 
would  be  a  doctor,  and  not  a  plane-manufacturer. 
All  the  money  he  could  procure,  and  all  the  hours 
he  could  spare,  were  given  to  studies  bearing  on 
the  medical  profession.  At  length,  he  resolved  to 
leave  business,  and  sacrifice  the  solid  gain  for  what 


EARLY  DAYS. 


appeared  to  his  friends  the  doubtful  success  of  a 
professional  course ;  and,  in  directing  his  attention 
to  surgery,  he  had  to  encounter  many  difficulties, 
and  to  work  against  all  sorts  of  disadvantage." 

We  have  alwavs  regarded  it  as  the  heroic  inci- 
dent  in  the  history  of  the  lamented  Dr  Hope,  of 
London,  that,  with  a  strong  repugnance  to  medical 
studies,  but  in  deference  to  a  father's  wishes,  ho 
not  only  selected  medicine  as  his  pursuit,  but  prose- 
cuted it  so  vigorously  as  to  distance  all  his  coevals. 
Gladly  would  we  have  recorded  the  converse 
achievement  in  the  outset  of  our  own  hero's  career: 
for  we  know  not  any  finer  feature  of  character  than 
jin  intense  dutifulness,  nor  any  sublimer  incident 
than  the  self-sacrifice  to  which  dutiful  feeling  has 
])rompted.  At  such  noble  acts  of  self-conquest  we 
shall  not  arrive  till  somewliat  later  in  this  narra- 
tive ;  and  meanwhile  we  must  describe  the  subject 
of  our  biography  as  he  was,  and  which  is  much  the 
same  as  other  ardent  and  impulsive  young  men 
have  been. 

An  uncle  in  Westminster-  had  acquired  a  reputa- 
tion in  making  carpenters'  planes,  and  his  thriving 
business  he  bequeathed  to  his  nephew,  on  condition 
tliat  the  profits  of  the  first  ten  years  should  be 
shared  witli  his  sisters.  It  was  a  kind  arrangement, 
and  gave  the  young  man  a  good  opportunity  to 
make  his  own  fortune,  and  to  provide  for  his 
father's  family.  But  he  had  other  aspirations. 
His  oWcr  brother  voyaged  betwixt  England  and 


b  EARLY  DAYS. 

India  as  the  surgeon  of  the  Walmer  Castle  and  the 
Oiven  Glendower;  and  Richard,  too,  must  needs  be 
a  surgeon.  In  his  medical  mania  it  is  Hkely  that 
he  was  haunted  by  the  brilUant  precedent  of  the 
Hunters,  and,  with  youthful  enthusiasm,  he  would 
recall  the  example  of  the  young  journeyman  who 
quitted  the  carpenter's  bench  to  become  the  prince 
of  anatomists,  and  the  collector  of  a  world-famed 
museum.  But  Rheece  and  Richard  Williams  were 
not  destined  to  repeat  the  romance  of  William 
Hunter  and  his  brother  John.  Rheece  died  at 
Madras,  a  generous  and  noble-hearted  young  man ; 
and  for  Richard,  God  had  provided  some  better 
thing  than  scientific  reputation. 

This  professional  bias  was  aided  by  a  strong  turn 
for  letters.  Our  friend  delighted  in  reading  books, 
and  sometimes  dreamed  of  making  them.  And  in 
a  learned  pursuit  he  doubtless  reckoned  on  a  large 
amount  of  literai'y  leisure.  This  is  frequently  a 
mistake.  A  clergyman  without  a  congregation,  a 
barrister  without  briefs,  and  a  physician  without 
patients,  have  abundance  of  leisure ;  but,  in  that 
case,  there  is  great  danger  of  their  ceasing  to  be 
literary.  On  the  other  hand,  a  minister  who  enters 
heartily  into  his  work,  a  lawyer  or  a  doctor  who 
prospers  in  his  practice,  has  as  little  time  to  spare 
for  his  own  special  likings  as  a  manufacturer  or  a 
merchant;  and,  when  the  daily  demand  on  his 
energies  is  answered,  we  question  if  he  will  retain 
an   equal   amount   of  zest  and   spirit.      In   other 


EARLY  DAYS. 


words,  should  any  of  our  readers  be  employed  in 
makint;  planes,  or  in  selling  or  using  them,  and 
should  they  at  the  same  time  be  sighing  after  better 
opportunity  to  read  great  authors, — we  know  not 
any  road  more  royal  than  their  present  calling. 
Most  likely,  even  now  it  allows  them  an  hour  or 
two  for  mental  improvement  or  intellectual  relaxa- 
tion ;  and,  if  they  are  diligent  in  their  business, 
there  is  no  more  legitimate  way  of  employing  their 
savings  than  in  purchasing  instalments  of  leisure 
for  their  favorite  pursuits. 

By  great  exertions,  Mr  Williams  accomplished 
a  medical  curriculum.  He  studied  at  University 
College,  London,  and  at  the  London  Hospital;  and 
having  been  initiated  in  the  practical  details  of  his 
profession  by  a  cousin  in  Oxfordshire,  he  Avas  able 
to  pass  his  examination  in  May  1841,  when  twenty- 
six  years  of  age.  For  some  time  he  acted  as  assist- 
ant to  various  medical  gentlemen  at  Norwich  and 
elsewhere ;  and,  eventually,  his  brother-in-law  and 
sister,  Mr  and  Mrs  Hill,  being  resident  in  Burslem, 
Staffordshire,  sent  him  an  invitation  to  come  and 
settle  beside  them.  That  invitation  he  accepted; 
and,  by  the  success  with  which  his  first  cases  were 
treated,  he  soon  attracted  notice,  and  became  a 
popular  practitioner,  with  extensive  employment. 
For,  with  an  irreproachable  character,  passionately 
addicted  to  the  noble  science  which  was  now  his 
calling,  carrying  a  prepossession  in  his  pleasant 
countenance  and  gentle  manners,  prompt,  punctual, 


8  EARLY  DAYS. 

and  affectionately  interested  in  his  patients,  and,  in 
a  profession  humane  and  generous  beyond  all 
others,  distinguished  by  his  liberality  and  dis- 
interestedness,— it  is  not  wonderful  that  he  soon 
became  a  favorite,  and  saw  opening  before  him  a 
field  of  abundant  occupation. 

During  all  this  interval,  however,  there  was  no 
religion  in  his  virtue.  Warm-hearted  and  manly, 
he  was  not  devout;  and,  amidst  all  his  solicitude  for 
the  bodily  health  of  his  neighbours,  the  salvation 
of  their  souls  or  of  his  own  had  never  cost  him  a 
thought.  With  an  ardent  and  enthusiastic  temper- 
ament, he  had  no  love  for  his  heavenly  Friend,  and 
no  sympathy  Avith  that  philanthropy  which  seeks 
the  eternal  welfare  of  its  objects. 

One  Lord's  Day,  a  friend  returning  from  public 
worship  called  on  him,  and  found  him  in  his  surgery 
reading  a  newspajicr.  His  friend  asked  him  if  this 
were  a  right  employment  of  God's  day.  There  was 
something  of  rebuke  in  the  reply :  "  Were  mv 
mind,  like  yours,  satisfied  that  Christianity  is  true, 
I  would  embrace  it  with  all  my  soul,  and  I  would 
live  accordingly."  Ilis  visitor  felt  that  he  was 
sincere,  and  could  only  regret  that,  to  a  nature  so 
energetic,  and,  in  many  respects,  so  ingenuous,  the 
gospel  was  nothing  more  than  a  cunning  fable  or 
a  cabalistic  formula. 


CHAPTEE  II. 

f  I]C  ^(ginning  ,of  gclfcr  gaiis. 


Have  mercy,  Lord,  on  me. 
As  thou  wert  ever  kind ; 
Let  me,  opprest  with  loads  of  guilt, 
Thy  wonted  mercy  fiml. 

Wash  off  my  foul  offence, 
And  cleanse  me  from  my  sin  ; 
For  I  confess  my  crime,  and  see 
How  great  my  guilt  has  been. 

Psalm  li.  1,  2,  3. — Bvady  and  Tate. 


When  the  Lord  Jesus  first  revealed  himself  to  me,  he  did  not 
reason  with  me  about  truth  and  error  ;  but  he  attacked  me  like  a 
warrior,  and  felled  me  to  the  ground  by  the  power  of  his  arm. — Van- 
der  Kemp. 


The  most  eventful  date  in  a  human  history  is  the 
commencement  of  its  heavenward  career ;  and, 
provided  it  is  really  to  the  Better  Country  that  tlio 
pilgrim  is  travelling,  it  is  immaterial  whether  hope 
or  fear  had  the  greatest  influence  on  his  outset, 
"  Wherever  it  begins,  every  conversion  ends  in 
Christ.  Some,  like  Matthew  Henry  and  Henry 
Martyn,  may  have  made  the  transition,  they  scarce 
know  how  :  but  all  agree  to  approve  of  God's  "way 
of  saving  sinners  by  Jesus  Christ  alone  ;  all  desire 
to  advance  the  glory  of  God  their  Saviour ;  all 
regard  Clirist's  yoke  as  easy,  and  his  burden  as 
light ;  all  combine  to  mourn  for  sin  with  deep  and 
godly  sorrow ;  all  arrive,  sooner  or  later,  at  a  good 
hope  through  grace  concerning  their  own  personal 
salvation ;  all  profoundly  revere  the  statutes  and 
ordinances  of  their  Lord ;  all  desire  to  spread  the 
savour  of  his  name ;  all  long  and  pray  for  the  day 


12  THE  BEGliNNlNG  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

Avhen  they    shall  be  perfect  in   holiness,  even  as 
their  Father  who  is  in  heaven  is  perfect."  * 

No  contrast  can  be  greater  than  between  a 
Christianity  thus  practical,  and  the  ordinary  course 
of  the  world.  Such  a  contrast  was  now  about  to 
be  exhibited  in  the  character  of  Mr  Williams;  and, 
from  a  paper  in  his  own  handwriting,  we  are  ap- 
pi'ised  of  the  circumstances  in  which  it  originated. 
These  are  so  peculiar,  that  some  may  think  it 
would  have  been  wise  to  suppress  them.  But  on 
the  principle  of  allowing  the  subject  of  this  Memoir 
to  be,  as  much  as  possible,  his  own  biographer,  we 
could  not  ignore  facts  which  he  has  detailed  so 
fully.  They  have  their  own  significance.  They 
harmonise  with  the  eager  temperament  and  lively 
imagination  of  the  writer.  They  are  not  without 
their  import  as  a  contribution  to  spiritual  patho- 
logy. Nor  should  the  value  of  the  result  be 
affected  by  the  anomalies  of  the  process.  The 
last  three  books  of  The  Course  of  Time  were  writ- 
ten in  the  inspiration  of  a  hectic  fever,  and  Kuhla 
Khan  was  composed  in  a  dream  ;  but  they  are  fine 
poems,  notwithstanding.  And,  even  allowing  that 
a  good  deal  of  the  morbid  and  visionary  may  have 
mingled  with  higher  processes  at  this  juncture  of 
Mr  Williams's  history,  the  result  was  a  sober  and 
healthful  reahty.  That  result  was,  a  disposition  so 
devout  and  benevolent,  a  life  so  holy,  a  spirit  so 

*  Lights  and  Shadows  of  the  Life  of  Faith.     By  the  Rev.  W.  K. 
Tweedie,  Edinburgh. 


THE  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DA.YS.  13 

self-sacrificing,  that,  whatever  circumstances  may 
have  attended  its  commencement,  every  Christian 
will  feel  that  God  himself  was  its  Author. 

Mr  Williams's  mind  was  marked  by  a  certain 
fervid  exuberance.  However  charming  in  personal 
intercourse,  with  a  fluent  pen  this  fulness  of  emo- 
tion is  apt  to  produce  redundant  writing.  For  the 
sake  of  our  readers,  we  shall,  therefore,  take  the 
freedom  of  shortening  the  paragraphs,  and  omit- 
ting expletive  words  and  unimportant  sentences. 
Were  we  editing  a  British  classic,  we  should  not 
venture  on  such  retrenchments ;  but  in  the  present 
case,  we  feel  that  our  responsibility  is  for  the 
author's  sentiments  and  statements  of  fact,  and 
that  condensation  is  not  a  licence,  but  a  duty. 
With  this  preliminary  remark,  we  proceed  to  give 
Mr  Williams's  narrative  of  the  singular  illness 
which  issued  in  his  conversion. 


"  I  bless  God  that  ever  I  was  afflicted.  Not 
only  do  I  date  my  conversion  from  my  illness,  but 
I  believe  that  this  illness  was  designed  for  my  con- 
version. It  was  a  seizure  more  remarkable  than 
any  of  which  I  remember  to  have  heard  or  read ; 
and,  apart  from  the  inward  working  of  the  mind, 
it  presented  a  series  of  extraordinary  symptoms, 
which  seem  to  defy  solution.  Myself  a  medical 
man,  and  for  many  years  accustomed  to  witness 
disease  in  every  form,  I  have  been  able  to  explain, 


14  THE  BEGINNIJ^tt  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

to  some  extent  at  least,  almost  every  case  ;  but  for 
the  cause  of  my  own  illness,  and  for  the  explana- 
tion of  its  strange  symptoms,  my  knowledge  and 
means  of  judging  fall  far  short.  But  whether 
mere  natural  causes  occasioned  all  the  bodily 
sensations  or  not,  scarcely  signifies :  the  mental 
changes,  I  am  fully  assured,  were  altogether  the 
work  of  God. 

"  At  the  very  outset,  I  should  acknowledge  that 
I  had  no  previous  belief  in  the  truth  of  Chris- 
tianity. I  viewed  it  sometimes  in  one  light,  some- 
times in  another.  I  regarded  it,  for  the  most  part, 
as  an  absurdity.  At  its  many  votaries  I  wondered, 
and  their  understandings  I  looked  down  upon  as 
strangely  deluded.  I  could  not  comprehend  how 
a  God  should  die,  nor  even  bring  my  mind  to 
admit  that  an  atonement  was  necessary.  The 
works  of  infidels,  however,  I  always  read  with 
dissatisfaction  or  disgust ;  and  any  scurrilous  at- 
tack on  the  faith  of  others  I  should  have  been 
ready  to  oppose.  But  into  the  truth  of  the  matter 
I  never  thought  of  inquiring ;  and,  as  far  as  my 
perusal  of  it  went,  the  Bible  was  a  mere  lumber- 
book.  Science,  literature,  and  my  profession, 
were  my  whole  delight ;  but  the  truth  or  falsehood 
of  Christianity  I  felt  it  no  part  of  my  business  to 
examine. 

"  Of  natural  religion  I  had  something  in  my 
heart.  Many  a  time  have  I  lifted  my  eyes  from 
nature  up  to  nature's  God,  and  have  adored  his 


THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS.  15 

excellency  as  revealed  in  his  beautiful  and  mag- 
nificent works.  I  knew  myself  to  be  a  creature 
sprung  from  God ;  but  I  never  dreamed  that  I 
was  a  creature  accursed  before  him.  I  knew  God 
to  be  infinitely  just ;  but  I  never  feared  that  that 
justice  would  consign  me  to  eternal  misery.  I 
knew  that  I  oftentimes  acted  contrary  to  my  con- 
science ;  but  I  believed  that  intellectual  enlighten- 
ment  and  the  mere  force  of  reasoning  could  carry 
human  nature  to  perfection,  and  place  it  far  above 
the  control  of  passion.  I  deified  human  nature  as 
capable  of  transcendent  virtue,  and  absolutely 
denied  its  innate  corruption.  I  hoped  that  the 
soul  was  immortal,  but  could  never  feel  convinced 
that  it  was  so ;  but  as  to  everlasting;  torments, — 
I  viewed  the  doctrine  as  sacrilege  and  a  defama- 
tion of  the  justice  of  God.  The  existence  of  a  devil 
I  believed  no  more  than  any  other  bugbear. 

"  The  only  instances  when  confidence  in  my  own 
opinions  has  been  altogether  shaken,  were,  I  well 
remember,  moments  when,  without  an  assig-nable 
reason,  I  have  awakened  from  sleep,  and  an  inde- 
scribable awe  and  terror  have  seized  on  my  soul, 
filling  it  with  undefined  apprehensions  of  the 
future.* 

*  To  such  lucid  moments  does  Jane  Taylor  refer,  in  lines  not  the 
less  poetical  because  of  their  simple  truthfulness  : — 

"  And  yet,  amid  the  hurry,  toil,  and  strife, 
The  claims,  the  urgencies,  the  whirl  of  life, — 
The  soul— perhaps  in  silence  of  the  night — 
Has  flashes,  transient  intervals  of  light ; 


16        THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

"  Such  is  a  slight  picture  of  ray  state  of  mind  pre- 
Tious  to  my  illness.  Up  to  tlie  moment  when  it 
seized  me  I  had  been  engaged  in  the  active  duties 
of  my  profession.  I  had  visited  many  patients, 
and  during  the  evening  had  felt  fatigued  and  lan- 
guid, and  anxious  to  seat  myself  comfortably  in  my 
arm-chair.  A  little  after  ten  o'clock  I  saw  the  last 
of  the  persons  waiting  for  me,  and  instantly  I  felt 
myself  severely  unwell.  I  Avent  up-stairs,  and  threw 
myself  on  my  bed.  In  a  few  minutes  I  felt  in- 
expressibly ill.  The  first  sensation  was  an  amazing 
weight  on  the  chest,  with  difficulty  of  respiration; 
the  carotids  of  my  throat  striking  like  hammers 
on  my  head,  and  a  feeling  as  though  torrents  of 
air  were  rushing  into  ray  brain,  and  the  head  were 

When  things  to  come,  without  a  shade  of  douht, 

In  terrible  reality  stand  out. 

Those  lucid  moments  suddenly  present 

A  glance  of  truth,  as  though  the  heavens  were  rent ; 

And  through  that  chasm  of  pure  celestial  light. 

The  future  breaks  upon  the  startled  sight ; 

Life's  vain  pursuits,  and  Time's  advancing  pace, 

Appear  with  death-bed  clearness,  face  to  face; 

And  Immortality's  expanse  sublime. 

In  just  proportion  to  the  speck  of  time  : 

While  Death,  uprising  from  the  silent  shades. 

Shews  his  dark  outline  ere  the  vision  fades  ; 

In  strong  relief  against  the  blazing  sky 

Appears  the  shadow  as  it  passes  by. 

And  though  o'erwhelming  to  the  dazzled  brain. 

These  are  the  moments  when  the  mind  is  sane; 

For  then,  a  hope  in  heaven — the  Saviour's  cross. 

Seem  what  they  are,  and  all  things  else  but  dross." 

Ei^sfn/s  in  lilii/me. 


THE  BEGINNINGS  OF  BETTER  DAYS.  17 

itself  expanding.  Tlie  agony  became  insupport- 
able, and  I  knocked  for  some  one  to  come  to  me. 
Meanwhile  my  mind  acquired  a  wonderful  vivacity. 
Thought  upon  thought  came  pouring  in  with  a  dis- 
tinctness of  apprehension,  enlargement  of  view,  and 
faithfulness  of  memory,  such  as  I  never  before 
experienced.  A  power  to  comprehend  my  personal 
identity,  and  to  understand  my  relation  to  time  and 
eternity,  was  wonderfully  given  me.  The  passing 
moment  seemed  without  beginning  or  end.  I  felt 
as  though  immortal  faculties,  immortal  relations, 
were  beginning  to  be  recognised.  The  thought 
began  to  stagger  me,  that  the  hand  of  death  was 
grasping  the  cords  of  life.  With  the  thought,  dark- 
ness— thick,  palpable  darlcness — gathered  on  my  _ 
soul.  A  mountain  load  seemed  to  crush  my  breast. 
It  was  girt  as  with  bands  of  iron.  My  heart  felt 
too  big  for  its  wonted  space.  A  horror  of  anguish 
filled  my  whole  being.  Unnumbered  sins  sprang 
up  before  my  astonished  conscience,  and  Death  in 
his  terror  rose  up  to  my  gaze.  'Look  where  I 
would,  there  was  no  hope.  One  wide,  unbounded 
ocean  of  dismay  and  terror,  lashed  with  tempestuous 
bowlings,  roared  on  every  side  ;  and  the  thought  of 
an  offended  God  pierced  my  soul  with  madness  and 
despair. 

"  In  this  state  I  lay  for  hours.  Meanwhile  my 
sister,  alarmed  by  my  knocking,  had  come  and 
found  me  speechless.  Others  of  my  friends  Avere 
sent  for,  then  medical  attendance.     Recourse  was 

B 


18  THE  BEGIISMNG  OF  BETTEK  DAYS. 

had  to  remedial  measures ;  but  I  still  grew  worse. 
The  night  passed,  and  the  morning  found  me  the 
same.  A  painfully  vivid  consciousness  of  every- 
thing going  on  around  me  added  greatly  to  my 
distress.  The  first  faint  glimmer  of  light  that 
broke  into  my  soul  was  when  the  name  of  Jesus 
was  uttered.  With  the  very  thought  of  that  name 
the  hope  of  mercy  was  allied,  and  like  a  drowning 
man  I  clung  to  that  hope.  In  the  agony  of  my 
soul  I  called  upon  that  name ;  and  in  the  mean- 
while, finding  that  one  of  God's  servants  (Mr  M., 
senior)  had  entered  the  room,  I  felt  a  new  hope,  as 
if  the  very  presence  of  a  man  of  God  was  a  source 
of  safety.  He  bade  me  look  to  Jesus.  With  the 
very  bidding,  I  felt  an  infinite  joy  in  so  doing. 
Faith  in  that  holy  name  rapidly  gained  the  ascen- 
dant. My  darkness  was  turned  into  light,  and  in 
a  short  time  I  felt  a  sweet  sense  of  the  pardoning 
mercy  of  God.  After  this  I  grew  better  and  better, 
and  all  my  symptoms  remitted,  till  I  felt  nothing 
except  the  languor  resulting  from  the  violence  of 
ray  previous  sujfferings. 

"  Towards  the  evening,  however,  a  relapse  took 
place,  with  phenomena  essentially  different.  Be- 
ginning with  the  same  contraction  of  the  chest  as 
before,  there  followed  tetanic  spasms — a  violent 
jerking  of  the  upper  part  of  the  body  from  side  to 
side,  interrupted  by  quiet  intervals,  sometimes  by  a 
complete  rigidity  of  the  neck  and  spine.  So  sensi- 
tive was  I  to  touch,  or  to  the  impression  of  a  breath 


THE  BEGIXXING  OF  BKlTliR  DAYS.  19 

of  air,  that  the  approach  of  any  one  evincuig  i\n 
intention  to  disturb  me  would  tlnow  me  into  con- 
vulsions; and,  suspecting  tetanus  or  hydrophobia, 
the  three  medical  attendants  inquired  whether  I 
liad  been  bitten  by  a  dog,  or  had  sustained  any 
mechanical  injury.  Witli  short  intermissions,  tliis 
state  of  things  lasted  for  successive  days,  till  my 
strength  was  nearly  exhausted.  Towards  the  close 
of  the  fourth  day,  and  during  the  succeeding  night, 
ray  eyes  were  upturned  in  their  sockets ;  I  retained 
not  the  slightest  power  of  voluntary  breathing ;  I 
was  incapable  of  speech  ;  and  the  attempt  to  swallow 
a  drop  of  water  brought  on  spasms  which  threatened 
suffocation. 

"  During  all  this  period  I  was  possessed  of  per- 
fect consciousness ;  nor  had  I  any  pain.  The  only 
])ainful  sensation  was  the  impossibility  of  resisting 
the  convulsive  movements  of  my  body,  and  the  fear- 
ful constriction  of  my  chest.  At  first  I  was,  as  it  were, 
a  mere  spectator  and  observer  of  the  symptoms — 
thinking,  and  even  reasoning  upon  them ;  and  when 
abstracted  from  their  consideration,  T  felt  that  I 
could  cahnlv  meditate  on  God's  mei'cies.  I  had 
no  painful  conflicts  about  my  state,  but  a  settled 
serenity — a  tranquiUity  for  which  I  could  scarcely 
account,  unless  from  the  conviction  that  my  salvation 
was  sure.  But  during  the  last  night  of  this  stage, 
I  experienced  wonderful  evidence  of  a  world  to 
come.  My  friends  were  assembled  at  various  dis- 
tances around  my  bed.     The  curtains  were  drawn, 


20  THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

and  a  candle  yielded  its  obscure  rays.  I  heard  the 
sobbings  of  my  relations.  I  knew  that  they  looked 
on  ray  life  as  fast  fleeting.  I  was  myself  convinced 
that  I  should  not  recover.  I  had  pictured  my  body 
carried  to  the  grave,  and  had  marked  in  my  mind's 
eye  all  the  attendant  circumstances.  Mentally  I 
had  taken  leave  of  earth,  and  I  lay  in  perfect 
jieace,  assured  of  my  salvation.  A  dead  silence  now 
reigned  around ;  and  as  I  w^aited  the  moment  of  my 
final  change,  it  was  an  intense  and  deeply  absorb - 
in  a'  thouo-ht  that  soon  the  great  scene  would  be 
revealed.  Whilst  lying  thus,  I  thought  I  heard  a 
gentle  knocking.  My  soul  started  in  expectation. 
Inwardly  I  exclaimed,  '  I  come.  Lord  Jesus  I'  Re- 
lapsing into  quietude,  I  felt  all  but  dismissed.  It 
had  the  effect  of  so  far  arousing  me,  that  I  got 
]uj\ver  to  speak,  and  called  to  my  kindred,  who 
came  around  me  in  surprise  and  anticipation.  I 
took  leave  of  them.  I  told  one  to  be  watchful,  and 
spoke  to  the  others,  till  power  of  speech  again  for- 
sook me.  As  I  lay,  I  drew  my  hand  to  my  breast, 
to  examine  its  beatings.  I  felt  they  were  small  and 
weak,  and  I  was  content,  for  I  should  soon  be  in  an- 
other world.  I  was  even  anxious  to  die ;  for  I  fe  red 
lest,  living  again,  I  might  lose  what  now  seemed  so 
sure.  Then  it  was  that  a  new  order  of  feelings 
canje  over  me.  I  had  the  most  extraordinary  sense 
of  the  bodily  presence  of  the  Power  of  Darkness 
standing  by  the  side  of  my  bed ;  not  that  1  imagined 
that  I  saw  anvtbing,  but  I  felt  as  if  I  could  l.avo 


THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS.  21 

put  my  hand  on  tlic  very  spot  wlicre  he  stood,  an  I 
I  shrank  from  that  side  with  horror  and  loathing. 
But,  blessed  be  God !  on  the  opposite  side  stood, 
equally  revealed  to  ray  spiritual  senses,  the  Power 
unto  Salvation,  the  very  embodiment  of  love ;  and  to 
this  I  turned  as  to  a  refuge.  I  shrank  from  the  Evil 
One,  and  poured  out  my  prayers  to  Christ,  whoso 
protection  was  evident  to  me.  Thus  I  lay,  when, 
all  of  a  sudden,  the  most  brilliant  light  darted  into 
the  room,  and  filled  me  with  astonishment.  Now, 
I  thought,  the  time  is  surely  at  hand.  God  is 
visibly  making  manifest  his  approach.  Quickly 
will  the  angels  of  God  be  descending,  and  I  shall 
behold  my  Redeemer.  By  the  vigor  thus  imparted 
I  was  enabled  to  sit  up  in  bed,  and  with  a  feeling 
like  that  which  Lazarus  might  have  experienced, 
conscious  of  a  supernatural  Presence,  I  called  out 
to  my  friends,  '  Did  you  not  see  the  hght  ? '  Next 
minute  the  impression  came  over  me  tliat  I  was  yet 
to  live ;  and  at  the  same  time,  inspired  with  the 
certainty  of  knowing  vvdiat  I  ought  to  take,  I  told 
my  assistant  to  bring  me  forty  drops  of  the  tincture 
of  opium,  and  twenty  drops  of  the  muriated  tinc- 
ture of  iron,  and  to  repeat  the  dose  every  twenty 
minutes.  After  taking  the  first  dose,  I  continued 
sitting  in  bed,  feeling  as  though  entranced ;  and, 
what  is  singular,  my  arms,  when  extended  at  an 
early  part  of  the  evening,  had  remained  so,  evincing 
the  cataleptic  state.  1  took  the  second  dose,  and 
lay  down.     These  doses,  so  large  that  my  assistant 


22  THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

after\yards  wondered  what  could  have  possessed 
him  to  give  them,  were  the  means  of  my  recovery. 
After  a  miserable  interval,  during  which  the  body 
seemed  to  be  sinking  into  corruption,  and  the  mind 
itself  seemed  to  have  lost  all  power  of  joy  or  sorrow, 
hope  or  fear,  a  profound  sleep  closed  my  eyes.  It 
lasted  upwards  of  twelve  hours,  and,  awaking  as 
from  a  dream,  there  remained  no  trace  of  my 
former  state,  except  extreme  debility.  I  never  had 
the  slightest  relapse,  but  made  rapid  progress  in 
recovery." 

An  interesting  volume  was  lately  published,  in 
which  a  Christian  scholar  recalls  the  workings  of 
his  mind  during  a  long  period  of  derangement  ;  * 
and  we  believe  that  both  science  and  religion  arc 
eventually  served  by  accurate  statements  of  cases 
in  which  moral  and  physical  phenomena  uiingle. 
We  are  too  ignorant  of  pathology  to  be  able  to 
explain  all  the  symptoms  which  Mr  AVilliams  has  so 
vividly  described ;  and  it  would  be  very  presump- 
tuous in  us  to  profess  to  account  for  those  sensa- 
tions which  the  patient,  himself  a  medical  man, 
modestly  acknowledges  as  beyond  the  range  of  his 
own  experience  or  reading.  Yet  there  are  one  or 
two  circumstances  of  which  an  ordinary  spectator 
may  possibly  judge  as  accurately  as  the  patient 
himself,  with  all  his  professional  training. 

For  instance,  it  was  at  the  close  of  a  laborious 

*  Autobiography  of  the  Rev.  William  Walford.     Edited  by  the 
Rev.  J.  Stooghton. 


THE  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DAYS.  2'-\ 

day,  and  ^vhen  excessively  fatigued,  that  Mr  Wil- 
liams v.-as  first  seized  with  those  singular  sensations 
in  his  head,  and  with  the  brilliant  accompanying 
ideas.  Now,  to  say  nothing  of  any  intermediate 
cause,  such  as  determination  of  blood  to  the  brain, 
we  know  that  excessive  application  or  exhaustion 
is  not  unfrequcntly  followed  by  similar  odd  sensa- 
tions. Dr  Moore  mentions  Dr  Isaac  Watts,  who, 
after  great  exertion  of  mind,  thought  his  head  too 
large  to  allow  him  to  pass  out  at  the  study  door  ; 
as  also  the  case  of  a  gentleman  who,  after  deliver- 
ing a  lecture  at  the  College  of  Surgeons,  said  that 
his  head  felt  as  if  it  filled  the  room.*  With  Mr 
Williams,  the  sensation  was  "  as  though  torrents  of 
air  were  rushino;  into  his  brain,  and  the  head  itself 
expanding."  Nor  do  we  suppose  that  it  is  at  all 
uncommon  for  nervous  exhaustion  to  be  followed 
by  such  cataleptic  seizures  as  Mr  Williams  expe- 
rienced, when  his  eyes  were  fixed,  and  when  he  had 
lost  the  power  of  speech,  as  well  as  voluntary  respi- 
ration.!    The  "  inspired  certainty  "  with  which  he 

*  Tlie  Power  of  the  Soul  over  the  Body.  By  George  Moore,  M.D. 
Fourth  edition,  p.  2G4. 

f  To  our  lay  ignorance,  the  most  perplexing  complication  of  this 
illness  is  the  tetanic  access  which  marked  the  second  stage.  Per- 
haps some  light  may  be  thrown  on  it  by  the  following  case  detailed 
by  Dr  Joseijh  Williams,  who  describes  the  patient  as  suffering  from 
cerebral  irritation,  mixed  up  with  hysteria  and  violent  tetanic 
spasms.  "  She  declared  the  pain  was  so  great  that  she  should  go 
mad.  Alarmed  at  the  tetanic  symptoms  more  especially,  I  examined 
carefully  the  thumb  and  fingers,  to  ascertain  if  these  had  been  in- 
jured ;  inquired  minutely  if  she  had  lately  pi-icked  her  finger,  or 


24  THE  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DAYS. 

prescribed  for  himself  the  tonic  opiate,  need  not 
surprise  us.  Suggested  by  some  constitutional 
craving,  invalids  often  fancy  that  if  they  could  only 
obtain  a  given  antidote,  they  would  instantly  be 
well.  And  they  frequently  are  right.  Sometimes 
the  specific  is  a  strange  one,  and  would  not  readily 
have  occurred  to  a  man  of  science.  In  the  present 
instance  we  presume  that  science  would  have  coun- 
tersigned the  patient's  prescription,  had  it  only 
known  all  the  circumstances ;  but  then  it  must  be 
remembered  that  in  the  present  instance  the  patient 
liimself  was  a  doctor. 

"  Intense  mental  conceptions  so  strongly  im- 
pressed upon  the  mind  as,  for  the  moment,  to  be 
believed  to  have  a  real  existence,"  are  amongst  the 
most  frequent  spectral  illusions.*  As  coming  near 
this  class,  we  must  regard  that  "extraordinary 
sense  of  the  bodily  presence  of  the  PoAver  of  Dark- 
ness standing  by  the  side  of  his  bed,"  which  filled 
the  imagination  of  the  patient  towards  the  close  of 
his  illness,  as  well  as  the  brilliant  light  which  fol- 

received  any  blow  or  fall,  stating  to  the  friends  that  I  had  never 
seen  such  symptoms  but  where  a  nerve  had  been  irritated.  Ex- 
amined the  mouth ;  the  teeth  perfect,  undecayed;  but  still  dissaiis- 
fied,  I  took  out  my  pencil-case  and  gently  struck  each  tooth ;  on 
tapping  the  second  siiperior  molar  of  the  affected  side,  great  pain 
tsnsued,  and  on  repeating  this  it  was  increased."  On  removing  the 
tooth  it  was  detected  that  pus  was  pressing  on  the  pulpy  portion  of 
the  nerve ;  and  thus  incipient  mania  was  cured,  and  the  life  of  the 
patient  was  saved. — See  Williams  on  Insanity,  p.  260. 

*  See  Hibbert  on  Apparitions.     Abercronibie  on  the  Intellectual 
Powers,  part  3. 


THE  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DAYS.  2.') 

lowed.  To  bystanders  no  light  was  visible,  no 
presence  was  palpable.  Unlike  the  voice  and  the 
light  on  the  road  to  Damascus,  which  the  specta- 
tors heard  and  saw,  these  manifestations  were  con- 
fined to  the  individual's  own  mind. 

Still  these  ideas  were  substantially  correct. 
Disease  might  embody  them  in  forms  too  material ; 
and  yet  they  were  truths.  It  was  true  that  sins 
unnumbered  stood  chargeable  against  one  who 
had  hitherto  lived  without  God  in  the  world.  It 
was  true  that  God  Avas  offended,  and  death  was 
coming.  It  was  true  that  boundless  dismay  and 
terror  environed  tlie  Christless  transo-ressor.  The 
name  of  Jesus  had  no  more  effect  in  tranquillising 
the  conscience  and  kindling  hope  than  that  blessed 
name  should  ever  have.  And  the  instinct  which 
shrank  from  the  Power  of  Darkness  and  cried  to 
Jesus  for  protection,  was  itself  a  token  that  a  new 
life  was  dawning.  There  might  be  nervous  excite- 
ment, but  there  was  also  a  spiritual  awakening. 
There  might  be  morbid  sensations;  but  the  per- 
vading conviction  was  scriptural,  and  the  conse- 
quent change  of  thought  and  feeling  was  perma- 
nent. That  change  we  shall  leave  Mr  AVilliams  to 
describe. 

"  It  was  on  the  fifteenth  day  of  September  1846 
that  I  was  taken  ill.  It  is  now  September  1847 
Avhen  I  am  writing  this.  The  delio-htful  feelino-sof 
the  first  few  days  of  convalescence  I  remember 
well.      Joyfully    exulting    in    the   interposition    of 


26  THE  liKGINXlNG   OF  BETTEll  DAYS. 

Divine  Providence  and  mercy,  which  had  brought 
me  out  of  thick  darkness  into  tlie  glorious  light  of 
truth,  0  what  a  heaven  flitted  through  my  soul ! 
Holiness  with  its  celestial  gilding  seemed  to  tinge 
every  object  around  me.  The  world  was  no  longer 
the  same  world;  its  people  no  longer  the  same 
beings.  Myself  and  my  fellows  I  no  longer  re- 
garded as  creatures  of  a  moment's  duration,  but 
I  saw  eternity  impressed  as  a  seal  on  the  whole 
genei'ation  of  men.  The  universe  was  no  longer 
a  confused  assemblage  of  indistinct  parts,  moving 
towards  a  gloomy  terminus,  but,  as  far  as  the 
Divine  purposes  were  concerned,  a  bright  whole 
of  uniform  perfection,  and  the  entire  expanse  filled 
with  love,  unbounded  love.  God  himself  seemed 
to  move  everywhere.  All  was  joy  to  my  soul.  I 
looked  on  myself  as  a  brand  plucked  from  the  burn- 
ing, and  rejoiced  in  the  sure  hope  of  salvation. 
Jesus  Avas  most  precious  to  me — my  glory  and  in- 
finite joy.  The  Bible,  hitherto  a  sealed  book,  was 
now  a  river  of  water  to  my  thirsty  soul.  I  was 
astounded  with  its  contents.  As  I  turned  over  its 
pnges,  wonder  upon  wonder  ravished  my  delighted 
heart.  I  felt  that  I  would  care  to  live  only  for 
the  sake  of  reading  it.  It  was  a  glorious  hght. 
At  times  its  heavenly  rays  would  subdue  me  into 
a  mellow  and  peaceful  benignity ;  at  ethers,  rouse 
me  into  ecstatic  bliss.  Everywhere  was  the  autho- 
rity, the  love,  of  God  recognised.  Its  power  to 
command  mv  obedience  was  as  the  thunder-clad 


THE  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DAYS.       27 

arm  of  Omnipotence;  and  its  pleadings  for  holi- 
ness were  as  the  gentle  whisperings  of  love,  . 
to  which  my  heai't,  my  mind,  my  soul  answered 
assent.  How  I  wondered  at  my  former  dark- 
ness! How  amazed  did  I  feel  that  the  precious 
light  had  so  long  shone  in  my  way,  and  I  never 
had  perceived  it !  I  resolved  to  make  it  the 
absolute  rule  of  my  life. 

"  These  first  days  were  as  though  they  had  been 
a  foretaste  of  heavenly  peace.  Never  shall  I  forget 
mv  first  mortification  at  finding  that  sin  still 
existed  within  me.  There  had  been  no  actual  com- 
mittal of  an  oftence  that  my  conscience  charged  me 
with;  yet  a  sudden  and  unexpected  change  had' 
come  over  me.  There  was  a  cloudiness  in  my 
mind ;  my  faith  Avas  dim ;  my  heart  had  ceased  to 
exult.  It  was  as  though  all  had  been  a  bright  and 
glorious  dream,  and  I  had  now  awakened  to  the 
stern  realities  of  a  cold  and  miserable  world. 
Alas,  the  bitterness  of  that  moment !  I  strove  to 
recall  my  hopes — they  seemed  delusion.  I  read 
my  Bible — the  bright  revealing  light  which  had 
heretofore  almost  made  the  very  print  more  clear 
was  gone ;  and,  although  I  still  knew  it  to  be  the 
Word  of  God,  the  page  had  ceased  to  enkindle 
rapture  or  inspire  emotion.  I  knew  not  how  to 
account  for  this  state.  I  had  believed  that  the 
work  of  chano-e  and  renovation  had  been  completed, 
at  least  carried  to  so  liioh  a  deo-ree  that  it  was  im- 
possible  I  could  wilfully  si.n  against  God  again.     I 


28  THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS. 

abhorred  the  thoug-ht,  yet  lierc  I  was  in  davkness, 
and  sin  palpably  abounding  in  my  heart.  How  sad 
was  the  sight  of  myself!  It  was  the  first  glimpse 
at  the  inherent  corruption  and  original  depravity 
of  my  heart.  It  was  the  first  of  a  series  of  painful 
but  important  lessons  which  convinced  me  that  God 
had  only  hitherto  instructed  me  in  the  first  prin- 
ciples, and  laid  the  foundation  for  my  faith ;  but 
that  the  Avork  of  grace  had  to  be  carried  on,  and 
an  absolute  change  of  heart  cifected,  by  many  a 
severe  and  fiery  ordeal. 

-"  In  the  course  of  weeks,  I  was  enabled  to  take 
a  trip  into  North  Wales  ;  here  my  connexion  with 
'the  world  was  first  re-established.  All  the  avoca- 
tions of  man,  that  were  apart  from  his  religious 
duties,  appeared  to  me  to  have  vanity  legibly 
stamped  on  them.  On  my  route  I  stopped  a  short 
time  in  Liverpool,  but  the  bustle  and  commotion 
excited  no  pleasurable  sympathy  ;  for  I  felt  that  it 
all  was  vanity.  The  whirl,  the  din,  the  confusion, 
all  told  me  of  the  world's  spirit ;  and  in  the  coun- 
tenance of  the  busy  throng  I  could  not  -read  one 
expression  in  unison  with  my  own  feelings,  or 
which  came  home  to  my  heart.  At  Beaumaris  I 
abode  at  a  commercial  liotel,  and  there,  in  the 
presence  of  the  usual  visitants  of  an  inn,  I  took  out 
my  Bible,  glorying  in  the  thought  that  I  was  thus 
unfurling  Christ's  banner.  One  of  the  company 
entered  into  conversation,  and  boasted  of  his  reli- 
gious acquisitions,  and  of  the  high  position  he  held 


THE  BEGINNING  OF  BETTER  DAYS.  29 

in  the  church  to  which  he  belono-ed  as  teacher  and 
deacon.  But  gradually  he  drank  to  inebriation. 
I  was  glad  to  find  a  room  to  myself,  and  in  dejec- 
tion to  ponder  over  this  first  instance  of  a  false 
professor. 

"  My  stay  in  North  Wales,  especially  my  visit 
to  Llanberis  and  Snowdon,  afforded  my  mind  the 
healthful  occupation  of  contemplating  and  adoring 
God  as  revealed  in  his  works.     To  me  the  God  of 
nature  and  the  God  of  revelation  now  were  one, 
and  I  began  more  sensibly  to   feel   the  relation 
wherein  we  stand  to  God  by  the  conjoint  link  of 
creation  and  redemption.     Hoav  glorious  to  know 
that  a  pathway  had  been  opened  for  the  rebellious 
sinner  to  the  favor  of  the  great  Etrrnnl,  whose 
hand  had  formed  the  miglity  fabric  of  the  universe, 
and  who  had  given  the  being  and  life  we  enjoy,  but 
from  whom  I  had  so  long  been  severed,   and  to 
whom  I  had  never  felt  my  relation,  nor  acknow- 
ledged my  obedience!     But  the  great  Eternal  was 
now  the  Lord  my  God ;  and  I,  the  creature  of  his 
hand,  could,  through  the  Redeemer,  look  up  and 
believe  that  the  Power  which  guided  the  planets  in 
their  course  would  direct  me  in  all  my  ways,  and 
preserve  me  by  his  providential  care.     I  felt  that 
he  had  first  loved  me.     I  felt  that  God  so  loved 
the  world  as  to  give  his  only  begotten  Son,  that 
Avhosoever  believeth  in  him  should  not  perish,  but 
have  everlasting  life.     I  felt  that  it  is  the  First  and 
the  Last  who  there  expresses  his  care  for  all  the 


30  THIi;  BEGINNING  OP  BETTER  DAYS. 

family  of  man,  including  myself,  a  worm  so  insigni- 
ficant. At  that  mercy  I  could  only  wonder  and 
adore,  and,  with  faint  conceptions  of  his  love  and 
grace,  I  could  but  humble  myself  before  him." 


CHAPTER   III. 

Cfirisliaii  (t.VDcricnrc  Hiiir  HstMness. 


Mercy  and  Trutli,  that  long  were  miss'd. 

Now  joyfully  are  met ; 
Sweet  peace  and  righteousness  have  kiss'd, 
And  hand  in  hand  are  set. 

Truth  from  the  earth,  like  to  a  flower. 

Shall  bud  and  blossmu  then  ; 
And  justice  from  her  heavenly  bower 

Look  down  on  mortal  men. 

Psalm  Ixxxv.  10,  11. — Milton. 


I  fear  that  much  of  my  backwardness  in  spiritual  matters  may  be 
imputed  to  my  overlooking  so  much  the  work  of  the  Spirit  of  God  in 
the  plan  of  salvation  And  oh !  how  important  is  His  work  !  To 
open  the  eyes,  enlighten  tlie  understanding,  soften  the  heart,  remove 
prejudices,  "  shed  abroad  the  love  of  God  abundantly  in  the  heart," 
to  "witness  with  our  spirit  that  we  are  the  sons  of  God,"  to  "  help 
our  infirmities,"  to  "seal  us  unto  the  day  of  redemption." — Rev.  J, 
Macdonald  of  Calcutta. 


There  is  such  a  thing  as  a  denominational  zoology. 
There  is  a  certain  temperament,  there  arc  certain 
mental  tendencies,  from  Avhich,  if  a  man  is  not  con- 
tent to  remain  a  Presbyterian  in  Scotland  or  an 
Episcopalian  in  England,  it  may  be  predicted  which 
other  section  of  the  Christian  community  he  will 
join.  The  Wesleyan  body  is  the  great  absorbent 
of  warm  hearts  and  fervid  spirits.  In  the  fre- 
quency of  its  devotional  meetings,  in  the  frankness 
and  unreserve  of  its  Christian  intercourse,  in  the 
vigor  of  its  responses  and  the  soaring  rapture  of  its 
hymns,  and  in  the  benevolent  vivacity  which  finds  a 
post  and  an  employment  for  every  member,  it  meets 
•  many  cravings  of  the  young  and  ardent  convert.  Is 
he  crying,  in  the  gladness  of  his  soul,  "  Sing  aloud 
unto  God  our  strength :  make  a  joyful  noise  unto 
the  God  of  Jacob  "  ?  Alike  in  the  cathedral  and  the 
conventicle,  he  is  apt  to  be  depressed  by  an  organic 
solo  or  a  rueful  dirge ;  but  escaping  to  the  Metho- 
dist meeting,  he  finds  their  "  glory  "  all  "  awake : " 

c 


34  CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS. 

they  are  "taking  the  psalm,  and  bringing  the  pleasant 
harp  AYJth  the  psaltery,  and  blowing  up  the  trumpet," 
and  with  exulting  rivalry,  "  young  men  and  maidens, 
old  men  and  children,"  are  praising  the  Lord.    In  the 
eagerness  of  first  love  is  he  exclaiming,  "  Come  and 
hear,  all  ye  that  fear  God,  and  I  wull  declare  what 
he  hath  done  for  my  soul !  "     Bui  nobody  will  stop 
to  listen ;  and  so,  for  an  audience  he  is  driven  away 
to  the  love-feast  or  class-meeting.     In  the  exuber- 
ance of  a  newly-awakened  zeal,  would  he  like  an 
outlet  for  his  energies,  a  field  of  Christian  activity  ? 
In  the  sanctuary  which  he  has  hitherto  frequented 
he  feels  himself  a  cipher,     lie  has  never  been  in- 
vited to  engage  in  any  scheme  of  usefulness,  and, 
except  the  neat  and  noiseless  sexton  who  bows  him 
into  his  pew,  no  one  seems  to  know  him.     But  he 
has  not  worshipped  three  Sabbaths  with  the  Metho- 
dists when  he  is  recognised  and  accosted,  and  three 
months  have  not  passed  before  he  is  installed  in  the 
Sunday-school,  or,  with  a  bundle  of  tracts  and  a  rov- 
ing commission,  is  sent  out  into  the  highw^ays  and 
hedges.  The  portrait  of  the  great  founder  on  the  wall, 
a  box  for  Wesleyan  missions  on  the  mantel-shelf, 
placards  of  the  next  anniversary  in  the  shop  win-- 
dow,  the  occasional  dropping  in  of  a  brother  during 
the  day  with  friendly  inquiry  as  to  his  health  of 
soul,  hearty  hand-shakings  at  the  evening  prayer- 
meeting,  and  a  vesper  stanza  from  the  consecrated 
hymn-book,  all  betoken  the  activity,  the  brotherly- 
kindness,  and  the  cheerful  piety  in  the  midst  of 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  35 

which  the  young  Theophilus  has  found  his  ecclesi- 
astical habitation  and  his  congenial  home. 

The  society   which   has   yielded  a  logician   so 
acute  as  the   younger  Treffry,  and  a  systematist 
so  masterly  as  Richard  Watson,  to  say  nothing  of 
a  scholar  so  erudite  as  Adam  Clarke, — such  a  so- 
ciety cannot  be  reproached  with  the  lack  of  Biblical 
or  theoloo-ical   learning.     Nevertheless,  the  lovers 
of  metaphysical  divinity  and  Scriptural  exposition 
will  not  be  apt  to  join  a  community  whose  migra- 
tory ministers  and  perpetual  excitement  make  it 
a  church  upon  wheels.     Wesleyan  Christianity  is 
emotional  and  experimental;   it  has  no  attraction 
for  severe  reasoners  and  abstract  speculators ;  nor 
is   it   adapted    to    spirits   sedate   or    sombre.     Its 
ready-made  materials  are  the  men  of  feeliiig;  the 
sanguine,  the  impulsive,  and  enthusiastic  natures, 
whom  the  grace  of  God  makes  the  best  evangel- 
ists, and  the  -^kind,  humane,  and  homely  natures 
whom  the  same  grace  converts  into  the  salt  of  our 
English  factories,  the  living  epistles  of  such  rural 
neighbourhoods    as    are   blessed    with    their    pre- 
sence.     And  although    the  predominance    of  the 
emotional  element  in  Wesleyan  membership  is  not 
without  its  inconvenience  and  its  perils ;  although 
it  aggravates  the  task  of  the  governing  body,  and 
renders  periods  of  internal   commotion  vehement 
and  almost  volcanic ;  still,  in  the  normal  state  of 
the  society,   it  gives  a  peculiar   animation  to   the 
services  of  its  sanctuaries,  and  an  inton?;ity  to  its 


36  CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS. 

missionary  zeal,  far  beyond  the  proportion  of  most 
of  the  other  Christian  communities ;  and  from  what 
we  know  of  his  ardent  temperament,  we  cannot 
wonder  that  the  Wesleyan  Society  was  the  chm'ch 
which,  after  his  conversion,  Mr  Williams  joined. 

The  last  chapt^  left  him  on  a  tour  of  North 
"Wales.  A  short  journey  re-established  his  healths 
and  he  returned  to  Burslem  to  receive  a  warm  wel- 
come from  former  patients  and  friends.  We  shall 
now  resume  his  own  narrative : — 

"  I  sought  to  become  connected  with  the  visible 
Church  of  Christ.  Previous  to  my  ilhiess  I  had 
for  nearly  twelve  months  attended  divine  service 
at  the  Wesleyan  chapel,  owing  to  the  esteem  I 
entertained  for  the  abilities  and  eloquence  of  the 
ministers  then  laboring  in  the  circuit.  But  I 
never  looked  on  myself  as  a  Methodist,  nor  pro- 
fessed to  belong  to  any  church.  Jn  my  early  years 
I  had  with  my  parents  attended  the  tabernacle  of 
the  Independents,  and  as  1  grcAv  older  I  occa- 
sionally went  to  tlie  Established  Church.  When  a 
student  in  London,  except  when  some  popular 
clergyman  attracted  my  notice,  I  generally  ab- 
sented myself  entirely  from  public  Avorsliip,  In 
those  days  I  should  have  scorned  the  thought  as 
an  insult  to  my  understanding,  liad  it  been  sug- 
gested that  I  might  some  day  join  the  Methodist 
Society.  For  them,  of  all  sects,  I  had  the  greatest 
distaste,  and  they  were  a  by-word  and  a  I'cproach 
in  my  mouth.     However,  from  m.any  opportunities 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  37 

of  judging  of  one  individual  amongst  them — the 
same  who  proved  such  a  friend  during  my  illness — 
I  had  arrived  at  a  much  more  elevated  opinion  of 
Christian  integrity  and  worth  than  I  had  ever 
entertained  before ;  and  now  gratitude  as  well  as 
high  respect  bound  me  to  the  Wesleyan  Church 
through  him.  Besides,  their  fervent  zeal  for  the 
cause  of  God  was  attractive  to  my  now  roused 
feelings.  I  desired  that  every  creature  should 
rejoice  in  the  glorious  tidings  revealed  to  myself, 
and  could  have  wished  for  a  trumpet  tongue  to 
echo  salvation  over  the  length  and  breadth  of  the 
earth. 

"  Accordingly,  on  the  29th  of  November  1846, 
I  presented  myself  at  one  of  the  class  meetings,  the 
leader  of  which  was  my  already  tried  friend,  and 
received  a  ticket  on  trial  The  minister  was  pre- 
sent that  evening,  and,  besides  giving  expression  to 
that  presence  of  God  which  he  enjoyed  in  his  own 
soul,  he  addressed  interrogatories,  counsel,  admoni- 
tion, and  encouragement  to  each  one  of  us.  With 
our  veteran  leader  I  was  delighted ;  such  was  the 
honest  truthfulness  of  all  he  said,  and  such  the 
evidence  he  afforded  of  living  in  very  near  com- 
munion with  God  in  Christ  Jesus.  However,  there 
were  feelings  in  my  breast  which  I  little  expected 
to  find  there.  That  pride  which  depreciates  the 
understanding  of  others  and  exalts  our  own,  and 
which  so  abounded  in  my  secret  thoughts  and 
actions  before    my   conversion,   I   found   sensibly 


38  CHRISTIAN  EXPEEIEXCE  AND  USIJFULNESS, 

existing  now.  I  tried  to  conquer  it,  but  it  was  not 
yet  overthrown.  It  was  the  intrenched  fortress  of 
the  enemy,  from  which  he  could  issue  at  any 
unguarded  moment,  and  lay  waste  my  peace  of 
mind.  Many  have  been  his  triumphs.  Many  a 
time  has  he  taken  me  captive  at  his  will ;  but  I 
feel  that  I  shall  be  more  than  conqueror  through 
Him  that  loved  me,  and  shall  finally  sing  the  glories 
of  Him  that  giveth  us  the  victory. 

"  As  I  became  better  acquainted  with  the  society, 
I  found  that  its  doctrines  and  organisation  wonder- 
fully coincided  with  my  daily-increasing  knowledge 
of  the  Scriptures,  and  with  the  teaching  wliich  God's 
Spirit  imparted  to  me.  I  found  it  was  God's  will 
that  I  should  be  associated  with  one  individual  who 
served  God  in  spirit  and  in  truth ;  but,  alas  !  how 
immeasurably  distant  was  the  period  when  I  could 
hope  to  be  thus  fervent  in  spirit,  serving  the  Lord ! 
Day  by  day  I  found  fresh  evidence  of  the  depravity 
of  my  evil  heart.  I  certainly  felt  an  earnest  desire 
after  righteousness ;  but  my  religion,  I  soon  per- 
ceived, was  too  much  characterised  by  fits  and 
starts,  too  much  influenced  by  circumstances  and 
occasions.  It  was  too  much  a  religion  of  emotions 
and  feelings ;  and  in  the  brief  space  of  a  single 
day  there  were  intcrA^als  of  negligence  and  apathy, 
when  worldly  avocations  darkened  my  mind ; 
and  when  the  hour  of  prayer  arrived,  the  burden 
of  my  sins  bore  heavily  on  my  heart. 

"  The  most  striking  instance  of  the  revcalment  of 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  39 

mj'self,  in  all  ray  spiritual  destitution,  occurred  some 
months  after  my  conversion.  For  some  time  there 
had  been  a  fearful  conflict  going  on — desires  to  do 
the  will  of  God,  on  the  one  part,  and  yet  a  total 
incapacity  to  make  good  my  intentions.  I  perceived 
an  increasing  helplessness — a  powerlessness  and  in- 
ability to  maintain  a  single  resolution.  The  family 
devotions  I  had  instituted  I  felt  absolutely  inade- 
quate to  perform.  My  prayers  were  without  fer- 
vency. I  could  scarce  find  language  for  the  most 
ordinary  sentiment,  and  I  was  utterly  ashamed  and 
confounded  at  myself.  The  profession  of  religion 
in  such  circumstances  seemed  impossible,  and  I  was 
dispirited  at  the  prospect  of  attending  my  class, 
where  I  could  only  expose  the  poverty  and  listless- 
ness  of  my  mind.  I  was  ready  to  despair,  and  give 
up  the  whole.  The  secret  of  it  all  was  not  then 
known  to  me.  I  had  yet  to  learn  a  most  important 
lesson,  which  was,  that  I  had  been  hitherto  trusting 
to  my  own  strength,  and  had  not  recollected  how, 
without  the  aid  of  God's  Holy  Spirit,  I  could  not 
perform  one  duty  aright. 

"  For  weeks — I  may  say  for  months — it  continued 
thus.  Various  temptations  came  in  my  way,  and  I 
felt  that  I  had  repeatedly  sinned  against  God.  My 
soul  became  darker  and  darker,  and  in  deep  trouble 
I  groaned  and  wept  over  my  sad  condition.  Doubts 
assailed  mo  as  to  the  truth  of  all ;  but  these  I  re- 
pelled with  amazement  and  horror.  There  was 
still  an  inward  sincerity  of  heart  in  seeking  after 


40  CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AKD  L'SEFULNESS. 

God ;  and  liour  after  hour,  on  my  bended  knees, 
did  I  seek  his  help,  but  without  any  perceptible 
progress  in  inward  holiness  or  spiritual  enlighten- 
ment. 

"  The  climax  of  this  condition  was  attained  on  a 
Sunday  night.  I  had  spent  part  of  the  Sabbath 
carelessly,  and  my  conscience  was  heavily  laden 
with  sin.  My  household  had  retired  to  rest,  and  I 
was  left  alone.  I  was  disposed  to  follow  their 
example,  hut  I  was  not  prepared  to  commit  myself 
in  prayer  to  God.  I  felt  no  inclination  for  it ;  but 
to  go  to  bed  without  prayer  was  impossible.  I 
therefore  sat  down  and  tried  to  read.  However, 
my  thoughts  would  not  permit  me  to  go  on  with 
the  book,  and  I  was  compelled  to  desist.  I  was  now 
sitting  in  what  I  may  term  a  sullen  moodiness. 
There  was  a  heavy  weight  on  my  heart,  and  a 
terrible  darkness  began  to  throw  its  shadows  around 
me.  I  began  to  be  alarmed  at  my  position ;  I  was 
staggered  at  my  callousness  and  insensibility.  My 
convictions  I  retained  in  full  force,  but  I  felt  that  I 
was  without  religion.  God  seemed  at  an  infinite 
distance.  An  abyss  of  darkness  intervened  between 
him  and  my  soul.  The  thought  that  I  was  forsaken 
by  the  Spirit  of  God,  and  abandoned  to  a  reprobate 
heart,  took  possession  of  my  mind ;  and,  looking  to 
the  future,  I  saw  how  different  were  now  my  hopes 
and  prospects.  I  lay  full  length  on  the  hearth-rug, 
in  absolute  despair.  At  length  I  tried  to  pray,  but 
my  lips  refused  their  office :  pray  I  could  not.     I 


CHRISTIAl^  EXPERIEXCE  AND  USEFULNESS.         '41 

felt  that  I  had  now  a  real  foretaste  of  hell,  for  I 
was  without  God  and  without  hope.  Hours  rolled 
away,  and  I  loathed  myself,  and  abhorred  the  pic- 
ture of  my  own  heart  which  I  now  beheld.  I  made 
renewed  efforts  at  prayer,  and  determined  that,  if 
I  could  express  no  more,  I  would  repeat  the  pub- 
lican's petition,  '  God  be  merciful  to  me,  a  sinner.' 
I  did  so.  Though  it  was  the  depth  of  winter,  the 
morning's  light  broke  in  whilst  I  was  still  engaged 
in  fervent  supplication.  I  acknowledged  my  guilt ; 
I  pleaded  the  blood  of  Christ  shed  for  me  ;  I  sued 
for  mercy ;  but  no  consolation  was  afforded,  and, 
quite  exhausted,  I  retired  to  bed.  There  I  renewed 
my  prayer,  and  while  so  doing  I  fell  asleep.  Shortly 
after,  I  awoke,  and,  kneeling  by  my  bed-side,  I  be- 
sought the  Lord  for  a  ray  of  heavenly  light.  Still 
without  a  satisfactory  sense  of  God's  love,  I  rested 
again  for  a  short  time ;  and,  on  awaking,  a  flood  of 
holy  joy  and  peace  burst  in.  God  was  present  to 
my  soul,  and  his  love  was  manifest  to  a  degree  more 
rapturous  than  I  had  ever  before  experienced.  I 
praised,  I  adored,  I  blessed  my  Redeemer. 

"  From  this  time  I  began  to  understand  more 
fully,  or  rather  it  was  now  that  I  began  to  under- 
stand at  all,  the  nature  of  the  human  heart  in  its 
unregenerate  state,  and  what  are  the  glorious 
changes  to  be  expected  from  redeeming  grace.  I 
perceived  what  a  vitally  important  part  in  the  work 
of  redemption  pertains  to  the  Holy  Spirit,  and  that 
every  change,  and  each  step  in  the  way  of  holiness, 


42  CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS. 

is  effected  by  his  agency ;  and  this,  too,  in  com- 
phance  with  an  earnest  desire,  and  in  answer  to 
fervent  prayer.  A  most  abhorrent  picture  of  my- 
self had  been  set  before  me,  and  I  felt  that  it  was 
just  what  I  should  be  were  the  Spirit  of  God  ivith- 
drawn.  Hence  there  was  nothing  for  self-righteous- 
ness to  build  upon,  and  all  pride  was  utterly  con- 
founded. The  glory  of  my  salvation  belonged  only 
to  the  Redeemer — to  God  manifest  in  Christ  Jesus ; 
and  every  grace  was  furnished  through  him,  and 
imparted  by  the  Spirit  of  Grace.  To  me  no- 
thing remained  but  humihty,  and  prayer,  and 
praise.  Self  was  prostrate ;  Christ  was  magnified. 
Hitherto  I  had  believed  in  Christ,  but  now  I  began 
to  see  what  faith  in  Christ  really  meant.  It  was 
no  lono-er  the  mere  belief  of  assent,  but  the  behef 
of  trust ;  no  longer  a  dead,  but  a  living  and  work- 
ing faith.  I  had  now  no  remote  nor  indefinite 
object  to  attain,  but  an  immediate  advantage  to 
pursue.  Glorious  as  was  the  thought  of  an  ulti- 
mate salvation,  it  could  scarce  afford  an  impulse  so 
quickening  as  the  conviction  that  holiness  of  heart 
and  the  peace  of  God  might  be  obtained  in  this 
life,  and  an  absolute  change  of  being  be  even  now 
effected.  Here  was  scope  enough  for  all  diligence, 
and  for  the  fervency  of  prayer. 

"  For  clearness  I  shall  repeat  the  knowledge  I 
now  gained.  I  had  fancied  that  in  the  change 
wrought  upon  me  at  my  conversion,  the  vile  con- 
dition of  my  heart  would  have   been   altogether 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  43 

amended  and  rectified ;  and  I  anticipated  nothing 
but  purity  of  thought  and  conformity  to  God. 
Disappointed  in  this,  I  began  to  doubt  if  the 
change  I  had  undergone  were  sufficient,  and  when 
I  found  that  sin  had  still  dominion  over  me,  I  was 
almost  tempted  to  mistrust  the  power  assigned  to 
rehgion.  But  when  I  knew  my  heart  better,  I 
perceived  that  I  had  never  been  truly  self-abased, 
nor  brought  into  a  subjection  to  God  sufficiently 
lowly.  But  now  that  I  knew  that  the  very  essence 
of  my  nature  was  sin  in  God's  sight,  in  that  very 
discovery  there  was  laid  the  foundation  for  building 
a  holy  temple  unto  God.  I  now  felt  an  enmity  to 
the  flesh  which  warred  against  the  spirit,  and  I 
could  now  with  delight  and  comfort  seek  the  aid 
of  God  in  the  contest.  The  light  of  his  counte- 
nance shone  upon  me;  his  Word  grew  precious 
to  me ;  and  with  the  knowledge  that  his  Spirit 
helpeth  our  infirmities,  I  trust  to  set  about  the 
work  of  ordering  all  things  rightly  in  his  sight 
more  seriously  than  ever." 

The  grace  which  he  coveted  was  granted,  and 
the  career  of  Mr  Williams  was  henceforth  marked 
by  warm  and  consistent  piety.  In  his  profession 
more  popular  than  ever,  and,  owing  to  his  humane 
and  disinterested  exertions,  in  great  request  among 
the  poor,  he  often  seized  the  opportunity  to  urge 
on  their  attention  the  interests  of  their  never-dying 
souls.  His  faithful  counsels  and  exhortations  were 
frequently  crowned  with  success ;  and  long  before 


44         CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS. 

he  liad  thoiio'hts  of  laborino-  abroad,  he  had  be- 
come  a  medical  missionary  at  home.  In  the  year 
when  Burslem  was  visited  by  cholera,  the  success 
of  his  treatment  entailed  on  him  an  enormous  pres- 
sure of  employment ;  but,  even  amidst  all  the  toil 
and  hurry  of  that  anxious  season,  he  found  time  to 
pray  with  the  sick,  and  to  point  them  to  the  Lamb 
of  God  who  taketh  away  the  sins  of  the  world.  In 
his  manner  there  was  something  very  softening  and 
assuring,  as  well  as  very  impressive ;  and  in  re- 
peated instances  he  had  reason  to  hope  that  his 
"  labor  was  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord."  Several  de- 
parted declaring  that  their  only  confidence  was  in 
the  merits  and  mediation  of  that  Saviour  to  whom 
he  had  directed  their  dying  eye ;  and  in  the 
memory  of  many  of  his  patients  he  still  lives  as  the 
good  physician  who  strove  so  earnestly  for  the  cure 
of  "  all  their  diseases." 

One  field  of  his  usefulness  must  not  be  forgotten. 
He  was  in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  barracks  at 
Burslem,  and  distributing  tracts  to  the  soldiers. 
In  two  instances,  at  least,  he  succeeded  in  re- 
awakening religious  impressions;  and  the  men 
whom  he  then  induced  to  join  the  Wesleyan 
Society  still  maintain  their  steadfastness,  With 
one  of  them,  after  he  left  Burslem,  Mr  "Williams 
kept  up  an  aftectionate  correspondence;  and  we 
may  transcribe  a  few  sentences  from  the  first  of 
his  letters : — 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  45 

"  BuRSLEM,  April  26,  1850. 

..."  Remember,  nij  brother,  that  it  is  a 
matter  of  very  httle  consequence  what  form  om' 
trials  take.  To  the  ungodly,  afflictions  are  indeed 
vexations;  but  although  to  the  Christian  they  are 
grievous,  yet  they  are  cheerfully  to  be  submitted 
to,  rejoicing  that  we  are  counted  worthy  to  suffer 
as  sons,  and  that  our  heavenly  Father  chasteneth 
us  for  our  profit.  The  Lord  give  us  more  faith 
and  love !  Seek,  my  dear  brother,  ever  to  have 
fellowship  with  God  the  Father  and  God  the  Son 
in  the  Spirit,  and  let  the  thought  of  such  amazing 
privilege  raise  and  ennoble  your  affections,  whilst 
you  grow  indifferent  more  and  more  to  worldly 
hopes  and  worldly  fears.  Set  all  your  affections 
on  things  above,  and  declare  in  the  face  of  all  men 
that  here  you  are  but  a  pilgrim  and  sojourner,  as 
were  all  your  fathers  in  the  faith  before  you. 
When  you  find  your  heart  oppressed,  bethink  you 
of  the  glorious  reward  Christ  will  give  to  all  his 
tempted  but  faithful  followers,  Avho  shall  all  come 
to  the  place  of  their  rest  through  much  tribula- 
tion. 

"  The  Lord  bless  you,  my  dear  brother.  You 
must  endeavour  to  beat  up  recruits  and  enlist  them 
into  the  service  of  the  great  and  glorious  King  of 
kings,  the  blessed  and  only  Potentate.  Shew 
every  man  who  doubts  your  being  appointed  on 
such  service  the  sign-manual  of  your  Captain  him- 
seK, — '  The  Spirit  and  the  Bride  say.  Come ;  and 


46  CHRISTIAN  EXPEKIEKCB  AND  USEFULNESS. 

let  him  that  Jieareth  say,  Come.'  You  have  heard 
and  received  the  words  of  eternal  hf "e :  therefore 
take  up  your  cross,  follow  your  crucified  Master, 
and  share  his  reproach  and  sufferings. 

"  From  your  sincerely  affectionate  brother  in 
the  Lord,  i^-^   "  E.  Williams," 

On  the  principle  indicated  in  the  close  of  this 
letter  Mr  Williams  was  already  acting.  He 
opened  rooms  in  several  neglected  districts  of  the 
town,  and  as  many  as  could  be  induced  to  attend 
he  exhorted  with  much  power  and  tenderness  to 
flee  from  the  wrath  to  come.  A  marked  impres- 
sion was  often  produced ;  and  an  eye-witness 
informs  us  that  from  these  labors  "  a  few  of  the 
most  useful  men  have  been  raised  up,  and  are 
following  his  way  of  kmdness  to  the  souls  and 
bodies  of  their  neighbours." 

Mr  Williams  was  thus  gradually  drawn  into  the 
work  of  a  home  missionary.  Ho  enjoyed  it  ex- 
ceedingly. It  Avas  an  outlet  for  all  the  energies  of 
his  eager  and  benevolent  nature,  and  the  impres- 
sion frequently  produced  was  a  delightful  recom- 
pence,  and  cheered  him  to  proceed.  He  began  to 
feel  that  in  such  labors  he  would  fain  "  spend  and 
be  spent ;"  and  belonging  to  a  community  in  which 
evangelistic  effort  has  been  an  almost  invariable 
result  from  personal  piety,  it  is  not  wonderful  that 
his  thoughts  bciran  to  be  directed  towards  the 
missionary  enterprise.     Just  as  his  thorough-going 


CHRISTIAN  EXPERIENCE  AND  USEFULNESS.  47 

enthusiasm  at  a  former  period  had  forced  its  way 
from  the  workshop  to  the  college,  so  now  tho 
same  fervor,  intensified  and  consecrated,  was 
urging  him  out  into  the  field  of  the  world ;  and, 
although  in  a  quarter  little  expected,  a  door  was 
about  to  open. 


CHAPTEE  IV. 


Cii' 


Shine,  luiglity  God,  ou  Britain  shine, 

Witli  beams  of  heavenly  grace ; 
Reveal  thy  power  through  all  our  coasts. 

And  shew  thy  Kiuiling  face. 

When  shall  thy  name,  from  shore  to  shore, 

Sound  all  tlie  earth  abroad, 
And  distant  nations  know  and  love 

Their  Saviour  and  their  God  1 

Psalm  Ixvii.  1-3. —  Watts. 


If  the  love  of  Christ,  above  everything  else,  does  not  constrain  us 
to  engage  in  the  missionary  work,  surely,  instead  of  finding  happi- 
ness, of  all  persons  we  shall  be  the  most  miserable.— (ro?-cZon.  Hall. 


D 


There  was  a  Christian  officer  of  the  British  Navy, 
whose  attention  had  been  especially  directed  to  the 
South  American  Indians.  He  was  peculiarly  pre- 
possessed in  favor  of  the  Araucanian  tribes  in 
Bolivia  and  La  Plata,  and  at  great  personal  hazard 
he  undertook  repeated  journeys  of  exploration 
among  them.  His  object  was  to  discover  an  open- 
ing for  the  introduction  of  the  gospel;  but  he 
found  them  so  suspicious  of  strangers,  and  on 
every  side  so  hemmed  in  by  Spanish  Popery,  that 
he  was  shut  up  to  the  conclusion  that  little  could 
be  effected  till  the  local  governments  became  more 
tolerant,  and  a  better  understanding  was  estab- 
lished betwixt  the  independent  Indians  and  their 
white  neighbours. 

However,  one  region  appeared  more  practicable. 
This  was  the  extreme  south  of  the  American  main- 
land. There  were  no  Romish  priests  in  Patagonia, 
and  scarcely  any  commencement  of  European  set- 
tlements. The  Patagonians  were  a  race  of  good 
capacity;  and  should  the  trutb  once  find  a  lodg. 


52  THE  MISSION. 

ment  amongst  them,  it  was  hoped  that  it  might  be 
thence  transmitted  to  the  northward,  without  need- 
ing to  cross  the  barrier  which  Popery  had  thrown 
around  the  coast. 

Full  of  his  benevolent  project,  Captain  Gardiner 
came  to  England.  He  succeeded  in  indoctrinating 
with  his  views  a  few  friends,  and  inspired  them 
with  a  measure  of  his  own  enthusiasm.  So  intent 
was  he  on  the  execution  of  his  plan,  and  so  secure 
of  its  ultimate  success,  that  he  was  willing  to  de- 
vote to  it  not  only  his  life  and  his  property,  but  he 
proposed  to  take  with  him  his  wife  and  family,  and 
estabhsh  his  future  home  in  Patagonia. 

Meanwhile,  a  small  committee  was  formed  at 
Brighton,  with  Sir  Thomas  Blomefield  as  the 
treasurer;  and  in  December  1844,  Captain  Gar- 
diner, accompanied  by  Mr  Hunt,  a  missionary 
catechist,  set  sail  for  Cape  Gregory.  But  the 
experiment  failed.  The  inveterate  thieving  pro- 
pensities of  the  natives,  and  the  daily  increasing 
risk  of  violence,  rendered  a  longer  sojourn  on  shore 
impossible ;  and  after  a  month  of  anxiety  and  dan- 
ger, the  Captain  and  his  companion  were  glad  to 
take  refuge  on  ship-board,  and  return  to  England. 

What  he  had  experienced  at  Cape  Gregory, 
convinced  Captain  Gardiner  that  it  would  not  be 
safe  for  any  missionary  party  to  put  itself  entirely 
in  the  power  of  the  natives.  And,  therefore,  he 
proposed  a  scheme  which  he  hoped  would  secure 
them  in  case  of  danger.     He  recommended  that  a 


THE  MISSION.  OO 

decked  boat  should  be  provided,  into  which  the 
missionaries  might  retreat  when  needful;  and,  as 
farther  researches  had  led  him  to  prefer  Tierra  del 
Fuego  to  the  Patagonian  mainland,  in  this  vessel 
they  would  be  able  to  follow,  from  island  to  island, 
the  migrations  of  the  restless  inhabitants. 

Early  in  1848  a  trial  was  made ;  but  so  imper- 
fect were  the  means  at  the  disposal  of  Captain 
Gardiner,  that  he  found  it  impossible  to  persevere. 
Accordingly,  he  again  returned  to  England,  nowise 
daunted  by  his  repeated  disappointments,  and  con- 
fident of  triumph  could  he  only  command  the 
requisite  appliances.  But  two  apparent  failures 
were  trying  to  the  zeal  of  his  most  sanguine  sup- 
porters, and  the  mission  Avas  not  of  that  magni- 
ficent kind  which  lays  hold  of  romantic  sympathies. 
There  was  little  attraction  in  a  few  dim  and  oozy 
islets  away  at  the  world's  end ;  and,  to  many,  the 
very  name  of  a  "Patagonian"  mission  suggested  a 
sort  of  pious  Quixotism.  Besides,  it  was  not  un- 
fairly argued.  Why  waste  the  Church's  resources 
on  a  handful  of  savages,  when  the  millions  of  India 
and  China  have  such  a  prepollent  claim  ? 

But  the  South  American  Indians  had  seized  the 
imagination  and  the  heart  of  Captain  Gardiner, 
and  he  would  allow  his  friends  no  rest  till  they 
gave  him  a  fair  and  final  opportunity.  Far  away 
as  Fuegia  was,  and  few  as  were  its  hungry  bar- 
barians, he  could  plead  their  relative  importance. 
Guiana  excepted,  of  all  that  mighty  continent  no 


54  THK  .MISSION. 

other  spot  was  accessible  to  Protestant  missions. 
It  was  the  Gibraltar  of  the  South  Pacific,  and  it 
was  of  no  small  consequence  to  our  mariners  to 
people  with  friendly  occupants  the  Straits  of 
Magellan  and  the  coasts  in  the  rear  of  Cape  Horn. 
Above  all,  it  was  the  only  avenue  attainable  to  the 
vast  tribes  of  the  interior — the  tenants  of  the 
Andes,  and  the  fierce  nomads  of  the  Pampas ;  and 
as  Popery  had  closed  the  main  gates  against  the 
gospel,  it  was  of  paramount  urgency  to  seize  and 
keep  open  this  postern. 

The  representations  of  this  heroic  evangelist 
again  produced  their  impression,  and  his  own  self- 
devotion  was  more  affecting  than  any  argument. 
He  put  Ills  life  into  the  venture ;  others  gave 
their  money ;  one  lady  contributed  a  thousand 
pounds;  a  neAV  committee  was  constructed;  meet- 
ings were  held ;  circulars  were  issued.  Two 
launches,  twenty-six  feet  long,  were  built,  the  one 
as  a  floating  mission-house,  the  other  as  a  store- 
ship  and  magazine,  with  two  small  boats  as  tenders. 
An  advertisement  was  inserted  in  the  rehgious 
newspapers  inviting  catecliists  to  join  the  expedi- 
tion ;  and  for  the  manning  of  the  boats,  a  few  suit- 
able seamen  were  selected.* 

*  A  full  account  of  these  proceedirigs  will  be  found  in  the  "  Nar- 
rative of  Missionary  Effort  in  South  America,"  by  the  Rev.  George 
Pakenham  Despard,  B.A.  For  many  interesting  details  the  editor 
is  also  indebted  to  an  obliging  communication  from  Archibald 
Tucker  Ritchie,  Esq.,  of  Liverpool,  Mr  Pakeuham's  able  and  ardent 
predecessor  in  the  Secretariat  of  the  Patasonian  Missionary  Society. 


THE  MISSION.  55 

It  was  to  this  advertisement  that  tlie  eye  of 
]\Ir  AVilUams  was  providentially  directed,  and  he 
answered  it  in  the  following  letter  addressed  to 
Captain  Gardiner : — 

"  BuRSLEM,  May  17,  1850. 

"  Sir, — Having  observed  in  the  Watclnman  of 
the  current  week  an  advertisement  for  a  lay  mis- 
sionary to  Tierra  del  Fuego,  I  beg  leave  to  request 
farther  particulars  in  reference  to  the  mission,  and 
to  be  furnished  with  specific  information  as  to  the 
qualifications  required  in  the  individual  presenting 
himself. 

"  The  advertisement  has  struck  me  as  present- 
ing a  singular  opportunity  of  realising  hopes 
which  have  been  long  indulged, — namely,  of  devot- 
ing my  whole  life  and  services  to  the  cause  of  God. 
AYere  I  to  engage  in  such  a  duty,  it  would  not  be 
because  of  any  necessity  to  seek  a  livelihood,  as  I 
am  already  provided  with  a  profession,  and  in  the 
enjoyment  of  an  income  therefrom  adequate  to  my 
necessities  and  wishes.  Indeed,  if  I  sought  for  an 
engagement  in  connexion  with  such  an  arduous 
enterprise,  I  should  do  it  with  a  full  consciousness 
of  its  requiring  a  sacrifice  of  all  worldly  and  tem- 
poral good,  sincerely  reckoning  all  such  loss  to  be 
gain,  and,  I  hope,  ready  also  to  put  even  life  in 
jeopardy  that  I  might  serve  Christ,  and  be  in  his 
hand  an  instrument,  however  humble,  to  adA-ance 
his  dominion. 


56  THE  MISSION. 

"  I  Avill  just  state  a  few  particulars  concerning 
myself: — 

"  I  am,  I  humbly  trust,  a  converted  man,  having 
received  the  grace  of  God  which  bringeth  salvation, 
little  more  than  tnrce  years, — previous  to  whicli  I 
had  been  a  sceptic  and  deist. 

"  I  belong  to  the  Wesleyan  Methodist  commu- 
nion, and  am  a  local  preacher  and  class  leader. 
From  the  time  of  my  conversion,  and  with  an 
ardent  desire  to  promulgate  the  truths  which  so 
deeply  aifected  my  own  heart,  I  have  been  acting 
on  the  principle  of  a  home  missionary,  convening 
the  poor  together,  and  exhorting  them  to  receive 
Christ ;  and  God  has  acknowledged  and  blessed 
my  labors  to  the  conversion  of  some,  if  not  many, 
souls. 

"  My  profession  is  that  of  surgeon,  which  I 
have  been  practising  in  this  town  with,  I  believe, 
credit,  and  the  esteem  of  my  fellow-townsmen.  I 
am  single,  and  just  arrived  at  my  thirty-third 
year.  I  may  add  that  I  have  been  in  practice  on 
my  own  account  for  nearly  five  years." 

This  letter  was  favorably  received.  The  com- 
mittee satisfied  itself  as  to  Mr  Williams's  personal 
worth  and  general  qualifications ;  and,  having 
passed  satisfactorily  an  examination  in  theology, 
he  was  appointed,  along  with  Mr  Maidment,  a  cate- 
chist  in  the  Fuegian  Mission. 

In  taking  this  step,  Mr  Williams  relinquished  a 


THE  MISSION.  57 

good  income,  and  postponed  for  a  long  period 
some  cherished  prospects.  Nor  was  it  a  slight 
trial  to  his  tender  and  affectionate  spirit  to  part 
with  so  many  loved  friends  and  relatives.  But 
happily,  after  his  services  were  accepted,  so  short 
a  period  elapsed  till  he  found  himself  on  ship-hoard, 
that  there  was  no  time  for  protracted  partings  or 
sorrowful  musings.  Before  he  could  dispose  of  his 
practice,  or  go  to  bid  farewell  to  some  of  his  near- 
est kindred,  the  time  of  embarkation  had  arrived, 
and  it  required  his  best  speed  to  reach  Liverpool 
before  the  saiHng  of  the  Ocean  Queen. 


CHAPTEll  V, 


The  storm  is  changed  into  a  oalm 

At  His  command  and  will ; 
So  that  the  waves,  which  raged  befji.*. 

Now  quiet  are  and  still. 

Then  are  they  glad,  because  at  rest, 

And  quiet  now  they  be  : 
So  to  the  haven  He  them  brings, 

Which  they  desired  to  see. 

Psalm  cvii.  29,  ZQ.—Scotch  Version. 


These  difficulties  are  nothing  in  reality.  He  that  has  an  object  in 
view  so  exciting  as  the  acquisition  of  ability  to  preach  Christ  to  the 
heathen,  plods  along  without  one  thought  of  weariness  or  inconveni- 
ence ;  loving  to  tread  the  rough  furrows,  because  he  sees  them  strewn 
with  the  promise  of  many  a  sheaf. — Rev,  William  Arthur. 


The  partings  were  mostly  over  beforehand,  and 
the  tranquillity  and  content  of  its  autumn  were 
filling  the  air  of  England  on  the  day  when  the 
pilgrims  left  it.  And  the  peace  of  God  was  keep- 
ing their  minds.  Mr  Ritchie,  the  early  and  ardent 
promoter  of  the  mission,  and  a  few  other  friends, 
accompanied  them  to  the  ship,  and,  from  the  cheer- 
fulness of  the  voyagers,  augured  the  best  for  the 
success  of  their  expedition.  They  considered  their 
preparations  complete,  and  with  hearts  strong  and 
hopeful,  they  bore  away  down  the  Mersey.* 

*  From  Mr  Ritchie's  communication,  already  mentioned,  we  may- 
give  the  following  particulars  of  the  last  hour  at  Liverpool.  Captain 
Gardiner  had  not  yet  reached  the  vessel,  which  was  already  warping 
out  of  dock  :  "  I  endeavoured,  however,  to  improve  the  precious  mo- 
ments by  carrying  on  a  conversation  from  the  wharf  with  our  friends 
on  the  poop-deck,  who  were  dressed  in  their  sea-going  garbs,  and  pro- 
tected from  a  hot  September  sun  by  broad-brimmed  '  sombreros.'  They 
seemed  full  of  hope,  and  animated  by  a  high  and  holy  zeal  for  the  great 
cause  on  which  they  were  about  to  proceed  ;  and,  judging  from  their 
healthful  animated  looks,  they  were  as  well  adapted  as  any  men  ever 


62  THE  VOYAGE. 

During  the  voyage,  as  well  as  afterwards  in 
the  place  of  his  destination,  Mr  Williams  kept  a 
copious  journal.  This  companion  of  his  wander- 
ings, and  confidant  of  all  his  musings,  has  survived 
many  perils,  and  been  sent  home  to  its  author's 
family.  From  its  daily  records  we  gather  the 
following  account  of  the  voyage  : — 

"  Saturday,  September  7, 1850. — Came  on  board 
the  Ocean  Queen  at  eleven  a.m.  At  noon  hauled 
out  of  the  Brunswick  Dock  Basin,  and  taken  in  tow 
by  steam-tng. 

"  Fairly  on  board  and  standing  out  for  the  wide 
ocean,  how  varied  were  the  emotions  felt !  But  the 
one  above  all  others  was  a  sense  of  joy  at  the  cer- 


were  for  tlie  fatigues  and  privations  which  stared  them  in  the  face." 
"  When  Captain  Gardiner  aiTived,  I  particularly  rememher  asking  him, 
with  that  frankness  which  became  our  intimacy,  for  how  long  a  period 
he  considered  the  provisions  he  was  taking  would  serve  the  party  ;  to 
which  he  replied,  '  About  six  months  after  arrival,  even  allowing 
we  catch  no  fish  nor  kill  any  game.'  I  expressed  my  re,£;ret  that  he 
had  not  taken  a  twelvemonth's  provision  at  once,  especially  when  he 
was  aware  of  the  difficulty,  if  not  impracticability,  of  hereafter  landing 
any  at  the  mission, — owners  not  wishing  to  allow  their  vessels  to 
deflect  from  their  course,  to  touch  at  so  dangerous  a  coast  as  Tierra 
del  Fuego.  On  this  he  gave  me  explanations, — based  on  the  state  of 
the  funds  of  the  Mission,  the  certainty  of  damage  by  wet  and  damj), 
and  the  exposure  to  robl)ery  by  the  natives, — which,  no  doubt,  were 
perfectly  satisfactory  to  himself,  and  must  also  have  been  so  to  me, 
for  I  thouglit  little  further  oa  the  subject.  Shortly  afterwards, 
about  noon,  the  Ocean  Queen  was  warped  through  the  gates,  and, 
following  her  tug-stcamcr,  swam  nobly  down  the  vassal  river,  amid 
cheers  from  tlie  pier-head,  much  augmented  by  the  numerous  friends 
of  the  San  Francisco  nnij;i-ant.s,  and  tlie  response  from  on  board,  un- 
til ntlonc'tli  sho  was;  h.'^t  in  the  haze." 


THE  VOYAGE.  b^ 

taiiity  of  now  being  actually  engaged  in  the  great 
work  of  making  known  the  Saviour  of  the  world, 
and  that,  too,  to  a  poor  benighted  people — a  race 
of  savages. 

"  JSTow  for  the  first  time  I  saw  those  who  were 
to  be  my  companions  in  the  work  of  faith.  These 
I  found  (besides  Captain  Gardiner)  consisted  of  my 
fellow-catechist  Mr  Maidment,  Joseph  Erwin,  ship- 
carpenter,  and  our  three  boatmen  from  Mouseholc, 
near  Penzance, — John  Badcock,  John  Bryant,  John 
Pearce. 

"  The  vessel  is  bound  for  San  Francisco,  Cal'- 
fornia,  being  568  tons  burden,  commanded  by 
Captain  H.  S.  Cooper,  and  carrying,  besides  our 
own  party,  a  lady  and  gentleman  from  Liverpool, 
with  their  children  and  two  servants,  and  four 
German  Jews. 

'•'  Sunday,  September  8. — Captain  Gardiner  con- 
ducted services  in  the  cabin,  morning  and  night ; 
but  I  could  not  venture  to  be  present, — as  yet  un- 
able to  bear  the  motion  below. 

"I  have  much  enjoyed  the  day,  and  felt  much 
of  the  goodness  of  God  whilst  pondering  on  my 
situation.  Ilowevei',  I  can  scarcely  realise  the 
actuality  of  my  position  and  this  novel  change  so 
suddenly  brought  about. — My  poor  dear  friends ! 

"  Thursday,  September  12. — I  have  now  had  time 
to  see  something  of  my  associates.  The  more  I  see 
of  Captain  Allen  Gardiner,  the  more  I  admire  his 
character.     Day  by  day  he  opens  up  before  nic  in 


64  THE  VOYAGE. 

some  new  and  pleasing  light.  I  am  sure  he  will 
gain  not  only  on  my  esteem,  but  also  on  my  aft'ec- 
tions.  Every  morning  he  reads  a  chapter  and  ex- 
pounds it,  and  then  prays.  In  the  evening  I  or  my 
fellow-catechist  read  the  Scriptures  and  pray.  I 
am  greatly  pleased  and  derive  much  edification 
from  the  enlightened  and  truly  spiritual  character 
of  the  Captain's  observations  on  the  Scriptures,  and 
the  unction  which  accompanies  his  prayers. 

"  One  of  our  boatmen,  John  Pearce,  is  ill  with 
continued  fever,  contracted  before  he  left  home, 
where  fever  was  prevailing.  He  felt  indisposed  for 
a  day  or  two  before  he  came  on  board.  May  God 
preserve  him  to  us,  and  enable  me  to  act  judiciously 
in  the  treatment  of  his  case ! 

"  Tuesday,  September  17. — Lat.  39°  52',  long. 
18°  8^  Wind  directly  aft;  sea  very  smooth; 
weather  exceedingly  fair  and  quite  warm,  so  that 
we  need  only  light  clothing.  The  nights,  too,  are 
very  beautiful.  As  things  now  are,  a  sea  life  is 
really  very  delightful.  We  expect  to  be  off  Madeii-a 
in  a  day  or  two,  and  have  already  a  foretaste  of 
its  balm-breathing  atmosphere  and  sunny  clime. 

"  Our  boatman,  John  Pearce,  is  happily  much 
better ;  and  now,  thank  God,  there  is  every  hope 
of  his  speedy  recovery.  And  what  is  very  pleasing, 
there  is  ^no  appearance  of  the  fever  spreading  tu 
any  others  on  board. 

"  We  have  been  now  ten  days  at  sea.  I  begin 
to  realise  the  fact  without  so  much  maziness  and 


THK  VOYAGE.  65 

wonder  as  I  felt  at  first.  The  cliangc  from  iny 
accustomed  avocations  to  a  voyage  for  a  distant 
land  was  so  abrupt  and  sudden,  that  it  was  impos- 
sible not  to  feel  occasionally  startled  at  tlie  newness 
of  my  position.  Being  unable,  owing  to  the  short- 
ness of  time,  to  dispose  of  my  practice,  I  was  en- 
gaged up  to  the  day  of  my  leaving  Burslem,  with- 
out having  so  much  as  the  opportunity  of  visiting 
absent  friends,  from  whom  I  had  already  been 
separated  for  years  past. 

"  When  I  reflect  on  the  circumstances  with 
v.'hich  I  had  to  contend  in  entering  on  this  engage- 
ment, I  feel  how  great  a  cause  I  have  for  thankful- 
ness to  the  grace  of  God  which  has  sustained  me, 
and  enabled  me  to  keep  faithful  to  my  purpose. 
Scarcely  four  months  elapsed  between  my  first 
hearing  of  the  Patagonian  Missions  and  my  em- 
barkation. Settled  in  practice  upwards  of  five  years, 
Avith  a  large  connexion,  many  friends,  and  some 
strong  ties,  to  dissever  myself  from  long-formed 
associations,  and  to  settle  all  my  affairs  in  so  short 
a  time,  presented  difliculties  that  at  times  seemed 
insuperable.  However,  from  the  moment  of  pledg- 
ing myself  to  the  work,  I  had  a  firm  confidence 
that  I  should  be  able  to  overcome  every  obstacle. 
But  when  the  time  of  my  departure  drew  near,  and 
when,  after  every  effort,  my  affairs  were  as  far 
from  settlement  as  ever,  a  fear  for  the  first  time 
crossed  my  mind  as  to  Avhether  it  was  really  God's 
will  that  I  should  go.     One  morning,  I  awoke  with 


66  THE  VOYAGE, 

a  feeling  of  sadness,  which  deepened  upon  me. 
And  yet  I  saw  that  I.  could  never  again  be 
happy  if  anything  prevented  my  going.  I  saw 
that  I  could  never  be  the  same  man,  nor  look 
forward  to  a  career  of  usefulness  equal  to  the 
past,  trifling  as  that  had  been.  This  state  of 
mind  continued  till  the  evening  of  the  second 
day,  when  suddenly  light  shone  in  upon  my 
mind,  and  comfort  and  consolation  filled  my  heart, 
I  saw  that  I  had  been  suffering  from  the  tempter, 
but  now  God  had  restored  his  energizing  grace 
and  strength,  and  I  resolved  that  nothing  short  of 
illness  or  death  should  prevent  my  going  forth  in 
his  name.  My  friends  who  had  greatly  rejoiced 
at  the  momentary  hope  of  my  not  leaving  them, 
had  now  the  sad  disappointment  of  seeing  me  more 
firm  in  my  purpose  than  ever.  I  felt  for  thee,  my 
poor  dear  Annie,  when  I  was  necessitated  to  check 
again  all  thy  rising  hopes  that  thy  brother  would 
not  leave  thee.  The  flush  of  exultation  was  on  thy 
cheek,  the  triumph  of  thy  heart  sparkled  in  thy 
eye,  when  1  was  obliged  again  to  tell  thee,  *  It 
cannot  be.  No  :  I  must  go.  It  is  the  will  of  God. 
Annie,  I  must  go.'  May  God  comfort  the  kindest 
and  most  tender-hearted  of  sisters  that  ever  brother 
was  blessed  with  1  God  comfort  and  sustain  thee, 
Annie ! 

"  I  shall  not  readily  forget  the  evening  of  my 
leaving  Burslem.  Though  sad  to  part  with  so 
many  dear  old  friends,  yet  to  see  such  an  assem- 


THE   VOVACiB.  67 

blage  of  Christian  brethren,  each  with  a  tear  in 
his  eye  and  a  prayer  on  his  lips,  to  wish  me  God 
speed,  was  sweetly  touching  to  my  heart.  I  do  not 
forget  you,  my  beloved  friends.  How  happy  is 
the  thought  that  on  so  many  praying  lips  my 
name  will  often  find  a  place  when  the  Holy  One  of 
Israel  is  sought  in  fervent  devotion  ! 

"  Wednesday,  Sept.  18. — Everything  is  so  agree- 
able, that  at  present  our  voyage  is  like  a  pleasure 
trip.  On  deck,  where  we  remain  for  the  most 
part  of  the  day,  enjoying  the  warm  sunshine  and 
the  fresh  balmy  breeze,  witli  a  clear  sky  and  the 
deep  blue  waters,  with  the  ship  steadily  stealing 
away,  and  all  clean  and  orderly  around  us,  cheer- 
ful countenances  and  pleasing  associates, — there 
seems  scarce  any  thing  awanting  to  contribute  to 
our  enjoyment.  I  have  felt  real  happiness  this 
day.  Nothing  has  occurred  that  could  make  it 
otherwise.  There  has  been  communion  betwixt 
my  soul  and  God  the  whole  day  long.  I  have  liad 
the  Scriptures  in  my  hand,  reading  and  meditating 
the  greater  part  of  the  day ;  and  the  Word  has 
been  applied  by  the  Spirit  of  Truth  with  refreshing 
power  to  my  soul.  I  have  been  drinking  of  the 
river  whose  waters  make  glad  the  city  of  the  living 
God.  Now  thrown  entirely  on  the  Lord,  in  body, 
soul,  and  spirit  given  up  to  God,  seeking  to  draw 
nigher  and  closer  unto  Him  whom  I  love  and  in 
whom  I  am  chosen,  aspiring  after  more  of  the 
precious  influences  of  the  Spirit  of  grace  and  love, 


(38  THE  VOYAGE. 

desiring  to  be  perfected  in  the  knowledge  and  love 
of  Christ,  I  have  this  day  felt  that  God  is  willing 
to  "give  me  far  more  abundantly  than  all  I  can  ask 
or  think.  His  banner  has  been  spread  over  me, 
and  the  presence  of  Christ  fills  my  heart  with  joys 
that  are  unutterable. 

'"'  This  evening  I  commenced  a  class  meeting, 
Erwin  and  the  boatmen  joining  me.  The  Lord 
was  graciously  present  to  bless.  I  was  much 
pleased  with  the  simplicity  and  earnestness  of 
their  experience.  Poor  Erwin,  who  has  not  yet 
found  Christ  as  his  Saviour,  was  much  affected, 
and,  I  believe,  is  not  very  far  from  the  kingdom  of 
God,  May  the  Lord  help  him  speedily  to  step  in 
into  the  glorious  hbcrty  of  the  sons  of  God! 

"  Thursday.  Sept.  19. — I  am  deriving  much 
p-ood  from  witnessino-  the  Christian  character  exem- 
pliticd  so  strikingly  in  the  person  of  our  beloved 
Captain  [Gardiner].  Truly  he  is  a  man  of  God. 
There  is  a  devotedncss  to  God  manifested  by  him 
delightful  to  witness ;  a  fervent  piety  with  great 
simplicity  of  deportment,  a  high  tone  of  exalted 
greatness  of  soul,  with  the  absence  of  all  pride  or 
self-elevation.  His  mind  is  evidently  deeply  im- 
bued with  the  Word  of  Life.  I  sink  utterly  into 
nothingness  by  comparison  with  him.  I  esteem  it 
a  great  privilege  to  have  such  a  living  example  set 
before  me.  Hitherto  I  have  had  to  struggle  on 
unaided  by  man  in  my  efforts  to  gain  the  mastery 
over  an  evil  heart  of  unbelief.     Now  I  feel  I  shall 


THE  VOYAGii.  60 

derive  great  help  and  encouragcraent  from  seeing 
one  far  advanced  in  the  way  of  hohness  exemphfy- 
ing  the  graces  of  the  Christian  character.  He  has 
made  me  a  present  of  two  works  written  by  him 
— Travels  in  Africa,  and  A.  Voice  from  South 
America. 

"  Saturday,  Sept.  21. — Had  our  last  view  of 
Madeira  at  noon,  distant  from  us  about  fifty  miles. 
A  lovely  day, — the  thermometer  in  the  cabin  rang- 
ing above  summer  heat, — in  the  sun  very  hot.  To- 
day I  had  occasion  to  go  to  the  forecastle  to  attend 
on  two  of  the  sailors  who  were  confined  by  sick- 
ness. This  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  talking  to 
the  men,  and  I  had  a  long  conversation  with  them, 
and  endeavoured  to  impress  their  minds,  by  God's 
help,  with  thoughts  concerning  their  own  salvation. 
They  hstened  respectfully.  Since  coming  onboard, 
I  have  been  much  affected  by  feeling  myself  pal- 
pably surrounded  with  wickedness  on  all  hands. 
Happily  the  position  is  quite  novel  ;  for,  although 
I  have  been  ever  moving  among  the  worldly  and 
the  profane,  yet  I  have  been  able  to  retire  from 
amongst  them  into  the'  seclusion  of  my  own  or 
some  other  quiet  home.  But  now  the  harsh  sound 
of  vice  reaches  my  ear  all  the  day  long,  and  I  feel 
I  am  indeed  a  stranger  and  a  pilgrim  here.  I  bless 
the  Lord  that  I  look  not  for  an  abiding  place,  a 
continuing  city  amongst  men,  but  that  I  am  travel- 
ling with  a  consciousness  of  its  being  the  wilder- 
ness, and  looking  forward  to  the  rest  which  God 


70  TUK  VOYAGE. 

hath  prepared  for  his  people.  'Twerc  a  sin  against 
God  to  expect  or  seek  a  rest  here  in  this  world. 
Here  we  must  labour  and  lay  up  our  treasure  with 
God.  Here  we  must  toil  and  patiently  endure  the 
burden  and  heat  of  the  day.  Here  we  must  wage 
our  warfare,  and  fight  the  good  fight  of  faith. 
'  Behold,  God  will  come  with  a  recompence.'  I 
will  look  forward  and  hasten  unto  the  day  of  his 
appearing.  I  bless  and  praise  God  that  I  feel  the 
Lord  most  graciously  helping  me,  strengthening 
me,  enlarging  my  faith,  inspiring  me  with  hope 
and  confidence,  and  giving  me  sensibly  to  feel  the 
tokens  of  his  love.  The  sunshine  of  God  is  in  my 
heart, — it  feels  the  love  of  Christ. 

"  I  do  desire  to  glorify  God.  I  long  to  love  God 
with  my  whole  soul.  I  seek  and  earnestly  desire 
to  have  my  every  thought  directed  to  the  Lord.  I 
truly  wish  for  nothing  the  whole  earth  contains.  I 
ask  for  nothing  but  grace  to  love  God  with  all  my 
heart,  and  mind,  and  soul,  and  strength,  and,  accep- 
ted of  him,  to  be  laid  out  and  be  spent  in  his  ser- 
vice, to  his  honor  and  glory.  With  the  world  I 
have  done, — with  all  its  interests  and  pursuits,  as 
far  as  feeling  more  attachment  to  them  than  as 
things  with  which,  vfhilst  it  pleases  God,  I  am  for 
a  moment  connected.  But  my  treasure  and  my 
heart  are  both  in  heaven.  Grant,  0  Lord,  that  I 
may  truly  love  tlice !  Gold  is  my  heart  toward 
thee  ;  0  give  me  thy  love !  Lord  Jesus,  hear  and 
answer  tliis  my  praycj. ! 


THE  VOYAGE.  71 

"  Ah,  my  dear, — my  beloved  friends,  how  many 
have  been  your  anxious  thoughts  ere  this  !  0 
may  the  Ahnighty  God,  who  blesses  me  with  his 
peace,  and  gives  me  to  taste  the  sweet  consolations 
of  Christ,  bless  you  also,  and  keep  your  hearts 
from  all  doubts  and  tormenting  fears  !  I  am  safe 
from  all  harm  and  secure  from  all  evil  in  his  hands. 
I  wish  I  just  could  tell  each  one  of  jou.  so.  God 
bless  you  all. — The  moment  for  our  meeting  to- 
gether in  prayer  has  just  arrived. 

"  Monday,  Septemher  23. — Yesterday — the  Sab- 
bath, we  had  a  very  delightful  day.  In  the  morning 
Captain  Gardiner  conducted  the  service,  and  read  a 
sermon  ;  in  the  evening  Mr  Maidment.  These  ser- 
vices Avere  held  in  the  cabin,  and  there  was  a  large 
muster  of  the  ship's  company  present,  and  a  pre- 
cious opportunity  was  afforded  for  sowing  the  seed 
of  life.  But  I  fear  the  opportunity  was  somewhat 
lost,  for  the  reason  that  the  discourses  were  not 
suitable  and  adapted  to  the  minds  of  these  poor 
ignorant  men.  I  felt  this  at  the  time,  and  deter- 
mined to  prepare  a  sermon  for  the  next  Sabbath 
evening,  in  dependence  on  Divine  help. 

"  This  evening  I  went  forward  to  the  forecastle 
in  company  with  Mr  Maidment.  We  found  most 
of  the  bailors  present,  nothing  being  doing  on 
deck,  as  there  was  a  perfect  calm.  They  had  just 
concluded  a  very  jovial  song  v,rith  a  boisterous 
chorus;  and  a  party  of  them  were  engaged  with 
cards.     T  treated  them  as  u^Nitly  a'?  possible,  and 


72  THE  VOYAGE. 

as  I  have  had  an  interview  with  many  of  them  indi- 
vidually before,  I  managed  to  work  my  way  pretty 
smoothly.  The  card-players,  however,  were  very 
intent  on  their  game,  and  tried  to  evade  our  notice. 
At  length  I  asked  them  if  they  would  allow  me  to 
pray  with  them,  to  which  they  consented.  I  had 
great  liberty  and  access  to  God,  and  the  men  after- 
wards thanked  me,  and  seemed  to  think  I  had  done 
them  a  kindness.  May  the  Lord  bless  the  effort, 
made  in  his  name,  to  their  good  ! 

"  Wednesday,  October  2.  —  Lat.  13°  bT,  long. 
26°  35'.  Light  winds,  and  very  hot.  All  the 
Jews  ill  with  fever.  Mrs  T likewise  ill.  Ex- 
tracted a  tooth  for  Captain  C.  Now  that  there 
is  absolute  need  of  my  aid,  I  feel  a  high  degree 
of  gratification  that  I  am  able  to  afford  assist- 
ance, and  feel  the  value  of  my  profession  more,  I 
think,  than  I  ever  did.  What  a  pleasure  to  prac- 
tise medicine  irrespective  of  pecuniary  considera- 
tions !  How  much  more  pleasurable  to  do  good 
for  its  own  sake,  and  to  relieve  the  sufferings  of 
our  fellow-creatures,  and  to  have  our  reward  in  the 
pleasure  of  doing  so,  than  to  connect  therewith  the 
gain  of  money  !  Would  circumstances  have  allowed 
it,  I  should  willingly  have  practised  without  mak- 
ing any  charge.  How  often  did  I  regret  that  I 
had  an  expensive  establishment  to  keep  up,  and 
wished  it  was  but  a  cottage,  and  that  I  might  prac- 
tise as  a  poor  man  amongst  the  poor !  I  never 
desired   to   increase  my    connexion   amongst    the 


THE  VOYAGE.  73 

more  respectable ;  for  so  much  unnecessary  for- 
mality was  required  by  them,  and  with  them  I  had 
not  the  same  privilege  of  addressing  them  in  the 
language  of  affectionate  concern,  or  of  offering 
spiritual  advice  to  their  souls.  The  poor  have 
genei-ally  some  consciousness  of  their  spiritual  as 
well  as  temporal  destitution,  and  they  are  more 
frequently  accessible  to  a  kindly  intended  act  of 
Christian  philanthropy.  But  the  rich  and  the 
respectable  feel  that  their  worldly  position  entitles 
them  to  consideration,  and  they  expect  that  defer- 
ence should  be  paid  as  well  to  their  opinions  as  to 
their  rank ;  hence,  they  are  offended  by  any  dis- 
play of  a  disposition  to  teach  and  instruct  them. 
'Thou  wast  altogether  born  in  sin,'  is  their  lan- 
guage, 'and  dost  thou  teach  us?'  In  the  happy 
change  now  presented  to  me  in  prospect,  may  God 
grant  that  I  may  live  unweariedly  employed  in 
doing  good,  and  enjoy  the  sweet  charm  of  a  life 
spent  in  beneficence  to  others,  and  those  others  a 
race  of  beings  who  have  scarcely  ever  felt  the  Sow- 
ings of  human  kindness  toward  them !  O  Jesus, 
blessed  Saviour,  let  these  poor  heathen,  to  whom 
thou  art  sending  us,  taste  of  thy  precious  love,  and 
know  thee  in  the  riches  of  thy  infinite  mercy! 
Darkest  and  most  wretched  of  the  human  race, 
my  precious  Saviour,  it  will  be  a  fit  occasion  to 
serve  thee,  in  displaying  thy  goodness  to  ransom 
vile  man  in  his  utmost  degradation,  and  thy  wil- 
lingness that  not  one   should  perish,  but  that  all 


74 


THE  VOYAGE. 


men  should  be  saved.  Lord  Jesus,  it  is  thy  will 
these  should  behold  a  great  light  shining  forth 
from  th}^  presence  in  their  darkness.  0  let  thy 
Spirit  of  grace  go  in  advance  of  us,  and  dispose 
their  hearts  to  receive  thy  truth ! 

"  Thursday,  October  3.— Bless  God  !  I  feel  the 
Lord  is  good  and  gracious  to  my  soul.  He  is 
drawing  me  by  the  cords  of  his  love.  Jesus  is  be- 
coming more  and  more  pi'ccious  ;  my  he*art  feels 
more  true  interest  and  delio-ht  in  hhn.  I  more 
clearly  feel  now,  what,  for  a  time,  I  failed  to  expe- 
rience, that  even  when  my  heart  would  withdraw 
from  the  Lord,  at  a  time  when  doubts  and  evil 
thoughts  were  suggested— that  then,  as  at  all  other 
times,  Jesus  is  waiting  to  hear  our  cry  for  help. 
When  perplexed  by  a  sense  of  the  evil  of  my 
heart,  struck  with  its  hardness  and  insensibility, 
impressed  with  its  base  ingratitude  and  forgetful- 
ness  of  God,  and  horrified  with  the  vile  thouo-hts 
injected  into  my  mind, — how  often  have  I  kept 
my  eye  fixed  on  my  condition,  until  I  could  scarce 
lift  it  up  to  God,  and  with  a  weak  faith  have  hesi- 
tated to  approach  my  beloved  Lord !  But  now  I 
happily  know  that, — feel  what  I  may  of  the  work- 
ings of  evil  within,  however  strong  the  evidence  of 
my  own  baseness, — so  far  from  keeping  me  from 
applying  to  Jesus,  this  is  the  greater  reason  for 
my  instant  looking  up  to  him  as  'the  Lord  my 
Righteousness.'  I  bless  God  for  a  hveher  trust  in 
the  atonement  of  the  blood  of  Christ,  and   for  a 


THE  VOYAGE.  75 

more  assured  trust  in  Jesus,  as  my  ever-willing, 
ever-able,  and  ever-present  Saviour.  How  does 
my  heart  cleave  to  thee,  my  Lord !'  Assuredly 
whilst  I  have  hold  upon  thee,  my  ransom  and  plea, 
my  surety  and  trust,  my  hope  and  my  joy,  my 
portion  and  my  only  love,  all  is,  all  will  be  well. 

"  Wednesday,  October  23. — Crossed  the  line  at 
about  three  a.m. 

"Friday,  25. — Left  off  smoking  and  taking 
snuff.  Gave  my  tobacco  and  meerschaum  to  Erwin, 
my  canister  of  snuff  to  the  captain." 

The  foregoing  extracts  give  a  pleasing  impres- 
sion of  the  writer.  They  bring  out  his  tender 
affection  for  his  friends,  the  humanity  and  kindli- 
ness of  his  nature,  and  that  delightful  disposition 
which  makes  the  most  of  the  present  and  hopes  the 
best  for  the  future.  They  also  evince  his  habitual 
watchfulness  over  himself,  and  his  firm  faith  in  a 
Divine  sanctifying  agency  ;  and  they  glow  with 
that  adoring  affection  to  the  Saviour  which  is  the 
surest  sign  of  piety,  and  the  richest  source  of  per- 
sonal excellence.  We  think  they  can  scarcely  fail 
to  edify  the  reader  and  endear  the  writer. 

But  amidst  these  records  of  Christian  experience, 
some  may  regard  the  homely  details  of  the  follow- 
ing passage  as  a  dreadful  descent.  We  have  no 
such  feeling.  It  is  in  such  contests  that  the  reality 
of  men's  faith  and  the  value  of  their  "  fi-ames  "  aro 
tested.     And  the  Christianity,  however  rapturous, 


76  THE  VOYAGE. 

which  has  never   renounced   a  besetting   sin,  nor 
conquered  a  bad  habit,  is  too  hke  the  patriotism 
which  is  confined  to  toasts  and  national  melodies, 
or  the  fihal  piety  which,  offering  fond  words  and 
embraces  in  lieu  of  solid  services,   tries  to  be  at 
once  dutiful  and  self-indulgent.     Mr  Williams  was 
honest.     He  believed  that  it  was  God's  will  that  he 
should  give  up  a  certain  gratification ;  and,  though 
some    would    have    tried    to    evade    the    sacrifice, 
though    they    w^ould   have    offered    confessions   of 
their  own  weakness  or  high-flown  protestations  of 
their  general  devotedness,  in  lieu  of  this  particular 
obedience,  it  was  not  thus  deceitfully  that  he  dealt 
with  his  heavenly  Father  and  with  himself. 

Nor  should  we  be  sorry  if  Mr  Williams's  ex- 
ample should  find  imitators  amongst  our  readers. 
It  is  true  that  Dr  Parr  and  Robert  Hall  were 
smokers.  It  is  true  that  many  good  men  are  fond 
of  the  "  naughty  foreign  weed,"  and  that  Halph 
Erskine  "  spiritualised  "  it.  And  it  may  be  true 
that  under  its  influence  the  spirits  are  serene,  the 
temper  mild,  and  the  entire  man  in  a  state  of 
comfortable  self-complacency.  But  w^e  prefer  the 
temper  which  is  independent  of  tobacco ;  and  Ave 
fear  that  in  its  self-complacency  there  is  some- 
thing illusive.  At  least  we  have  known  friends 
who,  under  its  influence,  fancied  themselves  far 
up  Parnassus,  but  when  the  fog  cleared  away 
it  proved  only  a  spur  of  tlie  luuuntain :  and  al- 
though, among  our  college  companions,  we  reuiem- 


THE  VOYAGE.  77 

ber  clever  men  who  smoked,  whilst  their  duller 
neighbours  studied;  and  altliough,  in  the  mist  of 
the  meerschaum,  they  used  to  espy  gigantic  figures, 
which  they  hailed  as  their  own  glorious  future; 
now  that  the  "  morgana  "  has  melted,  there  is  a 
sad  contrast  betwixt  the  cloudy  colossus  and  the 
slip-shod  original  from  which  it  was  projected,  and 
into  which  the  stern  day-light  had  resolved  it 
again. 

At  all  events,  a  minister,  and  much  more  a 
missionary,  should  deem  himself  a  soldier,  and  the 
less  dependent  he  is  on  these  time- wasting  enjoy- 
ments, the  more  lightly  will  he  march,  and  the 
more  ready  will  he  be  for  instant  action.  Besides, 
a  soldier  must  endure  hardness.  It  is  good  for  a 
man's  Christianity  to  be  the  victor,  even  in  such  a 
contest  as  the  battle  with  tobacco.  Every  success 
makes  him  a  stronger  and  a  happier  man; — yes, 
and  a  great  deal  richer.  In  this  warfare  there  is 
always  prize-money.  And  if  the  reader  is  a  lover 
of  books,  or  if,  with  a  most  benevolent  heart,  he  is 
always  lamenting  his  empty  hand,  let  him  attack 
and  spoil  this  enemy.  The  cigar-case  will  soon  fill 
a  handsome  book-case ;  and  were  the  snuff-box  of 
the  British  churches  converted  into  a  box  of  charity, 
it  would  maintain  all  our  missionaries,  and  would 
soon  pay  the  debts  of  our  chapels  and  schools.* 

*  For  smoking,  chewing,  and  snuffing.  Great  Britain  pays  a  ycai-Ty 
bill  of  seven  millions.  Docs  she  spend  as  much  on  books  oi-  bene- 
volence ] 


78  THE  VOYAGE. 

"Saturday,  Oct.  26.  — S.  lat.  6°  34",  long.  32° 
14".  This  has  been  a  day  ever  to  be  remembered. 
The  lio-ht  of  the  Lord's  countenance  has  broken 
upon  me,  after  having  severely  felt  that  clouds  of 
darkness  were  around  me.  For  more  than  a  month 
before  leaving  England  I  had  given  up  the  practice 
of  smoking  and  taking  snuff.  The  former  habit  I 
had  practised  for  seven  or  eight  years ;  the  latter 
only  occasionally  ;  in  fact,  it  was  in  consequence 
of  leaving  off  smoking  that  I  had  recourse  to  a 
pinch  as  an  occasional  substitute.  At  various  times 
I  have  been  under  strong  impressions  that  I  ought 
to  leave  it  oft',  and  have  felt  dissatisfied  with  myself 
for  the  self-indulgence.  But  the  cravings  after  it 
were  become  so  strong,  and  the  will  of  the  flesh  so 
urgently  demanded  it,  that  it  was  no  easy  task  to 
overcome  the  propensity.  There  is  a  charm  in 
tobacco  powerfully  beguiling  to  the  senses.  Whe- 
ther this  arises  from  its  sootliing  and  sedative 
quality,  or  from  its  being  generally  associated 
with  self-indulgence — serving  as  a  plea  for  idleness, 
and  for  a  general  relaxation  of  the  whole  man, 
body  and  mind — certain  it  is,  that  tobacco  has  a 
power  of  enslaving  its  votaries  to  a  remarkable 
degree.  No  one  has  ever  been  more  enslaved  than 
I  have  been;  yet  many  times  has  my  conscience 
smitten  me,  and  frequently  whilst  in  the  act  of 
smoking  I  have  been  obliged  to  lay  the  pipe  aside. 
At  times  I  thought  I  would  leave  it  oft'  altogether. 
Accordingly,  I  have  given  away  or  burnt  the  stock 


THE  VOYAGE.  70 

of  tobacco  I  had  in  hand,  broken  m  j  pipes,  and  for 
days  essayed  to  do  withont  it.  What  cravings — • 
what  a  sense  of  bereavement  have  I  felt !  None 
but  an  old  smoker  can  have  any  idea  of  my  miser- 
able longings.  I  have  envied  the  hodman  and  the 
meanest  person  Avith  his  short  black  pipe.  The 
very  perfume  was  a  treat — to  inhale  it  a  respite. 
Vain  were  the  efforts  thus  made.  A  toothache, 
some  bodily  disease,  or  the  persuasion  of  others, 
induced  a  renewal  of  the  habit,  and  its  bond  be- 
came stronger  than  ever.  But  the  fiat  had  gone 
forth,  '  Crucify  the  flesh  with  its  affections  and 
lusts ; '  and,  blessed  be  God,  there  was  One  in  mo 
greater  than  all  that  were  against  me.  Conscience 
became  more  and  more  severe  upon  me.  At 
length  I  resolved  to  leave  it  off,  and  happily  suc- 
ceeded without  experiencing  any  uncomfortable 
effects.  This  was  six  weeks  before  leavino-  Eno-- 
land.  During  that  time  I  kept  firm  my  resolution, 
though,  in  lieu  of  smoking,  I  had  recourse  to  snuff". 
Some  of  my  friends,  who  thought  I  was  going  to 
unnecessary  lengths  of  self-denial,  would  put  up  for 
me,  amongst  the  equipments  for  my  voyage,  both 
tobacco,  cigars,  and  a  canister  of  snuff,  and  tliey 
made  me  promise  to  purchase  a  meerschaum. 
"Well,  I  thought,  circumstances  may  possibly  bo 
such  as  to  render  it  desirable  to  have  them;  so  I 
yielded  to  then'  wish.  On  board  I  could  not  resist 
the  temptation  of  taking  a  cigar — sucli  was  my 
weakness;  giving  them  freely  away,  and  smoking 


tSO  THE  VOYAGE. 

tliem  daily,  my  stock  was  soon  exhausted;  but  all 
the  cravings  for  tobacco  were  re-acquired.  I  took 
to  the  meerschaum,  but  with  the  indulgence  came 
the  condemnation.  My  conscience  would  not  allow 
me  to  continue ;  so  I  gave  the  canister  of  snuff  to 
the  captain  of  the  ship,  and  reserved  only  a  small 
quantity.  Captain  Cooper  likewise  had  my  meer- 
schaum, on  condition  of  my  not  requiring  it  again. 
Three  or  four  days  passed  without  having  recourse 
to  him  for  it,  but  never  did  I  suffer  such  craving 
after  it.  My  stomach  became  affected,  and  my 
spirits  so  depressed,  that  I  was  compelled  to  ask 
for  it  again.  With  a  sense  of  great  bodily  rehef 
and  comfort,  I  smoked  it ;  but,  alas !  my  condem- 
nation was  great.  Hurriedly  opening  a  book  in 
my  hand,  the  question  of  the  Psalmist  was  pre- 
sented to  my  eye,  '  Lord,  who  shall  abide  in  thy 
tabernacle  ?  who  shall  dwell  in  thy  holy  hill  ?  He 
that  sweareth  to  his  own  hurt,  and  changeth  not.' 
These  words  were  applied  to  my  mind  most  for- 
cibly. I  was  condemned.  But  now  1  saw  my 
duty :  and,  suffer  what  I  might,  I  resolved  to  give 
up  the  practice  in  all  its  forms.  Having  sought 
mercy  and  forgiveness  with  the  Lord,  and  his 
grace  to  helj)  me,  I  gave  away,  in  good  earnest,  all 
my  tobacco,  my  pipe,  and  my  snuff-box,  and  I 
threw  overboard  the  small  quantity  of  snuff  1  had 
reserved.  Thus  a  complete  riddance  was  effected. 
"  Friday,  November  1. — This  day  has  been  a 
most  happy   one.      Never,   I  think,  did  I  enjoy 


■V 


%tLE  VOYAGE.  81 


sweeter  peace,  nor  feel  a  love  so  ardent  and  per- 
sonal towards  God  my  Saviour.  The  years  of  my 
life  have  rolled  before  me,  and  the  various  epochs 
and  cl^aracteristic  phases  thereof  have  presented 
themselves  to  me  in  a  new  and  strikino-  lio-ht.  The 
way  of  God  with  me,  and  his  gracious  dealing,  in 
leading  me  through  all  the  stages  of  my  career, 
have  exhibited  instances  multiphed  indeed  of  in- 
finite goodness,  mercy,  and  love.  But  as  yesterday 
I  was  the  companion  of  schoolboys,  drinking  deep 
of  the  spirit  of  wonder,  and  opening  up  new  worlds 
at  every  turn  of  my  path,  counting  on  the  future 
of  this  life  as  an  indefinite  period,  and  on  the 
scenes  of  this  world's  labors  as  an  expanse  with- 
out limits.  Then  manhood  arrived.  Ambition  led 
the  way — a  desire  to  live  among  the  names  that 
die  not,  and  to  devote  my  life  to  the  pursuit  of 
knowledge.  The  hand  of  necessity,  as  it  then 
seemed,  but  truly  the  hand  of  God,  urged  me  on 
from  one  point  to  another,  and  never  at  any 
period  of  my  life  have  I  taken  up  a  position  as  the 
result  of  my  own  forethought  and  determination. 
Even  when  blinded  through  the  ignorance  that 
was  in  me,  I  was  led  by  a  way  that  I  knew  not. 
And  now  I  behold  myself  in  a  new  scene,  and  my 
heart  rejoices  to  acknowledge  the  goodness  and 
love  of  God  in  eventuatino-  this.  A  beautiful 
thought  filled  my  mind  this  afternoon,  and  swelled 
it  to  a  i-apture  of  joy.  It  was  this  :  Come  what  will, 
— change  and  change  as  circumstances  may,  yea, 

I" 


82  THE  VOYAGE. 

come  death  itself,  that  last  great  change — still  con- 
sciousness will  not  be  interrupted.  That  consciousness 
Avhicli  identifies  with  the  being  that  now  thinks  and 
feels,  the  being  which  years  ago  played  in  childish 
gambols,  will  bear  onward  a  living  remembrance  of 
the  past  whilst  it  enters  the  scenes  of  eternity. 
AVhat,  then,  is  death  ?  It  has  lost  its  sting.  I  feel 
no  fear  of  it.  I  feel  that  nothing  can  hinder  the 
enjoyment  of  existence, — the  continuous  conscious- 
ness and  immortality  of  that  within  me, — the  soul 
that  has  eternal  life  in  Christ.  How  contented, 
therefore,  am  I  with  my  state !  and,  by  the  grace 
of  God,  I  trust  to  exult  in  tribulation,  rejoicing  in 
hope  of  the  glory  of  God.  It  was  with  a  joyful 
sense  of  this  truth,  and  in  the  perception  of  God's 
love  in  thus  calling  me  to  eternal  life,  that  my  soul 
became  full  of  love  to  Jesus  my  Saviour.  From 
the  ground  of  my  heart  I  praised  him.  Glory  be 
to  the  Lamb  of  God  for  ever  and  ever !  My  soul 
rejoiced  at  the  thought  of  an  endless  existence,  be- 
cause I  could  then  everlastingly  love  my  Saviour, 
and  glorify  God  in  him.  Life  everlasting  was  in- 
finitely desirable  and  precious,  for  such  a  reason 
and  upon  such  terms.  0  Lord  Jesus !  thou  hast 
broken  in  upon  my  soul  in  the  light  of  thy  OAvn 
revealing  Spirit,  shedding  thy  love  abroad  in  my 
heart.  My  heart  and  soul  cry  out  unto  thee,  and 
tell  thee  I  love  thee  !  " 

From  a  letter  written  by  Mr  Williams  to  his 
friend   Mr  Jones,  and  dated  November  5,  1850, 


fe. 


THE  VOYAGE.  83 

■we  give  a  few  extracts.  It  not  only  gives  a 
resume  of  the  voyage  thus  far,  out  it  introduces  us 
to  the  companions  of  our  missionary  :— 

"  Our  voyage  has  hitherto  been  a  very  fair  one : 
we  have  no  rouo-h  weather.  We  were  for  a  con- 
siderable  length  of  time  delayed  by  variable  winds 
and  calms  as  we  approached  the  Line ;  but  as  far 
as  weather  is  concerned,  this  lias  been  our  prin- 
cipal trouble.  I  felt  the  heat  greatly.  Our  berths 
at  night  were  more  like  ovens  than  anything  else. 
"We  have  had  the  fever  prevailing  greatly  among 
us  ;  three  of  our  men — the  boatmen — have  had  it, 
besides  five  or  six  others ;  and  although  I  have  had 
some  ground  for  anxiety,  yet,  thank  God,  all  have 
recovered  remarkabl^^  The  Lord  has  been  our 
keeper.  He  has  stayed  the  pestilence.  Unto  him 
be  the  praise. 

"  AVe  expect  to  make  our  destination  in  about 
three  weeks.  On  getting  there,  our  intention  is, 
-^  in  the  first  place,  by  the  help  of  the  crew,  to  dig 
an  entrenchment  around  the  site  of  our  future 
residence,  and  inside  of  this  to  raise  up  high  walls 
all  round.  This  on  a  small  islet,  just  big  enough 
for  the  purpose,  situate  betwixt  Picton  Island  and 
Garden  Island,  close  to  them  both.  The  vessel, 
which  has  been  rather  leaky,  it  is  intended  to  over- 
haul when  we  get  to  Picton  Island ;  and  it  is  pro- 
bable that  she  will  therefore  stay  with  us  a  week, 
if  not  longer.  As  soon  as  she  leaves,  it  is  our  in- 
tention to  start  also  on  a  cruise  of  discovery,  going 


84  THE  VOYAGE. 

for  that  purpose  to  the  north--west,  into  Beagle 
Clianncl,  and  to  the  west  of  Navarin  Island,  and 
among  other  places  to  Woolja,  the  place  where 
Jemmy  Button,  a  Fuegian  taken  to  England  by- 
Captain  FitzRoy,  Avas  left  on  his  return  from  Eng- 
land, after  three  years'  absence.  If  we  can  make 
him  out,  doubtless  it  may  prove  very  advantage- 
ous to  us.  At  all  events,  we  mean  to  purchase,* 
if  we  can,  two  lads  about  ten  or  twelve  years  of 
age,  and  take  them  back  with  us,  and  from  them 
acquire  the  language.  Our  cruise  may  perhaps 
last  two  or  three  months.  This,  however,  is  uncer- 
tain. We  are  well  provided  with  boats,  having 
two  very  large  ones  with  us,  besides  two  gigs  to 
attend  on  their  seniors.  We  are  well  supplied  with 
provisions. 

"  Captain  Gardiner  is  much  what  I  expected 
him  to  be.  For  indomitable  perseverance  he  is 
unquestionably  to  be  ranked  among  men  of  the 
first  class,  and  his  life  is  that  of  an  exact  and  strict 
disciplinarian.  As  a  Christian,  he  is  devout  and 
unaffected,  and  most  sincere.  I  am  indeed  far,  fiir 
short  of  him.  1  am  more  conscious  of  my  defects 
since  I  have  been  able  to  compare  myself  with 
him.  I  see  that  I  am  a  mere  vacillator  and  weak 
believer,  in  contrast  with  his  stability  and  strict  in- 

*  Of  course  Mr  Williams  only  means  that  it  was  intended  to  bor- 
row the  children  from  their  parents  for  a  certain  time,  making  the 
parents  such  a  present  as  would  secure  tlieir  consent.  A  button  was 
the  consideration  for  which  Jemmy's  parents  made  him  over  to 
Captain  FitzRoy. 


THE  VOYAGE.  85 

tegrity.     I.  am  greatly  pleased  with  all  my  com- 
panions.    Mr  Maidment,  my  fellow-catechist,  is  an 
amiable,  kind,  and  worthy  man ;  and  one  becomes 
more  attached  to  him,  and  respects  him  more,  the 
more    you   know   him.      He  is  very  sincere  and 
humble,  and  I  fully  believe  a  child  of  God.      Our 
three  young  men,  having  been  much  afflicted,  have 
exhibited    their    different    characters    strikingly. 
Poor  Bryan,  who  was  worst,  has   shewn  a  very 
meek  and  patient  disposition,   full  of  resignation 
and  a  simple-hearted  lov«  to   Christ.      Badcock, 
Avho  is  the  eldest  and  biggest  of  the  three,  is,  I  am 
persuaded,  the  subject  of  divine  grace.     He,  too,  is 
remarkably  meek,  but  there  is  a  somewhat  timid 
or  nervous  cast  of  mind  in  him.     John  Pearce  is  a 
rough,  just,  honest,  and  upright  man,  but  with  a 
little  touch  of  independence  of  spirit  which,  subdued 
by  grace  and  properly  directed,  will  rather  prove  an 
advantage.     Erwin,  our  ship-carpenter,  is  the  most 
dapper,  sprightly,  and  excellent  fellow  I  have  met 
for  a  long  time.     He  is  a  summary  of  good  quali- 
ties, good  sense,  kind  disposition,  unassuming  de- 
portment,— and  useful  for  all  purposes;  just  the 
man  we  want  to  help  and  comfort  us  in  all  exigen- 
cies.     Every  one  of  them  has  had  to  encounter 
gr^at  objections  and  many  persuasions  not  to  go 
on  such  an  enterprise.     But  God  provides  all.     Ho 
is  with  us.      How  delightful  is  his  service !      How 
do  I  rejoice  that  it  is  my  calling  to  declare  Christ, 
to  publish  such  glad  tidings  to  a  poor  abject  race ! 


80  THE  VOYAGE. 

llojoico  Avith  me,  brother  Jones,  whilst  in  the  words 
of  Mar  J  I  would  saj,  '  ]My  soul  doth  magnify  the 
Lord,  and  my  spirit  hath  rejoiced  in  God  my 
Saviour.' " 

Returning  to  the  Journal,  under  "  Thursday, 
November  28,"  we  find  the  following  entry  : — 

"  To-day,  at  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
we  passed  the  Straits  of  Magellan ;  and,  having 
had  a  splendid  breeze  all  day,  we  are  at  this  time 
■ — -ten  P.M.  —  considerably  advanced  toward  the 
Strait  of  Le  Maire,  which  we  hope  to  pass  through 
to-morrow.  We  are  now  happily  bringing  our 
voyage  to  a  close.  To-day  the  sun  has  shone  very 
brilliantly,  and  this  evening  it  has  poured  a  bril- 
liant flood  of  lio-ht  around  us.  Its  setting  was  as 
fine  a  scene  as  anything  we  have  witnessed  during 
our  voyage,  and  has  greatly  cheered  us,  taking  it 
as  an  earnest  that  we  shall  not  bo  altoo-ether 
wanting  bright  days  and  sunny  visitations,  and 
likewise  deemino"  it  in  our  fancies  as  a  welcome 
paid  us  by  Fuegia's  luminary. 

^'Friday,  November  29. — To-day  at  half-past 
one  A.M.  we  first  had  a  sight  of  the  mountains  of 
Ticrra  del  FuGgo.  At  that  time  I  heard  the  chief 
mate  awake  the  Captain,  and  inform  him  of  the 
fact.  I  was  singularly  impressed  with  the  idea 
that  we  were  in  danger.  The  thought  crossed  my 
mind  several  times,  but  without  affecting  me  with 
any  anxiety,  but  inducing  mo  to  call  upon  the  Lord 
with   reliance   and   trust    upon    him.      I   had    no 


THE  VOYAGE. 


87 


ground  whatever  for  the  surmise  at  the  thiie,  heai'- 
iiiD'  no  intimation  to  that  effect,  and  I  was  surprised 
when  I  afterwards  learned  from  the  second  mate, 
that  in  consequence  of  the  men  not  keeping  a  good 
look-out,  we  had  well-nigh  run  ashore  just  at  that 
time. 

"  At  about  half-past  four,  Captain  Gardiner 
awoke  mc,  and  told  me  the  land  was  well  in  sight. 
I  arose  and  went  on  deck.  There  was  Tierra  del 
Fuego,  sure  enough ;  its  snow^-tipped  mountains 
w'ere  looming  through  the  vapors  of  the  morning 
sky,  and  the  land  of  Fuegia  threw  a  faint  cold 
smile  upon  us,  and  greeted  us  with  a  rough,  but, 
doubtless,  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand;  for  truly 
enough  we  shivered,  if  not  at  the  sight  of  it,  yet, 
with  cold.  At  eight  o'clock  we  were  off  the 
entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Le  Mairc ;  but  the  wind 
being  adverse,  \\e  could  not  take  advantage  of  the 
tide  Avliich  set  at  that  hour.  Consequently,  we 
had  to  lie  off,  and  beat  between  the  two  coasts  of 
Staten  Island  and  the  mainland.  We  had  thus 
abundant  opportunity  for  seeing  this  remarkable 
land,  particularly  Staten  Island,  and  likewise  abun- 
dant experience  of  the  extreme  disagreeableness  of 
our  proximity  to  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire.  The 
swell  from  the  ocean  here  rising  in  opposition  to 
the  tide-race  produces  a  scene  altogether  novel  to 
us ;  the  sea  seems  literally  alive ;  its  commotion  is 
extreme.  Abreast  the  land  in  particular,  and 
extending  two  or  three  miles  out,  or  more,  there 


88  THE  VOYAGE. 

is  the  appearance  of  innumerable  breakers,  and 
the  white  spray  dashes  its  waters  about  in  the 
wildest  manner.  The  wind  blowing  strong  from 
the  S.E.,  we  rolled  about,  owing  to  it  and  the 
tide-race  and  swell  combined,  far  more  than  we 
should  have  done  in  an  ordinary  gale.  At  three 
o'clock  we  hoped  to  have  an  opportunity  again,  it 
being  ebb-tide,  to  pass  through ;  but  though  Ave 
tried,  it  was  impossible,  the  wind  continuing  un- 
favorable. We  have  thus  during  the  day,  it 
being  now  nearly  eleven  p.m.,  had  ample  experi- 
ence of  Fuegian  weather.  If  we  must  take  it  for 
a  sample,  it  is  certainly  none  of  tlie  best ; — sudden 
puifs  of  wind,  with  ominous  gathering  of  dark 
clouds,  and  a  chilly  aspect  of  the  whole  heavens, 
with  a  conviction  seizing  your  mind,  that  you  are 
going  to  have  a  snow-storm,  which  apprehension  is 
converted  into  the  slighter  infliction  of  a  thin  driv- 
ing but  sharp  sleet,  or,  as  I  expect  we  may  yet 
lind,  into  a  thumping  hail-storm ;  and  then  the  mist 
on  the  mountains  clears  up,  and  exposes  a  few 
glimmering  rays  of  the  sun,  burnishing  their  sides 
of  snow. 

"  In  excellent  keeping  with  the  rough  and  win- 
try climate  is  the  aspect  of  the  land.  Words  can 
never  do  justice  to  its  frowning,  wild,  and  wintry 
character.  Staten  Island  must  certainly  be  un- 
equalled  in  this  respect.  It  is  a  place  of  dreariness 
and  of  forlorn  solitude,  par  excellence.  Its  bare, 
broken,  jagged,  turret-like  hills,  present  the  i^lca 


THE  VOYAGK.  89 

of  an  iiniTiCnsc  lortrcss,  erected  by  uature  herself 
on  her  own  grand  scale,  and  designed  to  imprison 
an  unmolested  solitude  ^Yithiu  its  ■walls,  and  to 
frown  back  all  attempts  on  the  part  of  man  to 
disturb  her  here.  It  is  no  wonder  that  it  never 
has  been  inhabited.  It  seems  from  a  distance  as 
though  it  were  clad  in  some  hard  and  impenetrable 
covering,  saving  the  snows  on  its  ridges  and  slopes, 
of  one  uniform  russet  brown  colour. 

"  I  have  not  felt  disturbed  bv  any  means.  This 
I  must  attribute  to  the  grace  of  God  only,  and  to 
no  resolution  or  constancy  of  my  mind;  for  who 
can  dchght  more  than  I  in  sunny  scenes?  But, 
praise  God,  I  feel  I  can  well  forego  all  earthly 
joys,  if  the  Lord  will  graciously  vouchsafe  to  bless 
my  soul,  and  endow  me  with  the  riches  of  his 
grace.  I  was  greatly  strengthened  while  in  prayer 
this  morning.  At  this  the  uttermost  end  of  the 
earth,  and  where  there  is  less  in  climate,  land,  or 
people,  to  cheer  the  mind,  than  at  almost  any 
other  spot  of  the  world,  if  God  has  a  work  for  me 
to  do,  and  his  blessing  rests  upon  me  whilst  engaged 
therein,  then  God's  lioly  will  be  done  in  me  and 
by  me,  let  the  circumstances  surrounding,  or  the 
events  awaiting  me,  be  what  they  will.  At  the 
time  of  writing  this  it  is  blowing  hard,  and  the 
thermometer  in  the  cabin,  shut  up  around  me, 
stands  at  52°.     I  am  indeed  glad  to  wrap  up  now. 

"  Saturday,  November  30. — Our  tweh'tli  week 
at  sea.     At    four   o'clock  this  morning,   our  sliip 


90  THE  VOYAGE. 

having  worked  about  all  night,  with  a  strong  head 
wind  from  the  S.S.W.,  we  were  in  the  same  posi- 
tion ;  and  our  bearings  off  Cape  San  Diego,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire,  were  much  tlie 
same  as  they  were  yesterday  morning  at  eight 
o'clock.  Wind  and  tide  against  us  had  beaten  us 
back  from  all  attempts  hitherto  made  to  enter  the 
Strait;  but  now,  taking  advantage  of  an  ebb-tide 
and  a  strong  wind,  the  Captain  carried  on  a  heavy 
canvas,  and  finally  about  mid-day  we  got  througli 
the  Strait.  It  Avas  a  hard  contest,  and  we  did  but 
just  escape  the  lee-shore  of  Staten  Island,  as  we 
weathered  Cape  St  Bartholomew.  All  the  day  long 
we  have  continued  to  beat  about  under  sino-le-reefed 
topsails,  having,  especially  during  the  night,  very 
violent  squalls  and  a  tremendous  sea,  shipping- 
heavy  seas  on  our  poop.  What  with  the  extreme 
gloom  of  the  weather,  snow,  sleet,  hail,  and  rain, 
and  foo-s,  intermixed  with  a  drivino-  cold  S.S.W. 
Avind,  bloAving  hard,  with  the  dashing  of  the  billows 
over  us,  and  the  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  vessel, 
our  position  Avas  by  no  means  agi'eeable.  Such 
Avas  the  pitching  and  constant  motion  of  the  vessel, 
that  it  induced  a  momentary  attack  of  sea-sickness 
Avith  me,  whilst  my  poor  friend  Mr  Maidment 
sufl:ered  very  severely,  as  indeed  he  has  done 
throughout  the  voyage  whenever  the  Aveather  has 
been  rough. 

"  The  following  day,  Sunday,  Avas  passed  beat- 
ing about,  Avith  much  the  same  Aveather  prevailing, 


THE  VOYAGE.  91 

the  thermometer  in  the  cabin  standing  most  of  the 
day  at  42°  and  44°  Fahr. 

"  Surely  Fiiegia  is  the  land  of  darkness,  the 
country  of  gloom,  a  scene  of  wild  desolation,  both 
land  and  climate  agreed  as  to  character,  the  one 
frowning  and  desolate,  the  other  black  and  tem- 
pestuous. A  few,  and  only  a  few,  cheering  smiles 
has  the  sun  beamed  upon  us,  and  the  cold  snows 
upon  the  rough  masses  of  Staten  Island  put  on  an 
unnatural  appearance,  and  looked  more  and  more 
pale  under  the  reviving  influences  of  the  light.  If 
such  the  land,  and  such  the  climate,  we  have 
reason  to  expect  the  people  will  not  fall  short  of 
congruity  with  either.  Well,  and  how  do  I  bear 
up  under  these  not  very  flattering  prospects? 
Have  I  had  my  expectations  pointed  to  such  an 
agreeable  picture  ?  What  shall  I  say  ?  I  will  own 
the  truth.  I  have  not  been  ignorant  of  the  fact, 
that  such  was  the  character  of  the  reoion  to  which 
I  was  bound.  Captain  FitzRoy,  and  especially  Mr 
Darwin,  in  his  '  Journal,'  had  made  this  sufficiently 
clear,  yet  I  certainly  had  not  in  any  degree 
realised  it.  How  different  is  the  acquaintance  wo 
get  by  reading,  from  that  which  we  acquire  by 
personal  experience  of  things !  In  our  parlours  at 
home  wo  do  not  shiver  at  the  cold  scenes  we  read 
of,  but  rather  enjoy  by  contrast  our  present  com- 
forts. It  is  singular  that  amidst  all  the  working  of 
my  mind  in  connexion  with  this  great  undertaking, 

never  contemplated  it  in  the  character  of  one  oi 


92  THK  VOVAUE. 

great  suffering  and  great  trial.  I  was  not  ignor- 
ant that  such  it  would  assuredly  prove  itself  to  be, 
but  I  troubled  not  myself  with  the  thought-  of  it. 
I  have  all  along  felt  that  it  was  required  at  my 
hand  to  make  the  sacrifice  of  everything  to  God ; 
but  I  have  had  some  such  feelino;  as  was  suffo'ested 
by  Abraham  to  his  son  Isaac,  when  he  was  on  his 
way  to  the  altar,  with  the  wood  on  his  back 
whereon  he  should  be  offered,  that  thouQ-h  thus 
palpably  going  to  the  fiery  ordeal,  yet  God  w^ould 
provide  for  himself  a  lamb  for  the  sacrifice.  The 
truth  is,  I  could  in  anticipation  cast  all  my  care 
so  entirely  upon  the  Lord,  that  I  took  no  other 
care  but  to  ascertain  that  it  was  his  will  that  I 
should  thus  serve  him,  assured  that  in  the  hour  of 
my  need  he  would  strengthen  my  heart,  and  be 
with  me  to  sustain  me.  Have  I  then  been  taken 
unawares  ?  No.  Have  I  been  disappointed  ?  No. 
The  hour  has  come ;  and  though  I  have  never 
painted  to  my  mind  all  that  I  should  have  to 
encounter,  yet  I  am  not  any  the  less  unpre- 
pared for  the  trial,  because  I  have  not  to 
grapple  with  it  in  my  own  strength,  nor  to  prepare 
myself  for  the  encouutci'.  I  verified  tliis  yester- 
day (Sunday)  morning  in  a  remarkable  manner, 
whilst  engaged  in  reading  the  12th  of  Romans. 
God's  Holy  Spirit  engaged  my  soul  in  fervent 
prayer  for  grace  to  help  me.  I  was  led  to  offer  up 
my  body  as  a  living  sacrifice  unto  God,  and  with 
my  whole  heart  consenting,   with  my  entire  will 


THE  VOYAGE.  93 

prostrate  and  subjected  to  the  will  of  God,  that  I 
might  prove  what  is  His  good,  and  acceptable,  and 
perfect  will.  I  surrendered  myself  into  the  hand 
of  the  Lord  Jesus,  with  so  complete  a  trust  in  him, 
and  love  to  him.  as  it  was  indeed  delio-htful  to  feel; 
and  how  shall  I  praise  the  mercy  and  grace,  and 
condescendiuo;  (goodness  of  God !  I  felt  a  sensible 
manifestation  of  God  to  my  soul,  accepting  my 
ojffer.  My  heart  was  broken  by  a  sense  of  God's 
love,  that  streamed  in  upon  it,  and  my  tears  and 
upheaving  breast  idone  could  speak  my  gratitude 
and  praise.     Praise,  praise  to  the  Lord  ! 

"  To-day,  Monday,  December  2,  after  a  some- 
what more  favorable  nio;ht,  though  making  but 
little  headway,  at  eleven  o'clock  we  were  off  Cape 
Hall,  Cape  Good  Success  bearing  north  (true),  and 
we  now  expect  to  weather  Cape  Pio,  and  tliis  after- 
noon make  Picton  Island. 

"  Tuesday,  Decemher  3. — Made  httle  advance 
upon  yesterday,  the  wind  being  right  ahead. 

'•'  Wednesday,  December  4. — Since  Monday,  we 
have  been  making  laborious  efforts  to  weather  Cape 
Pio,  in  Slogget  Bay,  but  until  this  evening  we  have 
been  unsuccessful,  the  wind  blowing  right  ahead, 
and  wearing  ship  and  tacking  about  being  both  in 
vain.  This  evening  we  have,  however,  succeeded, 
and  but  for  hazv  weather  we  mi2;ht  soon  have  our 
anchor  down.  Each  day  lias  been  cold  and  squally, 
with  hail  ani  sleet  and  ruin ;  the  sun  has  only 
occasionallv  been  visible  :  at  sunset  he  has  been 


94  THE  VOYAGE. 

most  conspicuous,  and  last  evening  it  -vyas  as  splen- 
did and  brilliant  a  sight  as  any  we  have  witnessed 
durino'  the  vovage.  The  land  alono-  the  shore  has 
still  the  same  general  characteristics,  bold  and 
mountainous,  dark  and  frownino".  The  men  have 
been  sadly  harassed  at  their  duties  ever  since  we 
hove  in  sight  of  this  land  of  storms.  Exposed  to 
drifting  snow  squalls,  and  huge  seas  like  cascades 
pouring  their  volumes  of  water  upon  them,  their 
plight  has  been  really  pitiable,  and  they,  as  well  as 
every  one  else,  have  been  anxiously  expecting  to 
get  to  Banner  Cove.  But  if  all  the  rest  have  felt 
the  disappointment,  I  have  reason  to  bless  God. 
Yesterday  and  to-day,  but  more  especially  to-day, 
have  been  the  brightest  for  spiritual  enlargement 
and  joy  in  God  of  any  I  have  known  since  I  have 
been  on  board.  Graciously,  indeed,  has  the  Lord 
blessed  me,  taking  away  every  doubt,  removing 
every  fear,  confirming  my  hopes,  and  strengthen- 
ing my  heart.  By  his  grace  I  have  been  able 
cheerfully  and  willingly  to  subject  myself  into  an 
entire  obedience,  and  to  yield  myself  up  to  him, 
for  him  to  do  with  me  whatsoev'^er  it  pleaseth  him. 
I  have  seen  clearly  that  all  has  been  ordered  of 
God,  and  that  he  will  abundantly  crown  the  Avork 
with  success.  Plainly  have  I  seen  that  he  who 
said,  '  And  this  gospel  of  the  kingdom  shall  be 
preached  in  all  the  world,  for  a  witness  to  all  na- 
tions, and  then  shall  the  end  come,'  hath  required 
it  at  our  hands,  to  plant  his  gospel  in  this  the 


THE  VOYAGE.  95 

uttermost  end  of  the  world.  And,  blessed  be  God, 
I  have  experienced  sensibly  this  day  that  I  am  a 
son  of  God — the  Holy  Ghost  witnessing  and  shed- 
ding abroad  the  love  of  God  in  my  heart.  Sweetly 
have  I  realised  that  I  am  one  v.-ith  Christ,  and  have 
the  Spirit  which  raised  up  Christ  from  the  dead. 
Now  do  I  feel  how  merciful  the  Lord  is,  and  how 
tender  is  his  compassion;  and  now  am  I  able,  in 
some  poor  degree,  to  comprehend  with  all  saints, 
what  is  the  love  of  Christ,  which  passeth  all  know- 
ledo'e.  IS^ow  do  I  feel  that  the  Lord  has  blessed 
me,  and  prepared  me  for  liis  work,  giving  me  the 
whole  armour  of  God.  Now  I  can  rejoice  with  joy 
unspeakable  and  full  of  glory.  Now  can  I  say  that 
the  peace  of  God,  which  passeth  all  understanding, 
keeps  my  heart  and  mind ;  and  that 

"  Not  a  cloud  doth  arise 
To  darken  my  eyes. 

"  Thursday,  December  5. — At  eleven  o'clock 
this  morning,  we  cast  anchor  in  Banner  Eoads, 
having  by  the  mercy  of  God  arrived  safe  at  our  des- 
tination. The  whole  of  last  night  was  foggy,  with  a 
heavy  drizzling  rain,  and  the  wind  still  ahead. 
The  Captain  made  short  tacks,  and  with  scarce  any 
possibility  of  telling  whether  we  made  any  pro- 
gress, or  how  we  were  moving.  When  about  tour 
o'clock  it  became  clear  enough  to  see,  our  position 
was  happily  and  providentially  found  to  be  greatly 
in  advance  of  our  expectations,  Avith  every  certainty 
of  continuing  to  make  way  to  our  anchorage  groimd. 


96  TUB  VOYAGE. 

About  nine,  whilst  drifting  on  past  Picton  Island, 
we  observed  lying  off  Garden  Island  three  canoes, 
which  presently  put  off  to  us,  each  one  containing 
a  Fuegian  and  his  family,  more  or  less  numerous. 
In  each  there  were  two  women  and  children,  in  one 
an  infant  at  the  breast,  in  another  a  poor  decrepit 
old  man.  Whilst  scarcely  discernible  with  the  naked 
eye,  we  heard  their  stentorian  voices,  shouting 
'  Yammer  schooner '  [Give  mc]  : — amazing  indeed  is 
the  power  of  their  voice.  As  they  severally  hove 
in  sight,  they  gesticulated  and  shouted  with  every 
wild  and  remarkable  expression,  one  man  in  par- 
ticular being  very  garrulous,  and  full  of  vivacity. 
The  impression  they  made  on  my  mind,  as  they 
became  distinctly  seen,  first  by  the  telescope  and 
afterwards  by  the  naked  eye,  is  one  which  can 
never  be  effaced.  It  seemed  incredible  they  could 
be  human  beings.  You  observed  a  lop-sided  strange 
\incouth  tiling  on  the  water,  not  to  be  called  a  boat, 
and  not  realising  our  ideas  of  a  canoe,  but  so  deep, 
that  just  the  heads  of  the  Fuegians  could  be  seen 
in  it.  As  these  dark  masses  of  hair,  like  so  many 
mops,  drew  nearer,  we  were  able  to  discern  the 
features,  which  were,  indeed,  surprising  to  us.  On 
a  nearer  inspection,  however,  I  could  trace  in  many 
of  them,  indeed  I  may  say  in  all,  the  lineaments  of 
the  noblest  humanity,  and  features  expressive  of 
benevolence  and  generosity,  though,  as  it  were, 
buried  deep  in  deplorable  ignorance  and  abject 
want.     One  woman  had  a  remarkably  prepossess- 


THE  VOYAGE.  97 

ing  countenance,  very  open  and  cheerful ;  so  also 
had  one  of  the  men,  and  he  often  in  our  after  inter- 
course laughed  heartily.  I  had  taken  some  comfort 
to  my  mind,  from  the  favorable  aspect  wliicli  the 
islands  around  us,  particularly  Picton  and  Garden 
Islands,  presented  ;  but  now  my  lieart  swelled  with 
emotion,  full  of  pleasure  and  satisfaction  that  our 
errand  was  for  the  purpose  of  imparting  benefits 
so  great  and  so  much  needed  to  these  poor  crea- 
tures. I  hailed  the  prospect  with  a  degree  of 
rapture." 

Such  was  the  cheerful  spirit  with  which  Mr 
Williams  surveyed  the  field  of  his  destined  labors. 
But  he  made  its  acquaintance  under  great  advan- 
tages. Being  December,  it  was  the  Antarctic 
midsummer ;  and,  like  the  climate,  the  natives  wore 
their  best  faces.  They  wanted  food  and  trinkets 
from  the  strangers;  and  as  long  as  their  visitors 
remained  on  ship-board  they  were  safe  from  tricks 
and  violence.  —  But,  before  proceeding  with  the 
narrative,  it  may  be  well  to  introduce  the  reader 
to  the  place  and  the  people.  Wo  shall  thus  better 
understand  how  arduous  was  the  task  which  these 
pious  pilgrims  had  undertaken,  and  shall  be  able  to 
sympathise  more  fully  in  the  great  fight  of  afflic" 
tions  which  they  were  soon  to  pass  through. 


CHAPTER    VI. 


Cil 


Th'  eternal  Monarcli  from  on  high 
Cast  on  the  sons  of  earth  his  eye, 
If  haply  some  he  yet  might  see 
True  to  their  God,  from  error  free. 

He  look'd ;  but  ah  !  not  one  could  find 
To  virtue's  Heaven-taught  rules  inclined ; 
Each,  led  from  wisdom's  path  astray. 
Pursues  the  tenor  of  his  way. 

Psalm  liii.  2,  3. — Memck. 


What  renders  it  much  more  diflScult  to  convey  divine  truths  to  the 
understandings  of  these  Indians,  is,  that  there  seems  to  be  no  founda- 
tion in  their  minds  to  begin  upon.  Besides,  their  inconvenient  situa- 
tions, savage  manners,  and  unhappy  method  of  living,  have  been  an 
unspeakable  difficulty  and  discouragement  to  me  in  my  work.— 
David  Brainerd. 


The  outline  of  South  America  may  be  compared 
to  a  paper  kite ;  and,  like  a  kite,  there  is  attached 
to  its  apex  a  jointed  tail,  of  which  Fuegia  and  the 
South  Shetlands  are  the  only  fragments  seen  above 
water.  In  other  words,  the  mighty  wall  of  the 
Andes  is  broken  through  by  the  sea,  and  the 
inundated  valley  forms  the  Strait  of  Magellan ; 
and,  after  a  feeble  re-appearance  in  the  Fuegian 
archipelago,  the  cordillera  is  lost  in  the  ocean. 

As  seen  on  a  school-room  map,  this  Tierra  del 
Fuego  is  a  dim  islet,  deriving  its  chief  importance 
from  its  famous  headland.  Capo  Horn.  On  a 
nearer  inspection,  however,  this  nebulous  patch 
resolves  into  a  cluster  of  islands,— one  very  large, 
with  a  croAvd  of  smaller  attendants  to  the  west  and 
south ;  and,  far  from  the  mainland,  stands  the 
kerbstone  of  the  New  World, — Cape  Horn  with  his 
surf-beaten  pyramid. 

Though  only  tlic  fag-end  of  America — a  mere 
caudal  vertebra    of   the   Andes  —  if  wc   had  it  ia 


102  l^UEGIA. 

Europe,  Tierra  del  Fuego  would  be  a  country  of 
some  consideration.  Its  second-rate  islands  are 
larger  than  the  Isle  of  Wight  or  the  Isle  of  ]\Ian, 
and  the  surface  of  its  mainland  is  equal  to  the  Low- 
lands of  Scotland.  Its  climate,  however,  renders 
it  one  of  the  most  dreary  and  inhospitable  regions 
on  the  face  of  the  globe.  In  a  latitude  correspond- 
ing to  Edinburgh,  the  sky  seldom  clears,  and  ihe 
rainy  squalls  of  the  summer  are  the  only  relief 
from  the  sleet  and  snow  of  the  winter.  A  calm 
sunshine  is  a  great  rarity.  If  we  imagined  the 
mountains  of  the  Hebrides  rising  to  a  height  of 
six  or  seven  thousand  feet,  with  glaciers  coming 
down  to  the  sea,  and  a  warm  tide  constantly  flow- 
ing at  their  base  ;  and  if,  moreover,  we  could  bring 
the  north  polar  ice  into  as  low  a  latitude  as  the  An- 
tarctic ice  descends — our  own  Western  Isles  would 
be  the  counterpart  of  Fuegia.  The  warm  vapor 
of  the  ocean  would  then  be  perpetually  condensing 
on  the  frost  of  the  hills,  and  clouds  and  showers 
would  blot  out  from  Mull  and  Skye  their  occasional 
days  of  clear  weather.  Even  then,  however,  our 
Western  Isles  would  be  halcyon  nests  compared 
with  this  stormy  archipelago.  Nothing  save  a 
rampart  of  mountains,  a  mile  or  two  in  height, 
extending  from  the  Cape  Ycrdes  to  Campbelton, 
damming  up  tlie  winds,  and  forcing  ihcm  to  rush 
through  a  few  funnels  on  the  Sound  of  Jura,  could 
give  our  Northern  Ilcniisphcre  a  fac-siniilc  of  a 
Fucgian  willkvaiv.     This  ferocious  wind  is  capable 


FUEGIA.  103 

of  overturning-  almost  any  obstacle ;  and,  like  grass 
in  a  swathe,  not  only  branches  but  whole  trees 
will  sometimes  be  found  piled  up  at  the  mouth  of 
a  gully  where  its  rough  sickle  has  passed. 

Notwithstanding  its  boisterous  summers  and  its 
perpetual    storms,    the    average    temperature    of 
Fuegia  is  as  high  as   Quebec  or  Montreal;   and 
perhaps  we  have  in  London  days  as  cold  as  any 
which  occur  in  Hoste  or  Navarin  Islands.      The 
rano-e  between  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  is 
small,  and  this  comparative  equability,  along  with 
the    abundant    moisture,    is    favorable    to    certain 
forms  of  veaetable  life.    In  most  districts  of  Britain 
the  Fuchsia  is  a  conservatory  plant ;  but  in  Devon- 
shire and  in  the  Isle  of  Bute  it  grows  luxuriantly 
in  the  open  air,  and  in  winter  wants  no  shelter. 
Fuegia  is  one  of  its  native  lands,  and  there,  along 
with  its  equally  delicate  companion,  Veroiiica  de~ 
cussata,  it  becomes  a  tree   with  a  trunk  half  a 
foot  in  diameter.      The  potato  is  indigenous  on  the 
adjacent  mainland,  although  we  do  not  know  that 
it  has  been  found  in  these  islands,  where  celery, 
a  species  of  currant,  the  berry  of  an  arbutus,  and 
a  fungus,  are  the  only  esculents.    The  characteristic 
veo-etation  is  two  sorts  of  beech-tree.     One  of  these 
{Fagus   hetuloides)   is   an   evergreen  ;    the   other 
{Fagus    Antarctica)    is    deciduous.       The    latter 
species  is  more  hardy,  and  can  scale  the  mountain- 
sides to  a  higher  platform  than  its  glossy -green 
companion ;    so  that  in  winter  a  zone  of  leatless 


104  FDEGIA. 

trees  is  seen  at  a  lofty  elevation,  succeeding  to  the 
verdure  of  the  forest.  Except  veliere  discouraged 
b}^  the  thin  granitic  soil,  these  beeches  occur  every- 
Avhere ;  and,  except  Avhen  stunted  by  the  winds,  they 
attain  a  goodly  size;  and  one  trunk  is  mentioned 
seven  feet  in  diameter.  But  any  tourist  who 
expects  a  repetition  of  our  own  Buckinghamshire  in 
the  forests  of  Fuegia  will  be  wofully  disappointed. 
Our  woodland  scenery  owes  all  its  charm  to  its 
park-like  variety,  where  clumps  of  many  kinds 
occur  ;  and  where,  from  the  sylvan  labyrinth,  you 
easily  emerge  on  smooth  pastures  and  smoking* 
hamlets.  But  it  is  a  very  different  thing  to  land 
from  a  boat  direct  in  the  tliicket,  and  after 
struggling  to  the  top  of  a  Mount  Tarn  or  a  Mount 
Buckland,  to  look  down  on  an  expanse  of  silent 
greenery,  only  broken  by  shipless  arms  of  the  sea  ; 
and  any  one  who  has  spent  many  weeks  among 
the  pines  of  the  Black  Forest  or  the  Arbor  Vitse 
SAvamps  of  the  Mississippi,  will  understand  what  an 
incubus  on  the  spirits  a  monotonous  vegetation 
becomes.  In  Tierra  del  Fuego  the  only  varie- 
gating incident  is  "  the  bursting  of  the  leaf  and 
flower-buds  of  the  deciduous  beech  from  their 
resinous  gummy  scales ;  when  a  delightfully  fra- 
grant odour  pervades  the  woods ; "  *  and  the 
explorer  may  be  occasionally  rewarded  by  coming 
on  a  Winter's  Bark  or  some  less  usual  tree. 

*  Hooker's  Flora  Antarctica,  p.  348. 


FUEGIA. 


105 


Land  animals  are  few.      Even  insects  are  rare ; 
rnd  such  flies  and  beetles  as  occur,  are  inconspi- 
cuous and  uninteresting  creatures.      Like  Ireland, 
Fuegia  is  exempt  from  serpents,  and  even  frogs 
have  been   expelled   by  its   St   Patrick.      "  The 
gloomy  woods  are  inhabited  by  few  birds  ;    occa- 
sionally the  plaintive  notes  of  a  tyrant  fly-catcher 
may  be  heard ;    and  more  rarely  the  loud  strange 
cr^    of   a   black    woodpecker.      A   little    dusky- 
coloured  wren  hojDS  in  a  skulking  manner  among 
the   entangled   mass  of  the   fallen   and  decaying 
trunks.     But  the  creeper  {Oxyurus  Tupinieri)  is 
the  commonest  bird  of  the  country.      Throughout 
the  beech  forests,  high  up  and  low  down,  in  the 
most  gloomy,   wet,   and   impenetrable    ravines,   it 
may    be    met   with.       This   little   bird   no   doubt 
appears  more  numerous  than  it  really  is,  from  its 
habit  of   following,    with   seeming   curiosity,    any 
person  who  enters  these  silent  woods ;   continually 
utterino;  its  harsh  twitter,  it  flut  ers  from  tree  to 
tree,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  intruder's  face.     In 
the   more    open   parts,  three   or   four   species    of 
finches,  &c.,  and  several  hawks  and  owls,  occur."  * 
Most  curious  of  all  is  the  existence  of  a  humming- 
bird {MelUsuga  Kingii)  on  the  shores  of  this  wintry 
realm  ;  and  which,  even  amidst  the  showers  of  snow, 
has  been  observed  flitting  about  in  search  of  the 
msects,  equally  hardy,  that  lurk  in  the  blossoms  of 

*  Darwin's  Voyage  round  the  World,  chap.  xi. — one  of  the  most 
charniing  and  instructive  journals  ever  published. 


106  FUEGIA. 

the  Veronica  and  Fuchsia.  The  most  important 
quadruped  is  the  guanaco  or  llama,  that  useful 
compromise  between  the  sheep  and  the  camel,  so 
characteristic  of  the  South  American  mountains.  It 
is  found  on  Navarin  Island,  and  on  the  main  island, 
or,  Tierra  del  Fuego  proper.  In  summer  shy  and 
vigilant,  the  want  of  pasture  drives  it  in  the  winter 
down  to  the  valleys,  where  its  slender  legs  slump 
into  the  snow,  and  make  it  an  easy  capture.  Two 
species  of  fox  occur,  and  these,  with  a  few  small 
rodents  of  the  mouse  and  bat  families,  complete 
the  inland  zoology  of  this  inhospitable  region. 

But  the  waters  largely  compensate  for  the  life- 
lessness  of  the  land.  With  its  colossal  sea- weeds, 
Fuegia  might  well  be  the  paradise  of  fishes.  To 
say  nothing  of  many  beautiful  varieties  which  are 
dredged  up  from  the  rocks  or  washed  ashore  by 
the  tides,  these  coasts  are  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Lessonia  and  Macrocystis,  the  two  giants  of  the 
ocean  Flora.  The  former  is  an  arborescent  sea- 
weed, with  a  trunk  of  concentric  layers  so  timber- 
like, that  Dr  Hooker  mentions  a  captain  who 
employed  a  boat's  crew  two  days  collecting  the 
incombustible  stems  for  fuel.  The  Macrocystis, 
instead  of  a  trunk  as  thick  as  an  ordinary  cherry- 
tree,  is  moored  to  the  rock  by  a  tough  but  slen- 
der cable,  which,  rising  to  the  surface,  breaks  into 
leaves,  and  then  streams  along  a  luxuriant  tangle 
for  several  hundred  feet.  The  Victoria  water-lily 
requires  a  tank  and  hot-liousc  for  its  special  accom- 


FUBGIA.  107 

modation ;  but  a  prime  Macrocystis  would  need  a 
tank  a  hundred  feet  deep,  and  as  long  as  West- 
minster Abbey.  In  general,  however,  its  cable 
is  only  a  few  fathoms  long,  and  as  its  streamers 
wave  over  every  inundated  rock,  it  is  at  once  the 
buoy  and  the  !>reakAYater  of  these  dangerous  chan- 
nels. The  "  moored  kelp  "  warns  the  mariner  of 
a  sunken  rock,  and  if  in  stormy  weather  his  little 
vessel  can  only  get  to  leeward  of  its  floating  acres, 
he  may  set  the  wildest  sea  at  defiance.*  In  this 
way  has  Providence  not  only  supplied  the  means  of 
safety  in  the  very  midst  of  danger,  but,  by  the 
same  arrangement,  he  has  prepared  a  source  of  sub- 
sistence for  this  land  of  famine.  These  gigantic  sea- 
weeds are  the  home  and  the  pasture-field  of  count- 
less mollusks  and  crustaceans.  The  leaves  are 
crowded  with  shell-fish.  The  stems  are  so  encrust- 
ed with  corallines,  as  to  be  of  a  white  colour. 
And  '•'  on  shaking  the  great  entangled  roots",  a  pile 
of  small  fish,  shells,  cuttle-fish,  crabs  of  all  orders, 
sea-eggs,  star-fish,  and  crawling  nereidous  animals 
of  a  multitude  of  forms,  all  fall  out  together."  f 
To  such  a  well-stored  larder  it  is  not  wonderful 
that  shoals  of  fishes  should  resort,  foi-saking  for  it 
brio-htcr  but  less  bountiful  Avaters  ;  and  in  the 
wake   of  these   fishes  come    armies   of  seals  and 


*  For  beautifal  figures  and  many  interesting  particulars  regarding 
tliese  and  the  other  Algic  of  Fuegia,  tiic  i-eader  is  referred  to  I>r 
ILioker's  isiaguiticcnt  work,  the  "  Flora  Antarctica." 

t  Darwin. 


108  FUEGIA. 

clouds  of  sea-fowl.  Among  the  latter  are  shags, 
petrels,  ducks,  red-bills,  sea-pigeons,  geese,  steamer- 
ducks,  and  penguins.  Of  these  many  species  have 
their  breeding-places  on  the  cliffs  of  the  desolate 
islands.  With  their  black  coats  and  yellow  waist- 
coats, the  substantial  and  yeoman-like  penguins  take 
up  their  abode  on  the  grassy  fiats ;  and  in  the  month 
of  January,  that  is  to  say,  at  their  mid-summer, 
a  braying  quack  may  constantly  be  heard  from 
morning  to  evening,  inviting  to  dainty  morsels  their 
fat  and  solemn  fledglings, — a  dinner-bell  which  is 
never  silent  in  the  populous  "  penguinery."  Not 
improbably  with  sinister  designs  on  the  infant 
penguins,  the  sea-lion  is  fond  of  a  Avalk  among  the 
tufts  of  tussac,  and,  along  with  the  sea-otter  and 
the  porpoise,  this  tyrant  of  the  Southern  Ocean  is 
the  great  terror  of  the  larger  fishes.  Predaceous 
as  are  the  habits  of  so  many  of  these  creatures,  it 
is  interesting  to  contemplate  the  skill  and  profusion 
with  which  a  sea  so  unpromising  is  peopled.  All 
are  ultimately  dependent  on  a  seemingly  worthless 
sea-weed.  That  fucus  cherishes  the  worms  and 
polypes,  the  crabs  and  corallines,  which  feed  the 
fishes ;  and  these,  in  their  turn,  sustain  legions  of 
cormorants  and  penguins,  of  seals  and  porpoises,  as 
well  as  the  less  dexterous  human  fishery  on  the 
shore  ;  so  that  Mr  Darwin  is  probably  correct  in 
his  surmise,  that  the  felling  of  a  tropical  forest 
would  not  be  so  f;ital  to  animal  existence  as  the 
destruction  of  this  gigantic  "  kelp."     "  0  Lord, 


FUEGIA.  109 

how  manifold  are  thy  works !  in  wisdom  hast  thou 
made  them  all :  the  earth  is  full  of  thy  riches. 
So  is  this  great  and  wide  sea,  wherein  are  things 
creeping  innumerable,  both  small  and  great  beasts. 
These  wait  all  upon  thee ;  that  thou  may  est  give 
them  their  meat  m  due  season.  That  thou  givest 
them  they  gather  :  thou  openest  thine  hand,  they 
are  filled  with  good." 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Fuegian  Archipelago  have 
sometimes  been  called  Pesherais,  from  a  word 
which  some  of  them  are  constantly  using.  In  the 
classification  of  the  Human  Families  they  have 
been  named  "  the  Ichthyophagi,"  or  Fish-eaters  of 
Tierra  del  Fuego.*  Of  course  they  are  South 
American  Indians,  and  they  belong  to  the  Arau- 
canian  division  of  the  great  Andian  race.  They 
are  not  only  the  nearest  neighbours,  but  are  un- 
doubtedly of  the  closest  kindred,  to  the  Patagonian 
inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  continent ;  but  they 
are  intellectually  and  physically  inferior  to  these 
stately  specimens  of  mankind.  Many  of  them 
have  trunks  proportionate  to  a  six-foot  stature : 
but  their  indolent  squatting  existence  has  dwarfed 
their  extremities.  Their  colour  is  something  be- 
tween dark  copper  and  brown.  Captain  FitzRoy 
compares  it  to  "  very  old  mahogany."  j  But 
owing   to  the  wood-smoke  with   which  they  are 

*  See  Pricliard's  Natural  History  of  Man,  Second  Edition,  p. 
450 ;  and  Prichard's  History  of  Mankind,  vol.  v. 

t.  Yiya.c<^s  of  tho  Arlv.^Titnre  ni^d  T?.'^n£;lp,  vol.  ii.  p.  137. 


110  PUEGIA. 

saturated,  the  oil  and  blubber  with  which  they  are 
smeared,  and  the  earths,  white,  red,  and  black, 
with  which  they  are  painted,  it  is  difficult  to  ascer- 
tain exactly  a  Fuegian  complexion.  Like  their 
bodies,  their  heads  are  large.  These  heads  are 
oblate  spheroids,  with  long  jet  hair  hanging  straight 
down  on  either  side,  but  cropped  away  over  the 
brow.  The  forehead  is  very  low,  but,  like  the  face, 
it  is  broad.  The  black  eyes  are  oval,  drawn  to- 
wards the  temples,  and  have  usually  an  expression 
of  simple  good-humour.  The  nose  is  not  handsome : 
flat  and  thick,  with  large  nostrils,  it  is  concave 
in  profile  ;  and  it  is  well  supported  by  a  mouth  of 
great  width,  which  closes  in  a  straight  line,  and  opens 
in  an  ample  ellipse.  The  beaux  of  the  antipodes 
do  not  fancy  long  beards,  and  what  little  hair 
shews  itself  on  the  chin  or  the  eye-brows  is  usually 
extracted  with  tweezers  made  of  two  mussehshells. 
As  already  mentioned,  from  constantly  crouching 
in  their  huts  and  canoes,  their  legs  are  crooked  and 
stunted ;  but  still,  they  are  by  no  means  deficient 
in  agility,  and,  in  trials  of  strength,  some  of  them 
were  more  than  a  match  for  an  English  sailor.* 

Their  clothing  is  scanty.  By  the  same  provi- 
dential arrangement  which  coats  the  whale  in 
frozen    seas    with    oil,    the   Fuegian    is    fortified 

*  For  a  minute  description  see  a  paper  by  Mr  Wilson  in  the 
appendix  to  the  2d  vol.  of  tlie  "  Voyages  of  the  Adventure  and 
Beagle."  Portraits  of  Fuegians  may  be  seen  there,  and  in  the  folio 
atlas  of  plates  to  Cook's  Last  Voyage. 


FUBGIA.  Ill 

against  his  inclement  sky  by  an  abundant  develop- 
ment of  tlie  adipose  tissue;  and  though  his  sea- 
otter  or  guanaco  cloak  is  sometimes  scanty,  in  ad- 
miring his  hardihood,  we  must  not  forget  that 
inside  his  skin  he  wears  a  thick  under-clothine;  of 
non-conducting  fat.  Hence  these  islanders  some- 
times exhibit  feats,  the  recital  of  which  is  enouo-h 
to  make  us  shiver.  In  the  coldest  mid-winter  they 
may  be  seen  diving  for  sea-eggs ;  and  it  was  on  a 
dark  night,  when  the  thermometer  was  at  28°, 
that  some  of  them  swam  from  the  shore,  and,  from 
its  moorings  alongside,  cut  away  the  ship's  boat  of 
the  Adelaide. 

Nothing  can  be  more  wretched  than  their  habi- 
tations. When  a  family  lands  from  its  canoe,  the 
first  care  of  the  women,  who  are  the  only  workers, 
is  to  build  a  house.  For  this  purpose  they  cut 
down  twenty  or  thirty  trees,  and  arranging  them 
in  a  circle,  with  the  narrow  ends  resting  on  each 
other,  like  the  sheaves  in  a  shock  of  corn,  they  tie 
them  together  at  the  top,  putting  a  little  thatch  or 
a  few  skins  on  the  windward  side,  and  leaving  one 
entrance  toward  the  sea  and  another  toward  the 
forest.  There  they  kindle  a  fire,  and  there  they 
huddle  together  night  and  day  in  stormy  weather  ; 
and  there  they  tarry  till  they  have  devoured  all 
the  food  of  the  district,  and  it  is  time  to  seek  an- 
other settlement. 

They  are  not  without  a  taste  for  ornament,  nor 
arc    thcv    (Mitirrly    drvoid    of   ingenuity.       Tliey 


112  PUEGIA. 

usually  adorn  their  hair  with  a  fillet  of  sinewy 
threads,  elaborately  and  not  inelegantly  plaited ; 
and  on  great  occasions  this  fillet  is  pranked  out 
with  birds'  feathers  or  bits  of  red  cloth  obtained 
from  the  sailors.  They  are  fond  of  bracelets  and 
necklaces.  These  they  make  from  shells  or  the 
small  bones  of  animals ;  or,  failing  beads  and  but- 
tons, from  little  chips  of  crockery.  When  shells 
are  used,  they  are  drilled  so  neatly  that  the  process 
must  require  both  skill  and  care.  The  Spanish 
voyager  Cordova  speaks  Avith  admiration  of  a  sort 
of  jar  or  basket  which  he  found  amongst  them, 
entirely  formed  of  bark,  and  with  the  bottom  so 
accurately  sewed  in,  that  it  could  carry  water 
without  leaking.*  But,  crazy  as  they  are,  their 
canoes  are  perhaps  a  still  more  wonderful  specimen 
of  needle-work.  These  also  are  composed  of  the 
bark  of  trees.  The  main  bulk  may  be  the  bark  of 
one  single  beech  ;  but  in  order  to  complete  it,  a 
great  many  patches  and  a  large  amount  of  stitch- 
ing are  requisite.  With  grass  for  oakum,  and  clay 
for  pitch,  and  with  thongs  instead  of  nails,  the 
builder  soon  finishes  a  boat  which,  after  its  own 
fashion,  is  a  triumph  of  naval  architecture.  As 
long  as  it  can  carry  paddlers  as  well  as  pumpers,  it 
is  considered  sea-worthy  ;  but  as  soon  as  it  requires 
all  hands  to  bail  it,  they  think  it  time  to  abandon 
it,  and  a  new  one  is  built  or  stolen. 

Although  their  comforts  aio  so  few,  they   are 

*  Cordova's  Voyage  to  the  Straits  of  Magellau. 


FUEGIA.  llo 

well  provided  with  offensive  weapons.  They  have 
spears,  and  bows  and  arrows,  and  shngs  which 
they  use  Avith  such  precision  as  nearly  to  equal  in 
effect  an  ordinary  musket.  Besides,  many  of  them 
are  furnished  with  the  Patagonian  bolas — a  chain- 
shot  of  formidable  character.  It  consists  of  two 
round  stones,  covered  with  leather,  and  fastened  to 
the  two  ends  of  a  string  about  eight  feet  long. 
One  stone  is  held  in  the  hand  whilst  the  other  is 
whirled  round  the  head  till  it  has  acquired  sufficient 
velocity ;  and  then  both  are  hurled  at  the  object. 
Should  it  strike  the  legs  of  an  ostrich  or  guanaco, 
it  instantly  twists  tightly  around  them  and  holds 
the  creature  in  fetters  till  the  huntsman  comes  up. 

Yet,  with  all  his  weapons,  it  is  a  scanty  subsist- 
ence which  the  Fuegian  secures.  The  sea  around 
him  is  teeming  with  food,  but  he  has  neither  net 
nor  angle  ;  and  it  is  only  Avhen  he  is  lucky  enough 
to  spear  a  rock-salmon,  or  when  he  can  get  a  suffi- 
ciency of  a  little  simpleton  fish  which  allows  itself 
to  be  spirited  out  of  the  water  by  a  baited  but 
bookless  line,  that  this  Ichthyophagous  Indian  de- 
serves his  name.  But  if  he  is  not  a  clever  fisher- 
man, he  is  a  cunning  bird-catcher.  In  his  fowhng 
excursions  he  is  attended  by  a  knowing  little  dog, 
half  fox,  half  terrier  ;  and,  if  it  is  a  moonlit  night, 
the  sportsman  may  be  descried  on  the  beach  near 
the  roosts  of  tlio  sea-birds,  and  waiting  till  his  four- 
footed  accomplice  returns  witli  a  dead  duck  in  his 
jaws,"  whicli  lie  instantly  doposits  at  his  master's 


114  FUEGIA. 

feet,  and  then  scampers  off  in  search  of  another. 
This  ^well-trained  retriever,  though  an  assiduous 
barker  at  home,  has  the  sense  to  carry  on  tliis 
sport  in  the  deepest  silence ;  and  the  sleeping 
spoon-bill  is  jerked  from  his  perch  without  ever 
dreaming  of  danger.  They  have  also  a  plan  of 
their  own  for  catching  petrels.  Having  first  se- 
cured one  with  a  string  to  his  leg,  they  lower  hira 
into  any  crevice  where  petrels  are  known  to  breed. 
The  old  birds  are  indignant  at  the  stranj^er's  intru- 
sion,  and  fall  on  him  with  such  blind  fury  that 
they  allow  themselves  to  be  drawn  out  of  the  hole, 
when  they  are  instantly  transferred  to  the  fowler's 
basket.  But  birds  are  not  always  to  be  procured, 
and  even  sea-eggs  are  not  attainable  in  stormy 
weather.  For  a  great  period  of  every  year  these 
poor  islanders  are  entirely  dependent  on  mussels, 
limpets,  and  similar  shell-fish ;  and,  every  time 
that  the  tide  retires,  tlie  whole  population  is  spread 
over  the  shore,  rummaging  for  this  sorry  subsist- 
ence. Low-water  is  the  meal-time  of  the  dogs,  as 
well  as  their  masters  ;  and  it  is  amusing  to  notice 
the  adroitness  with  Avhich  these  sharp-witted  crea- 
tures detach  the  unwary  limpet  from  his  moorings. 
As  soon  as  this  pasture  is  eaten  up,  these  nomads 
of  tlie  beach  launch  their  canoes,  and  paddle  off  in 
quest  of  new  supplies.  Sometimes  they  are  so 
lucky  as  to  discover  a  stranded  whale  or  a  dead 
sea-lion  ;  and,  however  "  high  "  such  venison  may 
bo,   it  is  always  welcome,   and  imparts  a  sudden 


PUEGIA.  115 

plumpness  to  the  fortunate  finders.  Of  course, 
such  prizes  are  rare ;  and,  hke  most  savages,  the 
life  of  a  Fuegian  is  an  alternatidh  of  occasional 
feasts  with  long  intervals  of  famine.  In  the  des- 
peration of  hunger  it  is  fearful  to  think  of  the 
expedients  to  which  he  is  occasionally  driven. 
There  can  be  no  doubt,  however,  that  these  In- 
dians are  cannibals,  and  that  when  other  subsist- 
ence ftiils,  "  they  kill  and  devour  their  old  women 
before  they  kill  their  dogs."  Those  who  fall  in 
battle  are  in  like  manner  devoured  by  the  victors. 

The  intellectual  capacity  of  these  savages  is, 
probably,  small ;  but  their  powers  of  mimicry  are 
amazing.  A  long  English  sentence  deliberately 
red  they  will  repeat  with  the  utmost  precision ; 
and  grotesque  attitudes  or  grimaces  many  of  them 
can  reproduce  with  a  comic  gravity  worthy  of 
Listen  or  Matthews.  Shameless  greed  and  syste- 
matic thieving  are  universal  vices.  As  soon  as  a 
canoe  comes  within  hail  of  a  ship,  the  well-known 
cry,  "  Yammer  schooner  "  (Give  me),  is  set  up,  and 
at  everything  given  them  they  clutch  and  stow  it 
into  their  basket  without  one  look  or  utterance  of 
gratitude.  Nothing  escapes  their  httle  glancing 
predaceous  eyes;  and,  but  for  the  utmost  vigilance, 
nothing  would  escape  their  active  fingers.  Once 
and  again  they  proved  too  cunning  for  the  watch 
of  a  man-of-war,  and  succeeded  in  abstracting  valu- 
able boats  belonging  to  the  surveying  expedition  of 
the  British  Admiralty ;  and  when  a  native  gentle- 


116  FUBGIA. 

man  Lad  been  paying  a  visit  on  board,  before  he 
returned  to  his  barge,  it  was  thought  no  breach 
of  etiquette  to  examine  his  cloak  for  tea-kettles  and 
other  trinkets.  As  Mungo  Park  experienced  in 
Africa,  traces  of  gentleness  and  tenderness  may  be 
found  among  the  women  ;  but  the  mercies  of  the 
men  are  cruel.  On  the  slightest  provocation,  the 
roguish  simper  can  be  exchanged  for  a  scowl 
of  fiendish  ferocity ;  and  when  exasperated,  or 
brought  to  bay,  they  fight  with  more  fury  than 
wild  beasts.  The  men  are  surly  tyrants ;  the 
women  are  laborious  slaves.  The  softenino-  infiu- 
ence  of  the  domestic  chai'ities  is  scarcely  known  ; 
and  an  incident  related  by  Commodore  Byron 
shews  the  fearful  moroseness  to  which  depraved 
humanity  sometimes  subsides.* 

Of  the  religious  belief  of  these  savages  little  is 
known.  Their  divinity  appears  to  be  a  great 
black  man,  who  frequents  the  dim  trackless  woods 

*  "  Our  cacique  and  Lis  wife  liad  goue  off  in  their  canoe,  when  she 
dived  for  sea-eggs ;  but,  not  meeting  with  great  success,  they  re- 
turned a  good  deal  out  of  humour.  A  little  boy  of  theirs,  about 
three  years  old,  whom  they  appeared  to  be  doatingly  fond  of,  watch- 
ing for  his  father  and  mother's  return,  ran  into  the  surf  to  meet 
them  :  the  father  handed  a  basket  of  sea-eggs  to  the  child,  which 
being  too  heavy  for  him  to  carry,  he  let  it  fall ;  upon  which  tlie 
father  jumped  out  of  the  canoe,  and  catching  the  boy  up  in  his  arms, 
dashed  him  with  the  utmost  violence  against  the  stones.  The  poor 
little  creature  lay  motionless  and  bleeding,  and  in  that  condition  was 
taken  up  by  the  mother ;  but  died  soon  after.  She  appeared  in- 
consolable for  sometime;  but  the  brute,  his  father,  shewed  little 
conccm  about  it." — NarruUvc  of  the  Hon.  John  liijron,  1768,  page 

iiy. 


FUEGiA.  117 

of  the  interior  ;  who  is  very  malignant  and  power- 
ful ;  and  who  knows  everything  that  is  done  or 
spoken.  They  are  very  superstitious.  They  have 
great  faith  in  dreams.  They  will  not  for  any  con- 
sideration allow  a  stranger  to  cut  off  a  lock  of  their 
hair  ;  and  they  think  it  extremely  unlucky  to  kill 
the  young  sea-birds.  "  Oh,  Mr  Bynoe,  very  bad 
to  shoot  little  duck — come  wind — come  rain — blow 
— very  much  blow,"  was  the  solemn  remonstrance 
of  one  of  them  to  a  gentleman  who  had  killed  some 
very  young  ducklings  as  zoological  specimens. 
They  never  speak  of  the  dead.  When  a  boy, 
hereafter  to  be  mentioned,  was  questioned  about 
his  dead  father,  he  was  very  unhappy,  and  refused 
to  answer :  "  jSTo  good  talk ;  my  country  never 
talk  of  dead  man." 

Embruted  as  are  these  savages,  they  are  not 
sunk  beyond  recovery.  Through  the  mercy  of  our 
God,  there  is  at  this  moment  on  the  earth  a  power 
well  able  to  cure  the  worst  Avoes  of  Fuegia.  True, 
they  are  not  an  inviting  race ;  but  they  are  none 
the  less  a  fac-simile  of  our  British  forefathers.  Sir 
James  Mackintosh  was  born  in  a  northern  latitude 
exactly  corresponding  to  Cape  Horn  in  the  south, 
and  his  ancestors  lived  in  a  hut  without  window 
or  chimney,  with  a  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  floor, 
with  a  pile  of  mussel-shells  at  the  threshold,  and 
with  smoked  fish  and  deer's  flesh  hanmno-  from 
the  rafters;  and  when  they  wished  to  cross  an 
arm  of  the  sea,   they  waited  for  a  day  of  calm 


118  FUEaiA. 

weather  Avhich  would  not  endano-er  their  wicker 
coracle.  The  ancestors  of  Davj  and  Newton  lived 
in  forests  almost  as  sombre  as  the  beech-woods  of 
Narborough's  Land.  Thej  wore  cloaks  of  bull  or 
badger's  skin,  like  the  otter  or  guanaco  robes  of 
Navarin  Island ;  and  they  anointed  their  persons, 
and  pipeclayed  their  faces,  in  a  truly  Fuegian 
fashion.  The  ancestors  of  Wesley  and  Wilberforce 
worshipped  a  devil,  and  were  glad  to  propitiate  his 
wrath  by  flinging  their  infants  into  the  fire.  But 
Christianity  has  wrought  for  Britain  the  best  of 
miracles.  If  it  has  not  brightened  the  skies  and 
converted  these  islands  into  new  Ilesperides;  it 
has  shed  a  balm  into  the  moral  atmosphere,  and  it 
has  transformed  the  population.  It  has  made  us, 
as  a  people,  honest,  hard-working,  and  humane.  It 
Las  made  a  future  existence  a  familiar  idea,  and  it 
has  made  the  Most  High  a  not  unfamiliar  presence. 
It  has  given  us  tastes,  aspirations,  and  affections, 
which  a  nation  of  atheists  or  pagans  can  never 
know.  And  whilst  all  this  has  been  effected  with 
only  a  small  per-centage  of  practical  religionists  in 
our  population,  and,  we  may  add,  with  only  a  small 
per-centage  of  Bible  Christianity  in  our  practical 
religion,  it  has  done  enough  to  teach  us  that  the 
only  thing  needed  to  make  any  land  "  a  delight- 
some land,"  is  the  gospel  in  ascendancy. 

In  the  year  1831  there  were  three  Fuegians  in 
England.  They  were  brought  to  this  country  by 
Captain  FitzRoy,  K.N.,  and  the  hope  was  enter- 


PUEGIA.  119 

tained  that  they  might  learn  our  language,  and 
acquire  the  habits  of  civilisation,  so  as  to  introduce 
them,  on  their  return,  among  their  own  compatriots. 
One  of  them  was  a  full-grown  man,  York  jNlinster, 
a  gruff  and  surly  felloAV,  who  could  never  bo  in- 
duced to  learn  anything.  Jemmy  Button  was  a 
good-natured  boy  of  no  great  capacity  ;  and  Fuegia 
Basket  was  a  rather  pleasing  and  very  intelligent 
girl.  Considerable  interest  was  felt  in  these  visi- 
tors from  the  antipodes,  and  even  the  king  and 
queen  expressed  a  desire  to  see  them.  They  were 
accordingly  taken  to  the  palace,  and  were  received 
with  all  the  gentle  kindness  so  characteristic  of 
Queen  Adelaide.  Captain  FitzRoy  consigned  them 
to  the  care  of  a  schoolmaster  at  Walthamstow ;  and 
after  a  few  months,  accompanied  by  Mr  Matthews, 
a  missionary,  he  carried  them  back  to  their  native 
isles.  It  may  be  questioned  whether  their  resi- 
dence in  England  was  sufficiently  long ;  and  it  is 
likely  that,  had  a  selection  been  practicable,  more 
promising  pupils  might  have  been  found  than  York 
Minster  and  Jemmy  Button.  At  all  events,  the  ex- 
periment was  very  unproductive.  On  landing  in 
their  own  country,  York  Minster  married  Fuegia 
Basket,  and  being  a  powerful,  resolute  man,  it  is  pos- 
sible that  he  may  have  been  able  to  preserve  from 
his  rapacious  neighbours  the  implements  and  manu- 
factured articles  with  which  he  was  freely  supplied 
But  poor  Jemmy  was  soon  victimised.  His  goods 
were  stolen,  and  his  little  garden  was  trodden  down ; 


120  FTJEGIA. 

justifying  his  verdict,  "  My  people  very  bad ;  no 
sabe  nothing  ;  my  people  very  great  fool."  And  as 
the  violence  of  the  people  forced  Mr  Matthews  to 
return  on  board,  there  is  too  much  reason  to  fear 
that,  left  to  themselves,  his  scholars  would  soon 
relapse  into  the  surrounding  barbarism. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

iirst  IqHs. 


M7  wanderiugs  thovi  hast  mimbered ; 
Even  every  tear  mine  eyes  have  shed 
Thy  vial  holds  ; 
All  in  the  folds 
Of  thy  large  volume  read. 

Fsalm  Ivi.  8. — George  Sandys. 


If  our  lives  are  preserved,  and  our  attempt  prospered,  we  shall 
next  New  Year's  Day  be  in  India.  We  shall  no  more  see  our  kind 
friends  around  us,  or  enjoy  the  conveniences  of  civilised  life,  or  go  to 
the  house  of  God  with  those  that  keep  holy  day;  but  swarthy  coun- 
tenances will  everywhere  meet  our  eye,  the  jargon  of  an  unknown 
tongue  will  assail  our  ears,  and  we  shall  witness  the  assembling  of 
the  lie'atlien  to  the  worship  of  idol  gods.  We  shall  be  weary  of  the 
world,  and  wish  for  wings  like  a  dove.  We  shall  probably  experi- 
ence seaons  when  we  shall  be  "  e.weeding  sorrowful,  even  unto 
death." — Dr  Judson. 


When  Dr  Judson  wrote  to  his  future  wife  the 
words  just  quoted,  he  did  not  know  how  terribly 
the  prognostic  would  be  fulfilled.  He  did  not  fore- 
see the  perils  of  the  Burmese  war,  and  the  unima- 
gined  horrors  of  the  death-prison  at  Kangoon. 
And  it  is  well  for  us  that  there  is  no  Agabus  to 
reveal  the  tribulations  through  which  each  must 
pass  to  the  Kingdom,  or  to  set  fully  before  us  the 
dangers  and  hardships  which  attend  a  new  under- 
taking. 

Il>was  with  a  cheerful  eye  that  Mr  Williams  and 
his  comrades  surveyed  the  scene  of  tbeir  projected 
campaign.  But,  as  we  have  already  said,  they  saw 
it  to  advantage.  It  was  midsummer ;  and,  as  long 
as  the  ship  remained  in  sight,  the  natives  wore 
their  summer  faces,  and  appeared  mild,  and  almost 
friendly.  The  voyagers  arrived  in  health  and 
vigor ;  and,  in  the  excitement  of  strange  circum- 
stances, the  perils  and  difficulties  of  their  under- 
taking were  materially  disguised. 


124  FIRST  TOILS. 

It  was  on  the  5th  of  December  1850  that  the 
Ocean  Queen  cast  anchor  in  Banner  Roads ;  and, 
resuming  Mr  Williams's  Journal,  we  shall  now 
trace  the  first  proceedings  of  the  missionary  pil- 
grims. 

"  December  5. — At  noon  we  proceeded  in  the 
sliip's  gig  to  a  small  island  called  Dothan,  lying 
betwixt  Garden  and  Picton  Islands,  Captain 
Gardiner  had  fixed  on  it  as  the  site  of  our  intended 
dwelling-house,  tl linking  it  capable  of  being  made 
peculiarly  secure  from  its  position  and  shape.  Here 
wo  read  an  appropriate  psalm,  and  oifered  prayer, 
and  sano'  the  doxologv.  The  natives  had  followed 
lis,  and  they  stood  gazing  with  wonder  whilst  we 
were  so  engaged.  One  passed  into  the  centre  of 
our  circle,  and  now  and  then  made  an  observation  ; 
and  when  we  sang  they  all  joined  heartily  with 
ns.  We  then  took  possession  of  the  island,  and  cut 
away  the  trees  for  a  place  where  to  fix  our  tent; 
but  afterwards,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  upon  more 
consideration  given,  we  abandoned  Dothan,  'and 
chose  our  site  in  Garden  Island.  Here  accordingly 
the  axe  was  industriously  used,  and  some  largo 
timber  was  cleared  away.  In  the  course  of  the 
afternoon,  I  shot  a  goose  and  a  duck.  In  the  course 
of  the  evening,  what  from  being  very  tired  and 
cold,  and  the  rush  of  impressions  being  very  great 
and  forcible  upon  my  mind,  my  whole  body  seemed 
to  shrink  from  the  hardships  that  were  palpably 
before  me ;  and  my  flesh,  with  a  cowardly  tremor. 


FIRST  TOILS.  125 

seemed  to  protest  against  the  difficulties,  the  trials, 
and  the  dano;ers.  Whilst  I  felt  this,  I  knew  it  was 
but  the  weakness  of  the  flesh,  and  although  I  could 
not,  under  its  present  weariness,  quiet  its  alarms,  yet 
I  felt  a  firm  and  quiet  resolution,  if  need  be,  to 
sacrifice  the  flesh  to  the  cause  of  God  and  humanity. 
It  was  a  trial  and  a  war  between  the  two  ;  but  the 
spirit  within,  strengthened  by  grace,  ofiered  the 
flesh  upon  the  altar  of  sacrifice.  Praise  God,  never 
did  I  feel  more  sensibly  how  God  provides  grace 
against  the  day  of  trial  than  in  this  instance. 

"  Tuesday,  December  10. — To-day  the  first  oppor- 
tunity presents,  of  recording  the  events  which  have 
marked  our  career.     On  Friday  last,  early  in  the 
day,  having  selected  a  spot  on  Garden  Island  ad- 
mirably adapted  for  our  purposes,  we  conveyed  to 
it  bedding,  apparel,  provisions,  and  cooking  utensils, 
and   engaged  ourselves  most  actively  in  clearing 
away  a  spot  sufficiently  large  for  our  tents.     These 
we  erected,  and  by  nightfall  had  everything  pretty 
comfortable.     AVe  had  two  tents — one  for  the  men, 
another  for  ourselves — and  between  the  two  a  cook- 
ing-house or  kitchen,  made  of  poles  we  had  cut 
down  and  covered  with  oiled  canvas.     The  floor  of 
our  tent  was  covered  with  cork;   over  this,   oiled 
canvas,  which  thus  made  a  dry  place  for  our  beds. 
We  had  also  begun  a  fence  around  our  tents,  which, 
on  the  following  day,  by  the  assistance  of  some  of 
our  ship's  company,  we  enlarged  and  completed,  so 
as  to  be  surrounded  on  all  sides  except  an  opening 


126  FIRST  TOILS. 

from  the  beach.  It  was  amusing  to  see  us  all  at 
work,  each  one  plying  the  woodman's  handicraft ; 
right  and  left,  blows  were  being  dealt,  and  the 
entano-led  forest  resounded  to  our  hatchets.  We 
piled  up  a  huge  fire,  and  regaled  ourselves  with 
provisions  kindly  sent  us  from  the  ship  by  our 
excellent  captain.  We  are  indeed  greatly  indebted 
to  him  for  unexampled  kindness,  he  having  con- 
stantly manifested  the  most  generous  disposition 
and  an  affectionate  interest  in  all  that  concerned  us ; 
ever  ready  to  assist  us,  and  most  hospitably  and 
abundantly  entertaining  us  during  our  whole  voyage. 
The  name  of  Captain  Cooper,  of  the  Ocean  Queen, 
deserves  to  be  remembered  by  us  with  respect  and 
affectionate  gratitude. 

"  We  were  undisturbed  by  the  natives  the  whole 
of  the  day,  and  congratulated  ourselves  on  this 
fortunate  circumstance,  as  we  hoped,  by  their  not 
seeing  our  possessions,  they  would  not  be  so  excited 
to  molest  and  pilfer  from  us.  By  eleven  at  night 
we  were  all  so  far  straight  as  to  be  able  to  retire 
to  rest,  which  all  of  us  did,  excepting  the  Captain 
and  mj^self.  We  had  agreed  that  each  should  keep 
a  two  hours'  watch  the  ni^ht  throuo-h,  and  this  the 
Captain  proposed  should  be  commenced  by  himself 
takino;  the  first  watch,  commencing'  at  ten  o'clock 
every  night.  The  Captain  accordingly  rigged  him- 
self in  his  sou'-wester  and  india-rubber  overcoat 
and  overalls  ;  and  thus  armed  against  the  rain,  for 
it   was  pouring  with   Fucgian   earnest,  he  sallied 


^- 


FlItST  TOILS.  127 

forth ;    and   about   half-past    twelve,   I    succeeded 
liira. 

"  I  had  not  lain  doAvn,  on  account  of  the  short- 
ness of  time  before  commencing  my  watch  ;  and 
now  that  I  was  alone  in  the  dead  hours  of  nio-ht, 
surrounded  by  the  dark  masses  of  wood  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  rippling  waters  on  the  other,  with 
the  i-ain  pouring  in  heavy  showers,  and  after  a 
fatiguing  day,  I  could  not  overcome  the  weakness 
of  my  frail  heart,  and  I  felt  oppressed.  The  time 
of  my  watch  hung  heavily  upon  me  ;  and  I  almost 
counted  the  minutes  as  they  passed.  Strange  cries 
broke  upon  my  ear  ;  the  penguin's  harsh  croak, 
with  the  shrill  whistle  of  some  sea-bird,  and  many 
sounds  that  I  could  scarce  account  for,  all  tending 
to  give  an  extraordinary  character  to  the  scene.  I 
felt  no  fear,  neither  did  I  wish  to  be  differently 
circumstanced  ;  but  I  was  wearv,  and  I  wished 
heartily  for  rest.  Two  o'clock  came,  and  then  was 
poor  Mr  Maidment's  turn.  He  had  thrown  himself 
down  on  his  bed  with  his  clothes  on,  and  now  he 
engaged  with  alacrity  in  the  duty  which  fell  to  him. 
Selfish  nature  was  glad  of  the  opportunity  to  ex- 
change positions  even  thus  with  a  friend  and  a 
brother,  and  to  comfort  itself  in  the  warmth  and 
repose  of  bed.  I  slept  soundly,  and  awoke  the  next 
morning  ready  to  resume  the  labor  of  the  day. 
We  persevered  all  Saturday  in  completing  our  fence, 
and  arrano-ino-  matters  to  our  sa-tisfaction,  and  still 
we  continued  unmolested  by  any  of  t];0  natives, — a 


128  FIRST  TOILS, 

matter  somewhat  surprisino-,  had  wo  not  hence 
conjectured  that  they  were  going  to  give  the 
intellio-ence  of  our  arrival  to  others  of  their  ac- 
quaintance. 

"  Toward  the  evening,  however,  we  had  intima- 
tion of  their  approach  ;  and  three  of  them,  whom 
Ave  had  before  seen  alongside  the  vessel,  came  up 
to  us.  They  appeared  no  way  surprised  at  what 
they  beheld,  but  greeted  us  with  apparent  good- 
]iature,  yarnmer-schoonering  after  everything  they 
saw,  and  moving  in  a  sidelong  manner  towards  the 
enclosure  of  our  tents,  anxious  to  look  in ;  but  we 
intimated  our  disapproval  of  this,  and  they  were 
very  tractable.  These  three  were  very  peaceable 
and  quiet,  imitating  every  word  we  spoke,  catching 
at  any  oddity  they  observed  in  our  manner  or 
doings,  and  laughing,  and  seeming  altogether  so 
well  disposed,  that  we  had  good  hope  of  maintain- 
ing a  friendly  footing  with  them,  and  have  no 
reason  to  fear  their  molesting  us.  As  the  evening 
grew  late,  Captain  Gardiner  made  signs  to  them  to 
leave  us,  intimating  that  it  was  time  to  go  to  sleep, 
by  laying  his  head  on  his  hand,  and  then  gently 
directing  them  to  the  entrance.  They  readily  per- 
ceived our  wish,  and  without  hesitation  departed. 

"  We  had  not  provided  meat  for  our  food  this  day. 
For  this  purpose  I  went  out  witli  my  gun  (for  we 
have  first  to  shoot  or  fish,  before  Ave  can  dine) ;  and 
having  brought  back  a  goose  and  a  duck,  a  stew 
Avas  made  of  these,  with  the  addition  of  some  wild 


FIRST  TOILS.  129 

celery  Tve  found  in  the  woods;  and  having  finisiied 
the  day  witli  prayer,  we  again  took  our  repose  by 
sleep. 

"  Forcibly  convinced  that  we  ought  not  to  suifer 
the  Captain  to  share  the  duty  of  watching,  I 
begged  him  that  he  would  alloAV  us  to  divide  it 
entirely  among  ourselves,  which,  after  some  trouble 
and  entreaty,  he  at  length  consented  to  do.  At 
two  o'clock  I  was  called  to  take  my  post.  The 
morning  was  fine  and  quite  light,  and  everything 
around  wore  a  pleasing  aspect.  The  two  hours  I 
now  spent,  I  trust  1  shall  never  forget.  I  felt  the 
precious  influence  of  the  Spirit  of  grace  and  love 
upon  my  heart,  and  never  were  my  impressions  of 
divine  truths  so  forcible  ;  never  did  I  feel  more 
sensibly  the  vanity  and  littleness  of  all  human 
things,  save  as  they  bear  reference  to  the  eternal 
and  invisible  kingdom  of  God.  I  was  much  affect- 
ed by  the  thought,  that  what  the  poor  natives  of 
these  islands  were  to  us,  so  thousands  and  tens  of 
thousands  of  the  inhabitants  of  so-styled  civilised 
lands  were  in  God's  sight — savages  in  their  enmity 
against  a  just  and  good  and  holy  God.  I  clearly 
saw  that  I  had  not  so  much  danger  to  dread  at  the 
hands  of  these  poor  wretched  natives,  as  at  the 
hands  of  polished  and  civilised  people :  those  would 
only  assault  my  body,  and  rob  me  of  a  few  earthly 
comforts,  whilst  the  latter,  by  their  influence  and 
example,  would  rob  me  of  an  everlasting  salvation; 
My  heart,  by  the  reflection,  was  drawn  out  in  behalf 

I 


130  FIRST  TOILS. 

of  my  native  land,  and,  alas !  I  felt  that  there 
was  spiritual  wickedness  in  high  places,  and  cor- 
ruption Avorking  at  the  very  core  of  human  society. 
The  blessing  of  God's  presence  in  a  holy  frame  of 
mind,  with  great  joy,  was  felt  as  I  never  felt  before 
in  like  manner.  The  time  very  quickly  passed 
away,  very  differentl}'"  from  the  night  before. 
Afterwards,  whilst  in  bed,  I  was  greatly  led  out  in 
spirit  to  praise  and  bless  God. 

"  The  following  day,  Sunday,  was  spent  very 
happily  and  profitably,  I  was  engaged  most  of 
the  day  with  my  Bible,  and  in  close  communion 
with  God,  blessed  in  the  sense  of  his  presence  and 
favor.  During  the  morning  services,  just  as  Ave 
commenced  them,  the  three  natives  wc  had  hitherto 
seen  came  again  and  either  sat  or  stood  at  our  tent 
door.  There  they  remained,  for  the  most  part 
very  quietly,  whilst  we  Avere  engaged  in  Avorship, 
little  thinking  hoAv  nearly  they  themselves  stood 
concerned  in  Avhat  Ave  Averc  doing.  All  things 
went  on  very  quietly,  and  nothing  occurred  to  dis- 
turb us  until  late  in  the  afternoon,  Avhcn  Ave  Avere 
startled  at  the  mournful  yelling  cry  of  some  of  the 
Avomen,  from  their  canoes,  like  the  prolonged  hoAvl 
of  a  dog.  The  Fuegians,  who  were  Avith  us  at  the 
time,  immediately  pricked  up  their  ears,  and  mak- 
ing sijins  to  us  Avhich  we  understood  to  mean  that 
As^e  Averc  not  to  folloAv  them,  they  departed  in 
haste,  and  proceeded  up  to  the  head  of  Banner 
CoA'e,  toward  the  outlet  leading  to  Banner  l\oafl!=5. 


FIRST  TOILS.  131 

Soon  we  perceived,  by  the  help  of  our  glasses,  that 
some  strangers  were  joimng  them.  We  noticed 
that  our  Fuegians  took  their  spears  with  them 
before  they  went  to  meet  them,  and  we  imagined 
that  the  women  might  at  first  apprehend  that  the 
strangers  were  their  foes. 

"  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours  appeared  the 
new-comers,  who,  we  afterwards  had  reason  to 
conclude,  were  from  Navarin  Island,  and  of  the 
Yacuna  tribe.  We  were  immediately  sensible  that 
they  were  altogether  a  different  people  from  the 
others.  Their  faces  were  quite  blackened  over, 
and  they  were  sturdy  and  audacious  in  their  bear- 
ing, and,  as  we  soon  found,  impudent  and  uncon- 
trollable. Unlike  the  former,  they  were  ready  to 
resent  every  refusal  of  their  importunate  demands, 
and  resisted  our  endeavours  to  keep  them  in  check, 
looking  at  us  with  a  most  contemptuous  and  malign 
expression,  and,  by  their  demeanor,  plainly  be- 
speaking mischief.  They  were  very  well  made, 
and,  but  for  the  diabolical  passions  expressed  in 
their  countenances,  really  good-looking  men.  Like 
the  others,  they  had  the  crown  of  the  head  cropped 
close,  and  the  fore  part  like  a  circlet  of  long  hair 
hanging  over  the  face.  Like  the  others,  too, 
they  were  perfectly  naked,  except  the  guanaco 
skin,  which  hung  loosely  over  their  shoulders  and 
back,  and  which  they  occasionally  folded  together 
around  their  arms.  Each  wore  a  necklace  made 
of  small   shells.     With   five  of  thc>e   men  around 


132  FmST  TOILS. 

US,  prying  into  everything,  the  other  three  hav- 
ing now  put  on  a  less  pacific  deportment,  and 
ahnost  entering  our  tent  by  force,  our  situation 
was  not  agreeable.  It  required  all  our  vigilance  to 
watch  their  motions  ;  and,  from  their  whispering 
together,  and  their  bold  attempts  to  look  into  our 
tents,  we  suspected  that  they  were  concocting  some 
plan  of  attack.  However,  after  a  time,  they  left 
us,  Captain  Gardiner  having  very  plainly  expressed 
his  wish  to  that  effect.  After  this — and  upon  the 
conclusion  of  a  very  profitable  service,  during 
which,  as  has  always  been  our  custom  on  the  Sun- 
day evening,  Captain  Gardiner  read  a  very  excel- 
lent and  encouraging  sermon,  and  I  read  from  the 
Scriptures  and  prayed — we  set  the  watch  and  retired 
to  bedr 

■'It  had  been  agreed  that,  on  the  least  occasion  of 
alarm,  a  railway  whistle,  provided  for  tlie  purpose, 
should  be  blown.  Accordingly,  a  little  before  four 
o'clock  on  Monday  morning,  we  were  startled  by 
its  shrill  sound,  and  were  out  of  bed  and  dressed  in 
an  instant.  The  cause  of  the  alarm  was  the  coming 
of  the  two  black-faced  natives.  It  was  raining 
heavily  and  a  very  disagreeable  morning,  and  we 
were  a  little  uncomfortable  at  so  early  an  intru- 
sion. The  Captain  and  Mr  Maidment,  together 
with  poor  Bryant,  who  was  on  watch  for  the  time, 
encountered  them,  I  returning  in  after  a  while,  as 
did  the  Captain  also.  Mr  Maidment  and  Bryant 
being  left,  had  a  great  deal  of  trouble  with  them 


FIRST.  TOILS.  133 

One  of  them  had  the  audacity  to  push  the  former 
quite  off  his  seat,  although  he  is  a  much  bigger 
made  man  than  the  native  himself.  They  also 
AYOukl  have  taken  off  Bryant's  boots,  had  they  not 
been  forcibly  resisted.  After  remaining  two  hours, 
they  grew  tired  and  left  us.  But  in  the  course  of 
the  morning,  whilst  Mr  Maidment  and  "I  were  out 
in  the  boat  with  Captain  Cooper,  the  same  men 
with  some  others  again  visited  our  tents,  and  so 
determined  was  their  conduct,  and  so  utterly  con- 
temptuous, all  but  bordering  upon  open  hostility, 
that  it  was  quite  manifest  we  could  no  longer  stay 
on  shore,  and  Erwin  came  from  Captain  Gardiner 
with  a  message  to  Captain  Cooper,  asking  him  for 
hands  to  assist  him,  as  he  would  at  once  strike  the 
tent?,  and  have  all  our  things  on  board  the  boats. 
This  was  the  original  intention  of  Captain  Gar- 
diner ;  but  he  was  anxious,  while  the  boats  were 
being  got  ready,  and  whilst  the  vessel  was  staying 
with  us,  to  try  an  establishment  on  the  land,  so  as 
to  see  what  disposition  the  natives  would  evince. 
1  was  already  firmly  persuaded  that  the  thing  was 
impracticable,  and  was  convinced  that  to  prolong 
our  stay  another  night  would  be  attended  with  the 
loss  of  our  property,  and  perhaps  of  our  lives.  I 
had  only  intimated  these  my  apprehensions  to 
Captain  Gardiner,  but  did  not  press  my  opinion. 
I  was  therefore  glad  when  I  heard  liis  determina- 
tion to  abandon  the  land,  and  take  to  our  boats. 
For  that  purpose,  last  evening  (Monday)  all  our 


134  FIRST  TOILS. 

things  were  again  brought  on  board  the  Ocean 
Queen,  where  we  shall  remain  for  a  few  days  in 
the  enjoyment  of  all  our  former  comforts,  until  our 
boats  are  ready. 

"  I  should  not  omit  to  add  that  on  Monday  morn- 
ing, at  the  moment  the  whistle  disturbed  me  from 
my  sleep,  after  some  hours  of  troubled  and  anxious 
thought,  I  had  just  begun  to  slumber.  During  the 
night  I  could  not  but  feel  how  portentous  was  our 
present  horizon,  and  what  dangers,  difficulties,  and 
privations  awaited  us  on  all  hands.  I  greatly 
deplored  the  pressure  of  such  thoughts,  and  resisted 
them  over  and  over  again  with  little  success.  But 
my  compassionate  Jesus  helped  me  to  look  up  to 
him  as  ready  to  help  me  even  against  myself,  and 
to  offer  up  myself  again  a  willing  sacrifice  unto 
God.  In  this  frame  of  mind  I  had  sunk  to  sleep ; 
and  when  the  alarm  awoke  me,  it  was  just  at  the 
moment  when  I  seemed  to  be  hearing  the  songs  of 
angels  singing,  'We  live  to  Christ  alone;'  and  oh, 
how  heavenly  was  the  impression  made  upon  my 
heart!  how  sweet  the  sound  still  ringing  in  my 
ears,  *  We  live  to  Christ  alone  ! '  How  full  of  mean- 
ing the  words,  'Angels  live  to  Christ  alone!'  We 
live  to  him  alone,  so  must  you.  Yes,  yes,  my 
heart,  my  soul  responded ;  by  the  grace  of  my 
blessed  Saviour,  I  will  live  to  Christ  alone. 

"  I  should  also  mention  that  whilst  reading  the 
Scriptures  on  Sunday,  every  word  seemed  to  be  a 
volume,  and  truly  1  could  say  that  then  he  opened 


FIRST  TOILS.  135 

to  me  the  Scriptures.  Yea,  I  bless  God,  the  Scrip- 
tures are  become  a  precious  treasure  to  me  now, 
and  I  begin  to  verify  the  saying  of  Christ,  that  we 
must  sell  all  we  have,  before  we  can  go  and  pur- 
chase the  field  containing  the  treasure  of  God's 
grace  and  the  riches  of  his  Son.  Oh!  the  world 
and  Christ  are  opposed  indeed.  We  must  leave  all 
if  we  would  be  his  disciples  :  not  that  it  is  needful 
that  we  should  all  go  into  a  heathen  land  to  find 
the  preciousness  of  Christ  to  our  souls;  but  that  all 
who  seek  after  Christ  should  in  no  respect  be  con- 
formed to  the  world.  God's  love  cannot  be  felt 
and  known  but  where  God's  will  is  obeyed ;  and 
his  will  requires  of  us,  that  we  renounce  the  world, 
the  flesh,  and  the  devil,  and  live  to  God ;  glorify- 
ing Christ  with  our  body  and  soul,  which  are  his. 

"  On  Saturday,  in  company  with  Captain 
Cooper,  we  took  one  of  the  Fuegians  with  us  in 
the  Captain's  gig,  and  cruised  about  for  some 
hours.  I  shot  a  penguin  at  a  considerable  distance 
ofi",  and  this  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  impres- 
sion on  his  mind.  He  seemed  somewhat  impressed 
with  the  sight  of  the  wounded  bird,  though  not 
much  interested  in  the  gun,  or  curious  about  it ; 
however,  he  did  not  like  that  it  should  be  brought 
very  close  to  him,  and  seemed  to  have  some  fear 
of  it.  We  took  the  man  afterwards  on  board  the 
ship,  and  rigged  him  out  in  trousers,  shirt,  stock- 
ings, coat,  and  cap,  which  one  and  another  pro- 
vided for  him  ;  we  also  did  the  same  for  two  other 


136  FIKbX  XOIL.S. 

Fuegians,  who  came  alongside  tlie  vessel  in  their 
canoes  with  their  families.  Afterwards  we  took  the 
man  back  with  us  to  our  station ;  gave  him  the 
bird,  which,  when  some  of  his  companions,  five  in 
all,  including  two  children,  joined  him,  he  put  on 
the  burning  embers,  singed  the  feathers,  then 
plucked  them,  and  having  laid  it  on  the  fire  again 
for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  it  was  ready  cooked 
according  to  their  taste ;  and  then,  borrowing  a 
knife  from  one  of  the  men,  which  he  was  honest 
enough  afterwards  to  return,  he  dissected  it,  giving 
each  one  of  the  party  a  portion.  These  again  bit 
oil  pieces  and  gave  them  to  each  other.  And  thus 
tliey  devoured  the  whole,  without  the  least  part 
being  left  except  the  bones  and  feathers,  shewing 
us  such  a  specimen  of  rapacious  voracity  and  ex- 
pertness  in  dismembering  and  clearing  the  bones, 
as  we  had  no  conception  of  before.  I  also  shot  a 
large  bird,  the  bald-headed  vulture,  which  I  gave 
them ;  this  they  carried  off  to  their  families  for  a 
repast  at  home.  We  have  been  disappointed  in 
finding  no  fish  in  any  of  the  waters  about  us, 
neither  catching  any  ourselves,  nor  seeing  any  with 
the  natives,  with  one  exception  only,  and  then  only 
a  solitary  one.  Yesterday,  we  took  courage  on 
seeing  some  large  albatrosses  in  the  act  of  devour- 
ing a  large  rock  salmon,  which  they  had  a  minute 
or  two  before  caught.  The  absence  of  fish  is  the 
more  important  to  us,  as  the  Captain,  having  ob- 
served plenty  with  the  natives  when  lie  was  hcic 


FIRST  TOILS.  137 

before,  had  fully  reckoned  on  them,  and  had  pro- 
vided no  store  of  animal  food,  not  even  beef  and 
pork.  One  thing  more  to  be  noticed  now,  is  the 
remarkable  aptitude  of  the  people  at  imitation.  Of 
this  we  had  a  striking  instance  on  Sunday  last, 
when  talking  to  one  of  the  boys.  Not  a  word  we 
uttered,  but  he  repeated  it  over;  not  a  question  we 
put  to  him,  but  he  answered  us  back  in  our  own 
words,  and  imitated  our  every  movement,  so  that 
it  was  quite  ludicrous  to  see  the  child,  as  well  as 
tiresome  to  talk  with  him. 

"  Tuesday,  Dec.  17. — In  company  with  Cap- 
tain Cooper,  we  dined  on  shore  in  honor  of  the 
Captain's  birthday,  and  to  celebrate  the  naming  of 
a  point  of  land  after  him,  called  Cape  Cooper.  It 
rained  nearly  all  the  time  we  Avere  at  dinner,  but 
we  proceeded  therewith  as  coolly  as  though  we  had 
been  in  the  sunshine,  indeed  somewhat  more  so." 

Owing  to  some  indispensable  repairs,  the  Ocean 

Queen  had  been  detained  in  Banner  Cove  longer 

than    was    anticipated ;     but   the  time    was    now 

arrived  when  she  must  proceed  on  her  voyage,  and 

take  leave  of  the  missionary  settlers.     They  availed 

themselves  of  the  opportunity  for  sending  letters 

home ;  and  a  few  paragraphs  from  one  which  Mr 

Williams  addressed  to  his  sister  will  interest  our 

readers : — 

"  December  13. 

'*  You  will  see,  my  dear  Anne,  by  what  I  have 
written  to  C,  where  we  now  are,  and  how  we  are 


138  FIRST  TOILS. 

situated.  You  can  enter  into  my  feelings.  You 
know  the  source  which  suppUes  my  consolations, 
and  the  fountain  whence  my  joys  arise.  God  is 
alhsufiicient  for  us,  if  we  are  his  children  in  Christ 
Jesus,  and  put  our  whole  trust  in  him.  All  who 
have  hitherto  inherited  the  promises  have  been 
strangers  and  pilgrims,  and  this,  by  God's  grace,  I 
am  now.  Kejoice  therefore,  my  dear  A.,  and 
know  that  all  things  shall  work  together  for  my 
good.  Be  not  uneasy  and  apprehensive  concerning 
me;  but  let  your  heart  be  glad  that  I  am  thus 
called  to  serve  God  and  live  to  him.  I  believe  I 
shall  be  spared  to  return  to  you  again.  But  what- 
ever be  the  will  of  God  concerning  this,  vv-e  do 
know  his  will  concerning  our  meeting  together  in 
his  own  presence,  where  there  are  pleasures  for 
evermore.  Then  all  will  be  lasting  and  secure  :  no 
more  change,  no  more  partings ;  but  every  tear 
will  be  dry,  and  the  songs  of  our  rapture  will 
abound.  The  lap  of  comfort  is  too  often  the  nurse 
of  sin  and  sorrow,  whilst  the  thorny  path  of  duty, 
although  through  the  wilderness,  is  the  sure  road 
to  everlasting  bliss,  and  fruitful  in  heavenly  joys. 
Cheer  thee  up,  then,  my  dear  A.,  and  seek  with  me 
first  the  kingdom  of  God,  and  live  in  the  enjoyment 
of  the  love  of  Christ." 

"  Wigwam,  Banner  Cove, 
"December  18. 

"  My  dear  Sister, — We  have  this  day  talcoa 

leave  of  the  ship  and  all  on  board;  and  uoav,  with 


FIRST  TOILS.  139 

our  beats  moored  alongside  of  our  station,  or 
rather  the  place  appointed  for  it,  and  in  a  wigwam 
of  our  own  building — made  of  trees,  thatched  at  the 
sides,  with  a  fire  in  it — not  far  from  the  wigwams 
of  the  natives ;  with  the  woods  of  Picton  Mand  on 
the  one  side,  and  separated  from  Garden  Island  by 
Banner  Cove ;  seated  on  the  earth  for  my  floor,  I 
now  write  these  last  few  lines  again  to  say  fare- 
well, and  to  bid  you  God- speed.  God  bless  you. 
All  is  well,  dearest  A. ;  the  Lord  does  greatly 
comfort  and  strengthen  me. 

"  I  have  received  a"  very  pleasing  testimony  from 
the  Captain  of  the  ship  and  the  passengers  and 
crew,  who  united  together,  and  purchased  from  one 
of  the  passengers  a  gold  watch,  with  a  gold  chain,  a 
silver  pencil  case,  and  a  gold  ring.  This  handsome 
present  was  given  me  to-day  by  the  Captain,  in 
presence  of  all  the  company  on  board,  with  a  very 
flattering  memorial  drawn  up  and  read.  They 
allege  as  the  motive  to  this  very  handsome  conduct, 
the  services  I  have  rendered  to  many  of  them ;  but 
I  can  sincerely  say  that  nothing  was  farther  from 
my  expectations,  and  tliat  I  was  conscious  of  no 
such  desert.  I  simply  performed  a  duty  that  de- 
volved upon  me.  Several  of  the  men,  even  the 
sailors,  wept  on  my  taking  leave  of  them,  and 
seemed  to  feel  greatly  on  leaving.  They  also  pre- 
sented Mr  Maidment  with  a  ring  and  pencil-case. 
He  really  deserved  their  esteem ;  for  I  never  saw 
any  person  more  kind  in  his  attentions  to  the  sick, 


140  FIRST  TOILS. 

nursing  them,  cooking  for  them,  and  assisting  them 
at  all  hours  of  the  night.  I  regard  this  expression 
of  their  kindness  as  a  good  evidence  that  their 
hearts  have  been  somewhat  touched  by  the  pro- 
fession we  have  made  of  the  Lord  Jesus,  and  I 
hope  that  the  grace  of  God  maj  more  deeply  and 
permanently  affect  them. 

"  T  must  close.  My  love  to  C,  to  mother,  &c., 
and  to  all  my  dear  friends.  To-night  the  ship 
leaves  us.  I  shall  not  go  on  board  again;  but  a 
boat  shall  take  this  on  board. 

"  All  is  well,  God  be  praised !  It  is  beyond  all 
thought  blessed  to  be  given  up  entirely  to  the 
service  of  Christ.  His  consolations  and  the  com- 
forts of  the  Holy  Ghost  are  infinitely  precious,  and 
far  outweigh  all  privations  we  have  to  encounter. 

"  Farewell,  farewell ! 

"  Your  ever  affectionate  brother, 

"  Richard." 

Tt  is  the  twofold  glory  of  Christianity,  that  it 
infuses  fresh  tenderness  into  the  relative  affections, 
and  yet,  when  needful,  it  can  subordinate  or 
supersede  them.  Mr  Williams  had  warm  feelings 
naturally,  and  religion  made  them  warmer ;  and 
the  parting  Avith  loved  friends  was  the  sorest  pang 
in  his  departure  for  Fuegia.  But  as  distance  did 
not  impair  his  attachments,  so  these  attachments 
did  not  weaken  his  zeal.  He  did  not  put  his  hand 
to  the  plough,   and  turn  his  eye  to  his   English 


FIRST  TOILS. 


141 


home;  but,  whatever  might  be  liis  secret  hopes  for 
the  future,  he  gave  all  his  heart  to  the  work 
before  him.  The  love  of  Christ  constrained  him, 
and  the  sacrifice  of  earthly  endearment  which  he 
had  made  for  His  sake,  helped  to  render  that 
Master's  authority  more  august  and  his  fiivor  more 
precious.  And  if  it  be  a  fine  spectacle  to  see 
a  home-sick  but  oaken-hearted  sailor  like  Colling- 
wood,  sustained  by  a  simple  sense  of  duty — keep- 
ing his  post  one  weariful  year  after  another,  Avhen 
a  flower  from  his  own  garden  would  have  been 
more  welcome  than  a  forest  of  laurel,  and  a  sight 
of  his  children  more  prized  than  a  step  in  the 
peerage — it  is  surely  as  great  a  lesson  to  see  the 
Christian  missionary  self-exiled  from  what  he 
deems -an  earthly  paradise,  and,  in  a  calling  which 
admits  no  earthly  recompence,  bound  to  a  bar- 
barous shore  by  no  other  mooring  than  compassion 
for  his  fellow- men  and  loyalty  to  his  Lord  in 
heaven.  It  would  be  wrong  to  print  the  outpour- 
ings of  brotherly  and  friendly  tenderness,  and  the 
yearnings  homeward  with  which  Mr  Williams's 
letters  overflow  ;  but,  having  been  allowed  to  read 
them,  we  confess  that  they  have  greatly  exalted 
the  writer  in  our  eyes,  and  have  imparted  to  his 
mission  another  element  of  martyrdom. 

Returnino-  to  the  Journal,  we  resume  the  record 
after  the  sailing  of  the  Ocean  Queen : — 

"  Our  ship  was  seen  getting  under  weigh  at  about 
nine  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  19tli  December, 


142  FIRST  TOILS. 

and  in  a  few  hours  we  lost  sight  of  her.  God  speed 
her,  and  all  that  are  in  her !  About  ten  o'clock  on 
the  same  morning  we  ourselves  prepared  to  leave 
Banner  Cove,  in  search  of  a  place  where  we 
might  deposit  some  of  our  stores,  our  boats  being 
too  much  crowded.  We  could  not  stow  any  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  on  account  of  the  natives.  Ac- 
cordingly, w^e  got  under  weigh,  but  the  wind  was 
ahead  of  us  at  first.  We  had  to  make  several  tacks, 
and  were  sometimes  puzzled  in  the  attempt.  My 
berth  was  in  the  Pioneer  with  Captain  Gardiner ; 
but,  as  he  required  two  of  the  sailors  with  him,  I 
exchanged  places  with  Bryant,  and  went  on  board 
the  Speedwell,  which  was  under  command  of  Erwin, 
Badcock  being  with  us.  Thus  we  were  divided, 
Captain  Gardiner,  Mr  Maidment,  Pearce,  and  Bry- 
ant in  the  Pioneer,  and  we  three  in  the  Speedivell. 
The  Speedivell  was  much  the  heavier  laden  of  the 
two,  and  greatly  encumbered  with  stores.  In 
addition,  we  had  a  heavy  raft  of  timber  fastened 
to  our  stern,  and  towed  after  us.  I  now  turned  to, 
to  assist  for  the  first  time  in  the  management  of  a 
sailing  craft.  I  soon  was  able  to  handle  the  main- 
sheet,  in  working  the  boat,  *  hauling  aft '  and 
'  slackening  off,'  '  brailing  up '  and  '  furling,'  as 
I'equired  ;  and  rigged  out  in  most  of  tlio  gear  of  a 
sailor,  with  sou'- wester,  a  blue  sera;'  shirt,  and 
heavv  sea-boots.  The  wind  was  blowinu  fresh  from 
the  N.E.,  with  squalls  of  rain,  and,  although  some- 
what gloomy  the  weather,  and  chilHng,  we  set  off 


FIRST  TOILS.  143 

in  excellent  spirits.     After  tacking  about  for  more 
than  an  hour,  the  Pioneer  got  the  start  of  us,  bv 
•weathering  on  one  tack  the  point  of  land  project- 
ing from  Garden  Island,  and  we  lost  sight  of  her. 
In  attempting  to  do  the  same,  the  raft  we  had  in 
tow  came  on  our  weather  bow,  whilst  we  were  in 
stays,  and  we  were  driven  leeward  considerably. 
We  now  tried  to  wear  her,  but,  owing  to  a  field  of 
kelp  on  our  lee  bow,  she  would  not  go  round,  and 
we  saw  ourselves  fast  drifting  right  on  the  surf. 
We  were  startled  and  amazed  at  the  suddenness  of 
the  danger,  as  well  as  by  its  imminency  and  great- 
ness.    It  was  scarcely  credible  to  our  senses,  that, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes,  and  almost  at  the 
instant  of  our  losing  sight  of  our  companions,  we 
should  be  exposed  to  such  a  peril  as  was  now  before 
us.     All  was  anxiety  and  alacrity  to  do  whatever 
we  could.      The  anchor  was  hastily  let   go,  but, 
owing  to  the  mass  of  kelp  and  bad  holding-ground, 
it  came  home  until  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the 
rocks.      Destruction   now,   indeed,    threatened  us, 
and  poor  Erwin  was  almost  beside  himself.     '  The 
boat,  the  boat  will  be  lost ! — she's  done  for,  she'll 
go  to  pieces ! '  was  the  poor  fellow's  repeated  ex- 
clamation.    We  did  our  utmost,  by  means  of  the 
boat-hooks,  &c.,  to  keep  her  from  being  heaved  by 
the  roaring  swell    on   the   rocks.      Now  she  was 
broadside,  and  all  but  upon  them  ;  now  her  bow 
was  really  in  danger  of  being   stoved  :  we  Avero 
first  at  one  part,  and  as  immediately  at  another, 


]44  FIRST  TOILS. 

our  hands  being  fully  engaged,  to  keep  her  from" 
striking.  Betwixt  two  and  three  hours  we  con- 
tinued thus,  in  constant  and  unceasing  effort,  till  at 
length  we  were  somewhat  relieved  by  getting  a 
spring  on  the  cable,  on  which  I  held  for  an  hour 
longer,  whilst  Erwin  and  Badcock  fixed  the  boat- 
hooks.  The  wind  was  blowing;  hard  durino-  the 
whole  time,  with  increasing  blasts  at  intervals,  and 
the  surge  was  furiously  dashing  about  us.  For 
more  than  four  hours  together  had  we  thus  to  con- 
template the  probability  of  our  destruction  ;  and  if 
our  lives  should  be  saved,  yet  now,  separated  from 
our  companions,  all  our  provisions  gone,  if  left  on 
shore,  helpless  and  destitute,  and  at  the  mercy  of 
tlie  natives,  the  prospect  was  not  pleasing.  Were 
such  my  thoughts  ?  They  might  have  crossed 
my  mind.  But  they  were  not  my  thoughts ;  my 
thoughts  were  altogether  different.  The  grace  of 
God  so  strongly  supported  me,  that  I  felt  not  the 
least  alarm,  and  v/as  all  along  confident  tliat  we 
should  again  get  off  in  safety.  Indeed,  I  could  not 
lielp  thinking  that  I  was  too  insensible  to  our 
danger,  and  too  httle  affected  by  it.  Certain, 
however,  it  was,  that  not  a  struggle  nor  one  emo- 
tion of  fear  occurred  to  me.  I  felt  that,  whatever 
the  result  might  be,  all  would  be  well,  for  God  had 
the  ordering  of  this,  as  well  as  of  anv  other  circum- 
stance  which  should  betide  us.  Poor  Erwin,  as  vet 
a  stranger  to  the  grace  of  God,  gave  way  to  pas- 
sionate paroxysms  of  grief,  not  on  account  of  any 


FIRST  TOILS,  145 

danger  to  himself,  but  on  acconnt  of  the  appro-- 
hended  loss  of  our  boat,  and  the  injury  we  all,  as 
well  as  the  mission  itself,  would  sustain  thereby. 
Dear  fellow!  his  feelings  reflected  honor  upon  him, 
as  well  as  his  unparallelled  exertions.  After  re- 
maining in  our  dangerous  position  the  time  before 
specified,  a  lull  occurred  in  the  wind,  and  wc 
thought  it  a  good  opportunity  to  make  an  effort 
to  get  out,  and  push  round  the  rocks  into  open 
water.  It  was,  however,  a  most  critical  juncture, 
and  presented  certain  destruction  if  we  failed. 
Falling  down  before  God,  we  sought  his  direction 
and  help  in  prayer,  and  upon  rising  from  our  knees 
immediately  proceeded  to  cut  the  chain  cable  ;  but, 
not  succeeding  in  this,  we  let  it  go  altogether. 
And  now,  although  destruction  appeared  inevitable, 
the  swell  launching  us  broadside  with  great  force 
in  the  direction  of  the  rocks ;  yet,  by  the  mercy  of 
God,  the  danger  was  averted,  and,  after  exerting 
ourselves  to  the  uttermost,  we  found  ourselves  out- 
side the  rocks  and  round  the  point.  Here  again 
another  difficulty  presented  itself.  Our  rudder  had 
been  unshipped  and  carried  away,  and,  before  w^e 
could  get  any  command  of  the  boat,  the  wind  and 
tide  drifted  us  against  the  opposite  small  island, 
Round  Island,  wdien  we  had  again  to  make  strenu- 
ous efforts  with  our  boat-hooks.  Hardly  had  wo 
escaped  this  when  wc  touched  some  sunken  rocks 
and  shoal  Avater,  but  were  again  mercifully  pre- 
served.    On  getting  free,  wc  took  the  only  alter- 

K 


146  FIRST  TOILS, 

native  left  us,  and  ran  aground  on  the  shelving 
beach  of  Garden  Island.  Now,  thank  God,  there 
was  rest  for  the  soles  of  our  wearied  feet.  We 
hauled  up  the  boat,  and  gave  God  praise.  Happily 
at  the  time  no  natives  appeared.  Had  they  been 
present  and  witnessed  our  distress,  humanly  speak- 
ing we  should  have  been  altogether  in  their  power, 
and  in  all  probability  must  have  fallen  victims  to 
their  cupidity.  But  the  providence  of  God  was 
over  us.  The  Lord  is  our  shield.  It  was  late  in 
the  day  when  we  got  here,  and  now,  without  any 
hope  of  seeing  our  companions  this  day,  the  wind 
being  strong  and  against  their  putting  back,  we 
passed  the  night,  sleeping  very  soundly  till  the 
time  of  high  Avater,  about  three  in  the  morning, 
when  the  boat  was  again  afloat,  and  we  once  more 
got  her  into  Banner  Cove. 

"  Friday  the  20th  passed,  and  we  saw  nothing 
of  our  companions  till  past  midnight,  when  we  were 
aroused  from  sleep  by  their  shouting  and  rattling 
against  our  boat.  How  happy  were  we  to  see  them 
returned  and  safe !  They  too  had  their  difficulties. 
After  losing  sight  of  us  they  had  proceeded,  think- 
ing we  should  soon  follow  them,  and  after  survey- 
ing several  entrances  on  the  north  shore,  had  found 
an  excellent  harbour  about  twenty  miles  from 
Banner  Cove,  which  Captain  Gardiner  named 
Blomefield  Harbour,  after  Sir  Thomas  Blomefield, 
former  secretary  to  our  Society.  Here  they  passed 
the  night,  remaining  till  the  weather  afforded  them 


FIHST  TOILS.  147 

a  hope  of  returning  to  seek  after  us.  Shortly  after 
our  separation  they  lost  both  dingies  which  they 
were  towing  astern,  the  lieavy  swell  having  snapped 
the  chain  by  which  they  were  fastened.  They  found 
the  boat  not  altogether  fitted  for  sea,  at  least  for 
rough  weather,  having  no  scuttle  on  her  fore  hatch- 
way, and  leaking  greatly  from  one  of  the  bolt-holes 
in  the  knee  of  the  bulk-head,  which  added  much  to 
their  perplexities.  Captain  Gardiner  was,  however, 
highly  gratified  in  having  found  a  harbour  so  ex- 
cellently adapted  for  us  as  he  deemed  Blomefield 
Harbour  to  be,  where  he  thought  there  was  every 
facility  to  complete  the  fittings-up  of  our  boat,  and 
to  overhaul  the  Pioneer  for  her  leak,  and  likewise, 
as  no  natives  were  seen,  where  we  might  deposit 
our  ample  stores. 

"  Bent  upon  this,  we  again  set  out  in  company 
at  about  ten  o'clock,  on  Saturday  the  21st.  The 
morning  was  very  fine,  with  light  breezes,  but 
against  us ;  so  that,  when  in  Beagle  Channel,  we 
had  to  tack  about  all  day  long,  and  made  but  little 
way.  However,  all  was  very  pleasant,  and  we  kept 
in  company  until  the  evening,  when  our  boat,  the 
Speedwell,  got  considerably  ahead,  and  we  at  length 
lost  sight  of  the  Pioneer.  We  stood  on  our  course, 
and,  by  the  directions  given,  we  got  abreast  of  the 
entrance  to  Blomefield  Harbour.  Surprised,  how- 
ever, at  the  delay  in  the  Pioneer  coming  up  with 
us,  we  kept  cruising  about  during  the  niglit,  and 
seeing  nothing  at  all  of  thcni,  we  in  our  turn  became 


148  FlUST  TOILS. 

alarmed  for  tlieir  safety.  Accordingly,  about  six  in 
the  morning,  a  fine  breeze  springing  up  in  favor  of 
our  return,  we  put  back  for  Banner  Cove,  hoping 
they  might  have  returned  there.  Abreast  of  the 
Cove  we  at  first  saw  no  indication  of  them,  and 
Avcre  just  in  the  act  of  standing  out  again  for  sea, 
thinking  that  somehow  or  other  they  must  have 
passed  us  in  the  night,  and  got  before  us  into  the 
harbour,  when  Badcock  got  sight  of  the  boat  masts 
and  a  flag  flying  at  the  top  of  one  of  them.  She 
was  but  just  visible,  and  we  were  greatly  puzzled 
to  account  for  her  position,  as  well  as  alarmed  at 
seeing  her  as  we  thought  disastrously  stranded. 
We  got  up  to  her  as  speedily  as  possible.  Blessed 
be  God !  our  first  salutation  from  Captain  Gardiner 
was,  '  All  is  right,  but  had  you  not  come,  all  would 
have  been  wrong.'  They  had  put  back  on  account 
of  the  hght  wind,  to  pass  the  night  in  our  old 
locality,  and  had  entered  by  Cook's  Passage,  but 
the  tide,  on  ebbing,  had  receded  further  than  was 
expected,  and  had  left  them  aground.  A  large 
party  of  the  natives  had  come  back  to  Tent 
Cove,  and  had  been  harassing  them  much.  Just 
as  our  boat  hove  in  sight  they  were  mustering  their 
forces,  and  our  little  party  fully  expected  an  attack ; 
but  if  they  had  any  such  intention,  our  coming 
caused  them  to  abandon  it.  Early  in  the  morning 
the  natives  had  quite  taken  our  friends  by  surprise, 
and  being  ashore,  they  clambered  up  into  the  boat 
without  there  being  any  possibility   of  preventing 


FIRST  TOILS.  149 

them.  At  this  moment,  so  critical,  the  Captain 
with  his  httle  band  knelt  down  and  offered  up 
prayer  to  God,  the  natives  standing  about  them ; 
and  it  was  apparent  that  during  the  time  a  real 
change  took  place  in  the  countenance  of  one  in 
particular  of  the  natives,  and  they  were  all  remark- 
ably quiet  and  subdued.  As  soon  as  the  tide  was  at 
full,  the  Pioneer  was  got  off,  and  both  boats  got 
under  weigh. 

"  Tuesday,  December  24. — At  Tent  Cove,  early 
in  the  morning,  our  alarm  whistle  was  blown  to 
apprise  us  that  the  natives  were  coming  off.  This 
was  about  four  o'clock,  and  all  hands  were  immedi- 
ately on  deck  to  be  prepared  in  case  they  meant  to 
attack  us.  The  natives  consisted  of  eight  men  with 
their  wives  and  families,  in  three  canoes ;  they 
came  alongside,  and  we  deemed  it  prudent  not  to 
let  them  approach  so  near  as  to  be  able  to  spring- 
on  board.  They,  however,  shewed  no  actually 
hostile  spirit.  We  rather  anticipated  they  would, 
especially  as  the  night  previous  they  had  hung  up 
white  streamers  on  their  canoes,  and  painted  them- 
selves white,  which  wc  understood  to  mean  hostility  ; 
and  we  did  not  know  for  what  purpose  they  all 
were  mustered  together  and  put  off  in  company. 
As  we  gave  them  nothing  on  this  occasion,  but 
intimated  rather  our  dissatisfaction  with  them,  they 
soon  left  us  and  went  out  of  the  Bay  into  the  Beagle 
Channel.     The  natives  being  gone,  we  availed  our- 


150  FiliST  TOILS. 

selves  of  this  opportunity  to  get  back  our  raft  of 
timber,  which  was  lying  on  the  beach  opposite  their 
wigwams ;  and  we  also  succeeded  in  recovering  our 
chain  and  ground  tackle,  and  also  a  raft  which  we 
had  constructed  in  place  of  our  dingies.  In  the 
evening  we  buried,  or  rather  stowed  away,  all  our 
surplus  provisions,  an  excellent  place  being  found 
for  that  purpose  on  Garden  Island. 

"  Wednesday,  25. — Took  up  our  position  at 
Banner  Cove,  and  overhauled  the  Pioneer,  to  get 
at  her  leak.  Christmas  day  was,  as  almost  every 
day  had  hitherto  been  since  we  got  on  board  the 
boats,  a  day  of  bustle  and  work  ;  this  was  unavoid- 
able. Our  Christmas  dinner  consisted  of  preserved 
meat,  and  some  wheat-meal  dough  with  a  few 
I'aisins  in  it,  which  we  enjoyed  as  much  as  any 
epicure  in  England  could  enjoy  his  well-spread 
table  and  delicate  viands.  We  remembered  our 
dear  friends,  and  in  God's  name  blessed  them. 

"  Thursday,  26. — The  natives  returned,  and ' 
came  up  to  us  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  and  we 
bartered  with  them  for  some  small  fish,  which  they 
had  speared ;  they  then  passed  on  in  the  direction 
of  their  wigwams,  but  we  saw  nothing  more  of 
them  that  day. 

"  Tuesday,  31. — Up  to  the  present  time,  no- 
thing very  material  has  occurred.  We  are  now 
getting  into  something  like  settled  habits,  as  re- 
spects our  new  quarters  and  altered  cirumstances. 


FIRST  TOILS.  151 

Two  things  have  happened  of  a  disappointing  na- 
ture, Avhich  it  has  rather  puzzled  us  to  make  up 
for.  One  is,  that  whereas  Captain  Gardiner  was 
in  expectation  of  there  being  abundance  of  fish 
here,  we  find  hterally  none,  saving  the  small  ones 
caught  by  the  natives,  but  we  do  not  know  where 
they  obtained  them.  The  other  disappointment 
arises  from  our  having  left  our  stock  of  powder  on 
board,  so  that  we  can  no  longer  supply  ourselves 
with  ducks  and  geese,  of  which  there  are  plenty 
here.  Anticipating  neither  of  these  failures,  no 
large  provision  of  animal  food  was  made  ;  only  two 
casks  of  preserved  meat,  and  one  of  pork,  the 
latter  purchased  from  the  Ocean  Queen.  Conse- 
quently, our  diet  consists  chiefly  of  wheat-meal  and 
oat-meal,  with  rice  and  biscuit,  cheese,  butter,  and 
molasses. 

"  Thui'sday,  January  2,  1851. — Yesterday  was 
with  me  a  day  of  humbling  and  bowing  down  be- 
fore tlic  Lord.  Every  circumstance  that  "has  oc- 
curred in  this  land  of  storms  and  desolation,  has 
tended  to  the  same  end — to  humble  and  abase  me. 
The  natural  man  has  day  by  day  been  crucified. 
The  privation  of  accustomed  comforts,  the  vicissi- 
tudes already  experienced,  the  trying  duties  de- 
volving on  us,  the  dulness  and  great  inclemency  of 
the  climate,  the  solitude  of  the  scenery,  the  unin- 
viting character  of  the  natives,  and  the  apparent 
hopelessness  of  contending  against  so  many  difficul- 


152  FIRST  TOILS. 

ties, — all  these  tilings  the  flesh  has  had  to  be  loaded 
with,  and,  together  with  its  OAvn  fears  and  repin- 
ings,  to  be  nailed  to  the  cross  and  yield  up  the 
ghost,  whilst  in  the  room  thereof  Christ  should  be 
raised  up  and  found  in  me  the  hope  of  glory." 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


D'cto  f  rials. 


Lord,  listen  to  my  lowly  dirge. 

My  plaintive  call  attend ; 
My  fainting  heart  to  thee  would  vu'ge 

A  prayer  from  earth's  far  end. 

Within  thy  tabernacle  shade 

I  wonlil  fur  aye  abide, 
In  wings  of  thy  kind  sheltering  aid 

Would  safely  rest  and  hide. 

Psalm  Ixi.  1,  2,  4. — Kchle. 


In  journeyings  often,  in  perils  of  waters,  in  perils  of  rohhers,  in 
perils  by  the  heathen,  in  perils  in  the  wilderness,  in  perils  in  the 
sea;  in  weariness  and  painfuluess,  in  watchings  often,  in  hunger  and 
thirst,  in  fastings  often,  iu  cold  and  nakedness.—^  Primitive  Mis- 
sionary. 


Had  the  funds  of  the  mission  admitted  of  the  pur- 
chase of  a  vessel  of  a  hundred  tons  burden,  the 
mission  party  would  have  been  comparatively  inde- 
pendent. As  soon  as  it  became  dangerous  to 
remain  on  shore,  they  Avoukl  have  found  a  secure 
refuge  on  ship-board;  and,  in  the  event  of  their 
provisions  failing,  they  could  easily  have  proceeded 
for  supplies  to  Port  Famine  or  the  Falkland  Isles. 
In  that  case,  they  would  also  have  been  saved  the 
fatigue  and  anxiety  of  hiding  their  stores  where 
there  was  great  risk  of  the  natives  finding  them ; 
and  instead  of  creeping  round  these  dreary  coasts 
in  boats  too  small  to  weather  a  storm,  and  which 
could  scarcely  offer  them  a  dry  berth  when  the  day 
was  done,  they  would  have  faced  the  blast  with 
some  confidence,  and  they  would,  at  least,  have 
lodged  in  comfort. 

As  it  was,  with  their  shallop  launches,  as  soon 
as  the  Ocean  Queen  took  leave  of  them  they  were 
almost  as  completely  imprisoned   in  the   Fuegian 


156  NEW  TRIALS. 

islands  as  was  Alexander  Selkirk  in  Juan  Fernan- 
dez ;  and  to  reach  a  Christian  settlement  across  such 
turbulent  seas,  would  have  been  little  less  than  a 
miracle.  On  the  other  hand,  as  Mr  Ritchie  repre- 
sented to  Captain  Gardiner,  the  chances  of  European 
vessels  visiting  their  rendezvous  were  very  small, 
and  it  would  have  required  a  powerful  inducement  to 
tempt  any  to  such  a  dangerous  deflexion  from  their 
usual  course.  But  with  a  noble  ardor  the  leader  of 
the  expedition  longed  to  enter  on  his  cherished 
project.  He  knew  that  there  were  fish  in  the  sea, 
and  abundance  of  birds  on  the  shore.  He  had 
with  him  provisions  for  six  months;  and  before 
these  should  be  expended  he  calculated  on  fresh 
supphes  from  England.  And  although  none  knew 
better  the  wildness  of  these  waters,  should  it  be 
found  impossible  to  propitiate  the  natives,  he 
trusted  that  on  some  unfrequented  coast,  or  afloat 
in  some  tranquil  cove,  he  and  his  comrades  might 
hold  out  till  more  effectual  means  were  placed  at 
their  disposal. 

Already,  however,  several  elements  in  this  calcu- 
lation were  annihilated.  To  say  nothing  of  the 
unsuitableness  of  low-decked  boats,  whose  iron 
roofs  condensed  the  vapor  and  kept  a  perpetual 
rain  dripping  on  the  berths  and  floors,  their  ser- 
viceableness  from  the  first  was  materially  impaired 
by  the  loss  of  tiie  two  '•  dingies,"  Avhich  were  in- 
tended as  a  communication  between  the  launches  and 
the  land.    By  a  fearful  oversight  the  gunpowder  was 


NEW  TRIALS.  157 

left  in  the  ship,  and  it  was  now  on  its  way  to  San 
Francisco ;  and  although  there  were  fowhng-pieces 
and  good  marksmen  in  the  party,  they  had  less 
power  to  secure  the  game  with  which  they  were 
surrounded  than  the  savages  who  had  nothing  but 
their  slings.  And,  although  they  had  brought  with 
them  a  net,  this  also  they  were  destined  to  lose ; 
so  that,  in  a  climate  beyond  all  others  requiring 
warm  shelter  and  generous  diet,  these  devoted 
men  soon  found  themselves  without  cordials,  without 
animal  food,  without  dry  clothing,  without  a  single 
material  comfort. 

But  not  to  anticipate  the  narrative,  we  resume 
the  Journal  of  our  meek  and  cheerful  missionary: — 

"  Lennox  Cove,  Wednesday,  Jan.  8,  1851. — 
Another  eventful  period  has  elapsed,  and  intro- 
duced new  scenes,  and  brought  fresh  trials;  but, 
praise  God,  the  good  providence  of  God  has  been 
marvellously  manifested.  As  previously  men- 
tioned, the  natives  caused  us  some  alarm,  by  their 
mustering  together  at  an  early  hour  on  the 
morning  of  Tuesday  the  24th  December ;  but  we 
could  not  be  sure,  though  we  had  a  strono-  sus- 
picion,  that  their  intentions  on  that  occasion  were 
hostile.  They  passed  on,  and  did  not  return 
till  Thursday  the  26th,  when  they  shewed  a  de- 
cidedly pacific  spirit,  but  we  were  surprised  to  see 
nothing  more  of  them  after  that  time.  We  did  not 
know  whether  they  left  the  Cove  the  same  evening 
or  the  morning  followina:;  nor  did  wo  know  their 


158  NEW  TRIALS. 

motive  for  leaving  again.  It  miglit  be  that  they 
were  planning  some  mischief  against  us,  or  it  might 
be  that  they  were  going  to  fish.  We,  however, 
cheerfully  entrusted  our  keeping  to  God,  and  de- 
termined to  wait  the  order  of  events,  and  to  act  as 
circumstances  should  direct. 

"  That  the  Fuegians  were  not  to  be  trusted,  and 
that  our  property  was  a  great  excitement  to  their 
cupidity,  and  that  they  would  go  any  length  to 
gain  possession  of  it,  we  were  now  Avell  assured. 
The  art  of  dissimulation  is  very  perfect  among 
them :  when  they  were  few  in  number,  and  while 
tlie  ship  was  present,  their  demeanor  was  quiet 
enough ;  but  when  they  were  upon  a  par  with  us, 
the  ship  being  gone,  matters  were  altogether  altered. 

"  The  boldness  and  troublesome  conduct  of  the 
party  who  disturbed  us  whilst  in  our  tents  on 
Garden  Island,  afforded  us  one  striking  instance  of 
their  disposition.  On  that  occasion,  there  were 
only  three  or  four  of  them  ;  yet  we  had  some  diffi- 
culty to  keep  them  from  thrusting  themselves  into 
our  tents,  and  repeatedly  since  then  we  had  occa- 
sion to  notice  the  haughtiness  of  their  bearino;  and 
the  forwardness  of  their  conduct.  This  was  more 
particularly  the  case  with  the  individual  whom,  for 
the  sake  of  distinction,  we  named  '  Jemmy.'  This 
man  was  very  well  formed  and  featured,  and  most 
active  in  his  habits  :  unusual  energy  and  quickness 
of  mind  were  very  perceptible  in  him.  But  all  this 
was  for  evil,  nnd  rot  for  good  :  he  was  the  ring-: 


NEW   TKIALS.  159 

leader,  and  acted  in  some  measure  as  chief.  He 
was  a  daring  and  determined  spirit,  and  his  pride 
and  consequence  were  exhibited  in  his  rejecting 
with  contempt  anything  of  a  trifling  character, 
wliilst  he  shewed  a  sound  judgment  in  appreciating 
aught  of  a  useful  nature.  On  one  occasion  he 
passed  back  a  preserved-meat  can,  which  the 
others  always  gladly  accepted ;  and  unless  it  was  a 
knife,  or  a  nail,  or  something  of  the  sort,  which  was 
given  him,  a  withering  smile  passed  across  his  lips. 
If  we  might  judge  by  the  working  of  his  features, 
his  opinion  of  us  was  altogether  contemptuous. 

"  A  rather  singular  circumstance  is  connected 
with  the  coming  of  this  individual  and  his  party, 
which  happened  on  the  Sunday  evening,  whilst  at 
our  tent  as  before  mentioned.  It  was  then  that  the 
peculiar  and  dismal  yelling  cry,  a  loud  and  pro- 
longed wail  of  the  women  in  their  canoes,  moored 
to  the  kelp,  was  set  up.  We  also  thought  that  this 
'  Jemmy,'  as  we  called  him,  was  in  all  probability 
acquainted  with  a  spot  where  we  found  the  muti- 
lated and  charred  remains  of  a  human  body,  the 
skin  of  the  head  and  face  being  undestroyed ;  and 
we  Avere  not  without  a  suspicion  that  he  might  be 
the  perpetrator  of  this  work  of  malevolence.  A 
slino-  was  found  near  these  remains. 

"  Another  thing  to  be  noticed  in  'Jemmy'  was 
his  frequent  change  of  complexion.  At  first  he  and 
his  companions  were  painted  black ;  this  was  after- 
wards exchanged  for  white  streaks,  and  then  gave 


lliO  NEW  TKIALS. 

place  to  a  very  tastefully  executed  ornamental 
painting  of  white  dots  very  orderly  arranged. 
One  of  his  two  wives,  as  we  suppose  the  young 
women  to  be  who  were  generally  in  his  canoe  with 
him,  was  painted  precisely  like  liim,  which  we  took 
to  express  his  favor  towards  her.  Both  these  were 
finely  made  persons,  and  really  good  looking  ;  they 
had  each  an  infant  at  the  breast.  I  have  been 
greatly  struck  with  the  quiet  and  easily  abashed 
deportment  of  these  young  persons,  and  with  their 
utter  subjection  to  their  master.  '  Jemmy,'  how- 
ever, appeared  to  treat  them  kindly,  and  whatever 
beads  or  light  articles  we  gave  him,  he  handed  to 
these  companions. 

"  After  some  days  had  elapsed,  the  natives  re- 
turned on  Saturday  morning,  January  4,  about 
seven  o'clock.  The  signal  was  given  by  our  look-out, 
and  'Jemmy'  and  some  others  of  our  old  acquaint- 
ance were  soon  alongside.  But  we  found  that 
others,  to  the  number  of  eight  canoes,  were  coming 
in  sight ;  and  as  there  are  usually  two  men,  and 
sometimes  more,  in  each  canoe,  we  knew  that  their 
strength  was  greatly  superior  to  ours.  Captain 
Gardiner  got  his  glass,  and  he  plainly  enough  saw 
that  they  were  come  purposely  to  attack  us,  as 
they  were  well  provided  with  their  war  spears ; 
and  moreover,  they  were  taking  in  stones  from  the 
beach,  the  most  certain  evidence  of  their  hostile 
intentions.  No  time  was  now  to  be  lost,  and  with 
all  speed  both  boats  were  got  under  sail. 


NEW  TRIALS.  161 

"  Several  circumstances  here  are  to  be  recorded 
of  the  mercy  of  God  to  us.  Had  we  been  lying  in 
Tent  Cove,  as  the  day  before  it  was  proposed  we 
should,  we  never  should  have  got  out  of  it  in  time. 
Or  had  we  had  our  tents  rigged,  as  we  all  along 
had  until  two  days  before,  when  the  high  winds 
compelled  us  to  take  them  down,  we  should  not 
have  been  able  to  get  the  boats  ready  soon  enough. 
Or  had  we  not  had  moorings  independent  of  our 
anchors,  which  we  had  but  just  been  able  to  pro- 
vide, we  might  not  have  been  able  to  weigh  our 
anchors  in  time  to  escape.  And,  lastly,  had  not  a 
breeze  sprung  up  just  at  the  very  minute  we 
wanted  it,  we  could  not  have  got  out  and  prevented 
the  attack.  As  it  was,  we  were  able,  by  God's  good 
and  merciful  care,  to  get  out  before  they  had  time 
to  enclose  us. 

"  The  marks  of  disappointment  and  chagrin 
were  but  too  evident  in  their  manner,  when  they 
saw  us  safely  passing  beyond  their  reach.  It  was 
a  merciful  manifestation  of  God's  care,  and  truly 
he  answered  our  trustful  expectations  and  de- 
pendence upon  him.  Had  we  been  well  armed, 
and  come  to  open  conflict  with  them,  our  chance 
of  success  had  been  poor  ;  but  to  resist  thera 
and  to  do  them  harm,  would  have  been  as  great 
an  evil,  and  as  deeply  to  be  regretted  by  us,  as  our 
receiving  bodily  injury  from  them,  and  would  have 
occasioned  a  double  necessity  for  flight.  I  had 
made  this  very  thing  a  special  subject  of  prayer; 

L 


162  NEW  TRIALS, 

for  the  thought  of  injuring  them,  even  in  self-de- 
fence, is  horror  to  m}'-  feehngs,  neither  do  I  think  I 
could  lift  up  my  head  any  more,  were  such  a  thing 
to  happen.  In  our  sudden  flight  we  had  to  cut  away 
the  raft  we  had  built  as  a  substitute  for  our  dingies, 
as  well  as  the  hawser  by  which  we  were  moored. 
We  were  also  in  the  exigency  unprovided  with 
water,  having  but  a  day's  allowance  or  so  with  us, 
and  without  wood  for  our  fire.  The  Captain 
thought  our  only  course  was  to  go  again  to  Blome- 
field  Harbour,  the  same  place  we  had  tried  to 
reach  before ;  but  on  getting  out  into  the  Bay,  it 
was  clear  we  could  not  attempt  it,  the  boats  not 
yet  being  properly  rigged,  their  scuttles  not  being 
on,  and  without  bulwarks, — the  spindles  of  both 
rudders  being  broken,  and  having  no  other  where- 
with to  replace  them.  We  therefore  determined 
to  sail  eastward,  and  shaped  our  course  accordingly, 
under  favor  of  a  fine  fresh  breeze  from  the  west. 
On  making  the  south-east  point  of  Picton  Island, 
Ave  sought  to  find  a  cove  on  the  south  side,  but  in 
vain ;  and  about  noon,  a  dead  calm  coming  on,  we 
lay  for  some  time  anchored  to  the  kelp.  Here 
Captain  Gardiner  offered  up  a  prayer  to  God,  in 
gratitude  for  our  merciful  deliverance.  Whilst  we 
were  lying  here,  the  Captain  expressed  himself  as 
being  now  entirely  left  to  the  directing  hand  of 
God,  and  that  nothing  remained  for  us,  but  to  leave 
it  to  his  good  providence  to  direct  us  where  next 
we  should  go.     His  original  intention  of  fortifying 


NKW   TKIALS,  163 

DuLliaii  Island,  as  he  proposed  in  that  case  calling 
it,  but  which  was  afterwards,  on  the  abandonment 
of  the  scheme,  called  Round  Island,  had  been  frus- 
trated ;  as  had  our  effort  to  take  up  our  abode  in 
Picton  Island,  and  our  several  efforts  to  find  a 
suitable  spot  on  the  north  shore  of  the  mainland, 
particularly  our  purpose  to  reach  Blomefield 
Harbour,  which  the  Captain  thought  so  admirably 
suited  to  our  wants.  In  fact,  we  had  devised  no- 
thing that  had  issued  in  success,  and  we  seemed  to 
be  getting  disastrously  crippled ;  being  now  without 
means  altogether  of  getting  ashore,  unless  unusual 
facihties  should  be  afforded  in  the  character  of  the 
harbour.  New,  Navarin,  and  Lennox  Islands, 
remained  for  us  to  go  to.  Navarin  had  the  disad- 
vantage of  being  peopled  thickly  with  the  natives, 
but  the  light  breeze  which  after  a  time  sprung  up 
seemed  to  determine  in  its  favor.  We  accordingly 
for  some  time  pursued  our  course  for  Navarin 
Island;  but  about  midnight, it  fell  calm,  and  con- 
tinued so  till  near  three  o'clock,  when  a  breeze 
from  the  N.W.  sprang  up,  which  soon  increased 
to  a  heavy  gale,  and  now,  wind  and  tide  against  us, 
and  unable  to  beat  through  the  channel,  we  bore 
up  for  Lennox  Island.  We  ran  before  the  wind, 
passing  every  creek  and  cove,  in  search  of  a 
suitable  place  for  anchorage,  and  between  nine  and 
ten,  on  the  Sunday  morning,  Jan.  5,  arrived  off* 
Lennox  Harbour.  We  anchored  during  that  day 
lii  Uic  harbour,  and  next  morning  Aveighcd  for  the 


164  NEW  TRIALS. 

purpose  of  grounding  the  boat.  The  wind  being 
ahead,  we,  that  is,  the  Pioneer,  were  just  on  the 
point  of  running  in  on  the  beach,  when  the  wind 
taking  her  aback,  she  was  driven  among  a  reef  of 
rocks,  and  escaped  destruction  as  by  a  miracle.  A 
sharp-pointed  rock  was  just  cleared  by  her,  and 
her  quarter  was  in  imminent  danger  of  being  stove 
in  on  another  mass  of  rock.  She,  however,  ran  on 
a  little  sandy  bed,  and  escaped  all  the  rocks  most 
marvellously,  so  that  afterwards,  when  the  tide 
had  ebbed,  we  were  astounded  to  see  how  remark- 
able her  escape  had  been.  It  was  rather  singular, 
that  just  at  the  moment  I  heard  her  bouncing 
against  the  ground,  I  was  calling  on  the  Lord  in 
my  morning  prayer ;  and  though  conscious  some- 
thing was  wrong  from  the  hasty  movements  and 
anxious  expressions  overhead,  yet  I  was  assured 
of  our  safety,  and  altogether  without  any  perturbed 
feelings. 

"  The  Sjjeediuell  took  the  land  where  it  was 
proposed  she  should, — the  beach,  happily  a  sandy 
one,  affording  very  favorable  means  of  getting 
ashore.  There  was  nothing  very  inviting  in  the 
appearance  of  Lennox  Harbour,  or  the  island ;  but 
a  resting-place  from  storms,  where  we  could  lie 
some  time  undisturbed  by  the  natives,  and  complete 
our  boats,  was  very  desirable,  and  we  felt  truly 
thankful  Avhen  we  saw  neither  wigwam  nor  natives 
in  the  harbour. 

"  Tlic  dav  after  our  arrival  here,  we  found  that 


NEW  TKIALS.  Iti5 

we  could  not  get  either  boat  afloat,  the  tide  on  the 
previous  morning  being  higher  than  usual,  owing 
to  the  force  of  the  tempest,  and  it  being  the  second 
or  third  day  after  spring-tide.  We  must  now  wait 
till  the  next  spring-tide,  some  nine  or  ten  days, 
and  if  natives  come,  we  can't  flee  from  them.  Bless 
the  Lord,  His  hand  has  some  secret  but  wise 
purpose  here.  We  shall  see  by  and  by  what  it 
means. 

"  Thursday,  January  9. — Last  night  I  remark- 
ably experienced  the  force  of  St  Paul's  words,  Eph. 
iii.  16.  I  literally  felt  the  might  of  Christ  strength- 
ening me  by  his  Spirit  in  the  inner  man.  A 
powerful  temptation  to  view  our  present  circum- 
stances with  apprehension  Avas  forced  into  my 
mind.  I  felt  that  it  was  a  device  of  Satan,  and  I 
instantly  fastened  my  hold  on  the  Lord  Jesus. 
Dehghtfully  did  I  feel  that,  leaning  on  his  power, 
I  feared  no  evil ;  and,  with  a  sense  of  his  presence 
to  cheer  and  bless  me,  I  had  '  a  heart  for  any  fate.' 
Never  did  I  experience  so  vividly  that  it  was  not  I 
myself,  but  '  Christ  in  me,'  that  won  the  victory ; 
or  rather,  that  it  was  faith  which  seized  hold  on 
Christ's  right  arm,  and  thus  Avrouglit  the  triumph. 
I  seemed  at  the  time  as  if,  in  my  complete  nothing- 
ness, I  had  a  power  in  my  hand  with  which  I  could 
resist  the  devil,  and  stand  firm  against  all  his  wiles. 

"  Friday,  January  10,  Eleven  p.m. — I  bless 
and  praise  God  that  this  day  has  been,  I  think, 
the  happiest  of  my  life.    The  fire  of  divine  love  has 


166  NEW  TKIALS. 

been  burning  on  the  mean  altar  of  my  heart,  and 
the  torch-hght  of  faith  has  been  in  full  trim,  so 
that  I  have  only  had  to  wave  it  to  the  right  hand 
or  left,  in  order  to  discern  spiritual  things  in 
heavenly  places.  With  it  this  poor  heart  of  mine, 
that  so  long  has  been  a  dark  cavern,  wherein  with 
mournful  consciousness  of  sin  and  vileness  I  have 
withdrawn  myself  and  fainted  at  the  rebuke  of  the 
Lord,  has  now  been  lighted  up,  and  shewn  to  me 
both  swept  and  garnished,  sprinkled  as  it  is  with 
the  blood  of  Christ  Jesus.  And  now  it  is  made  a 
temple-shrine  for  an  indwelling  God.  And  lo !  I 
have  come  out  from  my  darkness,  and  am  made 
light  in  the  Lord,  and,  like  Elijah  standing  on  the 
mount  before  the  Lord,  I  no  longer  pine  in  the 
sadness  of  gloom  and  disappointment,  as  not 
understanding  'the  ways  of  God  with  men,'  and 
his  providential  as  well  as  his  spiritual  guidance  of 
his  children ;  but  awakening  up  from  my  reverie, 
and  finishing  my  journey  in  the  wilderness,  I  learn 
how  great  is  the  mystery  of  godliness,  and  how 
needful  is  the  chastening  of  the  Lord  to  his 
children,  whilst  as  a  Father  he  afflicts  us  for  our 
profit,  and  humbles  and  abases  us  by  the  rod  of  his 
hand,  and  gives  us  to  feel  our  poverty  of  spirit,  our 
helplessness,  and  unworthiness,  as  a  needful  pre- 
paration to  our  beholding  his  glory,  and  hearing 
the  still  small  A'oice  of  his  love.  To-day,  the  voice 
of  tlic  Lord  has  sounded  in  my  ears,  '  Come  up 
hither;'    yea,  I  have  ascended  up  on  high,  and 


NEW   TRIALS.  167 

dwelt  with  God  in  love.  Now,  now,  now,  the 
Lord  Jesus  is  in  me  the  hope  of  eternal  glory. 

"  Saturday,  Jan.  11. — Another  day  of  joy  and 
peace,  and  sweet  communion  with  my  Lord. 
During  the  evening  had  a  very  sweet  season  with 
the  men  in  prayer,  each  one,  after  the  good  old 
Methodist  fashion,  praying.  Bless  God,  it  was  a 
favored  time.  The  Spirit  of  God  was  with  us,  and 
we  sang  together  with  heart  and  voice.  Erwin  is, 
thank  God,  laboring  under  deep  conviction  and 
penitential  sorrow  for  sin.  I  have  no  doubt  now 
of  his  soon  being  one  with  us.  This  is  indeed  a 
matter  of  praise  to  God." 

The  present  circumstances  of  the  mission  party 
were  very  critical.  Their  boats  were  aground, 
and  there  was  no  prospect  of  getting  them  afloat 
for  a  week.  And  to  make  the  peril  imminent,  two 
of  their  number  returned  from  a  walk  with  the 
tidings  that  there  were  natives  in  the  adjoining 
cove.  But  amidst  these  dangers  and  disasters  a 
holy  joy  was  filling  the  mind  of  Mr  Williams,  and 
rendering  him  forgetful  of  every  temporal  evil. 
The  only  member  of  the  expedition  of  whom  he 
stood  in  doubt  was  becoming  "  a  brother  in  the 
kingdom  and  patience  of  Jesus  Christ  ; "  and, 
under  the  teaching  of  the  Comforter,  his  own  spirit 
was  surcharged  with  those  sublime  realisations 
which  render  the  believer  more  than  heroic.  It  is 
thus  that  he  writes  in  his  Antarctic  Patmos  : — 

"  Monday,  Jan.  13. — Last  night,  I  was  awak- 


168  NEW  TRIALS. 

ened  by  thoughts  crowding  into  my  mind.  Tho 
eye  of  faith  ran  over  the  foundations  of  its  hope, 
and  discovered  such  glorious  marks  of  everlasting 
stability.  I  saw  a  necessity  for  the  atonement  in 
the  astonishing  baseness  to  which  our  nature  had 
fallen,  and  for  the  power  and  wisdom  engaged  in 
our  restoration  being  nothing  short  of  God — the 
eternal  God  manifest  in  the  flesh.  As  clearly  as  I 
perceived  that  body  and  soul  make  one  man,  so 
.clearly  and  certainly  did  I  see  that  God  and  man 
make  one  Christ,  '  the  Wonderful,  the  Counsellor, 
the  Mighty  God,  the  Prince  of  Peace.'  Now  my 
soul  drank  plentifully  of  the  streams  which  make 
glad  the  city  of  our  God.  Every  feature  of  the 
Divine  sacrifice  acquired  additional  value  in  my 
eyes.  I  bowed  before  the  Lord,  and  humhled  my 
soul  before  him  who  saith  of  himself,  '  I  am  he 
that  liveth  and  was  dead,  and,  behold,  I  am  alive 
for  evermore,  Amen  ;  and  have  the  keys  of  hell 
and  of  death.'  I  felt  tliat  tlie  inestimable  price  of 
my  Saviour's  blood  was  put  into  my  hand.  I  could 
not  tell  nor  count  the  riches  I  was  worth ;  yea,  I 
could  scarce  grasp  the  thought  that  all  this  was 
mine.  But  God  strengthened  my  faith  again,  and 
I  realised  the  glorious  truth  that  with  such  a  price 
in  my  hand  I  could  buy  all  heaven  and  all  the  pro- 
mises of  God.  I  did  apply  the  golden  key  to 
heaven's  treasury,  and  with  it  opened  the  store- 
house of  God's  exceeding^  great  and  precious  pro- 
mises.    ,With  glorious  light  streaming  in  my  face, 


NEW  TRIALS. 


1G9 


and  my  heart  dancing  for  very  joy,  I  saw  such  a 
meaning  in  the  words,  '  Grace  reigns  through 
righteousness  unto  eternal  life,  by  Jesus  Christ  our 
Lord,'  as  filled  me  with  wonder  and  '  great  admira- 
tion.' Indeed,  I  was  lost  in  wonder,  love,  and  joy. 
Grace  reigns  !  Mercy  is  on  the  throne  of  Omni- 
potence !  Love  is  exalted, — to  do  its  own  will,  to 
follow  its  own  promptings,  to  give  out  of  a  full 
hand,  to  bless  according  to  its  boundless  charity. 
Grace  reigns !  Jesus  is  enthroned !  He  who 
loved  us  and  gave  himself  for  us,  has  all  power  in 
heaven  and  on  earth,  and  is  ascended  to  give  gifts 
unto  men,  and  to  dispense  eternal  bliss  to  his  re- 
deemed people.  What  I  saw  and  felt  of  Christ's 
love  no  tongue  can  tell.  Heaven  was  begun  below. 
How  long  I  continued  feasting  on  such  a  feast  of 
fat  things  and  on  this  '  wine  of  the  kingdom  '  well 
refined,  I  cannot  tell.  But  some  hours  must  have 
passed,  for  with  the  exertion  of  the  spiritual  and 
mental  energies  nature  was  all  but  exhausted.  I 
was  just  on  the  point  of  dozing,  when  the  imagery 
of  Israel  singing  in  the  wilderness  was  presented 
to  me :  'I  will  give  her  her  vineyards  from  thence, 
and  the  valley  of  Achor  for  a  door  of  hope :  and 
she  shall  sing  there,  as  in  the  days  of  her  youth, 
and  as  in  the  day  when  she  came  up  out  of  the 
land  of  Egypt.'*  I  recognised  the  promise,  and, 
whilst  praise   swelled  upon  my  lips,   melody  was 

*  Hosea  ii.  15. 


170  NEW   TRIALS. 

made  ill  my  heart,  and  I  felt  the  blessedness  of 
an  intimate  communion  with  those  who  sing  the 
song  of  Moses  and  the  Lamb. 

"  0  glorious  hope  of  perfect  love  ! 
It  lifts  me  up  to  things  above  ; 
,      It  bears  on  eagle  wings ; 
It  gives  my  ravish 'd  soul  a  taste, 
And  makes  me  for  some  moments  feast 
With  Jesus'  priests  and  kings. 

"  0  that  I  might  at  once  go  up  ! 
No  more  on  this  side  Jordan  stop. 

But  now  the  land  possess : 
This  moment  end  my  legal  years. 
Sorrows,  and  sins,  and  doubts,  and  fears, 
A  howling  wilderness ! 

"  Now,  0  my  Joshua,  bring  me  in. 
Cast  out  thy  foes  ;  the  inbred  sin. 

The  carnal  mind,  remove ; 
The  purchase  of  thy  death  divide. 
And  oh,  with  all  the  sanctified 

Give  me  a  'lot'  of  love  ! 

"Yesterday  I  held  a  prayer-meeting  in  the 
morning  with  the  men ;  in  the  evening  I  read  to 
them  one  of  Mr  Wesley's  sermons.  Dear  Erwin  is 
thirsting  after  the  righteousness  which  is  of  God. 
I  am  delighted  to  see  his  humble  and  contrite 
spirit  before  the  Lord.  Bless  God,  he  is  not  far 
from  the  kingdom  of  heaven. 

"  Lennox  Harbour,  Saturday,  January  18. — 
Come  to-morrow,  Sunday,  we  shall  have  been 
here  just  a  fortnight.  Many  have  been  the  mercies 
we  have  experienced  since  coming  here.  In  our 
utterly  helpless  state,  both  boats  aground,  and  the 


NEW  TRIALS.  171 

tide  not  reaching  anything  near  to  them,  we  day 
by  day  verified  the  gracious  and  merciful  protec- 
tion of  God's  providence  in  keeping  the  Fuegians 
unapprised  of  our  situation,  and  hindering  their 
coming.  We  did  not  expect  to  get  off  before  the 
return  of  the  next  spring-tide,  which  would  be  at 
least  ten  days ;  and  during  this  time,  of  course, 
there  would  be  many  possibilities  of  our  situation 
being  discovered.  Jammed  as  the  Pioneer  Avas 
among  the  rocks,  so  that  any  one  bent  on  doing  us 
an  injury  could  stand  right  above  us;  and  to  this 
add  the  weakness  of  our  small  party  :  and  to  human 
thinking,  no  position  could  present  more  occasion  for 
apprehension  and  anxiety.  But  I  believe  not  one 
of  our  party,  felt  either,  or  if  any  one  of  us  did, 
there  was  at  least  no  indication  of  it ;  but  our 
solicitude  was  hushed  into  repose  by  our  hope  in 
God.  The  boats  were  separated  at  some  distance 
from  each  other,  and  we  thus  made  two  parties. 
It  was  to  me  a  favorable  occasion  for  pressing  on 
the  men  the  need  they  had,  together  with  myself, 
of  doubling  our  diligence  to  '  make  our  calling  and 
election  sure  ;'  and  of  uniting  with  them  in  fervent 
prayer  unto  God.  The  special  presence  of  the 
Lord  was  felt  on  two  occasions,  whilst  wo  held 
prayer-meetings.  I  have  great  hope  of  dear  Erwin, 
that  God  will  make  him  a  blessino'  to  us  and  to 
himself.  It  is  this  coming  to  the  vital  matters,  and 
urging  on  the  soul  an  immediate  consideration  of 
the  truth  as  it  is  in  Jesus ;  pressing  home  the  con- 


172  NEW  TKIALS. 

viction,  at  the  same  time  carrying  help  to  the 
stricken  penitent,  encouraging  him  to  seek  and 
helping  him  to  find,  according  to  God's  promise,  a 
present  salvation, — it  is  this  which  makes  such  a 
material  difference  betwixt  our  Metliodistic  mode  of 
procedure  and  that  of  many  other  denominations 
of  Christians.  Many  brands  are  thus  plucked  fi-om 
the  burning,  who,  according  to  a  more  formal  mode 
of  administering  the  things  of  God,  might  never 
have  been  saved." 

Captain  Gardiner  and  Mr  Maidment  were  mem- 
bers of  the  Church  of  England,  and,  in  the  hope  of 
its  being  eventually  taken  up  by  some  Church 
Society,  it  was  agreed  that  the  Fuegian  Mission 
should  be  conducted  on  Church  of  England  princi- 
ples. This  arrangement  was  with  the  entire  assent 
of  Mr  Williams ;  but  it  is  not  wonderful  thcit  re- 
miniscences of  love-feasts  and  class-meetings  should 
have  mingled  with  his  adopted  churchmanship. 
And  having  in  his  three  Cornish  brethren  so  many 
live  coals,  it  was  all  the  easier  to  set  the  fire  a-burn- 
ing.  His  faithfulness  and  fervor  were,  we  trust, 
blessed  to  the  salvation  of  the  only  member  of  the 
expedition  who  had  not  yet  tasted  that  the  Lord  is 
gracious.  In  being  thus  instant  in  season,  Mr 
Williams  set  an  example  to  every  Christian  ;  even 
as  the  personal  urgency  which  Mr  Wilhams  justly 
claims  as  a  distinction  of  AVesleyan  Methodism,  is  a 
lesson  to  all  the  churciies.  But,  to  return  to 
Lennox  Harbour,  and  our  interrupted  narrative  : — • 


NEW  TRIALS.  173 

"  On  the  day  of  our  arrival,  we  saw  two  fine 
Fuegian  dogs,  which  led  us  to  expect  that  the 
natives  were  not  far  off.  In  the  course  of  the 
week  we  saw  the  dogs  again,  but  still  no  natives. 
In  the  neighbouring  cove  there  was  a  well-built 
wigwam,  and  an  enormous  pile  of  mussel-shells, 
the  work,  I  should  think,  of  many  generations. 
Here,  too,  not  far  from  the  wigwam,  we  found 
human  remains — a  skull  and  bones  of  the  ex- 
tremities. In  the  cove  on  Sunday  last,  the 
12th,  we  saw  a  canoe,  and  the  smoke  issuing  from 
a  wigwam,  but  when  we  looked  the  next  day  the 
natives  were  gone.  We  were  well  pleased  to  think 
they  had  not  perceived  us. 

"  Day  after  day  we  waited  patiently  for  the  moon 
to  enlarge  her  borders  and  approach  to  full,  that 
we  might  by  the  spring-tide  get  our  boats  off.  On 
Wednesday  we  dug  away  the  sand  from  under  the 
Speedwell's  keel,  and  tried,  by  tackles  and  rollers 
under  her,  to  get  her  nearer  the  sea,  that  we  might 
make  doubly  sure  of  success.  However,  this  was 
a  vain  effort,  the  weight  of  the  iron  decks  rendering 
it  utterly  impracticable.  We  made  greater  efforts 
the  next  day,  turning  in  a  stream  of  fresh  water 
and  damming  it  up  around  her,  and  then  using  the 
lever  and  rollers  as  before ;  but  Avith  no  avail.  The 
Captain  thought  that  the  moon  was  at  full  that  day, 
and  as  the  tide  was  still  deficient,  not  more  tluvn 
reaching  to  the  stern  of  tlic  Speedivell,  which  was 
nearest  the  sea,  he  con;>ii1cicd    ihat   we  had   little 


174  NEW  TRIALS. 

hope  of  getting  off  at  all,  unless  a  similar  combina- 
tion of  circumstances  should  occur,  as  was  the  cause 
of  our  driving  so  high  upon  the  beach,  viz.,  a  gale 
bloAving  from  the  N.N.E.  and  a  high  spring-tide. 

"  Friday  the  17th. — I  awoke,  and  sweet  was 
the  comuumion  of  my  soul  with  the  Lord  in 
prayer.  I  felt  that  I  could  trust  God,  yea,  for  all 
things.  It  was  sufficient  for  me  to  know  that  my 
God  ordered  all  events,  and  that  he  had  all  power 
to  do  whatever  pleased  him.  Whilst  thus  hanging 
upon  Him,  it  suddenly  occurred  whether  I  could 
believe  that  we  should  get  out  of  our  present 
difficulties.  Faith  unhesitatingly  replied,  Yes. 
But  when  ?  when  wilt  thou  get  out  of  them  ? 
When  it  shall  please  God.  '  Couldst  thou  not 
believe  God  was  able  to  'send  his  water  high 
enough  to  float  the  boats  this  very  morning  ? ' 
Yes,  replied  faith.  I  could  believe  it  without  a 
doubt.  *  But  now  ? '  said  the  same  questioner 
within  me.  '  Now,'  I  thought,  '  now  ? '  It  re- 
quired only  the  pause  of  a  moment  to  answer, 
'  Yes,  now.  I  do  believe  that  God  will  send  liis 
water  this  very  morning,  and  float  the  boats,  that 
we  shall  get  off.'  A  wondrous  power  constrained 
me  to  believe  it.  It  was  no  act  of  my  natural, 
fleshly  mind,  but  the  Spirit  of  God  gave  light  to 
see  the  Lord's  Avill,  and  that  therefore  I  might 
believe  he  could  precisely  do  what  he  suggested  to 
nic  to  believe.  Scarce  had  the  assent  of  my  foitli 
been  given,  \Yhcn  I  licaid  one  of  the  men,  who  had 


NEW  TRIALS.  175 

just  got  up,  and  gone  on  deck,  say,  '  She  is  afloat ! ' 
From  any  natural  ground  I  had  not  the  shghtest 
suspicion,  much  less  intimation,  of  the  fact.  It  was 
not  long  afterwards  that  our  boat  {Pioneer),  which 
had  so  dangerously  entered  among  the  rocks,  but 
as  wondrously  escaped  injury  from  them,  was  once 
more  in  open  water,  and  safe.  The  Speedwell  was 
also  sufficiently  surrounded  with  water  to  have 
enabled  her  to  float,  only  that  the  rollers  which 
were  under  her  raised  her  considerably,  and  did 
not  allow  of  her  getting  oif.  This,  however,  she 
did  the  next  day  (Saturday),  the  rollers  having 
been  taken  away.  And  thus  once  more  we  were 
out  of  our  difficulties. 

"  The  natural  cause  of  this  singular  rising  of  the 
tide,  contrary  to  our  expectations,  was,  that  here 
the  diff'erence  between  two  tides  is  very  remark- 
able, and  it  being  so  low  the  day  before,  we  did 
not  see  any  probability  of  there  being  a  rise  so 
much  above  the  level  of  what  it  was  only  a  tide  or 
two  before. 

"  As  it  was  impracticable  for  us  to  continue  any 
longer  in  Lennox  Harbour,  it  being  too  exposed 
for  us  to  ride  safely  at  anchor,  our  tackling  being 
not  strong  enough,  and  we  had  had  enough  of 
beaching  the  boats,  we  were  fain  to  seek  new 
quarters.  Some  few  days  before,  the  Captain, 
with  Mr  Maidment,  had  walked  across  the  country 
to  explore  for  a  fresh  cove,  and  found  one  wliich 
promised  to  answer  well,  and  to  which  he  gave  the 


176  NKW  TKIALS. 

name  of  Mercy  Cove.     Thither  we  now  dh-ected 
our  course. 

"  DurniP-  the  first  week  of  our  residence  at 
Lennox  Harbour,  with  the  exception  of  seeing  the 
two  dogs,  whicli  crossed  the  beach  and  barked  at 
us  on  two  different  occasions,  we  had  no  reason  to 
think  natives  were  near  us.  On  Tuesday  the  14th, 
a  party  came  to  us.  It  consisted  of  two  men,  and 
Ave  beheve  one  family.  They  were  very  quiet  and 
docile,  and  one  of  the  men  very  good-looking,  with 
good  feelings  exhibited  in  his  peaceful  and  pleasant 
countenance.  It  seemed  quite  unwarrantable  and 
uncharitable  to  think  evil  of  him,  or  to  suspect  he 
Avould  do  us  harm.  The  child  they  brought  with 
them  was  a  very  interesting  little  vivacious  fellow. 
The  father  was  most  careful  of  him,  and  scarcely 
allowed  us  to  handle  him.  He  was  well  wrapped 
uj)  in  skins.  All  this  was  pleasing,  and  it  is  a 
pleasing  trait — conspicuous  in  the  Fuegian  charac- 
ter, as  far  as  we  have  yet  been  able  to  judge — their 
fondness  for  their  children.  As  these  were  the 
only  party  that  we  saw  whilst  we  were  in  the  har- 
bour, we  were  very  easy  as  long  as  they  continued 
with  us.  We  could  not  tell,  hoAvever,  but  that  they 
might  go  off  for  others.  They  did  leave  us  on  the 
Friday,  but  came  back  on  the  folloAving  morning, 
and  again  in  the  course  of  the  morning  left  us. 

"  Late  on  Saturday  afternoon,  at  high  Avater, 
after  experiencing  fresh  difficulties  in  getting  our 
boats  over  the  irregular  sand-banks  in  our  Avay,  and 


NEW  TRIALS,  177 

grounding  repeatedly,  at  length  we  found  all  right, 
and  shaped  our  course  for  jMercy  Cove,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Lennox  Harbour.  When  abreast 
of  a  cluster  of  islands  adjacent  to  Luif  Island,  we 
saw  a  large  body  of  natives  on  the  beach  to  the 
left  of  us,  and  our  old  acquaintance  of  Lennox 
Harbour  on  the  island  to  the  right.  They  were 
en^ao-ed  in  fishino;  or  hunting  seals,  which  were 
very  plentiful  near  to  the  spot.  They  no  sooner 
caught  sight  of  us  than,  as  usual,  the  uproar  was 
great;  shouting  and  gesticulating  were  the  order 
of  the  day.  Canoes  immediately  put  off,  and  they 
paddled  away  with  a  speed  which  exceeded  all  our 
previous  thoughts  of  their  skill.  We  were  now 
within  a  short  distance  of  Mercy  Cove ;  but  it  was 
evident  that  if  we  proceeded,  the  whole  of  the  large 
party,  consisting  of  about  five-and-twenty  persons, 
would  follow  us,  and  we  should  be  at  their  mercy. 
We  therefore  regretfully  turned  back  upon  our 
path,  and  cast  anchor  in  Lennox  Harbour. 

"  Next  morning,  Sunday  the  19th,  just  a  fort- 
night after  our  first  arrival  in  the  harbour,  the 
Captain  thought  it  advisable  to  get  under  weigh 
again,  with  the  intention  of  going  to  Cape  Rees  or 
Blomefield  Harbour.  His  reason  was,  that  he  felt 
sure  the  natives  would  follow  us,  and  we  should 
not  be  able  to  spend  a  quiet  Sabbath  where  wo 
were;  and  he  thought  it  very  desirable  that  wo 
should  get  off  early,  and  arrive  at  our  fresh  desti- 
nation, wherever  that  should  be,  early  enough  to 

SI 


178  NEW  TRIALS. 

hold  oirr  religious  services.  We  weighed  anchor, 
therefore,  soon  after  four  o'clock ;  with  a  wind  at 
first  light  and  favorable,  and  a  promising  morning. 
However,  we  had  scarcely  got  into  Oglander  Bay, 
when  the  wind  freshened  and  became  dead  ahead. 
We  consequently  beat  about,  still  persisting  in  our 
intention.  Whilst  tacking,  the  two  boats  ran  foul 
of  each  other,  and  carried  away  our  bowsprit, 
doing  some  shght  injuries  also  to  the  Speedwell. 
It  was  a  time  of  great  danger,  and  the  wonder  is 
that  one  or  both  of  us  had  not  our  bows  stove  in, 
— the  rudder  of  the  Pioneer  not  being  seaworthy. 
We  therefore  bore  away  for  Lennox  Harbour,  and 
reached  it  again.  As  we  entered  the  mouth  of  the 
harbour,  the  wind  being  right  ahead,  and  our  bow- 
sprit and  jib  having  been  carried  away,  we  missed 
stays,  and  were  obliged  to  run  an  anchor  out  in 
haste  to  keep  ourselves  off  the  rocks.  Our  posi- 
tion was  a  fresh  instance  of  imminent  peril.  The 
wind  now  blew  a  hurricane ;  and  at  first  our  an- 
chor dragged,  and  we  were  threatened  with  de- 
struction ;  but  the  kelp  did  us  good  service,  and 
we  held  on.  Nearly  the  whole  day  the  pitiless 
blasts  smote  us,  and  the  foamino-  water  rao-ed 
around  us,  the  dark  clouds  pouring  on  us  their 
pelting  hailstones  and  deluges  of  rain.  It  was 
really  fearful.  We  were  anything  but  sheltered, 
being  nearly  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  and 
within  thirty  or  forty  feet  of  the  rocks,  against 
which  had  we  dashed,  avc  must  inevitably  have  been 


NEW  TRIALS.  179 

lust.  But  God  ill  Lis  providential  mercy  was 
Avith  us.  We  all  felt,  however,  that  we  had  done 
wrong  in  getting  under  weigh  on  the  Sunday 
morning;  and  greatly  did  I  feel  relieved  when  I 
heard  the  Captain  say  that  he  also  felt  it  wrong. 
'  Never,'  said  he,  'never  have  I  commenced  a  voyage 
or  a  journey  on  the  Sabbath  before,  and  this  shall 
be  the  last  time.' 

"  Reliance  Cove,  Wednesday,  January  22. — 
On  Monday  following,  the  20th,  we  again  got  under 
weigh  for  Blomefield  Harbour,  the  day  being  fine. 
Our  doing  so  was  contrary  to  the  impression  I  had 
derived  from  what  had  occurred  on  our  former 
attempts.  However,  I  gave  no  expression  whatever 
to  my  thoughts  ;  and  there  were  such  great  advan- 
tages to  be  reaped  from  the  nature  of  the  harbour, 
the  serenity  and  completeness  of  the  shelter,  that  it 
appeared  very  desirable  we  should  go  there.  In 
our  way  to  it  we  passed,  about  mid-day  or  some- 
what later,  Cape  Rees,  where  a  snug  cove  seemed 
to  invite  us  in,  and  the  wind  falling  calm,  we 
dropped  almost  into  the  opening  of  it.  Nothing, 
however,  would  do  but  Blomefield ;  so  on  we  went 
as  soon  as  the  wind  sprang  up. 

"  We  arrived  off  Blomefield  Harbour  at  half- 
past  eight  o'clock.  As  we  got  in  sight  of  the 
harbour,  we  saw  several  fires  a  little  to  the  eastward 
of  Cape  Despard,  and  we  were  soon  apprised  that 
there  was  a  good  party  of  the  natives  present. 
Three  canoes  put  off,  and  it  being  calm  at  the  time, 


180  NEW  TRIALS. 

tliey  shortly  came  up  with  us.  Amongst  them  was 
one  of  our  Banner  Cove  acquaintances,  and  a  mem- 
ber of  the  leao'ue  oro-anised  against  us.  There 
were  some  very  fine  men  amongst  them,  who,  one 
especially,  we  thought  must  belong  to  the  main- 
land. 

"  Our  errand  was  now  altoo-ether  useless.  It 
was  clear  we  should  have  no  rest  nor  quiet,  and 
equally  clear  that  the  natives  would  soon  accumu- 
late an  overwhelming  force,  and  overpower  our 
small  and  feeble  party.  It  was  agreed  that  our 
only  course  was,  late  as  it  was  now  getting,  to 
turn  back  upon  our  route,  and  make  again  for 
Banner  Cove,  as  a  temporary  asylum.  We  kept 
under  sail  all  night,  it  being  for  th^  most  part  of 
the  time  a  calm,  or  but  very  little  wind.  Whilst 
we  lay  becalmed  off  the  north-west  end  of  Ficton 
Island,  a  canoe  put  off,  in  which  we  found  the  inti- 
mate associate  of  Jemmy,  the  great  conccrter  of 
tlio  attacks  upon  us,  and  our  most  troublesome 
acquaintance.  This  circumstance  at  once  apprised 
us  that  Banner  Cove  would  be  no  shelter  for  us; 
for  we  were  quite  certain  that  the  hue  and  cry 
would  go  forth,  and  that  they  Avould  all  be  around 
us  very  soon.  Thus  being  driven  out  of  every 
asylum,  and  it  being  quite  impracticable,  in  the 
crippled  state  of  our  boats,  to  beat  about  and 
dodge  off  and  on  from  place  to  place,  an  oppor- 
tunity Avas  sought  to  confer  together  as  to  the 
course  we  should,  in  the  midst  of  such  perplexities, 


NEW  TRIALS.  181 

pursue.  The  Captain  offered  up  prayer, — a  prayer 
breathed  in  simphcity  and  godly  sincerity,  ana  in 
firm  reliance  upon  the  goodness  and  providential 
direction  of  our  heavenly  Father ;  and  afterwards 
it  was  decided,  that,  as  the  only  alternative  now 
left,  we  should  pursue  our  course  to  the  eastward, 
and  if  unable  to  find  a  convenient  cove,  that  we 
should  go  on  to  Spaniard's  Harbour. 

"  The  wind  favoring  us,  we  proceeded  accord- 
ingly. At  half-past  eleven  we  found  a  cove 
under  Cape  St  Pio,  Avhere  we  might  make  at  least 
a  short  stay,  and  get  fresh  supplies  of  water  and 
wood.  We  accordingly  anchored,  and  in  the  after- 
noon went  ashore,  and  walked  over  the  headland 
till  we  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Jessie.  In  the  course 
of  our  walk,  which,  going  and  returning,  occupied 
five  hours,  we  saw  a  guanaco  acting  as  a  scout, 
perched  on  the  highest  point  of  land,  and  watching 
us  with  a  very  narrow  scrutiny.  It  did  not  allow 
us  to  get  very  near,  but,  with  a  leap  and  a  bound 
in  the  air,  gave  the  signal  to  the  herd  and  started 
off.  We  saw  the  footprints  of  these  animals  very 
numerous,  and  also  many  Indian  paths.  The  only 
other  trace  of  natives  was  a  wigwam  near  the 
beach.  • 

"  Thursday,  Jan.  23. — Having  got  the  rudder 
put  to  rights,  and  having  obtained  fresh  supplies  of 
wood  and  water,  we  left  Reliance  Cove,  at  a 
quarter  to  ten  a.m.,  with  a  fair-weather  sky.  As 
wo  passed   one   of   X\\-^   lvi:!i--<Mit    rock^.    we    were 


182  NEW   TKIALS. 

interested  in  seeing  tlie  numbei*  of  fur  seals  which 
^ySe  grouped  upon  it.  We  were  becahned  for  a 
time,  within  a  short  distance  of  them ;  their  grunt- 
ino-s  amused  us  much.  Towards  evening  the  wind 
freshened,  and  we  sought  for  shelter  in  Slogget 
Bay,  and  anchored  for  the  night  in  West  Cove. 

"  Next  morning,  Friday,  24th,  we  again  weighed 
anchor  at  a  quarter  to  twelve.  We  had  a  good 
run,  nothing  occurring  to  us  but  the  loss  of  the 
sprit  to  the  Speedwell,  which  happened  while 
beating  in  for  Spaniard  Harbour,  where  we 
anchored  at  a  quarter  past  nine  p.m.  We  now 
hoped  we  were  got  to  a  place  of  refuge,  where  we 
might  for  a  time,  at  least,  have  rest  from  our 
wanderings  ;  and  remembering  our  bad  and 
troublesome  and  long  passage  in  the  Ocean  Queen 
over  the  ground  we  had  now  with  so  much  pleasant- 
ness and  facility  traversed,  we  were  very  thankful, 
seeing  plainly  the  hand  of  our  God  in  his  mercy 
and  favoring  providence.  To  God  we  did  unitedly 
give  the  praise  and  the  glory. 

"  Next  morning,  Saturday  the  25th,  perceiving 
an  opening  from  the  sea  to  what  appeared  a 
lagoon  of  fresh  water,  we  resolved  to  take  up  our 
position  there.  We  got  on  shore,  and  I  took  a 
long  stroll.  Whilst  pursuing  my  way  along  the 
bank  of  a  mountain  torrent,  I  was  struck  with  the 
many  advantages  tlie  country  here  possesses  over 
what  we  had  seen  elsewhere.  In  some  spots  there 
was  really  good  meadoAV  land,  and  the  scenery  wa^ 


NEW  TRIALS.  183 

pleasing — valleys,  and  copses  of  wood,  with  a  bold 
range  of  mountains  and  hilly  bluffs,  meeting  the 
eye  in  its  furthest  range.  The  sun  was  shining 
out  quite  warm  ;  indeed,  the  weather  was  delightful, 
and  I  felt  a  real  pleasure  whilst  contemplating  the 
country  around  me,  and  joyous  and  pleasing  hopes 
threw  a  radiance  on  my  spirits.  I  began  to  think 
that  even  Tierra  del  Fuego  had  in  itself  natural 
charms  and  beauty,  and  that  it  could  put  on  a 
pleasing  aspect  and  claim  our  sympathy.  But 
when,  in  addition  to  such  physical  enjoyment,  I 
thought  of  the  poor  inhabitants  of  the  land  as 
eventually  brought  to  the  knowledge  of  a  Saviour, 
I  was  overjoyed  and  full  of  praise  to  God  at  what 
I  felt  of  his  goodness,  and  at  what  I  felt  of  hope 
and  expectation  from  that  goodness.  In  such  a 
sense  of  God's  blessing  and  favor,  I  knelt  down 
where  no  eye  but  His  could  see,  and  prayed,  and 
save  thanks. 

"  Keturnino-  to  the  boats,  I  found  them  anchored 
off  the  right  bank  of  the  river — the  side  opposite 
to  the  one  I  had  got  ashore — and,  as  the  tide  was 
ebbing,  they  were  both  aground ;  and  as  they  had 
no  means  of  sending  off  for  me,  it  was  necessary 
that  1  should  walk,  and  find  a  fordable  place  for 
crossing  the  stream.  I  tlicrefore  retraced  my 
steps,  and  scrambled  through  copse  and  brush- 
wood, some  of  which  consisted  of  a  species  of 
currant-L  ee,  and  was  so  strongly  entangled  it  was 
almost   impossible    to    get    through.     Penetrating 


184  JSEW  TiilALS. 

further  inland,  the  country  became  more  open  and 
trees  larger,  and  I  perceived  at  a  distance  a  few 
wigwams,  which  I  thought  it  not  prudent  to 
approach  any  nearer,  as  I  was  already  some  miles 
away  from  the  boats.  I  therefore  crossed  the 
river  here,  and  after  a  long  journey,  now  in  the 
forest  and  presently  again  in  the  plain,  with  some 
difficulty  in  finding  my  way  at  all,  I  got  back, 
having  been  absent  five  or  six  hours,  both  fatigued 
and  hungry. 

"  We  continued  at  Cook's  River  until  Tuesday, 
Jan.  28,  Avhen  finding  it  to  be  very  inconvenient 
for  us  to  get  ashore,  as  well  as  imprudent  to  be  so 
long  aground,  we  removed  to  a  well  sheltered  inlet, 
which  we  called  Earnest  Cove.  The  weather  every 
day  for  nearly  a  fortnight  had  been  fine,  the  sun 
quite  strong,  and  much  light  wind,  with  but  occa- 
sional showers  of  rain.  At  Lennox  Harbour  we 
had  it  very  fine,  and  in  our  various  journeys,  as 
well  as  since  our  arrival  in  Spaniard's  Harbour,  the 
weather  had  been  very  fine,  some  of  the  days  for  a 
short  time  equalling  in  warmth  and  brightness  a 
summer's  day  in  England.  At  nightfall,  however, 
it  generally  becomes  cold,  though  there  were  three 
exceptions  in  a  fortnight  to  that,  the  temperature 
remaining  high,  and  even  close.  We  were  much 
cheered  by  the  prevalence  of  fine  weather,  and 
how  greatly  it  had  favored  us  we  could  not  suffi- 
ciently estimate. 

"  Friday,   the   last    day    of   January,    after    a 


NEW  TRIALS.  185 

beautiful  day,  the  weather  began  to  look  squally 
and  to  rain  heavily,  and  continued  to  do  so  all 
night.  A  heavy  gale  was  blowing  out  in  the  offing, 
but  we  rode  very  snugly,  protected  from  the  wind 
which  blew  off  shore,  yet  feeling  the  swell  of  the 
sea ;  and  as  the  two  boats  were  moored,  one  ahead 
of  the  other,  with  an  anchor  to  seaward  and  a 
hawser  to  the  shore,  we  felt  the  strain  on  them 
caused  by  the  sea,  and  most  of  us  were  kept  awake 
throughout  the  night.  I  had  remarkable  impres- 
sions made  on  my  mind.  There  were  many  vivid 
suggestions  of  danger,  but  never  did  I  feel  so 
unaffected  by  the  thought.  A  very  heaven  of 
repose  and  love  was  around  me,  and  my  heart 
rested  so  assuredly  and  trusted  so  implicitly  in 
God,  that  it  was  blissful  to  feel  as  I  did.  Awakened 
repeatedly  by  the  jerk  of  the  hawser  and  the  strain 
of  the  boats,  and  hearing  the  roar  and  dash  of  the 
water  around,  and  the  pelting  of  the  hail  and  rain, 
and  the  howl  of  the  sweeping  blasts,  something 
would  point  at  danger  as  present;  but  I  quietly 
resigned  myself  to  slumber,  after  communion  with 
the  Keeper  of  Israel,  whose  eye  I  knew  was  over 
'me.  Some  time  betwixt  ten  and  twelve  o'clock 
next  morning,  whilst  calm  and  sheltered  from  the 
rough  weather,  I  heard  the  Captain  give  orders 
for  the  SiJeedwell  to  cast  off  from  our  stern, 
apprehensive,  it  seemed,  of  the  hawser  giving  way, 
as  both  boats  were  riding  by  it.  Scarce  a  minute 
elapsed  after  this  was  done,  before  the  concussion 


186  KfiW   TIJIALS. 

• 

of  tlie  boat  against  the  beach  was  felt,  and  ahnost 
as  instantly  a  swell  broke  over  her  stern,  and 
rushed  into  our  dormitory.  I  cou-ld  scarcely  credit 
my  senses.  Another,  and  another  thump,  and 
another  sea  breaking  in  over  us,  confirmed  me  in 
the  fact  that  sometliing  fearful  had  happened.  On 
looking  out,  the  Captain  and  Pearce  were  busily 
occupied  with  poles,  endeavouring  to  keep  her 
broadside  from  the  surf;  but  this  seemed  next  to 
impossible,  as  the  water  was  pouring  into  the  after 
part  of  the  boat,  tumbling  right  over  the  stern- 
sheets,  and  threatening  to  float  everything.  The 
poor  Pioneer  was  not  only  thumping  against  the 
beach,  which,  being  of  sand,  might  not  so  materially 
have  damaged  her;  but  it  was  evident  from  the 
grating  sound  that  her  bilge  was  upon  rocks. 
Owing  to  the  force  of  the  swell,  no  effort  could 
keep  her  from  swinging  upon  them,  and  she  rolled 
backwards  and  forwards  upon  the  surge,  threaten- 
ing to  knock  herself  to  pieces.  It  was  useless  to 
bail  any  longer,  and  we  soon  gave  up  all  hope  of 
doing  anything  for  her,  but  proceeded  as  rapidly 
as  we  could  to  get  our  things  out  of  her.  Our 
Captain,  always  first  in  everything,  now  got  into* 
our  so-called  cabin,  to  hand  out  the  things,  and  by 
this  time  our  boxes' were  already  floating,  and  the 
most  of  our  goods  were  wet.  Mr  Maidment  and  I 
waded  through  the  surf  and  the  swell  backwards 
and  forwards,  carrying  ashore  the  bedding  and 
tools  as  the  Captain  and  Pearce  handed  them  out. 


KBW  TKIALS.  187 

By  the  time  wo  had  cleared  out  most  of  the  cargo, 
the  water  had  risen  as  high  as  the  thwart,  and  the 
Captain's  two  boxes  floated  themselves  out  into 
the  stern-sheets,  with  their  contents.  My  chest 
was  too  large  to  admit  of  being  removed,  and  had 
to  remain  in. 

"  During  all  this  time  it  was  raining  and  hailing 
in  heavy  showers;  and  we  looked  most  miserable. 
But  1  felt  neither  cast  down  nor  much  discom- 
forted. A  strong  consolation  sustained  me ;  it  was 
my  God  who  gave  it  me.  I  have  often,  under 
ordinary  circumstances,  as  being  wetted  by  a 
shower  of  rain  in  England,  experienced  more 
depression  and  discomfort  than  all  that  I  felt  on 
this  occasion.  Indeed,  the  strong  arm  of  God  was 
so  around  me,  that  I  felt  more  happiness  in  His 
presence  and  support,  than  pain  in  contemplating 
this  disaster,  or  distress  from  exposure  to  the 
weather  and  the  water.  Besides,  something  seemed 
to  whisper  and  tell  me  that  all  was  right,  that  this 
was  a  movement  of  God's  providence  in  our  favor. 
And  I  did  not  doubt  but  that  it  was. 

"We  had  done  all  that  could  be  done,  closing 
up  the  fore  hatchway,  as  not  much  water  was  in 
this  section  of  the  boat,  and  we  had  no  alternative 
but  to  let  her  drive  with  the  advancing  tide  and 
take  the  strand.  It  was  impossible  to  carry  an 
anchor  out  to  sea,  as,  although  we  had  the  day 
before  succeeded  in  making  another  raft,  yet  it 
was  too  light  to  bear  the  anchor  and  chain  with  a 


188 


NEW  TRIALS. 


man  on  it ;  besides,  the  heavy  swell  of  itself  ren- 
dered this  impracticable. 

"  Towards  nightfall,  it  came  on  a  storm  of  snow, 
and  we  were  heartily  glad  to  take  shelter  in  a 
large  cavern  in  the  rocks,  which  opened  to  the  sea, 
and  indeed  at  high  water  it  was  cut  off  by  the  sea 
rising  some  way  into  it.  It  was  very  spacious,  and 
after  running  some  thirty  yards  back,  branched  off 
at  either  side  like  the  letter  T ;  but  these  flanks  did 
not  extend  yerj  far.  Under  extraordinary  tides, 
with  gales  of  wind  concurring,  from  the  shells  cast  up 
at  the  further  end  of  the  cavern,  it  was  evident 
that  the  water  reached  even  so  far,  —  no  very 
agreeable  information  to  us,  in  prospect  of  taking 
up  our  night's  quarters  there.  However,  we  saw 
no  cause  for  present  apprehension,  as  the  wind  was 
not  blowing  into  the  harbour,  and  having  lighted  a 
fire  near  the  entrance  of  the  cave,  after  refresh- 
ment and  prayer,  we  committed  ourselves  to  God, 
as  unto  a  faithful  Creator. 

"  In  spite  of  wet  things,  and  in  spite  of  all  appre- 
hensions, we  managed  to  get  a  sound  night's  rest. 
The  roar  of  the  Avater,  as  it  washed  through  the 
archway  of  a  huge  rock  forming  a  prolongation 
of  one  of  the  sides  of  the  cavern,  and  met  Avith 
another  army  of  waves  from  the  opposite  side,  and 
then,  in  a  mighty  struggle  against  each  other, 
heaving  and  foaming,  came  bellowing  into  our  cnvo 
— this  roar  of  the  water  disturbed  me  now  and 
then,   and  the  thought  that,   like    some  voracious 


NEW   TKIALS.  189 

animal,  it  was  almost  upon  us,  just  occurred  to  me; 
but  it  could  not  drive  away  sleep  from  my  eyes, 
for  I  was  at  peace  with  God,  and  had  hope  in  Him. 
The  disaster  which  had  befallen  us  was  singularly 
presented  to  my  mind  as  ordered  by  Providence 
for  our  good.  Strangely  did  I  feel  impressed  that 
this  was  the  case,  and  felt  a  satisfaction  in  seeing 
the  stranded  boat,  that,  but  for  my  conviction  that 
it  was  God's  doing,  would  have  been  most  unrea- 
sonable. But  seeing  it  in  this  light,  how  great 
was  the  mercy  that  spared  us,  and  brought  it 
about  with  so  little  suifering  to  ourselves,  neither 
permitting  irretrievable  damage  to  our  clothes  and 
property,  nor  suffering  us  to  be  exposed  to  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather  without  an  asylum  and 
the  means  of  providing  comfort ! 

"  On  the  Saturday  evening,  before  retiring  to 
the  cavern,  the  Captain  still  entertained  hopes  that 
the  boat  would  be  repairable,  and  that  her  damages 
were  not  very  serious.  Next  morning,  however, 
she  was  found  to  be  stove  in,  and  that  by  an  unex- 
pected cause.  Upon  the  beach,  but  considerably 
above  the  tide  of  the  previous  evening,  and  not  in 
a  direct  line  with  the  boat,  was  a  large  tree  lying 
lengthwise  with  its  stump  to  the  sea ;  and  against 
this  the  boat  had  by  the  morning's  tide  been 
driven,  the  sea  rising  higher,  and  the  swell  turning 
her  bow  right  opposite  the  stem  of  the  tree,  so 
that  her  timbers  were  sadly  stove  in.     And  now 


190  NEW  TRIALS. 

also  we  found  her  bilge  so  much  injured  that  all 
hope  of  saving  her  was  at  once  given  up. 

"  Sunday  evening's  tide,  and  more  particularly 
that  on  Monday  morning,  completed  the  work  of 
destruction.  On  these  days  the  weather  continued 
most  stormy,  the  wind  blowing  a  furious  gale,  the 
sea  foaming,  and  the  lee-shore  opposite  presenting 
one  continued  line  of  breaking  sea.  Hail,  rain, 
and  snow,  succeeded  each  other,  or  were  all  com- 
bined by  fits  and  starts.  "VVe  were  entirely  con- 
fined to  our  cave,  which  proved  to  be  very  damp, 
and  the  smoke  of  our  fire  drifting  into  it  made  it 
altogether  no  very  desirable  residence;  although, 
in  our  emergency,  we  felt  it  to  be  indeed  a  merci- 
fully provided  shelter. 

"  On  Monday  evening,  for  the  fii'st  time,  we  we^ 
able  to  hold  communication  with  the  Speedwell, 
the  weather  subsiding  sufficiently  for  the  crew 
to  come  ashore  on  the  raft;  and  then  we  learned 
how  great  had  been  their  apprehension  concerning 
us,  and  their  own  alarm,  lest  they  themselves 
should  undergo  severe  disasters  by  being  loosed 
from  their  moorings.  They  were  obliged  to  take 
their  stove  and  attach  it  to  a  hawser  ready  to 
throw  out  as  an  anchor,  in  case  her  chain  cable 
parted ;  consequently  they  could  cook  nothing,  nor 
provide  tliemselves  tea  all  the  time.  We  were 
happy  again  to  comfort  one  another, 

"  We  continued  our  residence  in  the  cavern  by 
night   as  well  as  by  day,    until  Thursday  night, 


NEW  TRIALS.  191 

February  5,  when  we  again  made  use  of  the  after 
section  of  our  boat  as  a  sleeping-place,  and  on  the 
Friday  following  we  divided  her  into  her  original 
two  sections,  and  hauled  up  the  sound  section 
further  on  the  beach.  Here  we  have  at  present, 
Saturday,  February  8,  a  comfortable  sleeping-place, 
covered  with  our  oiled  canvas,  quite  protected  from 
the  wet,  though  not  quite  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
sea  should  a  very  high  tide  roll  in. 

"  My  night  in  the  cavern  has  been  somewhat 
restless,  feeling  the  damp  and  the  gloom  of  it,  and 
smothered  by  the  smoke  which  is  condensed  within 
its  walls.  Again  for  four  days  in  succession  I  have 
had  all  my  linen,  and  nearly  all  my  clothes,  lying- 
out  on  the  beach  to  dry ;  being  obliged  to  rinse 
nearly  the  whole  of  them,  in  order  to  clear  them 
from  salt  water.  But  it  required  constant  activity 
to  improve  every  glance  of  sunshine,  and  to  snatch 
them  under  covert  at  the  approach  of  a  storm. 
Owing  to  the  constant  rains  the  ground  is  now  like 
a  sponge,  a.nd  the  beach  is  crossed  by  streams 
flowing  from  the  high  lands  through  the  woods, 
and  washing  away  the  sand  in  all  directions.  The 
mountain  stream,  where  the  flow  of  water  is  alwavs 
abundant,  has  now  become  a  perfect  cascade,  dash- 
ing its  roaring  torrent  down  from  one  level  to 
another,  with  a  very  striking  effect.  How  remark- 
able is  our  present  situation !  How  striking  is  the 
providence  of  God  !  Here  we  have  shelter  and 
security ;  and  here  we  propose  to  remain  until  the 


192 


NEW  TRIALS. 


commencement  of  Api^],  and  only  to  leave  here 
when  the  prospect  of  a  vessel's  arrival  draws  nigh. 
How  mercifully  liad  God  ordered  that  we,  so  weak 
a  party,  and  so  defenceless  and  helpless,  should 
not  be  exposed  to  the  irruption  of  the  natives  upon 
us !  Had  this  asylum  been  rendered  unavaiHng 
by  the  presence  of  the  natives,  none  of  whom  we 
have  seen  since  our  arrival,  what  should  we  have 
done  ?  I  know  that  God  could  even  then  have 
provided  for  us ;  but,  humanly  speaking,  our  posi- 
tion would  have  been  most  dano-erous.  To  have 
put  to  sea  again  would  have  been  to  expose  our- 
selves to  the  tremendous  gales  which  incessantly 
have  prevailed  for  so  long  a  time,  and  which  we 
could  not  possibly  have  weathered  in  our  frail  boat 
of  seven  tons  burden  only.  And  could  we  have  got 
back  to  Picton  Island,  no  prospect  would  have  re- 
mained to  us  but  to  be  hunted  about  from  place  t-o 
place,  like  a  hare  chased  by  the  hounds. 

"  How  evident  that  we  were  not  in  a  position  to 
commence,  with  such  slight  means,  so  arduous  an 
undertaking!  But  all  this  is  well;  the  Mission  has 
been  thereby  begun,  which,  had  we  awaited  for 
more  efficient  means,  it  never  probably  would  have 
been.  We  are  all  agreed  that  nothin?  short  of  a 
brigantine  or  schooner  of  80  or  100  tons  burden 
can  answer  our  ends,  and  to  procure  this  ultimately 
the  Captain  has  fully  determined  to  use  every 
effort.  Our  plan  of  action  now  is  to  "  rough  it " 
through  all  the  circumstances  which  it  shall  please 


NEW  TRIALS.  193 

God  to  permit  to  happen  to  us,  until  tlio  arrival  of 
a  vessel,  and  then  to  take  with  us  some  Fuegians, 
and  go  to  the  Falkland  Islands,  there  to  learn  their 
language,  and  when  we  have  acquired  it,  and  got 
the  necessary  vessel,  to  come  out  again,  and  go 
amono-st  them.  It  is  utterly  impracticable  ever  to 
acquire  the  language  by  any  other  method,  so  far 
as  human  foresiglit  can  judge  of  such  matters ; 
and  to  sojourn  amongst  them  before  the  language  is 
known,  would  be  to  run  in  the  face  of  certain  de- 
struction, and  to  tempt  Providence,  as  much  as  to 
run  under  a  falling  wall  or  to  leap  over  a  precipice, 
and  expect  safety. 

"  When  first  I  cast  my  eyes  upon  the  v,-ork  be- 
fore me,  and  viewed  the  natives  of  Banner  Cove, 
— the  people  to  whom,  by  God's  mercy,  I  and  my 
companions  were  sent  to  show  them  an  open  door 
to  eternal  life, — it  was  with  a  profound  ignorance 
of  the  means  whereby  so  great  a  work  was  to  be 
accomplished.     I  had  no  clue  whatever  in  any  plan 
that  had  been  submitted  to  my  understanding,  and 
as  to  the  steps  to  be  taken  I  was  in  darkness ;  for 
in  this  the  Captain  consulted  not  with  me,  neither 
did    he    propound   his   plans   more    tlian   the  mo- 
mentary intimation  which  preceded  some  new  step, 
which  the  exigency  of  the  moment  had  given  birth 
to.     Therefore,  as  fiir  as  my  judgment  went,  I  saw 
nothino-  practicable  or  feasible  ;   luit  I  committed 
the  direction  of  our  affairs  ta'Him  who,  I  was  sure, 
would  wisely  and  beneficently  order  all  things  by 


N 


194  NEW   TRIALS, 

Ills  providence,  and  who,  I  felt  persuaded,  would 
send  light  for  our  guidance  in  the  very  midst  of 
our  present  thick  darkness.  A  short  acquaintance 
with  the  natives  confirmed  the  unfavorahle  report 
which  such  writers  as  FitzRoy,  King,  and  Darwin, 
had  given  ;  and  in  the  forefront  of  all  their  actions 
it  was  visible  that  when  they  were  the  weaker 
party,  they  were  mild  and  submissive ;  but  the 
instant  they  had  the  prospect  of  taking  us  at  a  dis- 
advantage, or  unawares,  they  became  presuming 
and  full  of  mischief.  Consequently,  from  the  time 
we  fixed  our  abode  in  Banner  Cove  to  the  present, 
I  never  saw  any  one  way  likely  to  lead  us  to 
success. 

"  The  destruction  of  the  Pioneer  in  Earnest 
Cove,  is  another  of  the  acts  of  God's  providence 
toward  us.  How  many  had  been  the  dangers,  or 
at  least  apprehensions,  we  had  experienced  of  our 
being  separated  one  from  another !  Now  in  the 
Speedwell  was  nearly  all  our  store  of  provisions, 
and  a  separation  at  sea  must  have  been  fatal  to 
both  of  us.  The  Pioneer  Avas  also  more  difficult 
of  management  than  the  Speedivell,  not  answering 
readily  to  her  helm,  nor  sailing  so  well.  Both 
boats  were  ill  manned ;  though  under  the  perma- 
nent arrangement  of  our  party,  the  Pioneer  was 
worst  off,  as  there  was  only  one  sailor,  besides  her 
commander,  on  board,  though  with  Mr  Maidment 
and  myself  there  were  four  persons.  Besides,  the 
weight  of  the  iron   decks  mndo    tliem   botli    top- 


NEW  TRIALS.  195 

heavy.  When,  therefore,  the  Pioneer  met  her  un- 
thnely  end,  I  was  forcibly  struck  that  it  would 
prove  to  our  advantage,  in  point  of  safety  and 
satisfaction  ;  though  little  absolute  comfort  could 
be  expected  from  the  stowage  of  seven  persons, 
and  all  our  effects,  where  there  had  hardly  been 
room  for  three.  But  this  was  altogether  a  second- 
ary  consideration,  compared  to  the  danger  of  our 
separation  at  sea,  and  to  the  advantage  of  our 
being  able  to  take  so  much  better  care  of  one  boat, 
with  undivided  numbers.  In  this  sentiment  Captain 
Gardiner  fully  concurs.  And  yet,  should  not  trust 
in  God  have  led  us  to  venture  among  the  Indians  at 
all  hazards  ?  My  conscience  tells  me  in  what  we 
have  done  we  have  acted  with  prudential  consider- 
ation of  actual  circumstances.  The  facts  were  be- 
fore us ;  we  have  been  directed  by  them,  and  to 
have  done  otherwise  would  have  been  presumption 
and  folly.  By  the  grace  of  God  that  has  been 
given  me,  I  can  say  that  in  the  moment  of  peril 
and  when  confronted  by  danger  I  felt  no  fear,  but 
had  a  firm  assurance  that  all  would  be  well,  with 
such  a  peace  and  serenity  of  mind  as  only  God  could 
give.  Yet  have  I  felt  and  do  foci,  that  God  re- 
quires us  to  act  according  to  a  just  judgment  and 
sober  consideration  of  the  actual  circumstances  of  a 
case.  When  a  danger  is  not  vaguely  apprehended, 
but  is  actually  known  to  exist,  we  arc  not  to  run 
into  it,  but  to  avoid  it.  Faith  never  runs  contrary 
to  an  enlightened  judgment  and  just  appreciation 


lUG  NEW  TRIALS. 

of  things  as  they  really  are ;  but  it  is  the  first  to 
yield  and  acknowledge  that  here  there  is  no  way 
open,  whilst  also  the  first  to  inspire  the  confident 
hope  that  God  will  himself  open  a  way,  in  a  man- 
ner different  from  any  we  know  of,  and  in  his  own 
good  and  set  time.  So  do  I  believe,  and  humbly 
do  I  acknowledge  and  thank  God  for  all  his  mani- 
fold mercies  and  precious  dealings  with  us. 

"  Saturday,  Feb.  23.  —  For  the  last  two  days 
the  love  of  God  has  been  shed  abroad  in  my  heart, 
and  he  himself  has  been  nigh,  in  all  my  thoughts, 
and,  what  was  more,  in  all  my  affections.  Praise, 
and  prayer,  and  meditation  on  his  Holy  Word,  w^ere 
more  than  ever  one  constant  act,  and  in  all  thino-s  I 
had  liberty.  The  Lord's  blessing,  too,  was  upon  us 
in  our  meetino-s  together  with  the  men  at  night, 
and  his  Spirit  was  gmciously  poured  out,  pro- 
ducing great  compunction  of  spirit  and  contrition 
of  heart,  with  new  and  eager  desires  for  the  bless- 
ings of  the  gospel  of  grace  in  its  fulness.  On 
Thursday  evening  I  gave  the  men  a  full  view  of 
the  Lord's  gracious  dealings  with  myself,  shewed 
them  how  I  had  laboured  in  ignorance,  and  the 
many  ways  in  which  I  had  grieved  the  Holy 
Sj)irit.  I  also  plainly  declared  the  nature  of  that 
perfection  which  we  are  commanded  to  seek  after, 
and  I  told  them  how  God  had  visited  my  soul  with 
his  love  and  the  baptism  of  his  Spirit.  Earnest 
attention  was  given  me,  and  much  affectionate 
rejoicing  was  manifested  by  those  simple-hearted 


NEW  TRIALS.  197 

friends,  especially  my  dear  brother  Badcock.  A 
child  of  God  indeed  is  he, — an  Israelite  indeed,  in 
whom  there  is  no  guile.  Never  did  I  see  any  one 
who  was  more  truly  a  meek  and  humble  follower 
of  the  Lamb.  He  has  long  been  walking  with 
God  in  righteousness  and  holiness,  and  breathing  a 
filial  childlike  affection  to  God  in  Christ.  Often 
have  I  praised  the  Lord  for  providing  this  example 
of  his  truth  —  this  simple  proof  of  the  effectual 
working  of  his  grace,  where  the  Divine  image  is 
reflected  from  a  groundwork  of  gross  material, 
and  where  the  great  Creator  alone  could  have 
wrought  so  mighty  a  change." 


CHx\.PTEE   IX. 


My  soul,  wait  thou  only  upon  God;  for  my  expectation  is  from 
hirn. 

He  only  is  my  rock  and  my  salvation  :  lie  is  my  defence ;  1  shall 
not  be  moved. 

In  God  is  my  salvation  and  my  glory  :  the  rock  of  ray  strength, 
and  my  refdge,  is  in  God. 

Trust  in  him  at  all  times ;  ye  people,  pour  out  your  heat  before 
him  :  God  is  a  refuse  for  us. — Psalm  Ixii.  5-8. 


I  sat  in  the  orchard,  and  thouglit,  with  sweet  comfort  and  peace,  of 
my  God;  in  solitude — my  company,  my  fi-ieud,  and  ctaaforter.  Oh! 
when  shall  time  give  place  to  eternity]  When  shall  ai^pear  tliat 
new  heaven  and  new  earth,  wherein  dwelleth  righteousness  1  There, 
tbei-e  shall  in  nowise  enter  in  anything  tliat  detileth  ;  none  of  that 
wickedness  that  has  made  men  worse  than  wUd  beasts ;  none  of  those 
corruptions  that  add  still  more  to  the  miseries  of  moi-tality,  shall  be 
seen  or  heard  of  any  more. — The  last  entry  in  the  Journal  of  Henry 
Murtyn. 


The  humidity  of  the  climate  and  continual  hard- 
ships began  to  tell  on  the  health  of  the  party. 
The  first  sufferer  was  Mr  Williams  himself;  and 
the  commencement  of  his  illness  is  thus  recorded : — 

"  Monday,  February  25. — Obliged  to  lie  by  in 
consequence  of  a  severe  chill  caught  on  Friday. 

"  Wednesday,  3Iarch  12. — I  am  just  recovering 
from  a  severe  ihness,  having  been  confined  to  bed 
and  to  the  boat,  witli  the  exception  of  the  last  few 
days,  during  which  I  have  been  able  to  walk  on 
the  beach  at  favorable  opportunities,  since  Mon- 
day the  25th  of  February.  I  caught  a  violent 
cliill  from  putting  on  damp  flannels,  and  having 
been  for  some  time  weakly  and  disordered  through 
want  of  proper  animal  food — having  it  only  twice 
a-weck.  Owino-  to  the  weakening  and  disturbino; 
effect  of  a  farinaceous  diet,  so  long  continued,  when 
the  cold  attacked  me  it  threatened  at  once  to  pros- 
trate all  my  powers,  and  assumed  an  alarming 
aspect.     But  the  hand  of  the  Lord  was  graciously 


202  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

with  me,  and  by  a  clear  perception  of  what  means 
I  ought  to  use  I  was  able  to  treat  myself  very  suc- 
cessfully. There  was  every  threatening  of  rheu- 
matic fever,  and  the  pain  in  my  limbs  was  excru- 
ciating, whilst  considerable  feverishness  set  in  ;  but 
the  medicines  were  all  remarkably  efficacious,  and 
through  these  and  the  kind  nursing  of  Mr  Maid- 
ment,  who  waited  upon  me  with  affectionate  and 
assiduous  attention,  by  the  blessing  of  God  I  am 
now  fast  recovering. 

"Monday,  March  17.  —  Goodness  and  mercy 
follow  me  ;  yea,  abundantly  so,  and  my  heart  re- 
joices in  God  my  Saviour.  Bodily,  I  am  in  a  poor 
weak  state,  having  been  getting  worse  for  some 
days  past,  with  symptoms  of  that  prostrating  dis- 
ease, the  scurvy.  Poor  Badcock,  I  am  also  sorry 
to  say,  has  symptoms  of  the  same  too ;  indeed,  we 
are  all  in  a  very  weak  condition,  Erwin  and  Mr 
Maidment  complaining.  How  are  we  brought  low! 
But  thou,  0  God,  hast  the  ordering  of  all  things. 
Wise  and  good  are  all  thy  ways.  Thou  knowest 
the  end  from  the  beginning,  and  orderest  all  things 
according  to  thy  will.  Thy  will  be  done,  0  God, 
and  blessed  for  ever  be  thy  holy  name. 

"  Wednesday,  March  19.  —  This  morning  at 
seven  o'clock  we  weighed  anchor,  and  quitted 
Earnest  Cove  for  Banner  Cove,  in  order  to  be  in 
readiness  against  a  vessel's  coming,  and  that  we 
might  not  miss  her.  This  is  a  sudden  movement 
of  ours,  as  the  time  contemplated  for  changing  our 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  203 

locality  was  still  distant  some  weeks ;  but  the  Cap- 
tain was  suddenly  impressed  with  the  necessity  of 
our  doing  so,  and  became  anxious  lest  we  should 
miss  our  vessel.  The  change  was  only  proposed 
yesterday,  and  carried  into  execution  to-day.  One 
circumstance  of  a  somewhat  singular  character 
helped  to  hasten  the  present  decision ;  that  was 
the  taking  fire  of  the  '  Hurricane  house,'  as  we 
called  it,  a  place  fitted  up  by  the  Captain  for  his 
sleeping  apartment,  in  lieu  of  the  stranded  and 
dissevered  boat,  from  whence  kindness  and  con- 
sideration towards  me,  on  account  of  my  illness, 
had  driven  him.  The  '  Hurricane  house'  was  com- 
posed of  a  row  of  poles,  inclined  against  a  rocky 
projection,  some  sails  and  canvas  being  used  to 
cover  them,  and  thus  keep  out  the  wind  and  rain. 
To  keep  it  warm,  a  fire  was  maintained  night  and 
day,  and  owing  to  the  fire  having  blazed  up  very 
fiercely  a  few  mornings  back,  the  canvas  caught 
fire,  and  the  flames  extended  to  the  wood  above 
the  rocks,  and  a  considerable  conflagration  ensued. 
"\V'e  consequently  expected  that  the  natives  from 
some  quarter  or  other  would  see  it ;  and  although 
this  proved  not  to  be  the  case,  yet  it  seemed  to 
impress  the  Captain  as  an  intimation  for  us  to 
stir  and  be  going.  The  night  following  the  fire,  a 
stone  from  the  rocks  above  gave  way,  and  fell  just 
where  the  Captain's  head  would  have  been  had  he 
continued  to  sleep  thci-c.  Behold  the  goodness 
and  mercy  of  Cod's  providoutial  care! 


204  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

"  I  am  writing  this  as  I  lie  in  bed;  we  have  but 
light  wind,  almost  a  calm,  which  enables  me  to  do 
so.  Unhappily  I  am  not  getting  better,  and  last 
night  I  was  much  distressed  with  the  feeling  of  my 
excessive  debility,  and  the  pains  in  my  limbs. 
Situated  as  we  are,  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  the 
means  necessary  to  my  recovery,  such  as  animal 
food  and  wine.  How  needful  it  is  that  a  vessel 
should  speedily  arrive !  But  God  will  order  all 
things ;  of  this  I  am  fully  sure,  and  with  joy  and 
assurance  I  can  yield  myself  into  the  Lord's  hand, 
without  "a  care  possessing  my  breast  as  to  when  or 
how  he  will  provide. 

"  Reliance  '  Cove,  Friday,  March  21. — AVo 
arrived  \\q.vq.  safely  by  the  mercy  of  God  yesterday 
morning,  at  about  ten  o'clock.  The  wind  at  the 
time  of  our  setting  out  Avas  blowing  from  the  east- 
ward, and  every  thing  very  joropitious,  tlic  morn- 
ing being  beautifully  fine.  Before  we  got  out  of 
the  harbour  a  calm  ensued,  which  detained  us  the 
best  part  of  the  morning ;  afterwards  it  freshened 
up  from  the  north  and  north-west,  still  blowing 
from  a  quarter  that  happily  favored  us,  and  where- 
by our  passage  was  rendered  comparatively  a  short 
one,^short,  indeed,  compared  with  what  might 
have  been  expected,  when  the  winds  for  weeks  and 
even  months  together  are  from  the  south  and  south- 
west, and  this  with  fearful  gales  and  overwhelming 
tempests. 

"During  the  night  of  )Yednesday,  while  we  were 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  203 

pursuing  our  way  over  the  watery  deep,  the  wind 
repeatedh^  threatened  to  blow  hard,  sudden  gusts 
coming  on  and  betokening  what  hard  things  should 
follow.     The  swell  was  great,  and  the  angry  sea 
rao-ed  around  our  little  boat  and  dashed  its  billows 
over  it,  so  that  the  water  penetrated  both  fore  and 
aft,  and  wetted  our  beds,  especially  those  of  the 
men  in  the  fore  part.     Heavily  laden  as  our  boat 
likewise  was,    crowded  indeed  in  every  part,  she 
-Avas  quite  top-heavy,  and  out  of  trim,  as  it  is  called ; 
that  is,  the  weight  above  did  not  bear  the  just  pro- 
portion to  her  capacity  beneath.     There  was  really 
ground  for  i'ear,  and  the  men  were  more  than  once 
alarmed  lest  she  should  capsize.     I  lay  conscious 
and  satisfied  that  I  and  all  of  us  were  in  the  hand 
of  the  Lord,  and  assured  that,  holding  the  winds  in 
the  hollow  of  his  fist,  he  could  restrain  his  rough 
wind,  and  say  unto  the  sea  and  its  boiling  waves, 
'  Peace,  be  still.'     I  did  not,  however,  rest  on  this 
conviction,  but  frequently  during  the  night  lifted 
up  ni}^  soul  to  God  in  prayer,  and  I  did  observe  a 
coincidence  between  the  asking  of  God  and  the  sub- 
sidence of  the  wind,  yea,  more  than  once  that  night. 
Great  w%as  the  peace  I  knew,  and  Avonderful  was  the 
loving-kindness  of  the  Lord,  supporting,  yea,  bless- 
ing me,  with  joy  in  his  Holy  tr^pirit,  in  the  midst 
of  much  bodily  Avcakness. 

"  Reliance  Cove,  where  we  now  are,  derives  its 
claim  to  that  title  from  some  outlvinir  I'oeks  break- 

fc'  a 

ing  the  great  swell  of  the  ocean,  except  Avhen  t!:e 


206  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

Avind  blows  from  the  south  south-west,  to  east  south- 
east. 

"  To-daj,  although  I  have  not  ventured  at  all 
out  of  bed,  even  to  sit  up,  yet,  through  the  good- 
ness of  God,  I  feel  better  than  yesterday,  during 
the  Avhole  of  which  I  was  very  ill.  My  disease  is 
gaining  ground,  though  I  hope  but  slowly.  The 
Cnptain  and  Mr  Maidment  are  at  present  gone 
ashore,  to  explore  the  coast  in  the  direction  of 
Banner  Cove  or  westward,  to  find,  if  possible,  a 
better  and  safer  anchorage.  They  have  been  gone 
since  the  morning,  and  a  terrible  walk  they  will 
have ;  for  the  Captain  is  iron-hearted  as  to  diffi- 
culties, and  almost  incapable  of  fatigue, — at  least 
he  will  not  yield  to  anything  less  than  impossi- 
bilities. Poor  Mr  Maidment  is  by  no  means  in  a 
state  for  such  a  trial  of  strength,  being  in  fact  very 
■weak  and  unwell.  May  God  preserve  them  and 
bless  them  both  !  In  their  absence  I  have  got  poor 
John  Badcock,  my  fellow-sufferer,  to  come  and 
take  up  his  abode  with  me  for  the  day,  and  we 
have  both  been  greatly  refreshed,  whilst  we  have 
communed  together  in  the  Lord.  How  sweet  is 
Christian  fellowship  and  sympathy,  when  springing 
from  Christian  love ! 

"  Since  writing  -the  above,  I  have  had  the  men 
together  and  joined  with  them  in  a  hymn  and 
prayer.  0,  how  greatly  did  I  feel  the  melody  of 
song  in  my  heart!  It  was  like  a  little  heaven 
below.     O  that  such  feasts  of  sacred  love  and  com- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  207 

munion  with  God  were  mine  day  by  day  !  but 
they  are  as  stolen  waters. — It  is  getting  late  in  the 
evening,  and  the  Captain  and  Mr  Maiduient  are 
not  returned.  Thrice  have  I  lifted  up  my  soul 
to  God,  beseeching  that  no  evil  may  come  upon 
them. 

"  — Thank  God,  they  are  returned  in  safety, 
coming  back  a  little  after  nine  o'clock,  having  gone, 
by  the  Captain's  admission,  more  than  sixteen 
miles  there  and  back,  and  through  a  rough  and 
mountainous  country.  I  hear  the  Captain  give 
expression  to  weariness  and  fatigue,  and,  to  my 
great  surprise,  Mr  Maidment  seems  really  loss 
affected  than  the  Captain  ;  thus  assuredly  the  Lord 
strengthened  him,  for  when  he  set  out  he  was  a 
poor,  tottering,  and  disabled  person. 

"  Saturday,  March  22. — I  was  exceedingly 
ill  last  night, — the  sense  of  exhaustion  being  as 
though  the  life-blood  were  leaving  my  heart.  This 
arose  pllrtly  from  my  being  too  free  yesterday  in 
talking,  singing,  and  praying  ;  but  so  great  was 
my  happiness  that  T  availed  myself  of  the  joyous 
moments  as  they  passed.  But  another  reason  is 
the  want  of  sufficient  support.  I  never  slept  a  mo- 
ment the  whole  night,  and  towards  the  morning 
cold  shivers  came  on. 

"  This  morning  we  left  Reliance  Harbour  for 
some  new  abode.  Whither  we  were  bound  circum- 
stances would  decide.  The  name  of  IJclianco  Cove 
was  properly   given,  for  our  reliance   was  not    in 


lOS  SlCH-NiiSS  AN1>  i-' AMINE. 

the  protection  it  was  capable  of  affording,  but  upon 
God  who  made  it  a  place  of  shelter  during  a  short 
lialt  by  the  way.  Botli  nights  Ave  remained  there 
the  wind  rose  and  threatened  to  blow  hard,  which 
had  it  done,  we  certainly  should  have  had  our 
boat  dashed  in  pieces  against  the  steep  shingle 
beach.  A  few  hours  only  after  we  left,  a  strong 
breeze  from  the  southward  sprang  up,  Avhich  would 
have  blown  right  into  the  cove,  and  the  swell  of 
the  ocean  here  is  quite  terrible.  It  is  remark- 
able also,  that  the  day  of  our  leaving  Earnest  Cove, 
in  Spaniard  Harbour,  the  wind  blew  strong  in  from 
the  eastward,  and  consequently,  right  into  the 
cove, — the  only  time  of  its  blowing  strong  from 
that  quarter  since  our  arrival  there.  It  might 
have  damaged  our  remaining  boat,  and  most  cer- 
tainly, as  it  was  full  moon,  and  consequently  spring 
tide,  we  should  have  been  dislod<>-cd  both  from  the 
cavern  and  our  stranded  boat.  Thus  how  clearly 
has  God  manifested  his  providential  care  over  us. 
0  how  good  is  the  Lord,  and  how  greatly*  to  be 
praised !     Blessed  be  his  name  for  ever  ! 

Our  passage  from  lieliance  Cove  to-day  has 
been  very  trying.  The  weather  has  been  boiste- 
rous, strong  squalls,  '  williwaws,'  wdth  hail  and 
snow ;  the  sea  consequently  has  been  very  rough, 
and  our  cockle-shell  of  a  boat,  with  its  dispropor- 
tioned  deck-load,  has  not  been  free  from  danger  of 
a  sudden  capsize.  However,  here  we  are,  nearly 
at  the  entrance  of  Biinner   Cove  once  more,  the 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  209 

only  place  where  we  poor   strolling  outcasts  can 
find  a  secure  anchorage  ground.     It  is  now  nearly 
nine  o'clock,  and  a  dark  and  cheerless  night.    Thank 
God,  we  have  escaped  all  the  dangers  of  the  day, 
and  doubtless,  God  willing,  shall  escape  the  perils 
of  the  night.      I  have  been  very  weak  and  poorly 
all  the  day,  and  whilst  cooped  up  in  bed,  swinging 
under  the  iron  canopy  of  our  cribbed  and  scanty 
cabin,  and  hearing  the  waters  dash  over,  yes,  and 
sometimes  tasting   a  little  of  them,   even  inside; 
whilst  thus   situated,  roUing   and   rocking   about, 
trying  to  escape  from  the  gathering  tempest,  and 
hastening  our  way  to  a  refuge,  yet  knowing  not 
whither  we  should  go,  nor  where  our  resting-place 
would  be,  my  position  was  not  calculated  to  fasci- 
nate the  eye.     Very  weak  have  I  felt  myself,  and 
Satan  has  urged  his  fierce  assaults  upon  me.    I  had 
not  strength  to  read,  nor  indeed  to  pray.     Joy  I 
could  not  summon  to  my  heart,  and  I  felt  greatly 
wanting  in  love  and  in  thankfulness  and    praise. 
But  what  could  I  do  ?     I  strove  to  pray  ;  yea,  I 
told  the  Lord  I  loved  him  with  all  my  heart,  and 
I  blessed  his  holy  name  :  yet  words  came  not  to 
my  thoughts,  and  thoughts  came  not  to  my  desires. 
I  called,  and  all  was  silent :  no  voice  responded.     I 
did  not  discern  the   meaning  of  this  at  the  time. 
I  did  not  see  that   God  had  left  me  to  a  naked 
faith,  and  that  it  was  to  pass  through  a  fiery  ordeal 
in  contending  with  all  my  trials  and  temptations. 
I   saw  danger  on  every  side,  but  I  feared  it  not. 

o 


210  SICK^EfcS  AISU  FAMINE. 

Temptation  pointed  to  death  from  the  floods  even 
as  I  was,  cabined  up  in  this  small  smoking  place ; 
then  to  death  as  likely  to  be  the  issue  of  my  pre- 
sent disease,  sea-scurvy,  and  no  adequate  means,  no 
remedy  at  hand ;  and  then  to  death  as  inflicted  by 
the  jagged  war-spear  of  the  Fuegian,  or  his  deadly 
sling.  But  faith  was  more  than  conqueror,  through 
Him  that  loved  me  and  gave  himself  for  me.  It 
could  and  did  answer,  that  if  God  willed  either  to 
take  place,  I  desired  nothing  but  his  will,  and  in 
that  case  any  death  would  be  a  welcome  summons 
to  a  glorious  immortality. 

"  After  much  conflict  of  this  kind,  I  took  up  my 
Bible  to  try  to  read  it ;  but  I  felt  as  though  it 
would  be  impossible  to  summon  up  application  suffi- 
.  cient  for  this  delightful  task,  and  I  turned  listlessly 
over  the  page,  till  my  attention  was  powerfully 
arrested  by  these  words  of  St  Peter,  '  But  the  God 
of  all  grace,  who  hath  called  us  unto  his  eternal 
glory  by  Christ  Jesus,  after  that  ye  liave  suff'ered 
a  while,  make  you  perfect,  stablish,  strengthen, 
settle  you.'  I  at  once  saw  the  Lord,  and  heard 
the  voice  of  my  God,  and  great  was  the  consolation 
imparted  to  me  thus  by  Christ  Jesus.  '  Bless  the 
Lord,  O  my  soul,  and  all  that  is  within  me,  bless 
his  holy  name.'  Now  can  I,  and  now  do  I,  with  all 
sweetness  and  assurance  of  hope,  with  peace  and  joy, 
leave  myself  in  the  hand  of  the  Lord  that  he  may  do 
with  me  whatsoever  seemeth  him  good,  content  in 
knov*"ing  that  whatever  be  the  way  he  takes  with 


.SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  211 

me,  I  shall  see  his  gTcat,  yea  his  wonderful  salva- 
tion, and  give  glory  to  his  excellent  name  for  ever. 

"  Monday,  March  24. — At  Banner  Cove  again ; 
and  with  the  mercy  and  goodness  of  God  very 
manifest  both  in  bringing  us  here  at  this  time,  and 
in  the  providential  arrangement  of  circumstances 
favorable  to  our  safely  and  peaceably  remaining 
here.  May  I  never  forget  thy  benefits,  0  my  God, 
but  give  thee  endless  praise  ! 

"  It  "was  nearly  three  o'clock  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, that  we  cast  anchor  once  more  off  our  old  and 
much   to   be   remembered    Station    Hill,    near   to 
which  we  had  built  our  Avigwam,  and  dug  a  gar- 
den,  and   where  our  supplies  of  water  were  got 
from ;  and  glad  were  all  hands  to  find  a  place  of 
rest  after  their  fatiguing  and  harassing  day's  work. 
On  glancing  their  eyes  in  the  direction  of  our  old 
quarters,  the  men  discovered  a  light  from  a  fire, 
kindled,  they  thought,  in  our  wigwam.     We  there- 
fore concluded  that  it  had  been  taken  possession  of, 
and   was  now  inhabited  by   the  natives.     In   the 
morning,  however,  it  Avas  discovered   that  a  new 
wio-wam  had  been  built  durino-  our  absence,  near 
our  OAvn,  and  ocular  demonstration  was  soon  afford- 
ed, as  also  by  the  well   known    vociferations  ad- 
dressed to  the  ears,  that  a  large  party  of  natives 
was  established  here.     We  now  of  course  expected 
to  behold  the  face  of  Jemniv,  and  his  redoubtable 
associates,  our  late  mortal  foes,  and  that  we  should 
have  a  repetition  of  the  trials  which  we  had  for- 


212  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

luerly  encountered  liere.  We  were  therefore 
agreeably  surprised,  when  they  came  off  to  us, 
to  find  that  they  were  all  entire  strangers.  The 
party  numbered  fourteen  or  fifteen,  five  men  and 
five  women,  the  rest  children.  They  appeared 
rather  a  more  squalid  lot  than  our  former  com- 
panions, and  not  possessed  of  the  same  energy  of 
character.  Should  their  number  not  be  increased 
by  the  addition  of  others,  or  of  our  old  acquaint- 
ances, we  shall  be  able  to  stay  here  in  comfort  and 
in  peace.  All  things  are  in  God's  hand,  and  he 
will  temper  the  wind  to  his  shorn  lambs.  I  doubt 
it  not.  His  mercy  is  over  all  his  works,  and  he 
loves  us  with  a  Father's  tender  love  and  gentle 
compassion.  He  will  do  all  things  well  for  us  ;  of 
this  I  am  deeply  assured. 

"  Yesterday  (Sunday)  the  day  was  very  stormy, 
the  equinoctial  gales  blowing  most  furiously,  and 
from  the  southward,  so  that  had  we  been  at 
Reliance  Harbour  we  must  have  perished,  or  had 
we  been  at  sea  our  danger  would  have  been  great. 
Snow  fell  with  rain,  and  the  temj)erature  was  very 
low.  Being  in  bed,  I  did  not  feel  it,  as  happily 
our  quarters  are  warm  enough  when  closed  up.  I 
now  am  wholly  confined  to  my  bed,  not  daring  to 
venture  up,  fearing  that  the  exertion  of  rising 
would  prosti'ate  me  too  much.  The  Lord  does 
make  all  my  bed  in  my  sickness ;  the  angel  of  his 
presence  overshadowing  my  soul,  and  hanging 
about  me  with  such  irradiations  of  glorious  light, 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  21 


o 


— the  light  of  God's  love,— that  I  am  happy,  very 
happy,  and  not  a  moment  sits  wearily  upon  me. 
Sweet  is  the  presence  of  Jesus,  and  oh!  I  am 
happy  in  his  love. 

"  After  the  trials  I  encountered  on  Saturday, 
and  our  knocking  about  was  over,  the  sleep  that 
followed  was,  I  think,  the  most  refreshing  that  I 
ever  enjoyed  ;  not  so  much  because  it  was  a  balmy 
restorative    to    my    poor    debilitated    body,    but 
because  if  ever  the  whisperings  of  Almighty  love 
spoke  tranquillity  to  the  soul  of  man,  and  breathed 
a   continued  flow    of  divine    consolation  upon  his 
heart,  I  felt  them  that  night.     I  was,  so  to  speak, 
talking  with  the  Lord,  and  his  grace  supplied  mo 
with  such  rich  treasure  of  wisdom  in  the  discourse, 
and    his    unction    so    made    the    purport    of   my 
thoughts   to  diffuse  a  precious  odor  and   a  rich 
influence  around  me,  that  I  could  very  well  have 
thought  I  was  in  Paradise.     I  might  have  thought 
so,  but  that  the  subject-matter  of  my  communings 
with  the  Lord,  was  the  services,  the  joyful,  heart- 
felt services,  I  should  render  unto  him  in  this  my 
lifetime,  and  period  of  sojourn  here  on  earth.     My 
heart  seemed  to  tell  the  Lord  how  willingly,  how 
gladly,  my  poor  all  should  be  given  unto  him,  to 
spend  and  be  spent  for  him  alone ;    and   how    I 
should  triumph  with  heavenly  delight,  whilst  glory- 
ing ,that,  by  the  power  of  his  grace,  I  was  able  to 
win   souls  to   Christ.     And  whilst  such  were  my 
tlioughts,  the  Lord  seemed  to  accept  me  in  all  my 


214  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

proffered  service,  and  to  pour  upon  me  the  bless- 
ings of  his  grace,  so  that  he  was  unto  mo  as  the 
dew  unto  IsraeL  Communion,  heaven]}^  and 
blessed!  Earnest  of  joys  to  come,  and  foretaste  of 
that  inheritance  undefiled  and  that  fadeth  not 
away,  where  I  shall  see  him  face  to  face,  yea, 
behold  him  as  he  is,  not  even  the  transparent  veil 
of  a  divine  faith  being  betwixt  him  and  me !  And 
how  transcendently  glorious  is  the  further  assur- 
ance, that  when  we  do  see  him  as  he  is,  we  shall  be 
like  him,  j^artakers  of  his  divine  nature,  and 
sharers  of  his  glorious  image.  O  God,  my  Lord, 
for  ever  be  thy  name  adored. 

"  To-day  we  hope  to  recover  the  provisions 
Avhich  we  stowed  away  when  we  were  here  before. 
Amongst  these  is  a  barrel  of  pork,  purchased  of  the 
Ocean  Queen;  this  will  be  of  great  service  to  our 
party,  and  will,  1  trust,  with  God's  blessing, 
strengthen  them  greatly.  Our  preserved  meat  is 
now  nearly  out,  our  store  of  spirits  nearly 
exhausted,  and  when  these  are  ended,  as  in  a  week 
or  two  they  will  be,  then  with  the  prophet  Habak- 
kuk  I  will  exclaim,  as  I  know  by  grace  I  shall  be 
able  to  do,  '  Although  the  fig-tree  shall  not 
blossom,  neither  shall  fruit  be-  in  the  vines ;  the 
labor  of  the  olive  shall  fail,  and  the  fields  shall 
yield  no  meat ;  the  flock  shall  be  cut  off  from  the 
fold,  and  there  shall  be  no  herd  in  the  stalls :  yet  I 
will  rejoice  in  the  Lord,  I  will  joy  in  the  God  of 
my  salvation.' 


sicaNi^ss  axd  famine.  21o 

''  I  have  been  greatly  gratified  and  aifected  by 
pleasing  evidence  that  the  work  of  grace  is 
deepened  in  my  brethren's  minds.  This,  not  in 
one,  but  I  think  in  all.  The  trials  and  dangers  we 
have  been  subject  to,  have,  by  the  sanctifying 
grace  of  God,  had  a  gracious  influence.  Yesterday 
and  Saturday  I  was  quite  affected  by  the  kindness 
of  the  Captain,  and  his  humble  and  gentle  deport- 
ment ;  his  prayer,  too,  yesterday,  was  an  outpour- 
ing of  his  soul  before  God,  in  so  unaffected  and 
sincere  a  manner,  with  such  unqualified  expressions 
of  resignation  to  the  will,  and  humble  trust  in  the 
mercy,  of  God,  that  it  did  make  me  own  with  joy, 
that  here  is  a  child  of  God  addressing  the  Father 
of  all  mercies.  This  morning,  too,  the  prayer  of 
Mr  Maidment  was  in  like  manner  a  sincere  breath- 
ing out  of  the  soul  in  humble  supplication  and  con- 
fident trust  in  God.  Oh !  I  am  glad  and  rejoice 
in  the  Lord  to  see  mv  brethren  thus  meek  and 
trustful. 

"  Banner  Cove,  Wednesday,  March  26. — Yester- 
day the  party  of  natives  left  the  harbour,  with 
what  intent  we  of  course  are  ignorant.  In  order 
to  be  in  as  great  a  state  of  preparedness  as 
possible,  and  to  omit  no  way  of  affording  intelli- 
gence to  the  vessel  that  should  come  to  our  relief, 
provided  we  were  forced  to  leave  this  part  again, 
the  place  appointed  for  her  coming  to,  the  Captain 
has  enclosed  notices  in  bottles,  and  sunk  them  in 
vai^ions  places,    with   boards   erected   above  them, 


216  SICKNESS  AXD  FAMINE,  "^ 

and    letters   painted  thereon,   '  Look  underneath.' 
A  copy  of  these  notices  is  as  follows : — 

"  '  The  natives  are  hostile.  We  are  obliged  to 
move  from  place  to  place.  If  not  in  Banner  Cove, 
we  shall  be  near  Cape  Rees  or  Cape  James,  on  the 
N.E.  side  of  Navarin  Island  ;  if  not  there,  in 
Spaniard  Harbour,  which  is  on  the  main  island, 
not  far  from  Cape  Kinnaird.  We  have  sickness  on 
board,  om*  supplies  are  nearly  out,  and  if  not  soon 
relieved  we  shall  be  starved.  We  do  not  intend 
to  go  to  Staten  Island,  but,  if  unable  to  remain  at 
the  two  places  indicated  above,  to  run  for  Spaniard 
Harbour,  and  stay  there  in  a  cove,  on  the  western 
side,  until  some  vessel  comes  to  our  assistance. 

(Signed)  Allen  F.  Gardiner, 

Superintendent  of  the  Mission. 

Banner  Cove, 
March  26,  1851,  WednesrJai/' 

"  We  yesterday  got  back  our  provisions  which 
had  been  deposited  at  Tent  Cove,  consisting  of 
three  barrels  of  biscuits,  and  the  barrel  of  pork. 
How  thankful  ought  we  to  be  that  they  had  never 
been  discovered  by  the  natives !  The  goats  on 
Garden  Island  they  have  disappointed  us  of,  having 
destroyed  them  all. 

"  Yesterday  the  sun  being  out  for  a  little  while,  I 
got  outside  my  prison-house,  and  how  greatly  did 
I  feel  the  invigorating  effect  of  the  sight  of  this 
interesting  spot,  the  scenery  quite  beautiful !     To- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  217 

day,  the  weather  being  cold,  I  could  not  venture 
out  of  bed. 

"  Banner  Cove,  March  27. — To-day  a  fresh 
party  of  natives  have  made  their  appearance,  to 
our  discomfort.  It  was  blowing  very  hard  at  the 
time  tliey  came  in,  which  we  could  ovAy  account 
for  on  the  supposition  that  they  had  received  in- 
telligence of  our  arrival  from  the  party  which  left 
on  Tuesday,  as  in  general  they  are  so  cautious 
and  indisposed  to  move  about  in  rough  weather. 
Amongst  them  were  some  of  our  old  acquaint- 
ance, and  doubtless  they  are  but  the  harbingers 
of  the  whole  of  our  evil-disposed  former  associ- 
ates. They  have  been  very  boisterous  and  pre- 
suming, and  have  displayed  the  same  daring  as 
before.  Whilst  all  our  party  were  on  deck,  except- 
ing Badcock  and  myself,  they  cut  the  rope  attached 
to  our  raft,  and  but  for  the  alertness  of  our  men, 
would  have  had  it  adrift.  We  expect  that  to-mor- 
row others  will  arrive,  and  we  all  fear  that  it  is 
impracticable  for  us  to  stay  here.  Should  the 
weather  therefore  permit,  the  Captain  proposes  to 
start  the  first  thing  in  the  morning  for  Spaniard 
Harbour  again,  the  only  place  where  there  is  rest 
for  the  soles  of  our  feet.  And  there  we  shall 
remain,  as  far  as  we  can  tel!,  till  a  vessel  comes  to 
our  relief.  In  the  meantime,  not  a  being  on  the 
eartli  will  have  any  knowledge  of  the  place  where 
we  arc;  but  God  knows,  and  how  much  better  to 
be  known,  and  to  know  we  are  seen,  of  God,  than 


218  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  ^ 

to  have  the  eyes  of  the  whole  world  resting  upon 
us!  I  have  been  more  than  once  struck  with  the 
thought  that  our  present  separation  from  the 
haunts  and  abodes  of  all  we  have  ever  known,  is  a 
striking  illustration  of  that  separation  which  death 
makes.  We  are,  as  it  were,  dead  to  our  dear 
friends,  yet  we  are  living.  We  have  tlie  active 
faculties  of  the  soul  still  at  work,  incessantly  bring- 
ing our  dear  ones  to  our  remembrance :  but  we 
are  no  longer  living  amongst  them,  identified  in 
all  our  interests  with  them.  But  we  are  living  in 
God  and  to  God.  He  is  our  being  and  end,  and 
with  him  alone  we  are  identified  now  through  the 
exceeding  riches  of  the  grace  abounding  unto  us  in 
Christ  Jesus.  Yet  we  are  associated  in  love  with 
all  our  earthly  friends  more  sweetly,  more  firmly, 
more  endearingly  than  ever.  May  God  bless  them 
all,  is  my  fervent  prayer. 

"  Friday,  March  28. — Left  Banner  Cove  this 
morning  at  half-past  four  o'clock.  The  natives  as 
usual  had  retired  to  their  wigwam  soon  after  sun- 
set; but  they  were  up  and  stirring  as  early  as  one 
o'clock.  Of  course  we  had  kept  a  watch.  From 
one  o'clock  until  the  hour  of  our  departure  they 
were  very  busily  employed.  Their  early  rising 
confirmed  our  suspicion  that  they  expected  to  be 
joined  by  others,  and  their  incessant  hammering  on 
the  trunks  of  trees,  appeared  to  be  a  sort  of  signal 
as  to  their  whereabouts.  We  never  knew  the 
natives  to   be  moving  about  until   tlireo   or    four, 


SICKNKSS  AND  FAMINE.  211) 

even  in  summer  when  it  was  quite  light ;  but,  set- 
ting aside  these  signs  of  concerted  vigilance  on 
their  part,  we  were  morally  certain  that  there 
would  be  a  large  muster  of  them  in  the  course  of 
the  day. 

"  Sjianiard  Harbour,  March  29,  Saturday 
afternoon. — We  are  now  just  sighting  Earnest 
Cove,  after  being  becalmed  in  the  entrance  of  the 
Harbour  the  most  part  of  the  day.  We  had  what 
the  sailors  call  a  fine  start  of  wind,  blowing  from 
the  northward  and  westward,  and  which  brought 
us  into  the  troubled  water  of  Slogget  Bay  soon 
after  nightfall,  and  which  freshening  up  and  blow- 
ing in  sudden  and  violent  blasts,  we  were  again  in 
danger  of  capsizing.  As  I  lay  in  bed,  I  heard  the 
Captain  say,  'It  is  a  wonder  we  were  not  cap- 
sized.' At  first,  it  was  proposed  to  lie-to  for  the 
night  in  the  bay,  and  not  to  encounter  the  tide 
races  which  we  should  meet  in  rounding  the  cape. 
However,  we  pursued  our.  way  without  stoppage, 
groping  along  in  the  dark,  and  tumbling  over  the 
billows. 

"  Earnest  Cove,  Tuesday,  A^jril  1. — The  morn- 
ing being  fine,  and  the  sun  shining  quite  warm,  I 
ventured  to  rise,  and  got  out  into  the  stern-sheets ; 
but  I  soon  became  so  sensible  of  my  weakness,  my 
limbs  almost  failing  me,  and  faintness  and  pains 
coming  on,  that  I  hastened  back  to  my  peaceful 
bed,  where  alone  I  can  obtain  any  mitigation  to 
the  distresses  of  ray  body.     Sometimes  I  almost 


220  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

forget  that  anything  is  the  matter  with  me,  and 
would  almost  persuade  myself  that  if  I  were  u-p  I 
should  still  feel  the  same ;  but,  alas !  the  trial  soou 
shews  how  slight  is  the  ground  of  my  expectation. 
But  as  I,  day  by  day,  and  night  by  night,  lie  hero, 
what  a  world,  unknown  to  the  Avorld,  do  I  live  in ! 
God  is  indeed  about  my  bed,  and  spies  out  all  my 
ways,  and  his  countenance  is  over  me  for  good. 
How  blessed  is  the  thought !  The  Lord  is  teaching 
me,  and  counselling  my  heart  with  his  hidden 
•wisdom,  and  making  known  his  secret  unto  mo ; 
yea,  he  is  revealing  unto  my  soul  the  deep  things 
of  God,  and  giving  me  spiritual  understanding  in 
the  knowledge  of  that  which  hath  been  hidden 
from  the  foundation  of  the  world.  The  glory  and 
everlasting  praise  be  to  my  God,  through  Jesus 
Christ  my  Lord. 

"  Wednesday  Evening,  eight  o'clock,  Aj'^ril  9. — • 
To-day  we  have  liad  most  boisterous  weather,  tlie 
sea  and  the  waves  roaring.  Happily  we  are  well 
sheltered,  so  as  not  to  be  exposed  to  any  danger, 
at  least  we  trust  not ;  yet  the  surf  on  the  shore  is 
prodigious  in  volume,  and  the  straining  jerk  on  our 
hawser  is  somewhat  alarming  at  times.  We  are, 
however,  in  God's  hands.  The  cold  has  been  very 
severe  to-day,  and  this,  together  with  the  raging 
of  the  tempest,  the  gloom  of  a  sunless  day,  and  the 
heavy  fall  of  hail  and  rain,  has  rendered  our  posi- 
tion somewhat  cheerless.  Badcock  and  I  are  com- 
panions in  affliction.     We  get  no  better,  but  worse 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  221 

— the  disease  slowly  progressing.  However,  poor 
John  has  not  vet  suffered  anvthino-  like  the  same 
amount  of  prostration  as  myself.  The  exhaustion 
occasioned  by  my  previous  illness  accounts  for  the 
difference.  Friday,  Saturday,  and  Sunday  last 
were  rather  distressing  da^^s.  The  oppression  from 
my  bodily  disorder  was  very  great,  and  so  incapa- 
ble of  all  exertion  did  I  feel,  that  I  could  not  apply 
my  mind  to  reading.  On  Sunday  night  I  made  it 
an  especial  matter  of  prayer,  that  God  would  so 
strengthen  my  mind  that  I  might  be  able  to  exer- 
cise it  in  reading ;  and  my  prayer  was  answered, 
for  with  great  delight  I  spent  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  next  day  on  Bonar's  Commentary  on  Leviticus, 
and  the  Bible  in  conjunction  therewith. 

"  Our  boat  is  in  some  respects  unsuitable.  If 
we  draw  up  the  door  at  the  entrance  to  our 
berth,  we  then  exclude  all  air,  as  there  is  no  other 
opening,  not  even  for  ventilation.  But  on  the 
other  hand,  if  we  have  it  open,  then  the  wind  and 
the  cold  night  air  come  in,  and  render  clothing 
almost  ineffectual  for  keeping  us  warm.  So  I  felt 
it  last  night,  and  upon  previous  occasions, — a  cold, 
chilly  sensation  pervading  my  back.  If  to  obviate 
this,  we  close  tiie  door  altogether,  the  vapor  from 
our  breaths  accumulates  on  the  iron  roof  of  our 
deck,  only  a  few  inches  higher  than  our  pillows, 
and  drops  over  us  and  trickles  down  on  our  beds 
in  such  quantities  that  we  find  it  very  troublesome. 
Add  to  this  the  muddled  state  of  our  apartments, 


222  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

from  our  not  being  able  to  dispose  things  comfort- 
ably about  us,  not  having  now  for  several  days 
been  able  so  much  as  to  get  out  of  bed  to  have  it 
made.  Add  also  that  our  appetites  rather  fail  in 
attacking  the  boiled  pork,  which  at  first  was  a 
great  treat,  and  that  the  preserved  meat  is  fast 
hastening  to  an  end,  as  is  also  our  supply  of 
spirits.*  Add  to  this  that  our  kind  and  attentive 
nurse,  Bryant,  a  most  aifectionate  and  sympathis- 
ing attendant,  is  himself  shewing  symptoms  of  the 
disease.  Add  to  this  the  uncertainty  as  to  when  a 
vessel  may  come  to  our  relief,  and  the  possibility 
that  she  may  not  see  and  observe  our  notices  put 
up  on  various  parts  of  Banner  Cove,  and  so  not 
come  at  all ;  and  you  may  ask  if  we  have  not  some 
ground  of  apprehension  concerning  our  supplies 
and  well-being.  I  can  deliberately  answer,  that 
my  mind  is  free  from  such  apprehension;  and 
although  I  have  felt  so  weak  that  I  could  take 
comfort  in  scarcely  anything,  nor  could  even  coorco 
my  mind  into  an  active  contemplation  of  God's 
goodness  so  as  to  give  and  feel  praise  to  Him,  yet 
I  do  know  and  am  confident  *  the  Lord  will  provide,' 
and  that  we  shall  want  no  good  thing,  nor  suffer 
more  than  ^y&  can  bear,  neither  shall  evil  betide  us. 
The  Lord  is  with  us,  and  will  not  fail  us  in  our 
need ;  but  our  extremity  will  be  his  opportunity. 

"  Earnest  Cove,  Saturday,  April  12. — Last 
night  we  had  the  most  fearful  storm  we  have 
encountered  at  all.     It  commenced  about  nine  or 


SICKNESS  AMJ  FAMINE.  223 

ten  o'clock,  and  continued  to  rage  throughout  the 
night.     Before  witnessing  it,  we  had  no  just  con- 
ception of  what  a  south-west  gale  in  these  latitudes 
is.     It  reminded  me    of  the  blast  from  the  iron 
mouth  of   the  bellows  at  a  smelting  furnace ;    or 
Avhat  might  be  supposed  would  be  the  rush  and 
violence   of   a   furious    storm    driving   through    a 
tunnel.      During  the  whole  period  the  roar   and 
wail  of  the  tempest  around  us  and  in  the  distance 
were  appalhng.     The  bands  of  violence  seemed  let 
loose,  and  we  could  not  but  feel  that  the  time  was 
one  of  peril  and  alarm.     Sheltered  as  we  were,  by 
being  all  but  land-locked,  we  found  that  we  were 
not  out  of  reach  of  its  direct  assault,  when  gather- 
ing its  forces  from  every  quarter,  its  tremendous 
gusts  -were  every  now  and  then  aimed  straight  at 
our  devoted  heads.     The  rush,  and  fury,  and  force 
of  its  beating  point-blank  upon  us  were  tremendous. 
Our  poor  boat   trembled  and  quivered,   and    the 
hawser   whereby  it  was  made  fast  to    the    shore 
became  as  'taught'  as  it  could  be;  but  still  time 
after  time  it  lifted  its  head  up   uninjured.     The 
night  was  dark,  and  very  wet,  and  much  hail  fell. 
We  ascertained  that  the  Captain,   Mr  Maidment, 
and  Pearce,  who  slept  ashore,  were  up,  and  Avith- 
drawn  to  the  cavern,  and  we  rightly  conjectured 
that  they  were  in  great  and  painful  anxiety  on  our 
account.     They  and  the  men  on  board  were  greatly 
afraid  that  the  hawser,  which  was  but  a  small  one, 
would  give  wav,  ;uv1  in  that  case  our  anchoi-  might 


224  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

drag,  and  so  we  should  be  driven  out  to  sea  or 
dashed  upon  the  rocks.  Not  one  of  our  party 
slept  the  whole  night,  but  with  anxious  expectation 
looked  out  for  the  coining  day.  When  the  morn- 
ing came,  one  proof  was  afforded  us  of  the  fury  of 
the  gale.  A  pair  of  trowsers  and  a  woollen  jersey 
had  been  made  fast  to  the  mast  to  dry,  tied  with  a 
rope  ;  the  legs  of  one,  and  the  body  of  the  other, 
were  torn  right  off,  leaving  the  waist  of  the  former 
and  the  arms  of  the  other  remaining. 

"  Cook's  River,  Monday,  April  14. — In  conse- 
quence of  our  late  severe  weather,  and  the  dangers 
to  which  we  were  exposed,  the  Captain  thought  it 
advisable  to  take  the  first  opportunity  for  removing 
to  Cook's  River,  where  storms  can  in  no  way 
endanger  us.  We  are  accordingly  come  here  this 
afternoon.  The  opening  is  narrow  indeed,  and  it 
is  defended  from  the  sea  by  a  shifting  bar,  over 
which  the  sea  roars  with  a  vain  effort  to  disquiet 
the  peaceful  waters  inside.  This  river,  or  rivulet 
rather,  expands  into  a  small  lake,  which  trends  along 
the  head  of  the  bay,  and  then  winds  about  in  many 
serpentine  foldings,  until  it  loses  itself  in  a  small 
stream.  To  the  bar  at  the  entrance,  and  to  one  a 
little  further  to  the  seaward,  the  ducks,  gulls, 
divers,  and  shags,  often  resort  in  large  numbers. 
The  evening  being  fine,  I  got  up  to  have  a  look 
around  me,  and  never  did  I  feel  more  interested  in 
any  scene,  unless  I  may  except  the  sight  of  Banner 
Cove  under  similar  circumstances.     On  both  occa- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  225 

sions  the  deep  verdure  mingling  with  the  many 
shades  of  the  now  fading  beech,  with  the  grand  and 
wild  mountain  scenery  stretching  along  the  side  of 
the  Bay,  and  the  forest- covered  hills  overhanging 
us  to  the  south,  and,  above  all,  the  bright  beams 
of  a  fiery  and  storm-portending  sun,  going  down 
beyond  the  furthest  range  of  highlands  in  the  deep 
background,  leaving  broad  tracks  of  light  betwixt 
the  clouds  of  indigo  and  purple, — all  had  a  vivid 
and  strong  effect  upon  my  feelings,  and  greatly 
cheered  me.  Seeing  the  sunset  once  more,  for  it  is 
long  since  I  beheld  it,  my  soul  aspired  towards  the 
plains  of  light,  and  I  could  conceive  some  such  a 
portal  as  yon  bright  scene,  only  brighter,  brighter 
far,  and  cloudless,  opened  into  the  paradise  of  our 
God.  Thither  my  happy  spirit  bent  its  way  upon 
the  wings  of  hope,  faith  pointing  out  the  pathway 
to  the  golden  gate,  and  love  desiring  and  hastening 
on  the  soul  to  win  so  priceless  an  inheritance  among 
the  saints  in  light. 

"  Good  Friday,  April  18. — Since  writing  the 
above,  we  have  had  gales  and  furious  storms  in 
almost  constant  succession,  the  weather  being 
severely  cold,  with  a  considerable  fall  of  snow,  and 
with  drepo'y  hail-storms  and  sleet.  I  have  fre- 
quently lifted  my  head  from  my  pillow  to  look  out 
on  the  cold  and  cloudy  and  wintry  scenes  around 
tae.  My  bed-head  being  close  to  the  door,  by  just 
lifting  myself  up,  I  could  see  the  mountains  to  the 
south  of  us,  and  their  new  vesture  of  driven  snow 


226  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

The  first  sight  of  this,  the  fall  being  great  during 
tlie  night  of  the  15th,  was  very  full  of  pleasure  to 
me.  Dreary  and  desolate  as  was  the  scene,  I  could 
yet  feel  pleasure  in  the  grandeur  and  magnificence 
of  its  very  wildness.  The  aspect  of  nature  was  all 
around  changed ;  and  with  the  winds  howling 
around,  the  sea  roarino-  over  the  sand-bank  close 
by,  the  air  filled  everywhere  with  falling  snow,  and 
with  that  peculiar  sense  of  lonesome  isolation  which 
a  bleak  winter  scene  conjures  up  in  the  mind,  sug- 
gesting our  need  of  relative  and  social  connexions, — 
there  was  still  a  sense  of  the  sublime  truly  pleasur- 
able. 

"  To-day,  the  weather  having  abated  its  violence, 
I  availed  myself  of  the  afternoon  sunshine  to  get 
up  for  a  short  time.  I  could  scarcely  support 
myself,  and  had  to  take  freely  of  spirits  to  enable 
me  to  keep  up  a  little  while ;  but  the  enjoyment  of 
looking  around  me  is  so  great,  that  I  mind  not  a 
little  trouble  to  accomplish  it.  Poor  John  [Bad- 
cock],  alas !  cannot  do  this  much,  and  is  decidedly 
getting  worse  than  myself,  the  disease  making 
more  progress  with  him  than  with  me ;  yet  we  fare 
m  all  respects  alike,  and  share  the  same  comforts, 
and  use  the  same  means,  and  certainly  I  was  much 
Averse  than  he  at  the  beginning.  His  legs  are 
swollen  and  discolored,  his  gums  get  very  bad,  his 
loss  of  blood  is  frequent,  and  the  prostration  of  his 
strength  is  daily  more  marked.  I  am  truly 
aifected  by  observing  this;  but  I  keep  him  from 


SICKNKSS  AND  FAMINE.  227 

knowing  my  suspicions,  and  as  I  treat  my  own  case 
very  lightly,  and,  by  the  grace  of  God,  am  ever 
able  to  keep  a  cheerful  countenance,  I  succeed  in 
preserving  his  mind  from  the  alarm  and  despond- 
ency so  peculiar  to  this  disease,  and  which  so 
greatly  adds  to  its  distress.  Poor  and  weak 
though  we  are,  our  abode  is  a  very  Bethel  to  our 
souls,  and  God  we  feel  and  know  is  here.  John 
often  smiles  through  a  tear  that  flow^s  from  a  heart 
full  of  a  sense  of  God's  love  ;  and  though  both  of 
us  subject  to  many  infirmities,  and  sensible  of  our 
numberless  shortcomings,  yet  moments  so  speed 
by,  many  of  them  winged  with  aspirations  after 
God,  that  Ave  ourselves  forget  all  our  bodily  com- 
plaints, until  reminded  of  them  by  exhaustion. 

"  As  the  weather  gets  colder,  we  naturally  enough 
wish  to  hasten  the  period  of  the  vessel's  arrival 
that  shall  bring  us  succour,  and  carry  us  hence. 

"  During  the  day,  whilst  storms  are  raging 
especially,  we  are  under  the  necessity  of  shutting 
out  the  light,  in  order  to  exclude  the  cold ;  and  at 
other  times  our  place  is  filled  with  the  smoke  which 
is  blown  in  from  the  stove  close  to  us  in  the  stern- 
sheets.  At  low  water  too,  now  tliat  we  are  in 
Cook's  River,  our  boat  heels  over  so  that  John  is 
at  one  time  deep  down  on  the  Ice-side,  at  another 
time  I ;  and  then  one  of  us  gets  all  or  the  most 
part  of  the  water  accumulating  iVom  condensation 
on  the  iron  roof,  which  drij)s  on  our  head  and 
back,   or   snturntos    our    pillows    and    bed-clothes, 


228  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

should  they  also  unhappily  gravitate  leeward. 
We,  however,  look  these  inconveniences  well  in 
the  face,  and  by  patience  disarm  them  of  half 
their  unpleasantness, — a  good  lesson  acquired  in 
the  school  of  experience,  with  the  grace  of  God 
for  our  helper  and  teacher. 

"  To-day  the  first  of  our  supphes,  tapioca,  which 
we  have  depended  much  upon,  having  had  of  it 
for  our  breakfast  daily,  has  failed  us ;  our  only 
remaining  substitute  being  rice.  Somewhat  more 
serious  than  this,  is  the  fact,  that  after  having 
exhausted  our  store  of  brandy  and  of  rum,  we 
are  now  drawing  upon  our  last  bottle  of  gin ; 
and  as  it  grows  less  and  less,  whilst  we  consume 
it  by  another  and  another  draught,  necessary 
to  stimulate  our  debilitated  bodies  and  recover 
us  from  our  severe  fits  of  exhaustion,  we  look 
at  each  other  and  say,  '  The  sooner  gone,  the 
sooner  the  ship  must  come ! '  This  sentiment 
the  Captain  also  gave  utterance  to  to-day,  and 
indeed  it  is  our  general  feeling,  belief,  and  hope, 
that  God  will  permit  our  means  to  fail  us,  and 
just  then  his  mercy  will  shine  forth  in  the  op- 
portune and  gracious  deliverance  which  he  shall 
send  us. 

"  The  Captain,  who  happily  continues  well, 
but  unaccompanied  by  Mr  Maidment,  who  is  suffer- 
inof  from  cold,  came  and  held  service  with  us. 
The  sermon  he  read  was  out  of  a  volume  by 
the  Rev.  J.  Harington  Evans,  on  the  seventeenth 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMliNE.  229 

chapter  of  John.  It  was  a  delightful  and  most  ap- 
propriate discourse, — the  subject  being,  '  Finished 
Work.' 

"  Monday,  April  21. — To-day  the  boat  was 
moored  in-shore,  close  to  the  bank,  so  that  we 
can  step  from  the  deck  on  the  land ;  and  I  felt 
greatly  tempted  to  try  once  more  to  put  my  foot 
ashore.  I  therefore  got  up,  and  with  the  assist- 
ance of  Bryant,  stepped  on  the  green  turf.  But 
to  my  surprise  I  found  that  I  had  no  power 
over  my  limbs,  and  the  attempt  at  progression 
was  almost  ludicrous ;  for  my  legs  went  sideways 
rather  than  forward,  and  I  must  have  fallen  had 
I  not  been  supported  by  Bryant.  Although  I 
have  frequent  distressing  bodily  prostration,  with 
great  languor,  I  praise  God  that  only  on  one 
occasion  has  my  mind  greatly  participated.  Some- 
times so  powerless  as  to  be  unable  for  reading  or 
much  thought,  I  have  felt  this  state  to  be  merely 
passive,  and  without  any  positive  gloom  or  real 
depression  of  spirits. 

"  This  night  we  have  a  pretty  hard  frost,  which 
covers  the  roof  above  my  head  with  its  hoary 
frost-work.  It  pinches  me  much,  my  back  espe- 
cially, clothes  being  insufficient  to  keep  me  warm. 

"  Thursday,  May  1. — The  violence  and  in- 
clemency of  a  Fuegian  winter  have  been  now  for 
some  time  felt  by  us.  We  have  had  the  snow 
fixlling  day  by  day,  covering  all  around  with  its 
white   mantle,    and    wijh   this   a   daily   succession 


230  SIOKNKSS  AND  FAMINE. 

of  fearful  storms  of  wind.  In  our  present  position 
we  are  more  than  ever  exposed  to  the  raging 
of  the  blast  and  the  penetrating  of  the  cold, 
as  to  the  westward  we  are  open  to  the  plains 
or  valleys  Avhich  stretch  beneath  the  mountains. 
At  times  wo  greatly  feel  the  cold,  being  obhged 
to  remain  shut  up  in  the  darkness  of  our  berth 
by  day  as  well  as  by  night,  save  when  relieved 
by  the  light  of  our  candle.  Occasionally,  however, 
we  get  an  interval  of  moderate  weather,  and  the 
effect  of  it  is  very  cheering  to  us  all.  Our  provisions 
are  fast  consuming  away :  our  '  sick  diet,'  in 
particular,  is  likely  to  come  to  an  end  still  more 
speedily ;  the  preserved  meat  and  pork  being 
now  nearly  finished,  and  our  stock  of  spirits, 
having  had  no  wine,  having  been  for  some  days 
exhausted.  We  have  tried  in  vain  to  catch  fish 
in  the  net  and  with  a  line.  None  are  to  be 
seen,  and  although  ducks  and  wild  fowl  are  not 
scarce  around  us,  we  have  no  means  of  getting  at 
them. 

"  On  Friday  the  Captain  and  Mr  Maidment 
succeeded  in  catching  a  fox,  or  rather  in  killing 
him.  He  had  frequently  paid  them  visits  during 
the  night,  entering  the  cavern  whilst  they  were 
in  bed  in  the  boat,  and  making  free  with  whatever 
came  to  hand.  He  had  carried  off  pieces  of  pork, 
shoes,  and  even  books  ;  and  to  the  great  mortifica- 
tion of  Mr  Maidment,  his  Bible  was  among  the  latter, 
which  being  bound  in  morocco,  was  doubtless  a 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 


231 


booty  to  the  hungry  beast.  They  therefore  laid 
a  bait  for  him,  a  piece  of  pork  attached  by  a  cord 
to  the  trigger  of  a  loaded  gun,  so  placed  that  ^dien 
he  took  the  bait  he  should  fire  the  gun.  He  fired 
it  ofi"  once,  but  escaped  unhurt ;  twice  the  cap  went 
off,  but  the  powder  did  not  take  fire.  At  last,  he 
received  the  whole  discharge  in  his  breast.  In  his 
stomach  Avere  found  feathers,  fish,  and  mice.  He 
was  a  fine  animal,  with  a  splendid  brush.  Albeit 
the  odium  attached  to  a  fox,  our  party  on  shore 
have  already  so  far  overcome  any  such  fastidious- 
ness, that  this  morning  they  made  a  hearty  break- 
fiist  of  his  '  pluck.'  His  quarters  are  cut  up  and 
kept  in  reserve.  This  is  not  the  first  extraordin- 
ary bonne  houclie  our  worthy  caterer  has  put  upon 
the  spit,  or  made  into  soup  for  us.  The  penguin 
and  shag,  and  the  equally  fishy-tasted  duck,  have 
all  contributed  their  quota.  The  penguin  was 
caught  on  shore,  without  attempting  to  get  away, 
more  than  by  a  backward  movement,  as  Mr 
jMaidment  laid  hold  on  him.  The  shag  was  asleep 
on  a  fallen  tree,  lying  on  the  beach,  so  that  Mr  M. 
caught  it  also  by  hand. 

"  The  most  formidable  drawback  of  all,  is  the 
dampness  of  the  boat.  Althougli  I  have  my 
Mackintosh  spread  over  my  bed,  the  water  from 
the  roof  lodges  in  pools  upon  it,  and  has  at  length 
saturated  the  counterpane  under  it.  The  side  of 
our  beds,  and  all  our  clothes  there,  as  well  as  at 
the  head  and  the  foot,  are  all  wringing  wet.     One 


232  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

iiiglit  I  felt  a  deadly  chill  from  the  damp,  from  which 
for  hours  I  could  get  no  relief,  and  having  failed 
of  our  supply  of  spirits,  I  had  a  great  pain  the 
whole  night,  which  continued  very  severe  the  two 
following  days.  Whilst  it  lasted  I  was  almost 
tempted  to  think  I  could  not  recover;  the  pro- 
stration of  death  seemed  upon  me. 

"  Wednesday/,  May  7. — To-day  we  have  been 
just  eight  months  from  the  time  of  our  leaving 
Liverpool.  The  weather  is  now  confirmed  in  its 
winterly  severity,  and  we  have  had  pretty  hard 
frosts,  sufficient  to  freeze  large  portions  of  the  river 
in  which  we  are  lying,  and  which  drifts  past  us  at 
each  ebb  tide. 

"  This  evening,  having  Pearce  in  addition  to  our 
company,  I  felt  in  prayer  much  softening  and  ten- 
derness of  heart,  with  longing  after  the  perfect 
love  of  God.  Pearce  read  Mr  Wesley's  sermon  on 
Repentance  in  Believers,  and  its  plain,  simple  ex- 
hortations did  me  much  good.  Since  then  I  have 
been  able  to  exercise  such  a  measure  of  faith  in 
Christ  as  I  had  not  felt  before,  and  to  realise  bless- 
ings far  higher.  I  could  say  that  I  did — I  can  say 
that  I  do  love  God  with  a  love  I  had  no  conception  of, 
with  a  love  that  actuates  every  faculty  of  my  whole 
soul ;  and  the  love  of  God  in  Christ  I  feel  beyond 
all  expression.  This  much  I  venture  in  much  weak- 
ness to  write ;  whether  I  shall  bo  able  to  add  much 
more  to  this  journal  is  known  only  to  God.  But 
this  I  may  say,  I  have  not  had  at  any  time  a  dis- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 


233 


quieting  thouglit,  or  a  mistrusting  fear  as  to  the 
result.  I  have  felt,  Come  life,  come  death,  God's 
•will  would  be  my  choice.  I  have  not  had  any 
doubts  as  to  a  vessel  coming  to  our  help,  I  have, 
for  the  most  part,  believed  God  would  restore  me 
to  health,  and  1  have  thought,  in  accordance  with 
a  singular  impression  made  on  my  mind,  that  my 
course  Avould  be  directed  back  again  to  my  native 
country.  This  I  have  believed — yet  I  cannot  say 
that  God  luill  not  take  me  hence,  by  taking  me 
sooner  than  I  expected  to  heaven  and  glory.  His 
will  be  done — his  blessed  will  be  done  :  I  have  no 
longer  a  choice,  when  I  know  his  holy  vrill.  My 
poor  frail  body  is  now  very  attenuated,  and  my 
sinking,  depressed  feelings  are  very  great  at  times. 
But  my  mind  scarcely  feels  depression,  and  cer- 
tainly no  depression  except  in  mourning  over  my 
unfaithfulness  and  shortcomings. 

"  Should  anything  prevent  my  ever  adding  to 
this,  let  all  my  beloved  ones  at  home  rest  assured 
that  I  was  happy,  beyond  all  expression,  the  night 
I  wrote  these  line's,  and  would  not  have  changed 
situations  Avith  any  man  living.  Let  them  also  be 
assured,  that  my  hopes  were  full  and  blooming  with 
immortality  ;  tliat  heaven,  and  love,  and  Christ, 
which  mean  one  and  the  same  divine  thing,  were  in 
my  heart ;  that  the  hope  of  glory,  the  hope  laid  up 
for  me  in  heaven,  filled  my  whole  heart  with  joy 
and  gladness,  and  that  to  me  to  live  is  Christ,  to 
die  is  gain.     I  am  in  a  strait  betwixt  two,  to  abide 


234  SICKNliiS  AND  FAMINE. 

in  the  body,  or  to  depart  and  be  with  Christ,  which 
is  far  better.  Let  them  know  that  I  loved  them, 
and  prayed ybr  every  one  of  them.  God  bless  them 
all. 

"  Tuesday,  May  20. — I  am  now,  as  it  were, 
suspended  by  a  slender  thread  betwixt  life  and 
death.  Three  davs  following  I  have  had  attacks, 
which  seemed  to  threaten  a  termination  in  dissolu- 
tion. But  God  is  with  me.  I  am  happy  in  the 
love  of  Christ.  I  could  not  choose,  were  it  left  to 
me,  whether  to  die  or  to  live.  I  feel  the  conviction 
in  my  mind  still  strong  that  I  shall  recover  ;  but  I 
am  got  so  near  to  heaven,  by  the  fiiUing  into  ruin- 
ous decay  of  this  earthly  house  of  my  tabernacle, 
that  another  shake,  and  there  seems  reason  to  ex- 
pect that  my  soul  will  be  numbered  with  the 
departed  who  are  gone  to  glory.  This  I  can  say, 
that  no  other  thought  or  desire  has  crossed  my 
mind,  as  a  reason  for  the  prolongation  of  my 
earthly  existence,  but  that  it  might  thereby  please 
my  Lord  to  make  me  an  instrument  of  winning 
souls  to  him, 

"  Friday,  May  23. — To-day  I  have  felt  much 
sinking,  and  have  felt  a  desire  to  depart  and  bo 
with  Christ.  Last  night  I  felt  much  for  the  situation 
of  my  companions,  and  prayed  to  God  with  great 
fervor  in  their  behalf,  entreating  the  Lord  to  send 
relief  to  them,  and  if  it  were  his  will,  that  I  should 
see  that  succour  come,  and  then,  if  it  pleased  him, 
be  taken  hence.     I  excluded  myself  from  any  par- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  2o5 

licipalion  of  benefit  to  be  derived  from  a  vessel's 
coming,  lest  I  might  seem  to  fall  into  impatience, 
or  displciy  aught  else  than  absolute  resignation  to 
God's  holy  will  concerning  myself.  But  I  did 
feel  I  might  intercede  for  others,  and  I  sought 
God's  blessing  on  their  bodies  and  souls.  This 
evening  I  have  been  so  allured  by  the  love  of 
Jesus,  that  I  have  not  been  able  to  refrain  from 
asking  the  Lord  to  permit  me  to  come  to  himself. 
Nothing  on  earth  could  hold  back  my  wishes  from 
transporting  me  at  once  into  his  presence.  I  felt  it 
could  be  no  sin  to  desire  thus  eagerly  for  heaven. 
Its  hght,  its  atmosphere,  its  peace,  its  joys,  yea,  and 
its  holiness,  were  around  my  soul,  and  earth  to  my 
eyes  seemed  a  dreary  place.  But  am  I  ready  to 
go  ?  0  yes ;  Jesus  has  made  me  ready.  I  could 
not  be  more  ready  than  he  can  make  me,  were  I 
to  live  a  century  longer.  His  blood,  his  precious 
blood,  I  bear  upon  my  heart;  his  righteousness 
declared  of  God,  1  hold  for  my  title-deed. 

"  Tuesday,  ay  27. — To-day  I  have  perceived 
new  symptoms,  which  shew  the  inroads  of  the 
disease  upon  my  system,  and  strongly  point  out  a 
fatal  termination.  Can  I  be  in  any  way  disap- 
pointed at  this,  instead  of  a  life  of  much  service 
and  glory  to  God?  No,  not  for  a  moment;  for 
God's  glory  can  only  be  enhanced  by  fulfilling  the 
counsels  of  his  own  will ;  and  to  suffer  his  blessed 
will,  as  much  glorifies  my  God  as  to  do  it.  I  am 
not  disappointed ;  rather  do  I  rejoice  greatly,  that 


236  SICKNESS  AND  FAJMINE. 

now  it  seems  manifestly  the  design  of  God  to  take 
me  hence.  I  have  time  after  time  felt  an  inex- 
pressible desire  to  be  with  Christ,  and  to-day  I 
have  been  ravished  with  his  love.  Should  this 
then  be  the  will  of  God,  then,  my  beloved  ones, 
weep  not  for  me.  Let  no  mourning  thought  possess 
your  hearts,  nor  sigh  of  sadness  once  escape  your 
lips.  Say  rejoicingly,  How  good  was  the  Lord! 
how  greatly  Avas  he  blessed  of  God,  and  he  is 
gone  to  be  with  Jesus !  There  you,  my  beloved 
ones, — you,  my  mother,  you,  my  sisters,  may  all 
of  you — oh  yes,  you  will  shortly  meet  me, — will 
you  not  ?-  The  love  of  Christ  fills  my  heart ;  but 
with  this  love  which  loves  him  supremely,  I  love 
you  as  I  never  did  before.  But  heaven  is  at  hand. 
It  is  nigh  to  my  soul.  It  is  my  home.  I  shall 
look  for  you  there.  There  we  shall  meet  to  part 
no  more.  Its  glories  invite  me.  Its  hohness,  its 
purity,  makes  me  desire  it,  where  I  shall  no  more 
feel  the  curse  of  sin,  nor  see  that  loathsome  thing, 
corruption.  I  hail  the  glorious  change.  My  soul 
rejoices  in  the  Lord,  and  I  would  not  exchange  my 
dying  hopes,  surrounded  as  I  now  am  with  all 
earthly  discomforts,  for  the  greatest  luxuries  and 
all  the  blandishments  the  world  could  set  before 
me ;  nay,  nor  could  it  stop  one  minute  my  onward 
flight  to  God,  were  the  whole  realm  of  nature,  and 
every  monarch  with  his  crown,  inviting  me  to  lin- 
ger for  a  while,  and  taste  of  honor,  power,  and 
earthly  good.     No,  oh  no!     All  that  is  vanity  and 


SICKNESS  AND  FAJVIINE.  237 

a  delusion.  There  is  no  other  happiness  but  in 
knowing  God,  and  Jesus  Christ  whom  he  has  sent ; 
in  knowing  him  as  our  merciful,  gracious,  long-suf- 
fering God;  forgiving  iniquity,  transgression,  and 
sin  :  and  Jesus  Christ  as — no  words  can  say  what 
Jesus  Christ  is  when  you  know  him.  This  is  the 
white  stone,  inscribed  with  a  new  name,  which  no 
one  knows  but  he  to  whom  it  is  given.  0  Jesus, 
blessed  Mediator  and  Intercessor !  into  thy  hands  I 
commit  my  beloved  ones.  Do  thou  effectually  prevail 
in  the  behalf  of  each,  so  that  all  may  receive  thy 
Holy  Spirit  and  the  gift  of  eternal  life,  to  thy  own 
and  the  Father's  everlasting  glory,  world  without 
end.  Amen."  [Then  follow  affectionate  messages 
to  various  friends  by  name.] 

"  Thursday,  June  12. — Ah !  I  am  happy  day 
and  night,  hour  by  hour.  Asleep  or  awake,  I  am 
happy  beyond  the  poor  compass  of  language  to 
tell.  My  joys  are  with  him  whose  delights  have 
always  been  with  the  sons  of  men  ;  and  my  heart 
and  spirit  are  in  heaven  with  the  blessed.  I  have 
felt  how  holy  is  that  company ;  I  have  felt  how 
pure  are  their  affections,  and  I  have  washed  me  in 
the  blood  of  the  Lamb,  and  asked  my  Lord  for  the 
white  garment,  that  I,  too,  may  mingle  with  the 
blaze  of  day,  and  be  amongst  them  one  of  the  sons 
of  light. 

"  Wc  have  long  been  without  animal  food  of  any 
kind.  Our  diet  consists  of  oatmeal  and  pease,  with 
rice  occasiomiUy  ;  but  even  of  this  we  have  only  a 


238  SICKNESS  AKD  FAIIINE. 

stock  sufficient  to  last  out  the  present  month,  or  a 
very  short  period  beyond  this.  The  weather  is 
very  severe,  with  a  deep  fall  of  snow  on  the 
ground.  But  this  is  not  the  worst  feature  of  our 
case.  All  hands  are  now  sadly  affected.  Captain 
Gardiner,  a  miracle  of  constitutional  vigor,  has 
suffered  the  least,  and  if  I  listened  to  his  own 
words  he  is  still  none  the  worse ;  but  his  counte- 
nance bespeaks  the  contrary.  Would  it  Avere  not 
so !  Mr  Maidment,  likewise,  has  sustained  the 
shock  of  our  circumstances  very  well,  but  yet  great 
debility  is  noAv  manifesting  itself.  All  the  rest 
have  decided  symptoms  of  scurvy,  and  have  some- 
thino;  to  do  to  stand  under  the  burden  of  the  duties 
devolving  upon  them ;  but  their  perseverance,  and 
willingness,  and  patience,  deserve  the  highest 
praise,  whilst  it  elicits  from  our  hearts  a  feeling 
sense  of  our  obligations  to  them,  and  a  regret  to 
put  th'em  to  such  a  severe  trial.  The  Lord  reward 
and  bless  them !  Indeed,  his  blessing  is  upon 
them ;  and  the  Spirit  of  grace  is  deepening  his 
work  in  their  souls.  Much  more  could  I  add,  but 
my  fingers  are  aching  with  cold,  and  I  must  Avrap 
them  up  in  the  clothes.  But  my  heart  is  warm — 
warm  with  praise,  thanksgiving,  and  love  to  God 
my  Father  and  to  God  my  Redeemer." 

Up  to  this  period  Mr  Williams's  Journal  had 
been  carefully  kept ;  and,  looking  at  its  neat  and 
legible  pages ;  knowing,  too,  the  distress  and  dis- 
comfort in  the  midst  of  which  its  latter  poi  tions 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMI>'E.  239 

■were  written,  wo  cannot  but  regard  it  as  a  very 
affecting  document.  It  is  quite  evident  that  he 
had  acquired  a  fond  attachment  to  this  personal 
narrative,  and  that  the  hours  passed  Hghtlj  which 
were  spent  in  its  hfe-hke  society.  Not  only  was  it 
a  survivor  from  brighter  davs,  and  a  remembrance 
of  the  hopes  and  aspirations  of  the  outward  voyage, 
but  it  was  becoming  too  manifest  that  his  Burslem 
friends  might  have  no  other  messenger  to  tell  how 
it  fared  with  him  in  the  last  stage  of  the  pilgrim- 
age. Eventually,  therefore,  we  believe  that  it  was 
chiefly  for  their  sakes  that,  by  the  light  of  a  candle, 
and  with  "  aching  fingers,"  as  he  lay  in  his  cheer- 
less cabin,"  he  continued  to  record  the  incidents 
and  impressions  of  these  lonely  days. 

We  are  now  arrived  at  the  last  entry.  It  is 
dated,  "  Cook's  River,  Sunday  night,  or  possibly 
Monday  morning,  June  21  or  22"- — the  shortest 
day  of  those  regions,  when  the  night  lasts  sixteen 
hours.  It  tells  how  Pearce  had  come  to  sit  up 
with  the  invalids,  but  had  been  persuaded  to  retire 
to  rest ;  and  it  speaks  of  Badcock  as  dying.  It 
contains  expressions  which  would  almost  indicate 
that  the  mind  of  the  writer  was  beginning  to  wan- 
der ;  but,  even  amidst  confused  perceptions,  it 
shews  that  his  faith  in  God  was  still  clear  and 
unclouded.     The  last  words  are: — 

'•'  When  I  left  Burslem  on  the  mission,  it  was 
with  a  secret  confidence  I  should  see  the  salvation 
of  God.     Oh,  my  soul  hath  beheld  it  I     '  But  the 


240  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

greatest  trouble,'  some  would  say,  '  is  not  over  j-et. 
You  have  but  a  week's  provision  more,  even  at  the 
rate  you  are  now  living  at,  and  no  certain  expecta- 
tion of  a  vessel's  coming  in  that  time  ! '  Yes,  this 
is  so ;  but  I  have  a  certain  and  sure  expectation 
of  deliverance  in  that  time.  To-day  is  June  22 ; 
for  1  believe  it  is  far  advanced  in  the  morning. 
"VVe  shall  see.  He  that  believeth  shall  never  be 
confounded. 

"  Here  I  rest  my  hope. 
"  The  Lord's  will  be  done." 

Captain  Gardiner  and  Mr  Maidraent  continued 
to  lodge  at  the  cavern,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  mouth  of  Cook's  River,  where  the  boat 
containing  the  rest  of  the  party  was  moored.  And 
though  the  distance  was  not  great,  so  exhausted 
and  Aveakened  were  they  all,  that  they  could  not 
maintain  a  daily  communication.  But  on  Saturday, 
June  28,  Captain  Gardiner  visited  the  Speedwell ; 
and  in  his  own  brief  joui'nal  he  writes : — 

"  Found  Mr  Williams  and  Badcock  to-day  very 
ill.  Mr  Williams  considers  the  latter  beyond  the 
hope  of  recovery.  He  is  most  patient,  and  leaning 
only  upon  his  God.  Mr  Williams  is  certainly 
weaker  than  he  has  been  during  his  long  illness, 
and  to-day  spoke  very  incoherently.  He  was 
praying  aloud  when  I  reached  the  boat,  for  himself 
and  his  dying  companion,  committing  themselves  to 
God,  and  rejoicing  in  his  faithfulness  and  truth.  I 
have  kept  no  record  of  the  expressions  Avhich  have 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  241 

fallen  from  him  dm^ing  my  various  visits  to  Cook's 
River ;  but  the  invariable  tenor  of  them  has  been 
entire  resignation  to  the  will  of  God,  joy  and  peace 
in  behoving,  and  a  firm  trust  in  his  Redeemer,  with 
the  full  assurance  that  all  had  and  still  would  work 
together  for  the  advancement  of  his  eternal  inte- 
rests. On  one  occasion,  '  that  each  day's  expe- 
rience had  proved  a  blessing,  that  he  felt  that  no 
one  of  his  trials  (and  he  had  many)  could  have  been 
spared,  that  he  had  no  will  of  his  own,  but  left  all 
in  the  hand  of  his  heavenly  Father,  and  that  he 
was  willing  to  depart  in  any  way  that  the  Lord 
should  see  fit.'  To-day  he  said,  that  '  he  only  called 
upon  God,  on  him  alone  he  leaned,  and  that  he  was 
all  to  him.' " 

At  eleven  o'clock  on  that  same  evening,  John 
Badcock  died.  He  requested  Mr  Williams  to  join 
him  in  singing  a  hymn,  and  repeated  the  202d  of 
Wesley's  Collection,  beginning — 

Arise,  my  soul,  arise. 

Shake  o!T  tliy  guilty  fears; 
The  bleeding  sr.ciifice 
In  my  behalf  appears. 
Before  the  throne  my  Surety  stands ; 
My  name  is  written  on  his  hands. 

He  sang  it  through  with  a  loud  voice,  and  a  few 
minutes  afterwards  expired. 

Early  in  June  the  net,  which  had  occasionally 
procured  a  few  fishes,  v.  as  carried  away  b}^  the 
floating  ice;  and  on  the  4ih  nf  .Inly  Captain  Gar- 

<i 


242  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

(liner  mentions,  as  all  the  provisions  remaining  in 
the  cavern,  "  half  a  duck,  about  a  pound  of  salt 
pork,  the  same  of  damaged  tea,  a  pint  of  rice,  two 
cakes  of  chocolate,  and  four  pints  of  pease,  to  which 
I  may  add  six  mice."  From  this  time  forward,  to 
the  end  of  their  tragic  history,  they  had  little  other 
subsistence  besides  mussels  and  limpets,  and  a 
species  of  gelatinous  seaweed. 

On  Tuesday,  July  22,  Captain  Gardiner  writes — 
"  For  six  days  we  have  had  no  intercourse  with 
Cook's  lliver,  on  account  of  the  weather.  I  was 
there  this  afternoon,  and  John  Bryant,  to  our 
great  surprise,  came  over  to  us,  being  anxious  to 
know  how  we  were.  Poor  fellow !  it  is  too  great 
an  exertion  for  him,  although  he  says  he  feels  bet- 
ter. Mr  AVilliams  is  wonderfully  supported,  both 
in  body  and  mind.  The  Lord  has  been  very  gra- 
cious to  him.  He  is  exceedingly  weak,  but  has 
little  pain,  and  says  that  he  feels  even  better  than 
he  has  done,  although  now  reduced  to  subsist  on 
mussels,  which,  to  my  great  surprise,  he  is  able  to 
digest." 

On  Saturday,  August  23,  Joseph  Erwin,  the  car- 
penter, died ;  and  the  following  Tuesday  terminated 
the  sufferings  of  another  of  the  boatmen,  .John 
Bryant.  Captain  Gardiner  was  now  confined  to 
his  bed,  and  the  fatigue  of  burying  his  two  com- 
panions so  exhausted  Mr  Maidment,  that  he  never 
rallied.  On  the  6th  of  September,  Captain  Gar- 
diner Avrote  a  note,  which  never  reached  its  dosti- 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  243 

nation,  and  which  was  afterwards  found  defaced  by 
the  weather : — 

"  My  dear  Me  Williams, — The  Lord  has  seen 
fit  to  call  home  another  of  our  little  company. 
Our  dear  departed  brother  left  the  boat  on  Tuesday 
afternoon  (Sept.  2),  and  has  not  since  returned. 
Doubtless  he  is  in  the  presence  of  his  Redeemer, 
whom  he  served  faithfully.  Yet  a  little  while,  and 
though  ....  the  Almighty  to  sing  the  praises 
....  throne.  I  neither  hunger  nor  thirst,  though 
five  days  without  food. — Your  affectionate  brother 
in  ...  . 

"  Allen  F.  Gardiner." 

Meanwhile,  it  will  be  asked,  what  steps  were 
taken  elsewhere  for  the  relief  of  the  famished  exiles? 
As  early  as  January,  the  Secretary  of  the  Society 
had  commenced  his  inquiries  for  a  vessel  to  convey 
additional  stores  to  the  Mission;  but  it  was  uni- 
formly answered,  that  no  vessel  would  imperil  her 
insurance  for  so  small  a  freight ;  and  it  was  not  till 
the  6th  of  June  that  a  vessel,  advertised  for  April 
21,  actually  set  sail,  carrying  six  months'  supplies 
by  way  of  the  Falkland  Islands.  Nor  was  any 
consternation  created  by  the  delay ;  for,  naturally 
enough,  the  office-bearers  hoped  that  fish  and  game 
might  be  procured  as  abundantly  as  Captain  Gar- 
diner seemed  to  expect ;  and  then  there  was  the 
hope  that  the   Captain   might  have  establislicd  a 


244  SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE. 

comniiuiication  witli  bis  friends  at  Montevideo  or 
East  Falkland.  However,  when  October  arrived, 
and  the  expedition  had  been  gone  for  more  than  a 
year  without  any  tidings  returning,  the  worst  fore- 
bodings began  to  be  felt,  and  an  application  was 
made  to  the  Admiralty  to  assist  the  Society  in  the 
effort  to  reach  its  agents.  H.M.S.  Dido  was  then 
sailing  for  the  Pacific,  and  instructions  were  in- 
stantly forwarded  to  her  commander.  Captain  Mors- 
head,  to  touch,  if  possible,  at  Picton  Island,  and 
inquire  after  the  missionaries. 

Simultaneously  with  this  movement  in  England, 
Samuel  Lafone,  Esq.,  of  Montevideo,  had  commis- 
sioned a  fast- sailing  American  pilot-boat  to  proceed 
to  Picton  Island,  and  render  any  assistance  which 
the  mission  party  might  require.  After  a  run  of 
four  weeks,  Captain  Smyley  reached  Banner  Cove 
on  the  21st  of  October ;  but  finding  it  painted  on 
the  rocks,  "  Gone  to  Spaniard  Harbour,"  he  pro- 
ceeded thither  and  arrived  on  the  following  day. 
He  soon  found  a  boat  on  the  beach,  and  inside  of  it 
lay  one  person  dead.  There  was  a  large  scar  on 
his  head,  and  another  on  his  neck,  and  a  mattrass 
was  thrown  over  him.  The  name  "  Pearce  "  was 
found  on  his  frock,  and  there  can  be  little  doubt 
that  he  was  the  last  survivor  of  the  party.  The 
Indians,  whose  ntikcd  footprints  were  observed  on 
the  strand,  had  no  doubt  found  him  still  ahve  and 
had  murdered  him  ;  and  books,  papers,  medicine, — 
everything  which  was  of  no  value  to  the  savages, — 


SICKNESS  AND  FAMINE.  245 

were  found  scattered  on  the  deck  or  strewn  along 
the  beach.  On  the  shore  was  found  a  body  com- 
pletely washed  to  pieces,  which  must  have  been  that 
of  Mr  Williams,  as  his  three  companions  had  been 
already  buried.  Captain  Smyley  had  barely  time 
to  bury  it,  when  a  violent  gale  arose,  and  drove 
him  from  his  anchorage  and  out  to  sea.  His  little 
vessel  being  laden  with  the  crew  of  a  castaway 
Danish  barque,  Captain  Smyley  could  prosecute 
the  search  no  farther,  but  was  forced  to  return  to 
Montevideo.  The  report  of  this  humane  and 
right-hearted  man  concludes  with  the  following 
testimony : — 

"  I  have  never  found  in  my  life  such  Christian 
fortitude,  such  patience,  and  bearings  in  my  hfe  as 
in  these  poor  unfortunate  men.  They  have  never 
murmured  even.  They  seemed  resigned.  And  Mr 
Williams  says,  even  in  his  worst  distress,  he  would 
not  swap  his  situation  for,  or  with,  any  man  in  life. 
He  is  happy  beyond  expression. 

"  They  speak  in  their  Journals  of  going  to  tlic 
Falklands,  but  they  found  their  boats  not  fit,  and 
in  fact  they  waited  until  all  their  provisions  were 
gone,  and  they  were  taken  with  the  scurvy  so  bad, 
that  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  go.  They  had 
no  rest ;  they  were  drove  from  place  to  place  by 
the  Indians,  always  in  dread  and  fear.  Add  to 
these,  the  stormy,  dreary,  long  nights,  with  almost 
perpetual  ice  and  snow;  and  cooped  up  in  a  small 
boat,  so  Laden  that  there  was  scarce  room  to  move. 


246  SICKNESS  AND  FAIUNE. 

■without  food,  and  with  that  terrible  disease  the 
scurvy  ;  and  you  can  judge  their  situation  joarif/^/." 
Unapprised  of  Captain  Smyley's  discovery,  Cap- 
tain Morshead  in  the  Dido  reached  these  dangerous 
seas  about  the  middle  of  January  1852,  and  prose- 
cuted the  search  with  the  skill  and  energy  of  a 
British  sailor,  and  with  the  solicitude  of  a  Christian 
friend.  He  reached  Spaniard  Harbour  on  the 
evening  of  January  21,  and  immediately  sent  Lieu- 
tenant Pigott  and  Mr  Roberts  on  shore.  They 
found  the  bodies  of  Captain  Gardiner  and  ]\lr 
Maidment,  and  returned  to  the  ship  with  a  variety 
of  books  and  papers.  Next  morning,  amidst  threat- 
ening weather.  Captain  Morshead  landed.  Mr 
Maidment's  body  lay  in  the  cavern  where  he  had 
so  often  spent  the  night,  and  in  which  the  stores 
rescued  from  the  Pioneer  were  kept.  Outside  on 
the  rocks  was  painted,  by  way  of  direction  to  any 
visitor,  a  hand,  and  under  it,  "  Psalm  Ixii.  5-8." 
Captain  Gardiner's  body  was  lying  beside  the 
wreck  of  the  Pioneer.  It  seemed  that  he  had  left 
his  berth,  but  being  too  weak  to  climb  into  it  again, 
he  had  died  at  the  side  of  the  boat.  The  remains 
were  collected  and  buried ;  the  funeral  service  was 
read  ;  an  inscription  was  placed  on  the  rocks  ;  three 
volleys  of  musketry  were  fired ;  the  ship's  colours 
were  struck  half-mast  high ;  and  having  fulfilled 
her  mournful  commission,  the  Dido  went  on  her 
way. 


CHAPTER    X. 

(L.OiUiUSioiL 


With  offerings  of  devotion, 

Ships  from  the  isles  shall  meet, 
To  pour  the  wealth  of  ocean 

In  tribute  at  his  feet. 

For  he  shall  have  domioion 

O'er  river,  sea,  and  shore. 
Far  as  the  eagle's  pinion. 

Or  dove's  light  wing  can  soar. 

Psalm  Isxii.  S,  10. — James  Montgomert/. 


When  we  look  abroad  on  a  world  that  is  rent  with  woo,  and  l>iu- 
dc-ned  with  the  curse,  how  gladly  ought  we  to  turn  to  the  prophetic 
picture  of  tlie  same  world,  clothed  with  the  verdure  of  righteousue.ss 
and  peace,  love  and  joy !  When  we  behold  the  wretched  multi- 
tudes everywhere  ground  down  by  oppression,  how  cheering  to  think 
of  the  happy  period  when  kings  shall  be  the  nursing-fathers  and 
queens  the  nursing-mothers  of  their  people — when  justice  will  every- 
where be  seen  holding  up  her  even  scales — and  the  genius  of  charity 
opening,  on  the  most  barbarous  shores,  new  founts  of  blessing  that 
shall  Jiever  more  be  sealed  ! — Dr  Dvff. 


We  never  hear  of  a  great  catastrophe  without  see- 
ing, or  fancying  that  we  see,  how  it  might  have 
been  averted.  And  it  is  a  rehef  from  the  sharp- 
ness of  sorrow  to  be  allowed  to  criticise  the  conduct 
of  others,  and  to  point  out  the  simple  precautions 
which  ought  to  have  been  adopted.  In  concluding 
the  foregoing  narrative,  many  will  feel  that  this 
entire  mission  v/as  sadly  mismanaged.  They  Avill 
condemn  the  initial  blunder  which  induced  seven 
men,  divided  betwixt  two  little  boats,  to  venture 
into  seas  so  wild,  and  among  savages  so  treacher- 
ous ;  and  in  such  an  expedition  they  will  say  that  a 
strong  ship,  ably  manned,  was  the  true  economy. 
They  will  lament  the  over-sanguine  calculation 
which,  for  an  imprisonment  of  uncertain  duration, 
provided  supplies  so  very  limited ;  and  they  will 
allege  that  it  was  not  prudent  generalship,  but 
a  foolhardy  trust  in  the  chapter  of  accidents, 
which,  for  its  commissariat,  drew  on  the  uacaught 
tish  and  fowl  of  Fuegia,  and  the  unpurchased  beef 


250  CONCLUSION. 

of  Montevideo.  They  will  lift  up  their  hands  at 
the  successive  fatalities  which  left  the  ammunition 
on  ship-board,  which  lost  the  fishing-nets,  and 
which,  the  very  first  day  tliiey  were  used,  let  the 
dingies  go  adrift.  They  will  point  out  expedients 
which  might  from  time  to  time  have  been  tried 
with  advantage ;  and,  with  the  precedent  of  long 
voyages  in  whale-boats  and  wherries,  they  will 
wonder  why  the  adventurers  did  not  seek  to  escape 
in  their  launches  to  some  more  friendly  shore. 
And,  in  the  fair  distribution  of  reproof,  they  will 
blame  the  directors  who  allowed  their  agents  to 
depart  so  scantily  provided,  and  who  permitted 
nine  months  instead  of  six  to  elapse  betwixt  the 
sailing  of  the  Ocean  Queen  and  the  despatch  of  ad- 
ditional supphes. 

We  do  not  deprecate  discussion,  and  we  are 
assured  that  the  community  eventually  gains  much 
from  the  freedom  with  which  the  proceedings  of 
associations  and  official  personages  are  reviewed 
by  the  organs  of  public  opinion.  And  it  is  only 
candid  to  add  that  we  have  felt  in  full  force  some 
of  the  regrets  which  have  been  expressed  in  regard 
to  this  Patao-onian  Mission.  But  it  ouo-ht  to  be  re- 
membered  that  the  scanty  equipment  of  the  expedi- 
tion was  necessitated  by  the  want  of  funds.  None 
knew  better  than  Captain  Gardiner  the  desirable- 
ness of  a  large  sloop  or  brig;  but  as  this  was 
utterly  unattainable,  he  resolved  to  do  his  best 
with  such  launches  as  the   Society  could   aiFord. 


CONCLUSION.  251 

And  altliougli  an  ample  supply  of  provisions  would 
have  been  a  great  security,  the  boats  could  scarcely 
carry  more  ;  and  believing  that  in  the  directors  at 
home,  in  correspondents  at  Montevideo,  and  in 
the  produce  of  the  islands,  he  had  three  strings  to 
his  bow,  the  leader  of  the  enterprise  again  yielded 
to  his  too  chivalrous  anxiety  to  spare  the  funds  of  a 
Society  whose  treasury  was  low,  and  whose  friends 
were  few.  On  the  other  hand,  to  account  for  the 
disasters  of  Banner  Cove  and  Lennox  Harbour,  we 
would  need  to  exchange  places  with  the  devoted 
band,  and  imagine  ourselves  an  inexperienced  crew 
of  seven  persons,  two  of  them  mere  landsmen, 
divided  betwixt  two  vessels,  contending  with  cease- 
less tempests,  drenched  in  rain,  pierced  with  cold, 
disheartened  by  hunger  and  disease,  and  only  left 
the  wretched  choice  betwixt  a  coast  swarming  with 
cannibals,  and  "  desolate  places,"  the  domain  of 
frost  and  hunger.  And  to  account  for  the  delay  in 
forwarding  supplies,  we  would  need  to  exchange 
places  with  the  office-bearers,  and  repeat  the  despe- 
rate search  for  a  conveyance  made  by  men  whose 
freight  was  no  inducement  to  ships  of  any  value, 
and  who  had  not  the  means  wherewith  to  charter 
a  vessel  of  their  own. 

But  from  all  disputes  about  secondary  causes, 
and  from  vain  speculations  about  contingencies 
which  cannot  now  be  reahsed,  the  Christian  will 
raise  his  thoughts  to  that  "  determinate  counsel 
and  foreknowledge   of  God  "  which  ordained  the 


252  CONCLUSION. 

result,  and  which  overlooked  none  of  the  inter- 
vening incidents  ;  and,  in  a  world  which  owes  every- 
thing to  the  vicarious  principle  on  which  it  is 
administered,  he  will  try  to  ascertain  the  lessons 
taught  by  the  sufferings  and  the  self-sacrifice  of 
these  missionary-martyrs. 

To  every  devout  reader  there  must  be  confirma- 
tion and  encouragement  in  such  a  narrative  as 
the  one  now  concluded.  Seldom  have  we  met  with 
a  more  striking  example  of  "  comfort  in  the  wil- 
derness;" and,  after  perusing  the  experience  of 
Mr  Williams,  no  Christian  need  fear  that  his  cir- 
cam  stances  will  be  ever  so  forlorn,  but  that  the 
Heavenly  Comforter  can  still  inspire  him  with 
a  "  joy  unspeakable  and  full  of  glory."  Illumed 
by  an  immortal  prospect,  the  dreary  cabin  becomes 
"  none  other  than  the  gate  of  heaven ;  "  and, 
cheered  by  a  celestial  Visitor,  the  long  hours  of 
an  Antarctic  night  are  never  counted.  AVithout 
a  crust  of  bread,  the  spirit  is  regaled  with  "  food 
such  as  angels  eat ;  "  and,  in  a  disease  depressing 
beyond  most  others,  hope  and  exultation  are  the 
predominant  emotions.  And  far  from  repenting 
their  own  rashness, — farther  still  from  "  charging 
God  foohshly," — they  congratulate  their  lot,  on 
])eing  counted  worthy  to  suffer  for  Christ's  sake ; 
and  when,  in  their  little  hospital,  the  first  death 
takes  place,  the  good  soldier  asks  his  feeble  com- 
rade to  join  him  in  a  hymn. 

Nor  is  it  a  small  matter  to  find  that  the  Saviom- 


t'oxcLusiox.  253 

has  still  disciples  who  are  willing  not  only  to  suffer, 
but  to  die  for  his  sake.  Last  century  produced  no 
martyrs :  but  there  is  again  faith  in  the  earth ; 
and  the  convicts  of  Tuscany,  the  thousand  exiles  of 
Madeira,  the  slaughtered  hundreds  of  Madagascar, 
"  the  martyr  of  Erromanga,"  and  the  proto- 
evangelists  of  Fuegia,  all  shew  that  there  are 
many  to  whom  Christ  is  so  precious,  that  they 
are  prepared  to  follow  him  to  prison  and  to  death. 

But,  besides  their  lesson  of  self-devotion,  have 
not  these  good  confessors  left  to  the  Church  a 
legacy  of  duty  ?  Have  not  their  writings,  so 
remarkably  preserved,  come  back  from  the  ends 
of  the  earth,  as  a  cry  to  go  over  and  help  these  poor 
degraded  Indians? 

With  the  precedents  of  New  Zealand  and  the 
South  Sea  Isles,  there  is  nothing  in  the  treachery, 
the  barbarism,  nor  even  in  the  cannibahsm  of  these 
Araucanians,  to  make  a  Christian  philanthropist 
despair ;  whilst,  in  their  position  as  a  possible 
inlet  to  the  vast  Indian  populations  of  the  main- 
land, there  is  a  powerful  inducement  to  early  and 
untiring  effort. 

Nor  should  we  omit  a  subordinate  and  selfish 
reason  for  attempting  to  evangelise  these  islanders 
and  their  Patagonian  neighbours.  Within  the  last 
five  years  the  Straits  of  Magellan  and  the  ocean 
liighway  round  Cape  Horn  have  been  traversed 
by  an  unprecedented  amount  of  shipping  ;  and,  as 
long  as  this  continues  the  main  route  to  San  Fran- 


254  CONCLUSION, 

CISCO,  the  traffic  through  these  seas  is  likely  to  in- 
crease. In  such  a  dano-erous  navio-ation  we  need 
not  say  what  casualties  are  likely  to  occur;  but 
woe  betide  the  ship's  company  which  is  thrown  into 
the  hands  of  these  savages !  Last  winter  the  ship 
Porcupine,  of  Liverpool,  was  passing  through  the 
Straits  of  Magellan  on  her  way  to  California,  when 
she  grounded.  i!^ext  mornino-  she  was  surrounded 
by  numerous  canoes,  full  of  natives,  carrying  light- 
ed pine-branches,  who  endeavoured  to  set  the  shi]? 
on  fire  ;  and  it  was  not  till  after  a  desperate  conflict, 
in  which  two  emigrants  were  killed  and  others 
severely  wounded,  that  the  assailants  were  re- 
pulsed, and  the  disabled  vessel  Avas  floated  oiF  and 
worked  back  to  the  Falklands.  And  it  is  only  five 
or  six  years  ago  when  the  captain  and  crew  of  the 
brig  Avon  were  murdered  by  the  same  barbarians, 
and  two  English  gentlemen  whom  they  had  in- 
veigled ashore  Avere  carried  off  and  put  to  death, 
and  their  bodies,  it  is  believed,  were  devoured.* 
Similar  casualties  are  too  certain  to  recur ;  and 
even  although  the  o-overnments  of  Eno-land  and 
America  should  send  war-steamers  to  the  station, 
they  cannot  be  ubiquitous;  and,  on  the  coercive  sys- 
tem, nothing  short  of  an  extirpation  of  the  wretched 
natives  can  secure  the  castaway  from  the  knife  of 

*  The  dangeris  of  a  detention  on  these  coasts  are  vividly  described 
in  a  rough  hut  romantic  book  published  in  America  during  the  iire- 
sent  year :  "The  Captive  in  F.itagnnia;  or  Life  aiiiong  the  Giants. 
I3y  Benj-unin  I'i-anhlin  15  •uni.\"     H  -ami  :  GmuM  and  Lincoln. 


COKCLUSIOX.  255 

tlie  cannibal.  How  much  better — how  much  more 
worthy  of  a  Christian  country,  and  how  much 
cheaper — to  reclaim  and  civilise  them  !  This  the 
missionary,  with  God's  blessing,  alone  can  accom- 
phsh  ;  but  the  same  agency  which,  all  through  the 
Southern  Archipelago,  has  secui'ed  for  the  merchant 
and  whaler  depots  of  provisions  and  refitting  sta- 
tions, and  the  assistance  of  clever  mechanics,  where 
formerly  the  war-club  was  his  only  welcome, — this 
agency  may  soon  stud  with  gardens  and  farms  and 
industrious  villages  these  inhospitable  shores.  The 
church-going  bell  may  awaken  these  silent  forests  ; 
and,  round  its  cheerful  hearth  and  kind  teachers, 
the  Sunday-school  may  assemble  the  now  joyless 
children  of  Navarin  Island.  The  mariner  may  run 
his  battered  ship  into  Lennox  Harbour,  and  leave 
her  to  the  care  of  Fuegian  caulkers  and  carpenters ; 
and  after  rambling  through  the  streets  of  a  thriv- 
ing seaport  town,  he  may  turn  aside  to  read  the 
lepers  in  the  Gardiner  Institution,  or  may  step  in 
to  the  week-evening  service  in  the  Richard  Williams 
Chapel.  When  that  day  arrives,  a  grateful  popu- 
lation will  survey  Cook's  River  and  Pioneer  Cove, 
if  not  Avith  emotions  as  sacred  as  those  with  which 
our  Old-World  pilgrims  visit  St  Paul's  Bay  in 
Malta,  and  the  Grotto  in  Patmos,  at  least  with 
feelings  as  tender  as  the  Christian  Briton  has  often 
confessed  on  the  rocks  of  Lindisfarn,  and  among 
the  ruins  of  lona. 


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